The Thing That Was Not / The Chakrata Chapter

The problem that often surround me is whenever I have had a good trip in the Himalayas, I long for more; but whenever its a trip-in-disguise (whose chances are rare), I try to wipe it out immediately with yet another trip. But Barnala Taal, a small trek of 5 km from Barsu village in Uttarkashi district of Uttarakhand that I did in Feb '12 was rather a joyous trip by all means. Fairy snow, mighty peaks, a shy guide, children hurrying to catch up school morning prayer, and windy town of Pala, reminded me of the pictures that I often graze on the ground called 'internet'. In April, though, I took my office group to Jageshwar; it was not satisfying for me. You need like-minded fellow travellers and above all the ones who don't just travel to 'touch the place' but rather stay and 'absorb the place'. So, I started to plan. Binsar Mahadev in Pauri Garhwal region was the choice I zeroed in for a quick, weekend trip. The date was set and just when we were to leave - the things started to get all wrong. First with the cab driver (we sent him back for his unfriendly attitude and arrogance), then with bus at the ISBT (no bus to Ramnagar). At ISBT, we waited till 1 am in the morning for the bus to Ramnagar, that never came. And finally after some thinking, we decided to go to Dehradun. We just managed to get two seats at rear back of the bus, after racing along with the crowd. Me and Hukum - two of us in the bus to Dehradun, with no plan in mind. 

At 6 a.m we reached Dehradun. During our journey all through the night, i was thinking of Chakrata - it was long pending in my list. I added Ponta Shahib to it as well. I remember giving the same itinerary to Sanjay and Ranjan who were planning a trip for themselves. I called them and found that they have already started from Delhi as per their plans. With a promise to meet at Ponta Shahib; me and Hukum started looking for bus to Ponta. A Himachal Roadways bus was all set to go. It will drop us at Ponta in an hour from Dehradun which is some 56kms in distance. About 11 am we reached Gurudwara Ponta Shahib. We freshened up, paid our homage and ate langar heartly. About 5 pm arrived Sanjay and Ranjan in a car. We exchanged greetings!

Sanjay is my office colleague and Ranjan, I knew through him - we have met earlier as well when duo came to meet me at my place. Ranjan share the same passion and of same level as I had. It felt like I know Ranjan better than my own friend-cum-colleague, Sanjay - I never have seen him discussing hills or planning any travel. But he is certainly a hill enthusiast, perhaps, in the same league where me and Ranjan were. Just that he never showed or talked of it before. So our assumption about Sanjay beginning to prove wrong. The trip began soon after. They quickly had darshan. And we started our journey to Chakrata. 

Chakrata some 55 kms from here is a small hill town on a ridge with a small market. Only Indian nationals are allowed to enter into Chakrata. Its a cantonment area with special force's training ground. It offers sheer silence. And we started to look-out for a hotel. After a while we started to feel the cold shiver but by now we have had two rooms booked already. Sanjay and Ranjan brought their own stuff - frozen meat semi-cooked, beer cans in an ice-box, a lamp to cook over - which was a sheer delight to see. All that remained was - a tent - and we were ready to camp anyplace. A round of chilled beers, cooked meat snack and roti - good enough for us to keep hooked to conversations and laughs. Soon after we retired to bed. 

Morning we left early for Tiger Falls. But before that I stacked up some sweetmeat from the tea shop - so fresh it was. Tiger falls were some 18 kms through road but a 3kms trek from Chakrata. But we were a bunch of lazy bumps. In a while, we were marching down towards the falls. The roaring sound it has earned it this name. We were delighted to see the falls. Just the four of us - far away from the civilization of civil people who has nothing civil in them. We bathed here for about 2 hours - chilled water on a warm sun combo - soothed us. Sanjay, Ranjan, Hukum - gave all sort of shots to appear "in their best", and i was enjoying "the beer" making its way up in my mind. I rarely consume liquor. 

After, we were through with our adventure and island feel. I proposed to extend this trip by one more day and see Lakhamandal. Ranjan unarguably accepted but Sanjay protested with critics. It was adamant Sanjay versus three of us. Though he gave in but he had a sense of fear about his job. There was no one back-up, to look after his job and no seniors were around - so he was in a maze of confusion. The present tense was happy and nice with scenery, fun around it; while future tense was giving tensions. Anyway, he agreed. 

Lakamandal was some 70 kms from Chakrata and the road condition was awful. Nonetheless, the scenic beauty it offered were exemplary in comparison to returning route to Dehradun. We reached Lakhamandal around 6 pm. Quickly paid homage to the age-old temple of Lord Shiva. Lakhamandal is the place where conspiracy against Pandavas was hatched by Kauravas. The wax-palace was burnt with Pandavas inside, however they escaped. Shiva's temple stands here is even older than this story itself. I found solace here. 

Sanjay was red with anger, by now. He has his own mood swings. But he was right as well. No way we could make it to Mussorie or Vikasnagar now. The office tension bug was out. Usually, it happens during the night with each one of us - we find it hard to hold onto things during the nights because during the daytime, the sight-seeing keeps us busy. Probably, he was having time with himself - and troubling himself. I don't say he is right or wrong - but he was impatient to go to Delhi to attend his office work. Later, after collecting holy water from Yamuna, we made night halt at Damta. It was almost pitch dark on the highway but Damta was lightened with tourist movement going to Yumnotri. We got 2 rooms for 400 bucks and came out for dinner. Sanjay all this through didn't spoke much and not to me at least. 

Next day, he was a different man. Cool and clam, self-composed, enjoying tea and bread pakoras. I liked his this nature - switch on and switch off and then again on. He was in a great mood today - no fear. God saved us from his wrath. Ranjan whispered to me, he is like this only, and now we will take Mussorie route, the route which Sanjay was protesting last night. We giggled. 

The drive to Mussorie was like one of the great gigs - shining, swift and smooth. We reached Mussorie in a royal way. It was clearly us - in the lap of nature. Happy and blissful. 


(c) Himanshu

The Divine Yumanotri Experience/ In the Voidness

So often I have wondered - who am I? The one I am or the one I want to be. The one I am is materialistic and the one I want to be is a self-less. And there is a gap like exists everywhere. Sometimes big and at times looking small and you feel just close to becoming what you want to be. Self-less and self-contained – so what if at least for a while. And I started to plan a refuge out of this void-ness. I prefer calling it void-ness for my own reasons. Void because it is not contentment, void because it is temporary and void because it is unnatural. And that is how my quest led me to Yumanotri.

My plan is ready. Friday is Deepawali, a Saturday off and then Sunday will give me 3 days to visit Yumnotri. Arun will wait for me at Dehradun railway station on Friday early morning. I asked Saurabh for his take about the trip. I was not sure he’ll be able to come since its deepawali and being only son of his parents he might have to be stay back. My parents never have objected to my going to hills at any point of time. I can recall in 2006 I was in Gangotri on Deepawali which was quite an experience – to see the snow flakes showering over the devotees during the Arti in the temple. This time too I am hoping an experience that would last for a lifetime.

Saurabh surprised me when he said he’ll be coming along with me, and we left straight from our office on Thursday evening, taking metro service to ISBT, to catch bus to Dehrdun. We both have idea about the rush a day before Deepawali but seeing long queues and very few buses, we anticipated that it is going to be tough. I asked the conductor of the bus full packed inside, for a place for two to which he clearly rejected, looking at few other people who were quite much looking for the same opportunity. And the bus roared and moved a little – as if leaving.

With the bus, we too moved and Saurabh pleaded – “we are going to Yumanotri for Deepawali” and need to reach Dehradun before 5 a.m. Both conductor–driver looked at our sacks on our backs, and after a brief silence, conductor said – I have just one seat left.

Next moment, we both were inside the bus – me sitting over the bonnet of the bus while Saurabh on that one seat. The bus moved and my conversations with the duo started in no time. Both were pahari and since we said we are going to Yumnotri, they accommodated us in the bus – maybe thinking that we have a long way to go or fearing that they must not interfere with our pilgrimage. Conductor boasted about his honesty and how helpful he has been to different people at various times citing examples. But soon after he picked up three more people from Ghaziabad border, and there was hardly any space left now inside the diver’s cabin. I knew he is en-cashing on the opportunity that Deepawali rush has brought in. But why this hypocrisy, that I could not understand.

Dehradun at 3:30 a.m was colder than I thought and we both had brought our sweaters out.

I quickly called Arun to know where he is. He was sleeping inside the ‘Barkot’ bus that we have to take. The bus will leave at 5:30 a.m. and looking at the time we have to spare we decided to take tea and buns at the road-side vendor just opposite to the old bus station. Then we strayed ourselves here and there. And at sharp 5:30 bus started for Barkot. We both have been on this route before till Naugaon from where Badkot goes uphill and to Purola goes straight.

Janakichatti

We reached Badkot around 10:40 and started to lookout for bus or jeep to Jaankichatti. Saurabh purchased some candles, and crackers to celebrate Deepawali at the temple in our own style. My worry was rather about reaching Jaankichatti. No bus. Jeep was already full, and I started again to ask the jeep owner. Finally, we managed to get one seat inside. While Arun and Saurabh adjusted themselves on the roof-top with fellow passengers, I scrambled myself inside.

Later from Hanumanchatti, I also joined my companions over the rooftop of the jeep. Thrilled.

After reaching Jaankichatti me and Saurabh filled our bellies quickly, while Arun was fasting. We then started to move slowly towards the temple, chit-chatting. It was bright sunny day of noon. The 5 km cemented path leading to Yumnotri temple is an easy climb and walk is more pleasant then we thought. Looking at the flowing Yamuna, I suggested taking a dip. Chilled, the water was, and we hurriedly took our 3 dips in the name of whatever Gods our mind could think of.

Saurabh & Arun Enjoying Dip in Yamuna

Indeed it was refreshing but it made us lazy. The feeling was like – my body wants to sleep and my mind instructing it to move on. I can feel my eyes closing every now and then. After all we have not slept last night and have been traveling for last 16 hours.

We reached the temple around 5:40 p.m – chatting, walking, clicking photographs but did not take any break to rest. I was astonished to see the kund – an average sized pool of hot water.

Actually the sulphur water, out from the, ground. We submerged ourselves into it and for half an hour we were relaxing in the name of hot water bath. Saurabh, started to complain of fainting feeling. I was feeling that too. But looking at Saurabh I got nervous. He put on his clothes back and spread himself over the steps of the kund. And then a miracle. Just when the temple bell started to ring, he got up and said, Sir! Let’s go. And the chanting of Arti started on the mic, in mild soothing tone.

Bhairav Temple Enroute

We were some 10 people sitting with our folded hands in the temple premise offering our homage to the Goddess Yamuna. I was more than delighted to have made it to the temple especially for the Deepawali. And then I found myself lost in the chants and prayers.

The Goddess Yamuna’s 3 idols – in black stone to the left; silver, in the middle; and the marble made, on the right appeared to have same aggressive looks as if denoting her relation to the God of Death - Yamaraj.

Here is the version of story narrated by one of the temple priests. Jai Muni, the sage, worshipped mother Yamuna like King Bhagirath did at Gangotri. However Bhagirath did it for penance of his ancestors, sage Jai Muni did it for penance of common people. Said Jai Muni, “those you come to your darshana and worship you O’Yamuna, may they their soul go to heaven, and not sent to hell by Yamaraj, narrated the priest with chanting of sloka.

Yamuna, requested to brother Yamaraj, to fulfill the sage’s will, to which Yama agreed. Since then it is believed those who pay homage to mother Yamuna, they become free from the fear of going to hell, and their soul goes to heaven.

Well, I wonder if I fear hell or is just hungry for heaven – because you never know where you go, once you are gone. Death embraces all. The philosophy whatever is behind the mythologies like these, the heaven is where everybody wants to go.

The superior heaven outshines the evil hell in our minds and that’s what belief is. These rituals have made us special, a proud Hindu or have labeled as superstitious society. The answer is as much debatable as the question itself.

By the now the Puja is over and we started to light the candles we brought with us and placed it all over the temple compound – near the Surya kund, as well. Surya kund is where the hot water spring is worshipped and potatoes, rice are cooked to be offered as Prasad.

The next day we came down after dip in the holy kund again and reached the village Kharsali, near Jaankichatti, to visit an ancient Shani temple. The temple architecture is very old. The priest’s son took us inside the 3 storey temple made of stones, craved through the big rock-sized stones. Later priest told us that even he doesn’t know when the temple dates back to. He also tried giving his association with Yamnotri temple priests who are ‘Uniyal’ – a garhwali Brahmin caste. We sipped upon hot piping tea at his place and then set off to come down back to the modern civilization.

While coming back, I requested one young fellow passenger in Jeep to send me the song he was plying loud on his mobile. That one song made easy for me to come down back to Delhi and in my mind thinking about the time spent in the voidness. I realised the voidness is golden. I hate Delhi like it is now.

Itinerary: Delhi-Yumanotri (Total Distance: 462 Kms.)

November 4th, 2010 THU: Bus from ISBT Kashmere Gate to Dehradun @ 7 P.M, Rs. 280 per seat from Uttarakhand Roadways – Hi-tech Bus Service.

5th, FRI: Reach Dehradun @ 3:30 A.M – Tea Break – Bus to Barkot @ 5:30 A.M. Reached Barkot around 11:30 A.M (via Damta, Naugaon, approx. 130 kilometers – Rs. 165 per seat from Uttarakhand Roadways). Boarded 12:10 p.m shared Jeep service from Barkot to Jaankichatti (approx. 65 km, Rs. 60 per seat). Jaankichatti at 3:00 p.m around. After a hearty meal and dip in icy cold water of holy Yumana at Jaankichatti reached Yumanotri around 5:20 p.m covering 5kms distance on-foot. Dip in the Holy Kund. Celebrated Deepawali in the temple premise.

6th, SAT: Got up early, took a long dip in holy kund (hot water), offered our Pooja and clicked pics. Back to Jaankichatti at 11 A.M around. Visited ancient Shani temple at Kharsali. Tea at priest’s house. Started to comeback by 1 P.M. Shared jeep to Barkot. Then bus to Naugaon. Halt.

7th, SUN: Took 6:00 A.M GMOU bus to Vikasnagar. Reached around 11:30 A.M. Bus to Dehradun ISBT. Reached around 1 P.M. Finally, bus to Delhi. Reached Delhi around midnight.

© Himanshu Dutt, 2010