Embrace or Conquer / The Lord Within

This morning while getting hooked onto Sadhguru's youtube channel, I came across the one polite answer to the debate whether we should embrace or conquer. Embrace means "being one" with your goal; conquer is "to fight" whether you love it or not. My thoughts begin to dwell. Do I embrace the mountains or is it merely a quest to conquer? Frankly, I still don't know the answer. Can't even guess.

Ariel View of Saari Village

White debating between Dhakuri Trek or Tungnath, I chose the later one. Although I knew Hukum will miss this winter fun, but then I was unsure if we would get snow at Dhakuri top or not. Hukum's visit is unavoidable and we as group had only 3 days in hand. Being at both the places before, I knew Dhakuri does not offer any better motivation than Tungnath. A vibrant temple, with Chaukhamba on its mount that's how it was. And I have been there twice before. But at times Chilta temple looked to me more beautiful and inspiring when I take a moment to imagine how nice was it sitting at the temple stairs, watching the view in the front and sweet breeze blowing through the hair, and the sound of hustle of the leaves. Anyway, Tungnath was mutually decided by group. What was undecided within me is - to embrace or conquer.

Temple before Deoria Taal

Kuldeep Rawat, Darshan Negi, Anuj were joining us for the first time. Kuldeep Rawat, a jovial man with glowing face in the late 30's appeared fresh and happy and rum fragrant from his mouth. I got to know Sandy and Kuldeep had a cheerful party a while ago to celebrate this togetherness. Darshan, also in his late 30's is slightly reserve but a positive man with great faith in god and humanity. Anuj is my office colleague, a light hearted man with good heart but someone who needs direction  every now and then. Rest the crew was same - Ranjan, the loudest man on Earth; Sanjay, the live show (post his drinking); Sandy, the drinking machine, Yash, the soluble sugar (gels with everyone); Abhishek, the inquisitive mind with tongue for coffee; Prem, the man "always on fire" and blackberry. 

R to L Ranjan, Abhishek, Anuj, Sandy, Darshan, Sanjay, Kuldeep, Yash & Prem

The Guptkashi bus dropped us at Ghat at 10 a.m around, comfortably. The hired jeep took us to Ukhimath GMVN, our destination for the day. After quickly refreshing up, we decided to have quick meal and then off to Deoria Taal. After all, we had full day. Ukhimath market has a feel - looks like a typical hamlet on a ridge crowded with colorful shops, loud music playing on stereo, the rambling sound of Mahindra jeeps, and  their drivers taking a smoke break, people chitchatting about economic condition of the state, or simply bathing themselves in warm sun. We had a quick but heartily lunch. The jeep continued it journey towards Sari village, the place I knew well before. A steep climb of 2 kms around from here will take us to the taal. Deoria Taal is famous of its reflection of Chaukhamba that many enthusiast photographers attempt to capture through their lens. While reaching for Deoria Taal, we saw school children coming down after their 'picnic'. About 3 p.m we also reached the spot. The mesmerizing Chakhumba showed it aura - the snow clad tips of the four-sided peaks is truly a delight to see. And the photo session began. How I wanted to sleep here in this sunshine, in the shadow of the mighty mountains overlooking the lines along the water body. But the sun was setting. 

Deoria Taal

The crew came back to their dormitory beds at GMVN Ukimath, right on their spots except some of us who went for the groceries for the trek next day to the temple of the lord Tungnath ji. Soon after the happy times began. Kuldeep bhai inaugurated the evening lamp session of "somras" - very much required to negotiate with the heat of the day. Darshan bhai was still silent until he had few glasses going inside his throat right into his passage to stomach. Sandy as usual was the bartender with his "heavy machine pegs" that he labelled as 'little little'. In now way, those pegs were little, infact, each peg was over 90 ml dose - I can confidently say that.

Negotiating the Snow enroute Tungnath temple trek

But since he do not prefer to listen 'No', so everyone included me gulped the first round. Sitting over drinks with Sandy is like a heavy weight boxing championship- you are being knocked out each moment with his 90 mls peg till you finally say - everything here is revolving, so is the leg of the chicken we brought from Ukhimath market for the evening that GMVN cook Negi and Chamola had made for us. Only Prem is able to take those punches but I bet even he is grasping for breath after a few pegs. I recall Prem also refused to accept the pegs made by Sandy soon after. As for us - the poor fellows - it doesn't matter who makes the peg - Sandy or somebody else. Anyways, we have to drink till the revolving feeling starts engulfing us in its cloud. Morning next day, we got to know Kuldeep bhai was declared as the "winner of the championship" that lasted for over four gruesome hours. The winner of the battle showed no proud-ness for this achievement but Sandy did. We made fun of him since he was over drunk and revolving on the dinner table. That was the only time I saw gap in Sandy's feeling for chicken - he could not eat. He hardly ate any.

Ganesha Temple, 500 mtrs before the emple

Enroute Tungnath Temple Trek

Next morning Kuldeep bhai gave the jars of dry fruits that he was carrying. We made pocket pouches for all. Hired jeep came to receive us. A drop to Chopta and back was agreed for Rs. 1000. After an hour's travel, covering some 30 kms we reached Dugalbitta - the snow spread carpet did not allowed jeep to go any further. That's what I wanted too - to walk. After all that's what we all are here for.

The snow started to get thick - all over the place - as we walked through the jungle patch. The sun was up too. Covering some 2.5 kms on jungle trail, we reached Chopta. The path was well charted - no possibility of confusion. By that time, all my share of dry fruits were already inside my belly. The appetite was back again and at the only open tea shop, we ordered paranthas for all. The activity took fair amount of time and realizing that we started climbing the real part of the trek - towards the temple. By the time we reached half way, each one of us grasping for breath. Sandy was leading, Yash was managing group in between, Sanjay and Ranjan following the tail clicking photographs. Kuldeep & Darshan bhai asked me second time how much more does it require walking? where is the temple? The usual answer is - a bit more and we are there. But we were only half way. It was almost 1 pm and we still not been able to reach the temple though we started from chopta after our parantha session at about 11:20 a.m. But we are not in hurry. In fact idea is to enjoy every bit of it - the white space spreading all over the area - the white snow patches, the shining high Choukhamba and the warm-hearted fellow members joking, talking, coughing and puffing.

The temple bell rang. Abhishek was murmuring something over his phone - video recording. Me and Ranjan tried looking at the Akash-kund and got ourselves ankle deep into the snow. I hate it when snow gets into your shoes and starts melting in through with the heat of the feet. In awe, I tried to tell Ranjan not to come here at akash kund, but he was close already. We reached the temple and suddenly everything was completely holy. As if we are on some pilgrimage. Only thing bothering us is now our dry throats - no water and all snow - taking us nowhere. It was there I remember to be carrying apples that we took as part of trek grocery. Half apple for each - made our day. The worth of a half apple you know when you are standing at 13,000+ feet with no water around.And then we did what you can choose to call as nasty - our classic and cult bare chest photograph - right in the snow desert, in front of the temple. It is something crazy, weird but made us all come together. The ultimate fun. The barometer of our unitedness. The celebration of togetherness - does not matter if we were embracing it or conquering it. And to this day even the quest continues. 

Later that evening another round of championship was initiated and this there were all chicken legs in the pan and all over my plate. 

Plan in brief:

22nd evening: Delhi-Guptkashi bus via Rishikesh covering a distance of about 400 kms. Reached Ghat at 10 a.m. Stayed at GMVN Ukhimath. Visited Deoriataal - 2 kms trek from Saari Village. Approx 16 kms from GMVN Ukhimath. 

23rd - Tungnath Trek - 5.5 kms in total from Dugalbitta, and 3 kms from Chopta

24th - Holy dip at Rudraprayag 

25th morning - office ... no Christmas holiday for us  :(

for more info on Tungnath Click here 

(c) Himanshu

The Ultimate Destination / Badrinath

Shri Badrinath Shrine - abode of Lord Vishnu (October, 2011 - IInd Week )

The road diverts after Joshimath, one goes to Valley of Flowers and Hemkunt Shahib Gurudwara, and the other to Badri Dham

View enroute

Razor-sharp mountain heads enroute

Neelkanth

Shrine of Lord Badrinath Ji

Alaknanda, flowing at Badrinath

approaching Mana village

Neelkanth (from Auli)

Nanda Devi Peak (from Auli)

Auli Panarama - view of Himalaya

View from Suraithota, on Tapovan - Malari road

Dhauliganga Project enroute Malari

BRO - at work to make highway road swift

from Suraithota bridge

Dhauliganga Valley

Photo blog: www.flickr.com/myth_drinker Copyright Protected Under Creative Commons.

Shiva, Spirituality and Sumeru / Kedarnath

O' ruler of Kedar, the Lord supreme

I come to you for thy blessings,

For the sins I have commit, for the penance I seek.

For the eternal beauty of thyself and the creation,

I bow my head and seek refuge in your shrine,

May the light of your glory bathe me,

Let the mountains standing say it,

Blessed is your abode,

Blessed are the feets for they bring me to you,

Now that I have left,

but I never have left truely,
Call my name again O' Lord,

And make me bow to you again.

The word 'Kedarnath' through search on Google shows about 1,590,000 results. For the ample info that is available on Internet, I planned to only upload selective pics that I have taken during my journey.

My experience, I have summed up already through the Dedication above. However, the spiritual experience is unique and can not be summed up in words, and depends person to person. Try to get one for yourself.

Garud-Chatti and Kedar Parvat

Kedar-Dome

Way to The Shrine of Kedarnath

Massif of Sumeru

View from Ram Bada

Bells at Bhairav Temple - 1kms from the Shrine

Bhairav Devta

Itinerary followed:

Delhi - Guptkashi - Gaurikund (on eve of Dusshera 2011)

Gaurikund (evening 4 pm, raining) - Ram Bada (7 Kms) Night halt @ Kali Kamli Dharamshala

Ram Bada - Kedarnath Shrine (7 kms) Night halt @ GMVN

Kedarnath - Gaurikund. Took Holy Dip in the Kund. Gaurikund - Guptkashi (30 kms) by Jeep. Guptkashi - Rudraparyag (70 kms) by Bus. Night Halt.

Jeep to Rishikesh at 6:30 am. 11 am bus to Delhi. Reach by 7 pm.

Himanshu

For more pics, kindly visit: www.flickr.com/myth_drinker

The Immortal Tulips / Buda Madhmaheshwar

This year has been fortunate and very kind to me. I have had good dose of hiking in the mountains. But I aspire more. Madhmaheshwar (2750 mtrs.) is long due, and its been on my list from quite sometime. The feeling grew more than ever after going through Bhavik Thaker's flickr pics of the place. I was completely mesmerized with the pic that has fog all over the place and clouds floating in the valley and glaciers in the backdrop shining all-white. It reminded me of the Rudranath trek that we did in August 2008.

Imagination started to catch up fast. Mountains. Glaciers. Greener than green forest. Swollen water-falls. And, gushing Madhu Ganga. Picture after picture. And the day was set. 15th July night. We left Delhi late around 1 a.m from ISBT Kasmere Gate. Me, Rajeev Ji, Gagan, Sanjeev & Gaurav. The bus-ride between Delhi to Haridwar was smooth. I managed to get some sleep though in pieces. We changed bus at Haridwar. Haridwar-Rishikesh stretch was a complete misery. It rained hard and bus was in worst health, with water oozing from everywhere. A couple of foreigners onboard were excited looking at the real India.

From Rishikesh, we booked a cab to Ukhimath for Rs. 3000. Then from here boarded G.M.O.U bus for Uniyana at about 4:30. Due to the cracked road, the bus had to stop before Uniyana and a km long steep trek awaited us to climb. We reached Uniyana at 6:30 p.m. And halted for the night, retired to sleep after a spicy hot meal. It was still pouring, though slow. Next day, 6:30 am, we started our trek. At places, there were waterfalls on the road. Big enough for us to think how to cross them without water getting into our shoes.

We reached Ransi around 9 a.m chit-chatting and walking slowly, covering merely 3 kms. At Rakeshwari Devi temple we paid our homage. And took our breakfast. We resumed our journey again to reach Gaundhar that was only 6 kms away. It was all-down and passed through the forest on serpent-trail trek that must had some 8-10 bends. It was here the rain grew heavy and drenched us all. We soaked all of it happily. Soon clouds floating over the valley, and gushing of Madhu Ganga down below could be heard. Fragrance of Earth mixed with mist and cool wind could be felt. The air dived into my lungs through a long breath.

We continued walking, and reached here around 12 p.m very easily at our moderate pace. It is here we ate our lunch. What a hearty meal it was! Hot and light, with lots of ghee over it. It was a traditional Garhwali dish that was soft greenish fluid just like palak. I was the first one to eat, in the kitchen besides the fire. The owner, Bharat Panwar offered to make some dal and sabzi for others on the pretext that he had made that traditional food for themselves so some taste-buds might not approve such food.

Everybody ate heartful except Gagan who is choosy in what he eats. And journey once again resumed at about 2 p.m. 2 kms after Gaundhar was the bridge that leads you to Bantoli. From here the actual trek starts. And we found ourselves getting to the other side of the hill. 9 kms- all climb but beautiful valley-side that opens up but only at the temple which is a plateau. Thick fog engulfed us but the downpour looked refreshing. We maintained our pace and tried to minimise breaks. And we reached Khachrakhal where we sipped upon piping hot tea at a hut-shop. It was raining heavily.

Then came after another 3-4 kms the place called Nanu. Another tea break, we had, chitchatting. Now that the valley has started to broaden but still supressed with the dense forest. But it gave us clear glimpse of the mountain glaciers to our right, north-face. It was like breathing got easy. Soon the rain had stopped. We reached another spot called Maikhamba after walking another 3kms. From here the distance was 3 kms to the temple but the forest grew wilder. The time was 6:00 pm almost and we were worried to reach the temple before sun sets and night stretches itself.

The sunset looked stunning. Molten gold shining over the peaks. Sweet breeze over touching our wet hairs. And occassionly I would shiver with the chill. We were wet and tired by now. The walk that was once pleasant till Gaundhar, now suddenly started to appear monstrous. The path always somehow seem to have yet another bend. And the bends kept on turning us and climb got steeper. We were now kind of fed up with walking. And wondering, if we would be able to make it to the temple today.

Gagan offered some toffees that really saved us from that sinking feeling. But the fear of the dark loomed. A very thin ray of the Sun that is too fainting slowing and the endless jungle that offered bends and bends every now and then, of course not without hiccups. We could hear the voice of our breathing. The last stretch was like - a road that never ends. And we were like - a rider who remains hopeful to see his destination at the very next bend. But in our case, the enthusiasm had died by now and hopes were getting feeble with every step.

Before this last ray of the sun could disappear and before the moon winks at us and takes up the charge for the night; we heard the temple bells. Overheard it once again, and then once again. I could hear the voice over the loudspeaker praising chants of Lord Shiva. Enough for us to charge our legs. And the sound of the loudspeaker echoed once again. Temple was merely at the distance of 300 mtrs now. We rushed to attend the evening ritual - arti - that has started. A quick wash at the tap next to the temple - in the icy cold water that sent shivers to the spine. Inside temple, were few people. An elderly couple, who passed before us. And some locals who are stationed at the temple itself, including the young South-Indian priest. It was damp inside the temple, infact overall the place was cold and damp. I realised this sitting over a cots-wool mat observing the temple from inside. In the sanctum sanatorium, only the priest and his aide could enter. Slowly and steady, i found myself lost in the sweet aroma of dhoop and the chants dedicated to the lord Shiva. Next moment I was crying thinking that Lord took 2 years to invite me to His abode, His holy shrine named Madhmaheshwar, despite my best efforts.

My urge slowly and steadily came down, after a while and I felt at ease. Priest offered us all prasad and the ceremony came to an end. We took refuge for the night in the mandir samiti's dharamshala and didn't care to negotiate with others who were offering more cheaper and better options that that. Afterall we all were dead tired.

Next morning, we started early to visit Buda Madhmaheshwar to see Chaukhamba some 2.5 kms trek though a bit steep. It was a plateau - a big ground with two small kunds housed by rainwater.

There was also an ancient small temple made up of stones of Shiva, and at some distance to its right-side another small temple of Bhairava. We spent some good 2 hours here clicking pictures, catching reflection of peaks in the water, but above all to it, trying to look through the clouds the mount of Chaukhamba. That is what we were there for. On a clear sky day, one could see mighty Chaukhamba and the town of Guptkashi from here. For us in that sense it was not a lucky moment. Because Chaukhamba never unveiled itself. We could just manage to get a glimpse of it with our camera ready and hooked onto it. It mostly remained wrapped well in the layers of thick clouds over its mount. That was heart-sinking, but nothing could be done about it. It was getting cloudy and slowly drops from heaven started to pour down. This was the time we knew we should step down. But it never rained, just the tiny drops scaring you every

now and then. I was completely lost into the beauty of the place. Greenfields. Open skies. Glaciers. Clouds. And a small beautiful temple that is often worshiped. I am sure God must have loved it here. God must have selected this place carefully and so it deserves to be holy.

Chaukhamba, a glimpse that I could capture. But visibility was quite poor and waiting for it to show up - the chance was almost negligible. We started to come back with first few drops on our head. We paid our homage to Shetrapal Devta whose small temple is just 200 mtrs away from Madhmaheshwar shirne. It is on the route from the temple leads to Nandikund, via Pandu Sera famous for bugyals.

We came back to the temple. While on our way back I was delighted to see many tiny colorful flowers on the carpet of the meadows everywhere, mainly purple, maroon and yellow. I have seen them before and everytime I have seen them, I have liked them. These were like thoughts, floating around everywhere, in every sight, in every turn, on every bend, on every trail. Yet they won't be the main thing that we would want to see. Not the main thing or the reason - why you are here. Yet not the one of the things that gets noticed every now and then or discussed with peers. No one does that, and tulips don't complain. They stay where they were, they die where they were and they re-born where they were.

One after another, many small flowers different colors, different shapes yet not a line that describes them and not a word that glorifies them. Not in this blog, not anywhere that I have sinked my eyes into. Good things in life are such, often un-noticed. Now that I've come back - its not the Chaukhamba, Clouds, Mountains, Rain or for that matter the temple, but those tulips that continue to live inside me, dominate my mind all the time. Tulips are your part of good life, cherish them to bloom.

(c) Himanshu

Itinenary:

15th July Night: Delhi-Rishikesh by bus. Reached by 8 A.M.

16th July: Cab to Okhimath for Rs. 3000; Bus to Uniyana. Reached by 6 p.m.

17th July: Uniyana- Ransi (3kms) - Gaundhar (6kms) - Bantoli (2kms) - Madhmaheshwar (9kms) - TOTAL 20 kms approx.

18th July: Buda Madhmaheshwar - Gaundhar.

19th July: Gaundhar-Uniyana-Ukhimath (by shared jeep). Ukhimath - Rudraprayag (by bus). Rudraprayag-Rishikesh (cab for Rs. 2200). Rishikesh at 9 pm. Boarded bus to Delhi.

20th July: Delhi@6 a.m. Office by 10 a.m.

The Divine Yumanotri Experience/ In the Voidness

So often I have wondered - who am I? The one I am or the one I want to be. The one I am is materialistic and the one I want to be is a self-less. And there is a gap like exists everywhere. Sometimes big and at times looking small and you feel just close to becoming what you want to be. Self-less and self-contained – so what if at least for a while. And I started to plan a refuge out of this void-ness. I prefer calling it void-ness for my own reasons. Void because it is not contentment, void because it is temporary and void because it is unnatural. And that is how my quest led me to Yumanotri.

My plan is ready. Friday is Deepawali, a Saturday off and then Sunday will give me 3 days to visit Yumnotri. Arun will wait for me at Dehradun railway station on Friday early morning. I asked Saurabh for his take about the trip. I was not sure he’ll be able to come since its deepawali and being only son of his parents he might have to be stay back. My parents never have objected to my going to hills at any point of time. I can recall in 2006 I was in Gangotri on Deepawali which was quite an experience – to see the snow flakes showering over the devotees during the Arti in the temple. This time too I am hoping an experience that would last for a lifetime.

Saurabh surprised me when he said he’ll be coming along with me, and we left straight from our office on Thursday evening, taking metro service to ISBT, to catch bus to Dehrdun. We both have idea about the rush a day before Deepawali but seeing long queues and very few buses, we anticipated that it is going to be tough. I asked the conductor of the bus full packed inside, for a place for two to which he clearly rejected, looking at few other people who were quite much looking for the same opportunity. And the bus roared and moved a little – as if leaving.

With the bus, we too moved and Saurabh pleaded – “we are going to Yumanotri for Deepawali” and need to reach Dehradun before 5 a.m. Both conductor–driver looked at our sacks on our backs, and after a brief silence, conductor said – I have just one seat left.

Next moment, we both were inside the bus – me sitting over the bonnet of the bus while Saurabh on that one seat. The bus moved and my conversations with the duo started in no time. Both were pahari and since we said we are going to Yumnotri, they accommodated us in the bus – maybe thinking that we have a long way to go or fearing that they must not interfere with our pilgrimage. Conductor boasted about his honesty and how helpful he has been to different people at various times citing examples. But soon after he picked up three more people from Ghaziabad border, and there was hardly any space left now inside the diver’s cabin. I knew he is en-cashing on the opportunity that Deepawali rush has brought in. But why this hypocrisy, that I could not understand.

Dehradun at 3:30 a.m was colder than I thought and we both had brought our sweaters out.

I quickly called Arun to know where he is. He was sleeping inside the ‘Barkot’ bus that we have to take. The bus will leave at 5:30 a.m. and looking at the time we have to spare we decided to take tea and buns at the road-side vendor just opposite to the old bus station. Then we strayed ourselves here and there. And at sharp 5:30 bus started for Barkot. We both have been on this route before till Naugaon from where Badkot goes uphill and to Purola goes straight.

Janakichatti

We reached Badkot around 10:40 and started to lookout for bus or jeep to Jaankichatti. Saurabh purchased some candles, and crackers to celebrate Deepawali at the temple in our own style. My worry was rather about reaching Jaankichatti. No bus. Jeep was already full, and I started again to ask the jeep owner. Finally, we managed to get one seat inside. While Arun and Saurabh adjusted themselves on the roof-top with fellow passengers, I scrambled myself inside.

Later from Hanumanchatti, I also joined my companions over the rooftop of the jeep. Thrilled.

After reaching Jaankichatti me and Saurabh filled our bellies quickly, while Arun was fasting. We then started to move slowly towards the temple, chit-chatting. It was bright sunny day of noon. The 5 km cemented path leading to Yumnotri temple is an easy climb and walk is more pleasant then we thought. Looking at the flowing Yamuna, I suggested taking a dip. Chilled, the water was, and we hurriedly took our 3 dips in the name of whatever Gods our mind could think of.

Saurabh & Arun Enjoying Dip in Yamuna

Indeed it was refreshing but it made us lazy. The feeling was like – my body wants to sleep and my mind instructing it to move on. I can feel my eyes closing every now and then. After all we have not slept last night and have been traveling for last 16 hours.

We reached the temple around 5:40 p.m – chatting, walking, clicking photographs but did not take any break to rest. I was astonished to see the kund – an average sized pool of hot water.

Actually the sulphur water, out from the, ground. We submerged ourselves into it and for half an hour we were relaxing in the name of hot water bath. Saurabh, started to complain of fainting feeling. I was feeling that too. But looking at Saurabh I got nervous. He put on his clothes back and spread himself over the steps of the kund. And then a miracle. Just when the temple bell started to ring, he got up and said, Sir! Let’s go. And the chanting of Arti started on the mic, in mild soothing tone.

Bhairav Temple Enroute

We were some 10 people sitting with our folded hands in the temple premise offering our homage to the Goddess Yamuna. I was more than delighted to have made it to the temple especially for the Deepawali. And then I found myself lost in the chants and prayers.

The Goddess Yamuna’s 3 idols – in black stone to the left; silver, in the middle; and the marble made, on the right appeared to have same aggressive looks as if denoting her relation to the God of Death - Yamaraj.

Here is the version of story narrated by one of the temple priests. Jai Muni, the sage, worshipped mother Yamuna like King Bhagirath did at Gangotri. However Bhagirath did it for penance of his ancestors, sage Jai Muni did it for penance of common people. Said Jai Muni, “those you come to your darshana and worship you O’Yamuna, may they their soul go to heaven, and not sent to hell by Yamaraj, narrated the priest with chanting of sloka.

Yamuna, requested to brother Yamaraj, to fulfill the sage’s will, to which Yama agreed. Since then it is believed those who pay homage to mother Yamuna, they become free from the fear of going to hell, and their soul goes to heaven.

Well, I wonder if I fear hell or is just hungry for heaven – because you never know where you go, once you are gone. Death embraces all. The philosophy whatever is behind the mythologies like these, the heaven is where everybody wants to go.

The superior heaven outshines the evil hell in our minds and that’s what belief is. These rituals have made us special, a proud Hindu or have labeled as superstitious society. The answer is as much debatable as the question itself.

By the now the Puja is over and we started to light the candles we brought with us and placed it all over the temple compound – near the Surya kund, as well. Surya kund is where the hot water spring is worshipped and potatoes, rice are cooked to be offered as Prasad.

The next day we came down after dip in the holy kund again and reached the village Kharsali, near Jaankichatti, to visit an ancient Shani temple. The temple architecture is very old. The priest’s son took us inside the 3 storey temple made of stones, craved through the big rock-sized stones. Later priest told us that even he doesn’t know when the temple dates back to. He also tried giving his association with Yamnotri temple priests who are ‘Uniyal’ – a garhwali Brahmin caste. We sipped upon hot piping tea at his place and then set off to come down back to the modern civilization.

While coming back, I requested one young fellow passenger in Jeep to send me the song he was plying loud on his mobile. That one song made easy for me to come down back to Delhi and in my mind thinking about the time spent in the voidness. I realised the voidness is golden. I hate Delhi like it is now.

Itinerary: Delhi-Yumanotri (Total Distance: 462 Kms.)

November 4th, 2010 THU: Bus from ISBT Kashmere Gate to Dehradun @ 7 P.M, Rs. 280 per seat from Uttarakhand Roadways – Hi-tech Bus Service.

5th, FRI: Reach Dehradun @ 3:30 A.M – Tea Break – Bus to Barkot @ 5:30 A.M. Reached Barkot around 11:30 A.M (via Damta, Naugaon, approx. 130 kilometers – Rs. 165 per seat from Uttarakhand Roadways). Boarded 12:10 p.m shared Jeep service from Barkot to Jaankichatti (approx. 65 km, Rs. 60 per seat). Jaankichatti at 3:00 p.m around. After a hearty meal and dip in icy cold water of holy Yumana at Jaankichatti reached Yumanotri around 5:20 p.m covering 5kms distance on-foot. Dip in the Holy Kund. Celebrated Deepawali in the temple premise.

6th, SAT: Got up early, took a long dip in holy kund (hot water), offered our Pooja and clicked pics. Back to Jaankichatti at 11 A.M around. Visited ancient Shani temple at Kharsali. Tea at priest’s house. Started to comeback by 1 P.M. Shared jeep to Barkot. Then bus to Naugaon. Halt.

7th, SUN: Took 6:00 A.M GMOU bus to Vikasnagar. Reached around 11:30 A.M. Bus to Dehradun ISBT. Reached around 1 P.M. Finally, bus to Delhi. Reached Delhi around midnight.

© Himanshu Dutt, 2010