The Divine Yumanotri Experience/ In the Voidness

So often I have wondered - who am I? The one I am or the one I want to be. The one I am is materialistic and the one I want to be is a self-less. And there is a gap like exists everywhere. Sometimes big and at times looking small and you feel just close to becoming what you want to be. Self-less and self-contained – so what if at least for a while. And I started to plan a refuge out of this void-ness. I prefer calling it void-ness for my own reasons. Void because it is not contentment, void because it is temporary and void because it is unnatural. And that is how my quest led me to Yumanotri.

My plan is ready. Friday is Deepawali, a Saturday off and then Sunday will give me 3 days to visit Yumnotri. Arun will wait for me at Dehradun railway station on Friday early morning. I asked Saurabh for his take about the trip. I was not sure he’ll be able to come since its deepawali and being only son of his parents he might have to be stay back. My parents never have objected to my going to hills at any point of time. I can recall in 2006 I was in Gangotri on Deepawali which was quite an experience – to see the snow flakes showering over the devotees during the Arti in the temple. This time too I am hoping an experience that would last for a lifetime.

Saurabh surprised me when he said he’ll be coming along with me, and we left straight from our office on Thursday evening, taking metro service to ISBT, to catch bus to Dehrdun. We both have idea about the rush a day before Deepawali but seeing long queues and very few buses, we anticipated that it is going to be tough. I asked the conductor of the bus full packed inside, for a place for two to which he clearly rejected, looking at few other people who were quite much looking for the same opportunity. And the bus roared and moved a little – as if leaving.

With the bus, we too moved and Saurabh pleaded – “we are going to Yumanotri for Deepawali” and need to reach Dehradun before 5 a.m. Both conductor–driver looked at our sacks on our backs, and after a brief silence, conductor said – I have just one seat left.

Next moment, we both were inside the bus – me sitting over the bonnet of the bus while Saurabh on that one seat. The bus moved and my conversations with the duo started in no time. Both were pahari and since we said we are going to Yumnotri, they accommodated us in the bus – maybe thinking that we have a long way to go or fearing that they must not interfere with our pilgrimage. Conductor boasted about his honesty and how helpful he has been to different people at various times citing examples. But soon after he picked up three more people from Ghaziabad border, and there was hardly any space left now inside the diver’s cabin. I knew he is en-cashing on the opportunity that Deepawali rush has brought in. But why this hypocrisy, that I could not understand.

Dehradun at 3:30 a.m was colder than I thought and we both had brought our sweaters out.

I quickly called Arun to know where he is. He was sleeping inside the ‘Barkot’ bus that we have to take. The bus will leave at 5:30 a.m. and looking at the time we have to spare we decided to take tea and buns at the road-side vendor just opposite to the old bus station. Then we strayed ourselves here and there. And at sharp 5:30 bus started for Barkot. We both have been on this route before till Naugaon from where Badkot goes uphill and to Purola goes straight.

Janakichatti

We reached Badkot around 10:40 and started to lookout for bus or jeep to Jaankichatti. Saurabh purchased some candles, and crackers to celebrate Deepawali at the temple in our own style. My worry was rather about reaching Jaankichatti. No bus. Jeep was already full, and I started again to ask the jeep owner. Finally, we managed to get one seat inside. While Arun and Saurabh adjusted themselves on the roof-top with fellow passengers, I scrambled myself inside.

Later from Hanumanchatti, I also joined my companions over the rooftop of the jeep. Thrilled.

After reaching Jaankichatti me and Saurabh filled our bellies quickly, while Arun was fasting. We then started to move slowly towards the temple, chit-chatting. It was bright sunny day of noon. The 5 km cemented path leading to Yumnotri temple is an easy climb and walk is more pleasant then we thought. Looking at the flowing Yamuna, I suggested taking a dip. Chilled, the water was, and we hurriedly took our 3 dips in the name of whatever Gods our mind could think of.

Saurabh & Arun Enjoying Dip in Yamuna

Indeed it was refreshing but it made us lazy. The feeling was like – my body wants to sleep and my mind instructing it to move on. I can feel my eyes closing every now and then. After all we have not slept last night and have been traveling for last 16 hours.

We reached the temple around 5:40 p.m – chatting, walking, clicking photographs but did not take any break to rest. I was astonished to see the kund – an average sized pool of hot water.

Actually the sulphur water, out from the, ground. We submerged ourselves into it and for half an hour we were relaxing in the name of hot water bath. Saurabh, started to complain of fainting feeling. I was feeling that too. But looking at Saurabh I got nervous. He put on his clothes back and spread himself over the steps of the kund. And then a miracle. Just when the temple bell started to ring, he got up and said, Sir! Let’s go. And the chanting of Arti started on the mic, in mild soothing tone.

Bhairav Temple Enroute

We were some 10 people sitting with our folded hands in the temple premise offering our homage to the Goddess Yamuna. I was more than delighted to have made it to the temple especially for the Deepawali. And then I found myself lost in the chants and prayers.

The Goddess Yamuna’s 3 idols – in black stone to the left; silver, in the middle; and the marble made, on the right appeared to have same aggressive looks as if denoting her relation to the God of Death - Yamaraj.

Here is the version of story narrated by one of the temple priests. Jai Muni, the sage, worshipped mother Yamuna like King Bhagirath did at Gangotri. However Bhagirath did it for penance of his ancestors, sage Jai Muni did it for penance of common people. Said Jai Muni, “those you come to your darshana and worship you O’Yamuna, may they their soul go to heaven, and not sent to hell by Yamaraj, narrated the priest with chanting of sloka.

Yamuna, requested to brother Yamaraj, to fulfill the sage’s will, to which Yama agreed. Since then it is believed those who pay homage to mother Yamuna, they become free from the fear of going to hell, and their soul goes to heaven.

Well, I wonder if I fear hell or is just hungry for heaven – because you never know where you go, once you are gone. Death embraces all. The philosophy whatever is behind the mythologies like these, the heaven is where everybody wants to go.

The superior heaven outshines the evil hell in our minds and that’s what belief is. These rituals have made us special, a proud Hindu or have labeled as superstitious society. The answer is as much debatable as the question itself.

By the now the Puja is over and we started to light the candles we brought with us and placed it all over the temple compound – near the Surya kund, as well. Surya kund is where the hot water spring is worshipped and potatoes, rice are cooked to be offered as Prasad.

The next day we came down after dip in the holy kund again and reached the village Kharsali, near Jaankichatti, to visit an ancient Shani temple. The temple architecture is very old. The priest’s son took us inside the 3 storey temple made of stones, craved through the big rock-sized stones. Later priest told us that even he doesn’t know when the temple dates back to. He also tried giving his association with Yamnotri temple priests who are ‘Uniyal’ – a garhwali Brahmin caste. We sipped upon hot piping tea at his place and then set off to come down back to the modern civilization.

While coming back, I requested one young fellow passenger in Jeep to send me the song he was plying loud on his mobile. That one song made easy for me to come down back to Delhi and in my mind thinking about the time spent in the voidness. I realised the voidness is golden. I hate Delhi like it is now.

Itinerary: Delhi-Yumanotri (Total Distance: 462 Kms.)

November 4th, 2010 THU: Bus from ISBT Kashmere Gate to Dehradun @ 7 P.M, Rs. 280 per seat from Uttarakhand Roadways – Hi-tech Bus Service.

5th, FRI: Reach Dehradun @ 3:30 A.M – Tea Break – Bus to Barkot @ 5:30 A.M. Reached Barkot around 11:30 A.M (via Damta, Naugaon, approx. 130 kilometers – Rs. 165 per seat from Uttarakhand Roadways). Boarded 12:10 p.m shared Jeep service from Barkot to Jaankichatti (approx. 65 km, Rs. 60 per seat). Jaankichatti at 3:00 p.m around. After a hearty meal and dip in icy cold water of holy Yumana at Jaankichatti reached Yumanotri around 5:20 p.m covering 5kms distance on-foot. Dip in the Holy Kund. Celebrated Deepawali in the temple premise.

6th, SAT: Got up early, took a long dip in holy kund (hot water), offered our Pooja and clicked pics. Back to Jaankichatti at 11 A.M around. Visited ancient Shani temple at Kharsali. Tea at priest’s house. Started to comeback by 1 P.M. Shared jeep to Barkot. Then bus to Naugaon. Halt.

7th, SUN: Took 6:00 A.M GMOU bus to Vikasnagar. Reached around 11:30 A.M. Bus to Dehradun ISBT. Reached around 1 P.M. Finally, bus to Delhi. Reached Delhi around midnight.

© Himanshu Dutt, 2010