Embrace or Conquer / The Lord Within

This morning while getting hooked onto Sadhguru's youtube channel, I came across the one polite answer to the debate whether we should embrace or conquer. Embrace means "being one" with your goal; conquer is "to fight" whether you love it or not. My thoughts begin to dwell. Do I embrace the mountains or is it merely a quest to conquer? Frankly, I still don't know the answer. Can't even guess.

Ariel View of Saari Village

White debating between Dhakuri Trek or Tungnath, I chose the later one. Although I knew Hukum will miss this winter fun, but then I was unsure if we would get snow at Dhakuri top or not. Hukum's visit is unavoidable and we as group had only 3 days in hand. Being at both the places before, I knew Dhakuri does not offer any better motivation than Tungnath. A vibrant temple, with Chaukhamba on its mount that's how it was. And I have been there twice before. But at times Chilta temple looked to me more beautiful and inspiring when I take a moment to imagine how nice was it sitting at the temple stairs, watching the view in the front and sweet breeze blowing through the hair, and the sound of hustle of the leaves. Anyway, Tungnath was mutually decided by group. What was undecided within me is - to embrace or conquer.

Temple before Deoria Taal

Kuldeep Rawat, Darshan Negi, Anuj were joining us for the first time. Kuldeep Rawat, a jovial man with glowing face in the late 30's appeared fresh and happy and rum fragrant from his mouth. I got to know Sandy and Kuldeep had a cheerful party a while ago to celebrate this togetherness. Darshan, also in his late 30's is slightly reserve but a positive man with great faith in god and humanity. Anuj is my office colleague, a light hearted man with good heart but someone who needs direction  every now and then. Rest the crew was same - Ranjan, the loudest man on Earth; Sanjay, the live show (post his drinking); Sandy, the drinking machine, Yash, the soluble sugar (gels with everyone); Abhishek, the inquisitive mind with tongue for coffee; Prem, the man "always on fire" and blackberry. 

R to L Ranjan, Abhishek, Anuj, Sandy, Darshan, Sanjay, Kuldeep, Yash & Prem

The Guptkashi bus dropped us at Ghat at 10 a.m around, comfortably. The hired jeep took us to Ukhimath GMVN, our destination for the day. After quickly refreshing up, we decided to have quick meal and then off to Deoria Taal. After all, we had full day. Ukhimath market has a feel - looks like a typical hamlet on a ridge crowded with colorful shops, loud music playing on stereo, the rambling sound of Mahindra jeeps, and  their drivers taking a smoke break, people chitchatting about economic condition of the state, or simply bathing themselves in warm sun. We had a quick but heartily lunch. The jeep continued it journey towards Sari village, the place I knew well before. A steep climb of 2 kms around from here will take us to the taal. Deoria Taal is famous of its reflection of Chaukhamba that many enthusiast photographers attempt to capture through their lens. While reaching for Deoria Taal, we saw school children coming down after their 'picnic'. About 3 p.m we also reached the spot. The mesmerizing Chakhumba showed it aura - the snow clad tips of the four-sided peaks is truly a delight to see. And the photo session began. How I wanted to sleep here in this sunshine, in the shadow of the mighty mountains overlooking the lines along the water body. But the sun was setting. 

Deoria Taal

The crew came back to their dormitory beds at GMVN Ukimath, right on their spots except some of us who went for the groceries for the trek next day to the temple of the lord Tungnath ji. Soon after the happy times began. Kuldeep bhai inaugurated the evening lamp session of "somras" - very much required to negotiate with the heat of the day. Darshan bhai was still silent until he had few glasses going inside his throat right into his passage to stomach. Sandy as usual was the bartender with his "heavy machine pegs" that he labelled as 'little little'. In now way, those pegs were little, infact, each peg was over 90 ml dose - I can confidently say that.

Negotiating the Snow enroute Tungnath temple trek

But since he do not prefer to listen 'No', so everyone included me gulped the first round. Sitting over drinks with Sandy is like a heavy weight boxing championship- you are being knocked out each moment with his 90 mls peg till you finally say - everything here is revolving, so is the leg of the chicken we brought from Ukhimath market for the evening that GMVN cook Negi and Chamola had made for us. Only Prem is able to take those punches but I bet even he is grasping for breath after a few pegs. I recall Prem also refused to accept the pegs made by Sandy soon after. As for us - the poor fellows - it doesn't matter who makes the peg - Sandy or somebody else. Anyways, we have to drink till the revolving feeling starts engulfing us in its cloud. Morning next day, we got to know Kuldeep bhai was declared as the "winner of the championship" that lasted for over four gruesome hours. The winner of the battle showed no proud-ness for this achievement but Sandy did. We made fun of him since he was over drunk and revolving on the dinner table. That was the only time I saw gap in Sandy's feeling for chicken - he could not eat. He hardly ate any.

Ganesha Temple, 500 mtrs before the emple

Enroute Tungnath Temple Trek

Next morning Kuldeep bhai gave the jars of dry fruits that he was carrying. We made pocket pouches for all. Hired jeep came to receive us. A drop to Chopta and back was agreed for Rs. 1000. After an hour's travel, covering some 30 kms we reached Dugalbitta - the snow spread carpet did not allowed jeep to go any further. That's what I wanted too - to walk. After all that's what we all are here for.

The snow started to get thick - all over the place - as we walked through the jungle patch. The sun was up too. Covering some 2.5 kms on jungle trail, we reached Chopta. The path was well charted - no possibility of confusion. By that time, all my share of dry fruits were already inside my belly. The appetite was back again and at the only open tea shop, we ordered paranthas for all. The activity took fair amount of time and realizing that we started climbing the real part of the trek - towards the temple. By the time we reached half way, each one of us grasping for breath. Sandy was leading, Yash was managing group in between, Sanjay and Ranjan following the tail clicking photographs. Kuldeep & Darshan bhai asked me second time how much more does it require walking? where is the temple? The usual answer is - a bit more and we are there. But we were only half way. It was almost 1 pm and we still not been able to reach the temple though we started from chopta after our parantha session at about 11:20 a.m. But we are not in hurry. In fact idea is to enjoy every bit of it - the white space spreading all over the area - the white snow patches, the shining high Choukhamba and the warm-hearted fellow members joking, talking, coughing and puffing.

The temple bell rang. Abhishek was murmuring something over his phone - video recording. Me and Ranjan tried looking at the Akash-kund and got ourselves ankle deep into the snow. I hate it when snow gets into your shoes and starts melting in through with the heat of the feet. In awe, I tried to tell Ranjan not to come here at akash kund, but he was close already. We reached the temple and suddenly everything was completely holy. As if we are on some pilgrimage. Only thing bothering us is now our dry throats - no water and all snow - taking us nowhere. It was there I remember to be carrying apples that we took as part of trek grocery. Half apple for each - made our day. The worth of a half apple you know when you are standing at 13,000+ feet with no water around.And then we did what you can choose to call as nasty - our classic and cult bare chest photograph - right in the snow desert, in front of the temple. It is something crazy, weird but made us all come together. The ultimate fun. The barometer of our unitedness. The celebration of togetherness - does not matter if we were embracing it or conquering it. And to this day even the quest continues. 

Later that evening another round of championship was initiated and this there were all chicken legs in the pan and all over my plate. 

Plan in brief:

22nd evening: Delhi-Guptkashi bus via Rishikesh covering a distance of about 400 kms. Reached Ghat at 10 a.m. Stayed at GMVN Ukhimath. Visited Deoriataal - 2 kms trek from Saari Village. Approx 16 kms from GMVN Ukhimath. 

23rd - Tungnath Trek - 5.5 kms in total from Dugalbitta, and 3 kms from Chopta

24th - Holy dip at Rudraprayag 

25th morning - office ... no Christmas holiday for us  :(

for more info on Tungnath Click here 

(c) Himanshu

The Happenstance / Kuari Pass, Uttarakhand, India

The Team (L to R) Last Row: Prem, Sanjay, Yash, Sandy, Beeru
2nd Row: Abhishek, Hukum, Rajeev Ji. Front: Ranjan

Chamoli Skies

Happenstance, for some reasons it was. We plan. It rains. We plan again, it rains again. And every time it rains, it rips our dream apart of - to go to the Lord of the Mountains. Then, we planned again looking at the weather God and with our hearts praying. Soul to soul. The prayer answered, rain stopped but there were the news of devastation from several cloudbursts that happened around several places in Garhwal, precisely, in Chamoli region. It was a disappointment to hear many people got displaced and several lost lives. But life has to go on, and so goes our planning for Kuari Pass which is in the making for now over a month. Initially when I mailed the itinerary to everyone I know, the response was slow. Only confirmed person were Rajeev Ji, Hukum, Ranjan and Sanjay. Gagan opted out at the last moment, and Saurabh also could not go, Sanjeev has just changed his job so could not come, and Gaurav also did not respond back. From a group that was about some 8-10 people big has not reduced to just 5. 

Badrinath (Bus Stand) at 3 pm

Hukum confirmed me that 3 more people will be coming along with him, one of which is his cousin - Yash Rawat, Prem Rekhola and Sandeep Arya (Sandy). Another young chap who joined us was Abhishek. And as per plan, everybody met at ISBT Anand Vihar, Delhi at 7 p.m. In fact, Hukum already got our tickets blocked for Chamoli and we boarded the new lot of Uttarakhand Roadways that looked well off compared to others in the sight. But the bus will leave at 9:30. So we started to know each other. 

Ranjan and Sanjay, now 1 trek old with me, took out the Vodka and started their socializing activity soon enough.We were killing time, chatting up, trying to know each other. Yash, almost of my height, is young, jovial, a little shy and introvert sort of guy. Sandy is opposite to this nature. He gels well, smiles more frequently and obviously a over-rated social drinker. Prem has a vibrant face, glowing skin and coarse voice. He spent all his time chatting up on his mobile. I was wondering at his stamina of marathon of words. But he is overall a soft natured guy. Abhishek, I have now known for 4-5 years. I taught him during his MBA days.

Badrinath (towards GMVN)

Nanda Devi (evening view from Gorson)

He initially heisted to chat but soon became the part of the group. Ranjan is most enthusiastic person I have ever met in this life. When we were planning this trip, almost every day he calls me up or drops a message about the plan. To me it looks like, he has been infected with the disease called 'Hill-maniac' and like the one who carry this disease - he has become 'escapist' who looks for an encounter with hills, every now and then. Sanjay, is my office colleague, who is very judgmental, argumentative at times, reserved and passionate about his office work-life. He has a big heart, and carries his mixture of myth and wisdom. He is quite jolly with me and Ranjan, who is his childhood friend as well. Remained now is Rajeev Ji, who is heart of all conversations and has been known to me for 3-4 years. We did a couple of treks together. He is centre-point of all groups I have been with. He is also good at socializing, in fact better than Sandeep, as per the vital stats.   

Beeru, our guide, trying to fetch some water from a nearby stream

The bus started at the said time. And I asked Ranjan to hand me over the food packet which his mother had made and father had packed diligently. Soon after I asked for another, such was my hunger. Conversations begin soon. Rajeev Ji soon after came to his freestyle, he made a place for himself to lie down and relax just near to rear gate. We all after sometimes and about after a little chit-chatting was dozing off one by one. 

We reached Chamoli at about 10:45 a.m, took jeep to Joshimath and from there to Badrinath Ji. Enroute, Sanjay found that one of the bottle of rum cracked in his sack. His clothes drenched into the smell or what social drinkers called it as - aroma of rum. This disappointed him. 

Haath-Ghodi Parvat

Ranjan, walking up the trail

At 3 pm about we reached the Lord's abode - Badrinath. This day was special being Ganesha Chaturthi. We hired 2 rooms at GMVN, who agreed to gave us third for free to our delight - at Rs. 810 per room, it was cheap plus third for free which makes - 180 per head. It was already cloudy outside. Anytime rain might start, I said to myself. We quickly unpacked our stuff in our rooms, picked up our clothes, to take a bath in the holy kund and have Badrinath's darshan thereafter. It started to rain soon. We quickly took the dip in the kund. The water was hotter than hot. We had quick bath, and proceeded towards the temple. There was a line for aarti at the gate of the temple, though not long. Only Rajeev ji managed to have darshan, rest of us, had darshan from outside. And to be honest, nobody complained. I was happy that Lord has allowed me to comeback again this year to his abode. That very feeling made me satisfied. 

Taali

We waited for Rajeev Ji to comeback. The group was unintentionally divided into two. Ranjan, Sanjay, Me, Abhishek and Rajeev Ji and Hukum, Yash, Prem and Sandy into another. The group still needed the bonding to stick together and enjoy. Our group quickly had dinner while the other group was awaiting us for the same. Nevermind, we went out again for the supper. The food we ate was pathetic, we just managed to send something inside our stomach. After that, we sat for sometime, gossiping while some of us chose to surrender themselves to sweet sleep.   

The Trail

Next day, Prem arranged tea for everyone. After that, I decided to take a dip and have quick darshan before we proceed to Joshimath back again for Kuari Pass. Abhishek followed. And then came Ranjan and Sanjay as well. Rest of the group decided to laze and graze. The water in the kund was soothing and we enjoyed every bit of the moment. Then we had little puja performed by an elderly priest for us at the kund. We went for darshan thereafter. The temple premise was clear. There were about 7-8 people inside the temple, and we had great darshan with nearly 15 minutes inside the premise, closely looking at Bhagwan Vishnu's saligram idol in black. It was moment of truth, soul stirring, one to one with Lord. There was silence and penance both at the same place. Overjoyed, we came out of the temple to click some snaps. 

We crossed that top to reach here

The group was at its best once again. We negotiated with a Jeep driver for a drop at Mana and then back to Joshimath. All I could say, from here onward, the chemicals between us all started to gel. We were uniting while untying ourselves from our egos. The last Indian village picture at least confirms the same. As we passed through Mana village, then on Bhim-Pul (bridge), looking at gushing Saraswati, to trying our hands on ploughing to what Yash referred as, ploughing the last Indian village - in all we were coming closer, uniting, bonding and becoming ourselves to each other. After posing for pics, and a relaxed breakfast, we started for Joshimath. 

Trail, enroute

At Joshimath, we have had already arranged for the Kuari Pass trek through a local trek operator, a day before. Per day per person Rs. 1000, which we duly agreed to. For next 3 days, our home will be the beautiful bugyals and small trails of Kuari Pass. An easy trek, Kuari Pass can be done in 3 days depending upon from which place you want to start your trek. Lord Curzon's trail is the longest route that starts with Ghat and ends at Tapovan. We preferred to do it via Auli-Goson-Tali-Khulara-Kuari to save time. Beautiful trail, blue skies, with Himalayan ranges in our sight; it was an experience I was certainly dying for. We started our trek from Auli, after a hot and heartly dal-chawal meal at GMVN. Our destination was Gorson top for the night halt. It was about 3 pm when we started our trek. We reached the campsite about 5 pm amidst laughters and leg pulling. We had a brief halt at Padiyar Devta, the place from where a little distance upwards we had to camp. Our guide Beeru announced call for tea soon after.
            

Sanjay, tired. 

Me, Yash and Prem decided to take a stroll and after the tea session, we started to climb to the top. Nanda Devi East was visible. Among others were Haathi-Ghora, Mana Parvat, Neelkanth and a whole ranges of unknown glaciers - unknown at least to me. The view was like- sun spreading slowly, stretching itself like a sea on to the glacial snow white tip of the Nanda Devi. The moment was special. It was about two lovers who promised to meet again - the mountain like a Romeo shall wait for his love, Juliet, to shine again the next day. It defines the parting ways with a hope to meet again. 

Pangarchula top is visible

O' Soul,  the greatly God,

My sin is you, penance is you,

I long for you, I stand for you...

...and in my prejudice, I ignore all

to embrace you

The highest ridge of the top

With sunset, the warmth, started to decline and the rise of droplets from the sky started to tap. By now, we were back to our camps. I saw Ranjan and Hukum, working hard over the small stove, trying to cook, the chicken. It will be ready in few minutes for serve said Hukum. The mention of 'few minutes' in his tone looked satisfying since each one of us were hungry. And we three were dying, since we missed the soup to compose the above-said poem. Along with Yash and Prem, I begin to bring the woods to light the fire. Soon Sandeep and Abhishek also came in to help. Yash made many attempts to light up the woods drenched in the mositure and the mistness. Prem also occasionally attempted to blow the woods to light up the fire to help Yash. Sandeep remarked "tum kuch kar lo ye aag nahi jalegi". It turned out to be like that. Little fire that we could blow up was almost of no use. It gave no warmth. We wasted our efforts and some 2 ltr of kerosene as well. So we retired to our camps. How we wished if we all could be accommodated into just one single tent. And, here we are 4 people each in 3 tents. That's how the life is - with and without. The chicken was served in each tent. It tasted good with tangy curd flavor. When it comes to cooking - I know nothing beats Hukum. Ranjan is our next in command. A round of drinks were started in each tent. I was placed with Ranjan and Sanjay. Another group was - Prem, Abhishek and Rajeev Ji and the last one had - Hukum, Yash and Sandy. 

                                                                                       After a couple of Vodka pegs with Ranjan, Sanjay complained of fever. Abhishek also felt uneasy since he gulped two pegs of Vodka. I had one large peg of rum as life saver from the cold outside. Gorson was colder than I thought. Soon after, Abhishek vomitted. And, we came out of the tent, again around the dying fire in group. The much hyped talk was about Rajeev Ji and Sandeep - who asked everyone to vacate the tent to discuss something they labelled as - private. The food was served. And the day was called 'over'.

In our tents, everything was there except the sleep - the comfort of bed was required to get that much needed sleep. And, the first time sleeping bag users complained 'lack of sleepness'. Sanjay was shivering and we had to made him wear jacket. After sometime he felt comfortable and slept for a while. 

The morning was broken. It was 6 am. Some of us were out by now. We continue our journey after the breakfast to reach the pass. Quickly, the breakfast was served - bread, omelette, tea, coffee and our lunches were being packed. About 8 am, we left Gorson for Pass. This was going to be the most challenging day. We started to walk upwards toward the top, where me, Yash and Prem were last evening. The trail was clear - paved well through the bugyal. We were once again face to face with the mountains - walking along. Beeru made our arrangements for drinking water. And everybody reached Tali almost at the same time. Tali was way down, after crossing the Gorson Top, the path led into the forest again. It was a sight to spend some time. Beeru called it 'lunch time' here.

Hunger was hovering around everyone but the lunch was with the porters packed neatly into separate poly-packs. They were supposed to be carried by us but we decided not to carry it. Now, we were realizing the mistake we did. After a brief wait, Beeru decided to go and check out the situation. He was right in his assessment. Since the trail at descending side is steeper, the mules might have find it hard to cross it. The trail was thin at few places in between the stretch till Tali.

From Pass

Another round of gossips initiated as we awaited for mules to comeback. But they were nowhere near. Each one of us was exhausted. The environment once again glowed in our laughter - it echoed without itch. Beeru was back and so were our ammunition - to keep us going. Hukum declared he wont go to Pass and instead go with porters to our campsite Khulara. Yash, out of the ignorance, ate some plant roots thinking of Bear Grylls of Man versus Wild, and became victim of dehydration. On pretext of helping him, Prem, who was also exhausted by now, volunteered to accompany him. Sanjay was also looking for an escape but was dual-minded. Maybe he would be thinking about office - what if people would know that he didn't completed the Pass. He knew I would tell everyone that he didn't go. But I tried to assure him and asked - go, if you are actually comfortable or else go with Hukum to Khulara and rest. I knew he was struggling inside - fighting with fever and thinking of criticism.
     

By 1 pm we started walking again. Its now steep upward climb from here. The trail further narrowed. The rocky pavement soon begin. Rajeev Ji with amazing display of stamina was in the front - leading the group along with Beeru who was guiding us. I was at the tail's end - to help push Sanjay and look after him. Afterall he wasn't well. Sanjay gets easily agitated. He was fighting every moment to climb upwards. Ranjan was just before him. At one point of time he was also struggling but he was fine, somehow managing himself. The truth about an upward climb or trekking is that some people think that others are comfortable climbing while they are not. But the fact is, each one of the climbers are fighting within themselves. Its about mental will power - some have it strong while some give it up easily. I am glad that here nobody gave up. It was first time for both - so I can understand the feeling they were going through. 

from Dhak

At last the flag appeared. The top was visible. Beeru said, we have reached. This was about 4:40 pm around. The wind was piercing our body. Leaving me and Sanjay, each one of us started to climb down. Sanjay preferred to rest and I was busy clicking photographs. In the front was Panagarchula top, the rocks and stones all over it. It looked like a black mountain difficult to climb due to big boulders. To its left was Ronti Saddle, and extreme left were Dronagiri and Nanda Devi, by now, engulfed into the clouds. To my right and down-side was silver birch forest, shining. But the wind had made it hard for us to stand there now, making it miserable for us to stationed there. And we started to make our way back to Khulara. All downwards - the Khulara campsite was a plateau - but the steep downward climb was knee stressing. I think it was shortcut that Beeru made us do since we had time crunch. Finally, we reached Khulara and the Sun said goodbye. 

Vishnu Gad, coming from Tapovan

It was good thatYash and Prem took effort to light up the fire. It was glowing - truly a fire for a perfect campfire. We had tea, a round of soup then followed. It was better than the dampening cold of Gorson. But I had my muffler wrapped around my head and ears - the wind at the top gave me this headache, I told myself. Prem vacated his seat for me to warm up my bones beside the fire. It soothed my soul - his kindness and the lovely fire. We did not spend much time at the campfire, instead we chose to rest in our tents. Afterall we had walked some 16 kms today. Then came the same old situation - 3 tents, 3 groups, a round of Rum and sleepless night in the sack. The only feeling that kept us satisfied is reminding ourselves we made it to the top. With that grand feeling, we retired to sleep and wake up in our minds, eyes closed. 

All this while, I was thinking- once strangers, today we stand here like brothers. And this feeling came back again at the same place where this affair was started - ISBT, Delhi. Though, a winter trek in December is being planned by the group now but I don't know now if this same group will ever be able to unite again for another trek or not. All I can say however is that some of us have got friends for lives. And that's not anymore a happenstance.

(c) Himanshu
www.flickr.com/myth_drinker

Shiva, Spirituality and Sumeru / Kedarnath

O' ruler of Kedar, the Lord supreme

I come to you for thy blessings,

For the sins I have commit, for the penance I seek.

For the eternal beauty of thyself and the creation,

I bow my head and seek refuge in your shrine,

May the light of your glory bathe me,

Let the mountains standing say it,

Blessed is your abode,

Blessed are the feets for they bring me to you,

Now that I have left,

but I never have left truely,
Call my name again O' Lord,

And make me bow to you again.

The word 'Kedarnath' through search on Google shows about 1,590,000 results. For the ample info that is available on Internet, I planned to only upload selective pics that I have taken during my journey.

My experience, I have summed up already through the Dedication above. However, the spiritual experience is unique and can not be summed up in words, and depends person to person. Try to get one for yourself.

Garud-Chatti and Kedar Parvat

Kedar-Dome

Way to The Shrine of Kedarnath

Massif of Sumeru

View from Ram Bada

Bells at Bhairav Temple - 1kms from the Shrine

Bhairav Devta

Itinerary followed:

Delhi - Guptkashi - Gaurikund (on eve of Dusshera 2011)

Gaurikund (evening 4 pm, raining) - Ram Bada (7 Kms) Night halt @ Kali Kamli Dharamshala

Ram Bada - Kedarnath Shrine (7 kms) Night halt @ GMVN

Kedarnath - Gaurikund. Took Holy Dip in the Kund. Gaurikund - Guptkashi (30 kms) by Jeep. Guptkashi - Rudraparyag (70 kms) by Bus. Night Halt.

Jeep to Rishikesh at 6:30 am. 11 am bus to Delhi. Reach by 7 pm.

Himanshu

For more pics, kindly visit: www.flickr.com/myth_drinker

The Immortal Tulips / Buda Madhmaheshwar

This year has been fortunate and very kind to me. I have had good dose of hiking in the mountains. But I aspire more. Madhmaheshwar (2750 mtrs.) is long due, and its been on my list from quite sometime. The feeling grew more than ever after going through Bhavik Thaker's flickr pics of the place. I was completely mesmerized with the pic that has fog all over the place and clouds floating in the valley and glaciers in the backdrop shining all-white. It reminded me of the Rudranath trek that we did in August 2008.

Imagination started to catch up fast. Mountains. Glaciers. Greener than green forest. Swollen water-falls. And, gushing Madhu Ganga. Picture after picture. And the day was set. 15th July night. We left Delhi late around 1 a.m from ISBT Kasmere Gate. Me, Rajeev Ji, Gagan, Sanjeev & Gaurav. The bus-ride between Delhi to Haridwar was smooth. I managed to get some sleep though in pieces. We changed bus at Haridwar. Haridwar-Rishikesh stretch was a complete misery. It rained hard and bus was in worst health, with water oozing from everywhere. A couple of foreigners onboard were excited looking at the real India.

From Rishikesh, we booked a cab to Ukhimath for Rs. 3000. Then from here boarded G.M.O.U bus for Uniyana at about 4:30. Due to the cracked road, the bus had to stop before Uniyana and a km long steep trek awaited us to climb. We reached Uniyana at 6:30 p.m. And halted for the night, retired to sleep after a spicy hot meal. It was still pouring, though slow. Next day, 6:30 am, we started our trek. At places, there were waterfalls on the road. Big enough for us to think how to cross them without water getting into our shoes.

We reached Ransi around 9 a.m chit-chatting and walking slowly, covering merely 3 kms. At Rakeshwari Devi temple we paid our homage. And took our breakfast. We resumed our journey again to reach Gaundhar that was only 6 kms away. It was all-down and passed through the forest on serpent-trail trek that must had some 8-10 bends. It was here the rain grew heavy and drenched us all. We soaked all of it happily. Soon clouds floating over the valley, and gushing of Madhu Ganga down below could be heard. Fragrance of Earth mixed with mist and cool wind could be felt. The air dived into my lungs through a long breath.

We continued walking, and reached here around 12 p.m very easily at our moderate pace. It is here we ate our lunch. What a hearty meal it was! Hot and light, with lots of ghee over it. It was a traditional Garhwali dish that was soft greenish fluid just like palak. I was the first one to eat, in the kitchen besides the fire. The owner, Bharat Panwar offered to make some dal and sabzi for others on the pretext that he had made that traditional food for themselves so some taste-buds might not approve such food.

Everybody ate heartful except Gagan who is choosy in what he eats. And journey once again resumed at about 2 p.m. 2 kms after Gaundhar was the bridge that leads you to Bantoli. From here the actual trek starts. And we found ourselves getting to the other side of the hill. 9 kms- all climb but beautiful valley-side that opens up but only at the temple which is a plateau. Thick fog engulfed us but the downpour looked refreshing. We maintained our pace and tried to minimise breaks. And we reached Khachrakhal where we sipped upon piping hot tea at a hut-shop. It was raining heavily.

Then came after another 3-4 kms the place called Nanu. Another tea break, we had, chitchatting. Now that the valley has started to broaden but still supressed with the dense forest. But it gave us clear glimpse of the mountain glaciers to our right, north-face. It was like breathing got easy. Soon the rain had stopped. We reached another spot called Maikhamba after walking another 3kms. From here the distance was 3 kms to the temple but the forest grew wilder. The time was 6:00 pm almost and we were worried to reach the temple before sun sets and night stretches itself.

The sunset looked stunning. Molten gold shining over the peaks. Sweet breeze over touching our wet hairs. And occassionly I would shiver with the chill. We were wet and tired by now. The walk that was once pleasant till Gaundhar, now suddenly started to appear monstrous. The path always somehow seem to have yet another bend. And the bends kept on turning us and climb got steeper. We were now kind of fed up with walking. And wondering, if we would be able to make it to the temple today.

Gagan offered some toffees that really saved us from that sinking feeling. But the fear of the dark loomed. A very thin ray of the Sun that is too fainting slowing and the endless jungle that offered bends and bends every now and then, of course not without hiccups. We could hear the voice of our breathing. The last stretch was like - a road that never ends. And we were like - a rider who remains hopeful to see his destination at the very next bend. But in our case, the enthusiasm had died by now and hopes were getting feeble with every step.

Before this last ray of the sun could disappear and before the moon winks at us and takes up the charge for the night; we heard the temple bells. Overheard it once again, and then once again. I could hear the voice over the loudspeaker praising chants of Lord Shiva. Enough for us to charge our legs. And the sound of the loudspeaker echoed once again. Temple was merely at the distance of 300 mtrs now. We rushed to attend the evening ritual - arti - that has started. A quick wash at the tap next to the temple - in the icy cold water that sent shivers to the spine. Inside temple, were few people. An elderly couple, who passed before us. And some locals who are stationed at the temple itself, including the young South-Indian priest. It was damp inside the temple, infact overall the place was cold and damp. I realised this sitting over a cots-wool mat observing the temple from inside. In the sanctum sanatorium, only the priest and his aide could enter. Slowly and steady, i found myself lost in the sweet aroma of dhoop and the chants dedicated to the lord Shiva. Next moment I was crying thinking that Lord took 2 years to invite me to His abode, His holy shrine named Madhmaheshwar, despite my best efforts.

My urge slowly and steadily came down, after a while and I felt at ease. Priest offered us all prasad and the ceremony came to an end. We took refuge for the night in the mandir samiti's dharamshala and didn't care to negotiate with others who were offering more cheaper and better options that that. Afterall we all were dead tired.

Next morning, we started early to visit Buda Madhmaheshwar to see Chaukhamba some 2.5 kms trek though a bit steep. It was a plateau - a big ground with two small kunds housed by rainwater.

There was also an ancient small temple made up of stones of Shiva, and at some distance to its right-side another small temple of Bhairava. We spent some good 2 hours here clicking pictures, catching reflection of peaks in the water, but above all to it, trying to look through the clouds the mount of Chaukhamba. That is what we were there for. On a clear sky day, one could see mighty Chaukhamba and the town of Guptkashi from here. For us in that sense it was not a lucky moment. Because Chaukhamba never unveiled itself. We could just manage to get a glimpse of it with our camera ready and hooked onto it. It mostly remained wrapped well in the layers of thick clouds over its mount. That was heart-sinking, but nothing could be done about it. It was getting cloudy and slowly drops from heaven started to pour down. This was the time we knew we should step down. But it never rained, just the tiny drops scaring you every

now and then. I was completely lost into the beauty of the place. Greenfields. Open skies. Glaciers. Clouds. And a small beautiful temple that is often worshiped. I am sure God must have loved it here. God must have selected this place carefully and so it deserves to be holy.

Chaukhamba, a glimpse that I could capture. But visibility was quite poor and waiting for it to show up - the chance was almost negligible. We started to come back with first few drops on our head. We paid our homage to Shetrapal Devta whose small temple is just 200 mtrs away from Madhmaheshwar shirne. It is on the route from the temple leads to Nandikund, via Pandu Sera famous for bugyals.

We came back to the temple. While on our way back I was delighted to see many tiny colorful flowers on the carpet of the meadows everywhere, mainly purple, maroon and yellow. I have seen them before and everytime I have seen them, I have liked them. These were like thoughts, floating around everywhere, in every sight, in every turn, on every bend, on every trail. Yet they won't be the main thing that we would want to see. Not the main thing or the reason - why you are here. Yet not the one of the things that gets noticed every now and then or discussed with peers. No one does that, and tulips don't complain. They stay where they were, they die where they were and they re-born where they were.

One after another, many small flowers different colors, different shapes yet not a line that describes them and not a word that glorifies them. Not in this blog, not anywhere that I have sinked my eyes into. Good things in life are such, often un-noticed. Now that I've come back - its not the Chaukhamba, Clouds, Mountains, Rain or for that matter the temple, but those tulips that continue to live inside me, dominate my mind all the time. Tulips are your part of good life, cherish them to bloom.

(c) Himanshu

Itinenary:

15th July Night: Delhi-Rishikesh by bus. Reached by 8 A.M.

16th July: Cab to Okhimath for Rs. 3000; Bus to Uniyana. Reached by 6 p.m.

17th July: Uniyana- Ransi (3kms) - Gaundhar (6kms) - Bantoli (2kms) - Madhmaheshwar (9kms) - TOTAL 20 kms approx.

18th July: Buda Madhmaheshwar - Gaundhar.

19th July: Gaundhar-Uniyana-Ukhimath (by shared jeep). Ukhimath - Rudraprayag (by bus). Rudraprayag-Rishikesh (cab for Rs. 2200). Rishikesh at 9 pm. Boarded bus to Delhi.

20th July: Delhi@6 a.m. Office by 10 a.m.