Thank You Silence/ Maanila Devi, Almora, Kumaon

These days – I wish they could just pass away fast. I could not finish my thesis, or concentrate well on my office work. And, I was feeling ugly and waste. I would rather think than talk, looking at various permutations and combinations to find out time to finish the pending tasks. In this ordeal, I would mostly blame ‘the time’ for being responsible for my such state. Time – where to dig it from. But the real problem was not the time but being lazy. And I deemed it as “probably the mind needs rest” just like the locomotive engine when exhausted; and started to plan a brief and quiet trip, just alone.

Maanila Sunrise

Not much time have passed since Rupin Pass trek which I did with handful of friends some 3 months back. However I still can not say if I enjoyed it or not. Probably it had no feeling – only hard feelings like a stone – which could be one reason I never attempted to write Rupin’s account and just uploaded few pics at my flickr account.

But today, I must leave if I have to encash upon two consecutive holidays lined up as part of closing ceremony of 19th Common Wealth Games in Delhi.

With my backpack, I reached office, amidst the grazing eyes of office staff nibbling at me weirdly and commenting at my back. But isn’t that the same I think about them and pity – for they never know the real life; being so lost in this prison system. And my wait started for clock to hit 6 pm though I have been busy throughout the day to prepare and release an ad for the day after.

Marchula - Near Ramnagar

Sachin Tiwari – a fellow colleague in our marketing group proposed to drop me at Anand Vihar. An offer too tempting to resist. Going with him will save me time, and will be really easy and fun. Thanks to him, I reached on time at the bus terminus. If he wouldn’t have dropped me, I would have missed my bus to Ramnagar. He has been a driving force behind writing this trip’s account too, asking me...pushing me to write. Though it’s hard to say – if he loves to read my blog or is it his wife who likes to read things about hills as he quoted some times.

Between Dotiyal to Maanila Devi

Well whatever – this blog is for both of them – the hilli-billies.

Ramagar at 4 am was unusually cold or was it the journey discomfort that sucked all my energy. What a crowded bus it was! Travelled 250 kms sitting on the tool-box just next to the bus door. The conductor Sharma Ji – as Sardar Ji, the driver, quoted his name often times did not even gave me the ticket leaving me to wonder – who has been lucky really? – Me or him.

Me, because I got the bus otherwise my linking bus from Ramnagar to Maanila would have left. Him, because he had an extra income of Rs. 180 multiplied by 2 i.e. me and a kid who was traveling alone, and was made to share single seat with Shrama Ji.

Silver or Sand – Sharma made his silver quite well and for me it’s the sand.

Arun Bhadola, in Joyful Mood

I missed the first bus due to the bully crowd that possessed the bus to Naagchula-khal from everywhere.

I jumped into another bus – another KMOU (Kumoan Motor Operators & Users) – private bus affiliated to state transport authority. Small bus with unclean windows, dim lights, unorganized seating arrangement, with people glued to their seats especially the women while their men did the shopping like fruits, sweetmeats etc on their home-coming.

I was seated at the end of the bus and adjacent to the last bench of the bus that had young women seating in row chatting-up, crazy. Thick smoke came from the front – old men puffing bidis – a normal sight for anyone who frequently travels to hilly regions. So this finding was no amusement I decided to step down. Till this time nobody knew when the bus will take-off. 6:30 a.m came the voice just when I was negotiating the price of apples with the Muslim oldman vendor who had no time to look at me.

Rath Khal

I looked at my watch – 5:00 a.m – still one and half hour to go. I do not know when sleep overpowered me after we crossed Garjia temple barrack. I had choley-chai (snacks) at Marchula some 40kms from Ramnagar at 8:30 around, where the bus stopped. I murmured - not as good as they used be. 9:30 a.m and we are to reach Molley-khal that was another 18-20 kms and then another 12 kms to reach Dotiyal, the place where I have to get down.

Road, Rath-Khal Afterwards

I reached Dotiyal at 10:20 a.m. and instantly recognized Arun Bhadola – a known from our village area. The tall, young man in his early 30s, wearing half sweater waved at me, smiling, as if he has found some treasure inside a coal-mine. I was glad he kept his promise to be with me for this trip. And we two had chai-samosa, typically kumaouni style, topped with raita (curd) and chutney. Delicious, I said while Arun nodded in yes. We started walking towards Maanila Devi temple some 8 km neat stretch from Dotiyal with pine trees both sides.

Maanila Devi Temple (Talla)

We reached Rath-Khal after some 4 km of walk towards the Maanila Devi temple. Another stop and another round of tea and snacks. The air was invigorating, and refreshing with smell of pine. I stretched my lungs to fill the fragrance inside. I have always loved it. We continued to march further on the road with Himalayan view on our left but mostly hidden behind large tree trunks of pines and the silver-birches. It looked like a perfect country side – a nice road, no bus but sometimes few jeeps would pass us and no one’s walking along. Only the loud sound of Garhwali songs playing on the Max mobile handset of Arun in the bright afternoon sun shining high over our heads. A perfect sight, a sheer pleasure and no mental effort.

The Idol of Maanila Devi

We reached the temple at 2:30 pm walking at dead slow pace photographing, chatting and enjoying ourselves thoroughly. We paid our homage to the deity, sat inside the temple for few minutes and planned our comeback. Arun suggested taking jeep to Malla-Maanila – another Maanila Devi temple.

The cab was full and we decided to get down at Rath-Khal. We walked to the market down the road. Luckily the guy agreed to made us Chowmein that tasted really very salty and raw but we tucked it all in. Arun then purchased a quarter of Rum from here citing tiredness as reason. We started to walk towards again on the same road to pay our homage to Malla Maanila. The temple is situated on the ridge and the place was colder than I thought looking at the October sky.

While walking towards the temple, Arun narrated the story behind. Maanila, the Goddess, is the deity of the Salt region in district Almora of Kumaon, Uttarakhand from a long time.

Temple Premise of Talla Maanila

It is believed that Goddess used to talk to the priest of the temple. Then one day, the king of Garhwal, ordered his men to bring the deity to his court from where it is placed in Talla Manilla.

It is said that when King’s men came to take the Goddess; the Goddess raised an alarm to wake up the priest but priest and his family continued to sleep. The Goddess then played a trick with King’s men who came to fetch the idol that night. The weight of the idol of the Goddess became too heavy and King’s men could take the idol only till Malla Maanila.

Malla Maanila

By this time, the morning has broken and fearing that they will be caught; King’s men left the idol there and ran away. Since then the Goddess never spoke to the priest again despite retaining her original place. Another version of the story is extended. While King’s men had put the heavy idol of Maanila down to rest for a while at Malla Maanila, they could not lift it back despite doing their best efforts. Fearing that they would get caught as the sun begins to rise; they tried to cut the finger to take it with them as a proof to king of their loyalty. They did it with great difficulty but by that time they saw the priest and the villagers chasing them, so they ran away with the finger of the Goddess.

Maanilla Devi, the deity, got upset with the people of the region for not protecting her and never again she spoke to the priest or anybody.

Idol of the Goddess at Malla Maanila

Well that was the story, and whatever was the story; leave that to history books or to the talking heads. Just go and visit the place to experience a change. The perfect tranquility and bliss, and don’t forget to thank the silence!

Itinerary (by Roadways Bus): Friday Night: Delhi–Ramnagar (250 kms. approx 6-7 hours). Road is really poor between Kashipur and Ramnagar.

Saturday: Reach Doti-yal (80 kms approx 3:30-4 hrs.) by 10 a.m. Stay at Forest Rest House or book KMVN in advance. The KMVN caretaker was missing throughout the day when we went. According to sources he has tie-up with this private hotel manager who belongs to a localite of the area and helps push the tourists to this private hotel to earn his commissions.

KMVN, locked and uncared

Private hotel option is just one option available who normally charges Rs. 400-500 per night. The hotel offers Himalayan view though rooms are dingy and very basic. We got the room for Rs. 300 on negotiations but then they charged extra 100 bucks on meals. Forest Rest House is perfect option in terms of cost (Rs. 100 a room for night) and location (at the hill-top on a ridge).

Forest Rest House

Sunday: Back to Delhi or further ahead some place with me.
© Himanshu