Embrace or Conquer / The Lord Within

This morning while getting hooked onto Sadhguru's youtube channel, I came across the one polite answer to the debate whether we should embrace or conquer. Embrace means "being one" with your goal; conquer is "to fight" whether you love it or not. My thoughts begin to dwell. Do I embrace the mountains or is it merely a quest to conquer? Frankly, I still don't know the answer. Can't even guess.

Ariel View of Saari Village

White debating between Dhakuri Trek or Tungnath, I chose the later one. Although I knew Hukum will miss this winter fun, but then I was unsure if we would get snow at Dhakuri top or not. Hukum's visit is unavoidable and we as group had only 3 days in hand. Being at both the places before, I knew Dhakuri does not offer any better motivation than Tungnath. A vibrant temple, with Chaukhamba on its mount that's how it was. And I have been there twice before. But at times Chilta temple looked to me more beautiful and inspiring when I take a moment to imagine how nice was it sitting at the temple stairs, watching the view in the front and sweet breeze blowing through the hair, and the sound of hustle of the leaves. Anyway, Tungnath was mutually decided by group. What was undecided within me is - to embrace or conquer.

Temple before Deoria Taal

Kuldeep Rawat, Darshan Negi, Anuj were joining us for the first time. Kuldeep Rawat, a jovial man with glowing face in the late 30's appeared fresh and happy and rum fragrant from his mouth. I got to know Sandy and Kuldeep had a cheerful party a while ago to celebrate this togetherness. Darshan, also in his late 30's is slightly reserve but a positive man with great faith in god and humanity. Anuj is my office colleague, a light hearted man with good heart but someone who needs direction  every now and then. Rest the crew was same - Ranjan, the loudest man on Earth; Sanjay, the live show (post his drinking); Sandy, the drinking machine, Yash, the soluble sugar (gels with everyone); Abhishek, the inquisitive mind with tongue for coffee; Prem, the man "always on fire" and blackberry. 

R to L Ranjan, Abhishek, Anuj, Sandy, Darshan, Sanjay, Kuldeep, Yash & Prem

The Guptkashi bus dropped us at Ghat at 10 a.m around, comfortably. The hired jeep took us to Ukhimath GMVN, our destination for the day. After quickly refreshing up, we decided to have quick meal and then off to Deoria Taal. After all, we had full day. Ukhimath market has a feel - looks like a typical hamlet on a ridge crowded with colorful shops, loud music playing on stereo, the rambling sound of Mahindra jeeps, and  their drivers taking a smoke break, people chitchatting about economic condition of the state, or simply bathing themselves in warm sun. We had a quick but heartily lunch. The jeep continued it journey towards Sari village, the place I knew well before. A steep climb of 2 kms around from here will take us to the taal. Deoria Taal is famous of its reflection of Chaukhamba that many enthusiast photographers attempt to capture through their lens. While reaching for Deoria Taal, we saw school children coming down after their 'picnic'. About 3 p.m we also reached the spot. The mesmerizing Chakhumba showed it aura - the snow clad tips of the four-sided peaks is truly a delight to see. And the photo session began. How I wanted to sleep here in this sunshine, in the shadow of the mighty mountains overlooking the lines along the water body. But the sun was setting. 

Deoria Taal

The crew came back to their dormitory beds at GMVN Ukimath, right on their spots except some of us who went for the groceries for the trek next day to the temple of the lord Tungnath ji. Soon after the happy times began. Kuldeep bhai inaugurated the evening lamp session of "somras" - very much required to negotiate with the heat of the day. Darshan bhai was still silent until he had few glasses going inside his throat right into his passage to stomach. Sandy as usual was the bartender with his "heavy machine pegs" that he labelled as 'little little'. In now way, those pegs were little, infact, each peg was over 90 ml dose - I can confidently say that.

Negotiating the Snow enroute Tungnath temple trek

But since he do not prefer to listen 'No', so everyone included me gulped the first round. Sitting over drinks with Sandy is like a heavy weight boxing championship- you are being knocked out each moment with his 90 mls peg till you finally say - everything here is revolving, so is the leg of the chicken we brought from Ukhimath market for the evening that GMVN cook Negi and Chamola had made for us. Only Prem is able to take those punches but I bet even he is grasping for breath after a few pegs. I recall Prem also refused to accept the pegs made by Sandy soon after. As for us - the poor fellows - it doesn't matter who makes the peg - Sandy or somebody else. Anyways, we have to drink till the revolving feeling starts engulfing us in its cloud. Morning next day, we got to know Kuldeep bhai was declared as the "winner of the championship" that lasted for over four gruesome hours. The winner of the battle showed no proud-ness for this achievement but Sandy did. We made fun of him since he was over drunk and revolving on the dinner table. That was the only time I saw gap in Sandy's feeling for chicken - he could not eat. He hardly ate any.

Ganesha Temple, 500 mtrs before the emple

Enroute Tungnath Temple Trek

Next morning Kuldeep bhai gave the jars of dry fruits that he was carrying. We made pocket pouches for all. Hired jeep came to receive us. A drop to Chopta and back was agreed for Rs. 1000. After an hour's travel, covering some 30 kms we reached Dugalbitta - the snow spread carpet did not allowed jeep to go any further. That's what I wanted too - to walk. After all that's what we all are here for.

The snow started to get thick - all over the place - as we walked through the jungle patch. The sun was up too. Covering some 2.5 kms on jungle trail, we reached Chopta. The path was well charted - no possibility of confusion. By that time, all my share of dry fruits were already inside my belly. The appetite was back again and at the only open tea shop, we ordered paranthas for all. The activity took fair amount of time and realizing that we started climbing the real part of the trek - towards the temple. By the time we reached half way, each one of us grasping for breath. Sandy was leading, Yash was managing group in between, Sanjay and Ranjan following the tail clicking photographs. Kuldeep & Darshan bhai asked me second time how much more does it require walking? where is the temple? The usual answer is - a bit more and we are there. But we were only half way. It was almost 1 pm and we still not been able to reach the temple though we started from chopta after our parantha session at about 11:20 a.m. But we are not in hurry. In fact idea is to enjoy every bit of it - the white space spreading all over the area - the white snow patches, the shining high Choukhamba and the warm-hearted fellow members joking, talking, coughing and puffing.

The temple bell rang. Abhishek was murmuring something over his phone - video recording. Me and Ranjan tried looking at the Akash-kund and got ourselves ankle deep into the snow. I hate it when snow gets into your shoes and starts melting in through with the heat of the feet. In awe, I tried to tell Ranjan not to come here at akash kund, but he was close already. We reached the temple and suddenly everything was completely holy. As if we are on some pilgrimage. Only thing bothering us is now our dry throats - no water and all snow - taking us nowhere. It was there I remember to be carrying apples that we took as part of trek grocery. Half apple for each - made our day. The worth of a half apple you know when you are standing at 13,000+ feet with no water around.And then we did what you can choose to call as nasty - our classic and cult bare chest photograph - right in the snow desert, in front of the temple. It is something crazy, weird but made us all come together. The ultimate fun. The barometer of our unitedness. The celebration of togetherness - does not matter if we were embracing it or conquering it. And to this day even the quest continues. 

Later that evening another round of championship was initiated and this there were all chicken legs in the pan and all over my plate. 

Plan in brief:

22nd evening: Delhi-Guptkashi bus via Rishikesh covering a distance of about 400 kms. Reached Ghat at 10 a.m. Stayed at GMVN Ukhimath. Visited Deoriataal - 2 kms trek from Saari Village. Approx 16 kms from GMVN Ukhimath. 

23rd - Tungnath Trek - 5.5 kms in total from Dugalbitta, and 3 kms from Chopta

24th - Holy dip at Rudraprayag 

25th morning - office ... no Christmas holiday for us  :(

for more info on Tungnath Click here 

(c) Himanshu

The Happenstance / Kuari Pass, Uttarakhand, India

The Team (L to R) Last Row: Prem, Sanjay, Yash, Sandy, Beeru
2nd Row: Abhishek, Hukum, Rajeev Ji. Front: Ranjan

Chamoli Skies

Happenstance, for some reasons it was. We plan. It rains. We plan again, it rains again. And every time it rains, it rips our dream apart of - to go to the Lord of the Mountains. Then, we planned again looking at the weather God and with our hearts praying. Soul to soul. The prayer answered, rain stopped but there were the news of devastation from several cloudbursts that happened around several places in Garhwal, precisely, in Chamoli region. It was a disappointment to hear many people got displaced and several lost lives. But life has to go on, and so goes our planning for Kuari Pass which is in the making for now over a month. Initially when I mailed the itinerary to everyone I know, the response was slow. Only confirmed person were Rajeev Ji, Hukum, Ranjan and Sanjay. Gagan opted out at the last moment, and Saurabh also could not go, Sanjeev has just changed his job so could not come, and Gaurav also did not respond back. From a group that was about some 8-10 people big has not reduced to just 5. 

Badrinath (Bus Stand) at 3 pm

Hukum confirmed me that 3 more people will be coming along with him, one of which is his cousin - Yash Rawat, Prem Rekhola and Sandeep Arya (Sandy). Another young chap who joined us was Abhishek. And as per plan, everybody met at ISBT Anand Vihar, Delhi at 7 p.m. In fact, Hukum already got our tickets blocked for Chamoli and we boarded the new lot of Uttarakhand Roadways that looked well off compared to others in the sight. But the bus will leave at 9:30. So we started to know each other. 

Ranjan and Sanjay, now 1 trek old with me, took out the Vodka and started their socializing activity soon enough.We were killing time, chatting up, trying to know each other. Yash, almost of my height, is young, jovial, a little shy and introvert sort of guy. Sandy is opposite to this nature. He gels well, smiles more frequently and obviously a over-rated social drinker. Prem has a vibrant face, glowing skin and coarse voice. He spent all his time chatting up on his mobile. I was wondering at his stamina of marathon of words. But he is overall a soft natured guy. Abhishek, I have now known for 4-5 years. I taught him during his MBA days.

Badrinath (towards GMVN)

Nanda Devi (evening view from Gorson)

He initially heisted to chat but soon became the part of the group. Ranjan is most enthusiastic person I have ever met in this life. When we were planning this trip, almost every day he calls me up or drops a message about the plan. To me it looks like, he has been infected with the disease called 'Hill-maniac' and like the one who carry this disease - he has become 'escapist' who looks for an encounter with hills, every now and then. Sanjay, is my office colleague, who is very judgmental, argumentative at times, reserved and passionate about his office work-life. He has a big heart, and carries his mixture of myth and wisdom. He is quite jolly with me and Ranjan, who is his childhood friend as well. Remained now is Rajeev Ji, who is heart of all conversations and has been known to me for 3-4 years. We did a couple of treks together. He is centre-point of all groups I have been with. He is also good at socializing, in fact better than Sandeep, as per the vital stats.   

Beeru, our guide, trying to fetch some water from a nearby stream

The bus started at the said time. And I asked Ranjan to hand me over the food packet which his mother had made and father had packed diligently. Soon after I asked for another, such was my hunger. Conversations begin soon. Rajeev Ji soon after came to his freestyle, he made a place for himself to lie down and relax just near to rear gate. We all after sometimes and about after a little chit-chatting was dozing off one by one. 

We reached Chamoli at about 10:45 a.m, took jeep to Joshimath and from there to Badrinath Ji. Enroute, Sanjay found that one of the bottle of rum cracked in his sack. His clothes drenched into the smell or what social drinkers called it as - aroma of rum. This disappointed him. 

Haath-Ghodi Parvat

Ranjan, walking up the trail

At 3 pm about we reached the Lord's abode - Badrinath. This day was special being Ganesha Chaturthi. We hired 2 rooms at GMVN, who agreed to gave us third for free to our delight - at Rs. 810 per room, it was cheap plus third for free which makes - 180 per head. It was already cloudy outside. Anytime rain might start, I said to myself. We quickly unpacked our stuff in our rooms, picked up our clothes, to take a bath in the holy kund and have Badrinath's darshan thereafter. It started to rain soon. We quickly took the dip in the kund. The water was hotter than hot. We had quick bath, and proceeded towards the temple. There was a line for aarti at the gate of the temple, though not long. Only Rajeev ji managed to have darshan, rest of us, had darshan from outside. And to be honest, nobody complained. I was happy that Lord has allowed me to comeback again this year to his abode. That very feeling made me satisfied. 

Taali

We waited for Rajeev Ji to comeback. The group was unintentionally divided into two. Ranjan, Sanjay, Me, Abhishek and Rajeev Ji and Hukum, Yash, Prem and Sandy into another. The group still needed the bonding to stick together and enjoy. Our group quickly had dinner while the other group was awaiting us for the same. Nevermind, we went out again for the supper. The food we ate was pathetic, we just managed to send something inside our stomach. After that, we sat for sometime, gossiping while some of us chose to surrender themselves to sweet sleep.   

The Trail

Next day, Prem arranged tea for everyone. After that, I decided to take a dip and have quick darshan before we proceed to Joshimath back again for Kuari Pass. Abhishek followed. And then came Ranjan and Sanjay as well. Rest of the group decided to laze and graze. The water in the kund was soothing and we enjoyed every bit of the moment. Then we had little puja performed by an elderly priest for us at the kund. We went for darshan thereafter. The temple premise was clear. There were about 7-8 people inside the temple, and we had great darshan with nearly 15 minutes inside the premise, closely looking at Bhagwan Vishnu's saligram idol in black. It was moment of truth, soul stirring, one to one with Lord. There was silence and penance both at the same place. Overjoyed, we came out of the temple to click some snaps. 

We crossed that top to reach here

The group was at its best once again. We negotiated with a Jeep driver for a drop at Mana and then back to Joshimath. All I could say, from here onward, the chemicals between us all started to gel. We were uniting while untying ourselves from our egos. The last Indian village picture at least confirms the same. As we passed through Mana village, then on Bhim-Pul (bridge), looking at gushing Saraswati, to trying our hands on ploughing to what Yash referred as, ploughing the last Indian village - in all we were coming closer, uniting, bonding and becoming ourselves to each other. After posing for pics, and a relaxed breakfast, we started for Joshimath. 

Trail, enroute

At Joshimath, we have had already arranged for the Kuari Pass trek through a local trek operator, a day before. Per day per person Rs. 1000, which we duly agreed to. For next 3 days, our home will be the beautiful bugyals and small trails of Kuari Pass. An easy trek, Kuari Pass can be done in 3 days depending upon from which place you want to start your trek. Lord Curzon's trail is the longest route that starts with Ghat and ends at Tapovan. We preferred to do it via Auli-Goson-Tali-Khulara-Kuari to save time. Beautiful trail, blue skies, with Himalayan ranges in our sight; it was an experience I was certainly dying for. We started our trek from Auli, after a hot and heartly dal-chawal meal at GMVN. Our destination was Gorson top for the night halt. It was about 3 pm when we started our trek. We reached the campsite about 5 pm amidst laughters and leg pulling. We had a brief halt at Padiyar Devta, the place from where a little distance upwards we had to camp. Our guide Beeru announced call for tea soon after.
            

Sanjay, tired. 

Me, Yash and Prem decided to take a stroll and after the tea session, we started to climb to the top. Nanda Devi East was visible. Among others were Haathi-Ghora, Mana Parvat, Neelkanth and a whole ranges of unknown glaciers - unknown at least to me. The view was like- sun spreading slowly, stretching itself like a sea on to the glacial snow white tip of the Nanda Devi. The moment was special. It was about two lovers who promised to meet again - the mountain like a Romeo shall wait for his love, Juliet, to shine again the next day. It defines the parting ways with a hope to meet again. 

Pangarchula top is visible

O' Soul,  the greatly God,

My sin is you, penance is you,

I long for you, I stand for you...

...and in my prejudice, I ignore all

to embrace you

The highest ridge of the top

With sunset, the warmth, started to decline and the rise of droplets from the sky started to tap. By now, we were back to our camps. I saw Ranjan and Hukum, working hard over the small stove, trying to cook, the chicken. It will be ready in few minutes for serve said Hukum. The mention of 'few minutes' in his tone looked satisfying since each one of us were hungry. And we three were dying, since we missed the soup to compose the above-said poem. Along with Yash and Prem, I begin to bring the woods to light the fire. Soon Sandeep and Abhishek also came in to help. Yash made many attempts to light up the woods drenched in the mositure and the mistness. Prem also occasionally attempted to blow the woods to light up the fire to help Yash. Sandeep remarked "tum kuch kar lo ye aag nahi jalegi". It turned out to be like that. Little fire that we could blow up was almost of no use. It gave no warmth. We wasted our efforts and some 2 ltr of kerosene as well. So we retired to our camps. How we wished if we all could be accommodated into just one single tent. And, here we are 4 people each in 3 tents. That's how the life is - with and without. The chicken was served in each tent. It tasted good with tangy curd flavor. When it comes to cooking - I know nothing beats Hukum. Ranjan is our next in command. A round of drinks were started in each tent. I was placed with Ranjan and Sanjay. Another group was - Prem, Abhishek and Rajeev Ji and the last one had - Hukum, Yash and Sandy. 

                                                                                       After a couple of Vodka pegs with Ranjan, Sanjay complained of fever. Abhishek also felt uneasy since he gulped two pegs of Vodka. I had one large peg of rum as life saver from the cold outside. Gorson was colder than I thought. Soon after, Abhishek vomitted. And, we came out of the tent, again around the dying fire in group. The much hyped talk was about Rajeev Ji and Sandeep - who asked everyone to vacate the tent to discuss something they labelled as - private. The food was served. And the day was called 'over'.

In our tents, everything was there except the sleep - the comfort of bed was required to get that much needed sleep. And, the first time sleeping bag users complained 'lack of sleepness'. Sanjay was shivering and we had to made him wear jacket. After sometime he felt comfortable and slept for a while. 

The morning was broken. It was 6 am. Some of us were out by now. We continue our journey after the breakfast to reach the pass. Quickly, the breakfast was served - bread, omelette, tea, coffee and our lunches were being packed. About 8 am, we left Gorson for Pass. This was going to be the most challenging day. We started to walk upwards toward the top, where me, Yash and Prem were last evening. The trail was clear - paved well through the bugyal. We were once again face to face with the mountains - walking along. Beeru made our arrangements for drinking water. And everybody reached Tali almost at the same time. Tali was way down, after crossing the Gorson Top, the path led into the forest again. It was a sight to spend some time. Beeru called it 'lunch time' here.

Hunger was hovering around everyone but the lunch was with the porters packed neatly into separate poly-packs. They were supposed to be carried by us but we decided not to carry it. Now, we were realizing the mistake we did. After a brief wait, Beeru decided to go and check out the situation. He was right in his assessment. Since the trail at descending side is steeper, the mules might have find it hard to cross it. The trail was thin at few places in between the stretch till Tali.

From Pass

Another round of gossips initiated as we awaited for mules to comeback. But they were nowhere near. Each one of us was exhausted. The environment once again glowed in our laughter - it echoed without itch. Beeru was back and so were our ammunition - to keep us going. Hukum declared he wont go to Pass and instead go with porters to our campsite Khulara. Yash, out of the ignorance, ate some plant roots thinking of Bear Grylls of Man versus Wild, and became victim of dehydration. On pretext of helping him, Prem, who was also exhausted by now, volunteered to accompany him. Sanjay was also looking for an escape but was dual-minded. Maybe he would be thinking about office - what if people would know that he didn't completed the Pass. He knew I would tell everyone that he didn't go. But I tried to assure him and asked - go, if you are actually comfortable or else go with Hukum to Khulara and rest. I knew he was struggling inside - fighting with fever and thinking of criticism.
     

By 1 pm we started walking again. Its now steep upward climb from here. The trail further narrowed. The rocky pavement soon begin. Rajeev Ji with amazing display of stamina was in the front - leading the group along with Beeru who was guiding us. I was at the tail's end - to help push Sanjay and look after him. Afterall he wasn't well. Sanjay gets easily agitated. He was fighting every moment to climb upwards. Ranjan was just before him. At one point of time he was also struggling but he was fine, somehow managing himself. The truth about an upward climb or trekking is that some people think that others are comfortable climbing while they are not. But the fact is, each one of the climbers are fighting within themselves. Its about mental will power - some have it strong while some give it up easily. I am glad that here nobody gave up. It was first time for both - so I can understand the feeling they were going through. 

from Dhak

At last the flag appeared. The top was visible. Beeru said, we have reached. This was about 4:40 pm around. The wind was piercing our body. Leaving me and Sanjay, each one of us started to climb down. Sanjay preferred to rest and I was busy clicking photographs. In the front was Panagarchula top, the rocks and stones all over it. It looked like a black mountain difficult to climb due to big boulders. To its left was Ronti Saddle, and extreme left were Dronagiri and Nanda Devi, by now, engulfed into the clouds. To my right and down-side was silver birch forest, shining. But the wind had made it hard for us to stand there now, making it miserable for us to stationed there. And we started to make our way back to Khulara. All downwards - the Khulara campsite was a plateau - but the steep downward climb was knee stressing. I think it was shortcut that Beeru made us do since we had time crunch. Finally, we reached Khulara and the Sun said goodbye. 

Vishnu Gad, coming from Tapovan

It was good thatYash and Prem took effort to light up the fire. It was glowing - truly a fire for a perfect campfire. We had tea, a round of soup then followed. It was better than the dampening cold of Gorson. But I had my muffler wrapped around my head and ears - the wind at the top gave me this headache, I told myself. Prem vacated his seat for me to warm up my bones beside the fire. It soothed my soul - his kindness and the lovely fire. We did not spend much time at the campfire, instead we chose to rest in our tents. Afterall we had walked some 16 kms today. Then came the same old situation - 3 tents, 3 groups, a round of Rum and sleepless night in the sack. The only feeling that kept us satisfied is reminding ourselves we made it to the top. With that grand feeling, we retired to sleep and wake up in our minds, eyes closed. 

All this while, I was thinking- once strangers, today we stand here like brothers. And this feeling came back again at the same place where this affair was started - ISBT, Delhi. Though, a winter trek in December is being planned by the group now but I don't know now if this same group will ever be able to unite again for another trek or not. All I can say however is that some of us have got friends for lives. And that's not anymore a happenstance.

(c) Himanshu
www.flickr.com/myth_drinker

Question of the Lifetime / Munsiyari, Kumaon, Uttarakhand

Yesterday night I spent most of the time thinking about my life and my so called future. Most of the thinking was about – how do I want my life to be? Certainly not much I desire, but I can’t be blindfold to the average Indian progressing whose probably sole aim is to improve the life standards. But what defines that standard? A classic case is IIT/IIM students venturing out to find their life opting out of nicely paid jobs arranged through placement cell.

Garhmukteshwar (both pics)

This is not for me having known that I can only stick to the job that I have in my hand. Not that I can’t do! But no immediate plans I have such. So – how do I make my life live the way I want it to be. The DNA and search for its genesis is not new to a thinking mind - to decode real meaning of life but not the Buddha way certainly!

Your biggest strength could be your biggest weakness too – your family. Thinking of them, I can’t just runaway to continue my search about the question I’ve raised to myself.

So whenever I get the opportunity to backpack, take full advantage leveraging it to my competitive advantage as management philosophers have described the situation.

Such an opportunity came through Gaurav, who called up after a long gap of time almost after 2008. Gaurav, I’ve remember of him as a student but his nature-loving side of life – was something I did not knew about.

On Nainital Road

Until one day he sent me a message with few pics about his brief trips to hills and what I remember is having seen the pics from his Gangotri-Gaumukh diary on the facebook. A program was made after successive interactions with him – to Munsiyari.

January 24th 2011, morning about 3:30 am, they came in Alto to pick me up from my place. It was hard – finding my place and therefore, I had to guide them the way to a near-by point. There were 3 of them – inside car. Gaurav, alongwith Vikram – a likeminded fellow traveler like us in his early thirties like me, built like me, height like me – almost. At the back was a tall lean guy – Pawan Dubey – who works with NTC. I adjusted myself with him at the back seat. I realized that I had to use ATM service. After which we set off to a journey to find some questions and pursue some answers.

Marriage Procession at Golu Devta Temple, Chittai, Almora

The interaction started among us and with that my fear of – how these guys will be which also often crossed my mind as the date came closer – was tamed down. I was satisfied to be with them. All clean and nice guys – likeminded – just I was. It feels good when you have companions who give you space and understand you as much as you do about yourself. There is a very limited fraternity who is crazy for travels and treks – I was glad to be with them, finding them to be – easy and friendly.

First glimpse - Panchachuli enroute Berinag

And came then Garhmukteshwar between our talks and the stereo playing new-age film songs. Few shots of rising sun over Garhganga from the bridge – refreshed us. The scene was chillier than the chill in the wind itself. But it was quite a feeling to relish. And we set off further.

Approaching Berinag

About 11 around, we reached Haldwani, took quick bites on the paranthas that Gaurav has brought with him alongwith cold drink bottles. We were but not quite much hungry then.

The drive to Almora was almost very swift until we crossed Khairna past Kainchi Dham. The massive rains of last year made this route that once was quite a delight, miserable to drive. With lots of hitches and hikes, on some 20 kms long stretch, we reached back side of Almora’s main bazzar. It was here we took up serious lunch, ate heartly meal, and stretched ourselves. It was 2 O’clock.

KMVN, Choukori

We were quick enough to eat and soon left Almora to reach our destination for the day and night halt – Berinag.

However original plan was to reach Chaukori. After a long drive through Cedars, and Silver Birch jungles that we passed through – came Berinag. That was some 120 kms from Almora. At 7 pm, it the small hill-town looked dead. Some taxi-jeep drivers were chatting up besides the fire to fight the January chill. We checked into a hotel that was almost clean, hurriedly. A previous hotel we checked in was not ventilated properly and price-wise also high, though difference was not significant. That night we opened up the bottles – to refresh ourselves from the tiredness and be ready for another day.

Berinag to Choukori

It was nice – some friends and few bottles. Although we all don’t drink and were very occasional beer drinkers, except Pawan who could beat monsters in competition, and sipped upon Old Monk lavishly.

I chose go with Rum, a nice peg, enough to keep you warm. As the clock struck 9, we got worried for food since we knew that on small remote hill town, the usual business closes early, and very early during winters. Thank God, we were just on time.

Takula Falls enroute Birthi

Next morning, the sun was up already and so were I. There was an astonishing view of Panchachuli ranges in the front that were seen from the back side of the hotel and to its extreme left at farther end was Nanda Devi.

Chakouri was nearby, some 30 kms, so we decided for our breakfast break. Chakouri, I found was more of a place to take strolls, until my thoughts were distorted as soon as we entered into KMVN. The view was grand. The Himalayan ranges eye to eye, in our front. And my hands reached fast for my Canon XSi hanging by strap around my neck. Just when me and Gaurav were discussing about them, Pawan called up to say, breakfast is ready, and we climbed down from the elevation point for tourists to see the white feathered hill ranges. As good was the breakfast we had.

We stuffed the fuel for the day and left Chakouri with assumptions about Munsiyari. Suddenly we had this great urge to reach Munsiyari and be close to Panchachuli.

It was not my first time in Kumaon, neither in the district Pithoragarh. Earlier I’ve been to Tanakpur-Champawat-Pithoragarh belt right from from Poornagiri temple along the banks of Sharda river to Kali-Gori Ganga confluence in Jauljibi, to wilderness of Askot sanctuary to the swinging bridge between India and Nepal at Dharchula. Infact I’ve been upto Tawaghat. While this belt was towards down, the belt on which I’m on with my friends now move upwards. With gossips, songs, stories, leg-pulling, sharing facts and experience, we came all along long way to Birthi falls. But before that there was one single delight that we found and got hooked to for sometimes was Takula Falls – visible from the road itself, some 150 mtrs fall – all white, sprinkling white.

Birthi Falls (both the pics)

Birthi was a delight too. Infact a bigger delight if not better. The statement requires understanding the difference between better and bigger. One thing that makes it bigger if not better was you can get close one to one with Birthi Falls. And that’s what we did to move from bigger to better experience. We bathed. Despite cold response from Gaurav, no self opinion of Pawan, and lukewarm response from Vikram; we ended up enjoying the bath in icy cold water of Birthi in the warm Sun.

Refreshed!

We headed towards Kalamuni. All this while, Vikram was driving. No wonder, you need guts to steer on the hills right from early morning to late evening. I was amazed with his passion for driving. He was indeed enjoying it or atleast it seemed to me. Whoa! In the meanwhile, snow patches started to appear. Pawan yelled in excitement, Snow! Stop! But Vikram didn’t with a promise that there’s more to come ahead. He did fulfill the promise and we took some shots enroute.
We arrived at Kalamuni, the temple of the Goddess Kali around 2 pm. The beauty was – you got to see the both side views from here. However I’m not sure how many of us noticed that because my fellows were looking at the snow around. We quickly paid our homage to the Goddess and gave order for the tea. The sun was playing hide and seek. Sometimes windy air blows through our hairs touching us with all its chillness, to sizzle us. Kalamuni was place to be. I could spend a full day here sipping upon unlimited tea and grazing at the two sides of the world. We took off again.

Just after half an hour, we were reading the signboard that read “Thamrikund – 3 Kms” along the roadside next to the temple of monkey-God Hanuman. We paid out homage and move towards the signboard to explore Thamrikund with mixed feelings and set of different combinations – to go really or not. Actually, it was already 3:20 pm around when we started moving towards Thamrikund and we were not sure if we would be able to reach due to the snow.

Approaching Kalamuni & Kalamuni Temple

Then also we had no idea about how far Munsiyari will be from here.

Thamrikund (first view)

After up and down on slopes between the snow that made us hard for walk, we somehow, after moderate difficulty reached Thamrikund. Gaurav slipped once or twice, and got scared of hitting his new Canon on the surface. He protested and resisted just like Pawan did – but Pawan’s reasons was ofcourse not the snow but the fear of animals especially the bear.

But we encountered nothing but the snow. Gaurav probably was thinking how he would make it going back. And the sun was setting too. Almost it was 5 O’clock when we started to comeback but deep in our hearts we did not wanted to comeback atleast for some more time. Thamrikund is the lake that was partly filled with snow to one side and partly where the sun rays reached, the water was warm. This reminded me of Devaria Taal enoute Chopta, during my visit to Tungnath.

Thamrikund (the other side had snow)

Atlast we came back and continued driving to Munsiyari that was still some 16 kms from here. The snow on road got thick and slippery. With utmost cautious, Vikram steered through the snow and the dark. Atlast we reached Munsiyari just when the last ray of sun gave the much closer Panchachuli its last gleam. What a sight it was, unforgettable! Soon after we got busy with finding accommodation.

Nanda Devi Temple, Munsiyari
In Hotel Rajrambha, we settled down for 500 bucks for a dormitory-like room which he was resisting to but gave after we sought shelter in some other hotel. But we had to come back to shift to Rajrambha for tidiness though it was also not par with any standard. But did we have more choice?

This evening too the bottles were out – beer for other and rum for Pawan. But before that we surveyed the place and came back after taking an early meal.

Panchachuli

At 7pm what a deserted look, Munsiyari bore. I purchased a set of hand woven carpet from here for 6000 bucks which I really liked and I assume Gaurav too. Although, after purchasing it I got skeptical because I didn’t think about how it’ll be carried in Alto. Gaurav said “we will find a way, ab to le liya”.

Khaliya Top : Slope we walked on

We enjoyed our conversations during the night but I have no clue when I fell asleep after finishing my share of beer and thoughts. It was probably 9:30 around.

Point of start of Khalia Top Trek

Next day we got up early – first Gaurav, then me and Vikram. Gaurav was getting restless to get the first glimpse of Panchachuli. Vikram occasionally tried leg pulling and I was enjoying it in my own way.

Pawan was still asleep or maybe getting ready while we were on hotel rooftop to click snaps.

It was colder than I though freezing our hands and we came down. We packed our stuff and prepared to visit Nanda Devi temple.

Nanda Devi (L) and Panchachuli (M-R)

The temple offered fabulous views of Panchachuli to its left side.

We also climbed up on a elevation point made for tourists to see Panchachuli – obstacle free.

We paid our homage to the Goddess Nanda and spent quite some time there looking at the massive structures of snow – the Himalayas.

Around 8 we were back at Rajrambha hotel to take our breakfast. Hot paranthas with hot simmering tea. And we were ready to climb famous Khaliya Top.

Flock of birds

We were making our plans to do Khalia Top from quite sometime and dealing with questions – Do we need a guide? Where to find one? I contacted Laxaman Singh after reading Almora Boy’s blog and taking reference from here but he demanded 4500 for a night’s stay at Khalia Top. And we decided to explore it by ourselves.

Although we did not reached the top but we got quite near to it. Snow made it hard to penetrate through the way to top and its intensity increased just as we got near to the huts. Vikram and Pawan climbed a bit more to observe things better – the Panchachuli. However the view from down to the huts was satisfying for me. This is where I said to Gaurav that I will spend my time here looking at the massifs of each of the mountains. Later we met two other gentlemen alongwith the guide who also planned not to go up and stop there to enjoy the view and the warmth of the sun. I did not go because I didn’t want to rush things.

Me, being one with my question!

I rather wanted to give it time – time to observe and cleanse my thoughts, drive my instincts and let me be in my void ness with my very own-self. For a minute we spoke nothing, did nothing and just sat quietly to seek our own “moment of truth”. A truth that we might not have known or would never be known. Just like this question – what is it that I want from my life remains!

Itinenary:

Day 1: Started @ 4am from Delhi in Alto; Reached Haldwani @ 11 (260kms); then Almora @ 2pm (90 kms). Halt for Lunch and thereafter Berinag @ 7pm (120 kms). Night Halt.

Day 2: Left Berinag @ 7:40 am; Reached Chaukori @ 9:15a.m (40kms); then Birthi Falls (50 kms), spend about 2 hrs here, and reached Kalamuni @ 2:40p.m (35kms); then Thamrikund (18kms).Trekked to the lake and came back 5pm. Finally reached Munsiyari @ 6pm driving through the snow patches on the road.

Day 3: Visited Nanda Devi temple @ 8 am (2 kms from Munsiyari town), came back for breakfast, packed our stuff and drove to Khalia Top bend @ 10a.m backwards. Did Khalia top trek and returned back @ 2pm. Drove off to Bagheshwar. Night Halt.

Day 4: Started 5a.m from Bageshwar. @ 6a.m Baijnath temples and then via - Kausani (Kosani) - Garur - Someshwar - Ranikeht - Bhimtal - Haldwani - Delhi @ 10:30 pm (total approx. 490 kms).

© Himanshu Dutt

for more pics: www.flickr.com/myth_drinker