In My Hometown / Deeba, the deity of Garhwal

Rejoicing the peaceful walk of Maanila Devi; me and Arun maintained the pace of walking. It was quite a morning, fresh and misty, with mild wind blowing through the pines and enough for my senses to demand more. Arun suggested that we should go to Sarainkhet, while I had Deeba temple in the mind. And in my mind I started to fight this feeling - how do we cover both? Extending leave for an extra day might upset the boss.

Shot in Jayaraj (after Kanpathia)

And I prepared myself mentally to take this challenge. If required, I'll not hesistate to resign - I said to myself in feeble voice but with stone over heart.

We reached Dotiyal - the place we started our journey from. Biting over the Samosa and piping hot tea in my hand, the pace of struggle ended, with decision - to do both - come whatever may come. We packed a full bread and 4 Samosa to start out journey. I was quite much in mood to walk. Arun knew the place well. He has been here before, thrice.

We started to walk towards Kanpathia, a place that offers spectacular views of Himalayan ranges, mostly chatting up and listening to the songs stored on Arun's mobile, the next 5 kms. The pleasure was worth upsetting boss or losing the job even. And the weird smile appeared on my face. Kanpathia is another place after Ukhimath, where I would love to settle down for rest of my life.

A bend enroute Kanpathiya

It has Himalayan face, wide open valley, very few people visible and a mobile tower too. All that I want. We sipped our second tea here, Arun chatting up with locales and me looking around, thinking, clicking, wondering...

We resumed walking. Next destination is Jayaraj some 2 kms from Kanpathia.

The Old man who discussed Politics & Concerns

Here a known of Arun is building a resort - for don't know what! The sun was up and full by this time. I saw villagers drying the fresh pale-yellow chillies over their rooftops... a sight spicy enough to be clicked by the camera. Another cup of tea and critical reviews about Uttarakhand goverment started to come out. I presume it was due to my image that resembled a news correspondent with my camera hanging from my neck right over my chest.

Towards Sarainkhet

The questions from two elders mostly circled around the damage in the region due to cloudbursts and the record-breaking rains that the State had received this monsoon. Giant cracks on the roads, massive land-slides and century old houses that turned to dust - their watching the rains wash away - almost everything. Sentiments sometimes turn voilent and one of the old men started to put blame on us for not reporting it to news channels, or atleast not reporting about everything that has happened in the region.

Oldman working (Sarainkhet)

I could not clarify about who we are and what we were not. We paid for our tea and marched ahead. After walking some 2 more kilometers, we were not sure what else to talk about - natural calamities and the damage it did. All I knew that Centre has accepted to give Rs. 500 Cr. relief package to Pokhriyal-led government.

Sarainkhet

Horn blew - and a voice came from behind, and we boarded the bus to Sarinkhet which is some 18-20 kms. The path was beautiful, it moved on a snail trail through the forest road. Later the valley widened and colourful cholai fields were in the sight. I smelled the air deep and said atlast Sarainkhet. We didn't spend much time in Sarainkhet. It is the last village of Almora's Salt district in Kumaon region - a small place with 3-side closed view.

Uffrainkahl (kashmiri uncle in the pic)

And we decided to move on to next destination of the bus called Uffrainkhal. Uffrainkhal is the place from where Garhwal starts after Sarainkhet - the Kumaon border. It is even smaller than Sarainkhet with handful of houses and a temple. The bus will stop here for the day. It is around 4 p.m and before sun sets we planned to do our survey of the place. We walked from here towards the road that leads to Baijro, which is some 30 kms from Uffarainkahl.

But the bus service has been stopped due to badly worn out roads. And suddenly appeared the sad face of the old man we met in Jayaraj earlier. I said to myself - How much right he was? and regretted for not understanding his sentiments well. And Arun started to play songs on his mobile again. Pointing towards a rock on our left, he said lets climb it and see the next side of it. He is right. There was a road too on the other side that goes to a place called Binsar Mahadev - an ancient Shiva temple, famous all over Garhwal.

Valley View from Uffrainkhal (road goes to Binsar)

And we started to take stroll on the road chatting up, listening to the songs, looking at the sun going down slowly and breathing the mellow breeze filled with fragrance of pines, deodar and silver birch mixed with cool mist through our lungs. It is cold here, I said to Arun, pulling up the zip of my jacket upto my neck. Walking after some 6-7kms, we decided to return back but only after a round of tea. By 7 p.m we are back to the place where we started from. Kashmiri Uncle gave us shelter and the fresh cooked food for the night.

For the first time I was amazed to find a pumpkin so tasty that I ate the platefull of it plain rice, appraising it again and again. And Arun said, "We should have brought Old Monk quarter with us to make it enjoyable". And bus driver, conductor, Kashmiri uncle - they all laughed. By now the dog's barking stopped as if giving us this hint to stop gossiping and sleep. And I came out of the Kashimiri uncle's shed to look at the stars - there were so many - and I smiled in my mind.

How happy I was? Next morning, we stated early and begin to walk along the road. We knew that the bus will come after sometime. It was colder but walking made it pleasurable. In between we took short-cuts, and in no time we have covered some 5-6 kms. And then came the bus. We got down at Dotiyal. I wanted to walk down from Kanpathiya to Dotiyal road. Walking somehow kept me going and enjoying clearing my head.

Uffrainkhal (early morning)

Another round of tea at Dotiyal and we boarded the bus to Marchula. The plan is to visit Diva temple, in Divakhal. And we both decided to take bath in the cold water of Ramganga under the bright noon sun. The white water flowing looked like cystal pieces on the blue waves of sea. It can not be explained.

Marchula

Wiping my body I asked Arun, when do we reach Dhumakot?

He said, we must hurry up to catch the 2 p.m bus and then we reach there by 6 p.m.

Dhumakot is completely a estranged place or it seemed to me. It is getting dark by now but Arun had known the place quite well. We got the small dingy room for 200 bucks. We ate and retired to sleep early after a biref walk just to survey the place a bit. Next day early morning, at 5:30 we boarded our bus to reach Divakhal. We reached there in no time, just 15kms from Dhumakot, the place is - love at first sight - for me.

Jadaukhand

By 6 A.M we started walking towards the temple. Though I was fearing that we should let the sun come out first to make it safe for duo. I have heard from my dad many times that the jungle area is Bear-infested. The old lady, from the priest's family on the road-head confirmed the same when she said "Don't go now, let the sun be out and have some others to come with you to the temple, it's unsafe due to the high possibility of the bears in the jungle".

Dhumakot

Arun rejected the voice of the old lady and said "we are going to the temple, and our faith will protect us, so have no fear and come along". And I was wondering whom should I believe. So we started to walk. Not even a single ray is out and we two in this jungle, is it safe? I asked Arun. He took out mobile out of his pocket and started to play songs, and said now no animal will come near to us. I again wondered - to compliement him or to lable his as sheer stupid.

I said nothing, just maintained the pace alongwith him.

Divakhal

The sun soon started to appear. And I was relaxed. The path lead us through the dense forest, a small trail with wild grass and rough hard stones over it. Infact the whole region was such - full of wilderness. I was happy to be there - a silence I never observed before, a deserted place that was far away from the maddening crowd and, a life i have never lived before - pure spiritual bliss just like a sage in my soul.

We reached Diva temple around 8:30 A.M after walking some 3.5-4kms though slowly but nevertheless with any stop. My amusement doubled as soon as we reach the temple. It was magnificient. It offered 360 degree view, with Himalaya facing North or the face of temple. Spectacular views, grand highlands and majestic Himalaya in the sight - it is like best of both worlds. I thanked God, and offered our homage to the deity - Diva, by lighting the incense stick and through praying.

Diva temple

Today, my wish to be here is fulfilled, I said to myself. This is something which I have wanted to for a long time. We sat there at the temple for sometime without uttering any word, and it is there suddenly i memorised the song by Narendra Negi that has lines... Diva jani j0t, Diva jasi jot. The reference was in different context but something worth remembering and something that reminds you that your culture existed long before you came into this world.

With tear in my eyes, I felt like being one with The Supreme - though not a new feeling but not the same too - and I relalised how much I have missed my hometown, all these years.

Itinerary:

Delhi-Ramnagar-Dhumakot Distance: (320 km approx; 9 hrs in Roadways Bus; fare Rs. 180 till Ramnagar; Rs. 65 to Dhumakot)

Dhumakot-Divakhal: 15 kms

Divakhal / Deebakhal to Diva temple: 5kms on foot trek; return same way to Delhi or go some place ahead. © Himanshu Dutt, 2010.