The Happenstance / Kuari Pass, Uttarakhand, India

The Team (L to R) Last Row: Prem, Sanjay, Yash, Sandy, Beeru
2nd Row: Abhishek, Hukum, Rajeev Ji. Front: Ranjan

Chamoli Skies

Happenstance, for some reasons it was. We plan. It rains. We plan again, it rains again. And every time it rains, it rips our dream apart of - to go to the Lord of the Mountains. Then, we planned again looking at the weather God and with our hearts praying. Soul to soul. The prayer answered, rain stopped but there were the news of devastation from several cloudbursts that happened around several places in Garhwal, precisely, in Chamoli region. It was a disappointment to hear many people got displaced and several lost lives. But life has to go on, and so goes our planning for Kuari Pass which is in the making for now over a month. Initially when I mailed the itinerary to everyone I know, the response was slow. Only confirmed person were Rajeev Ji, Hukum, Ranjan and Sanjay. Gagan opted out at the last moment, and Saurabh also could not go, Sanjeev has just changed his job so could not come, and Gaurav also did not respond back. From a group that was about some 8-10 people big has not reduced to just 5. 

Badrinath (Bus Stand) at 3 pm

Hukum confirmed me that 3 more people will be coming along with him, one of which is his cousin - Yash Rawat, Prem Rekhola and Sandeep Arya (Sandy). Another young chap who joined us was Abhishek. And as per plan, everybody met at ISBT Anand Vihar, Delhi at 7 p.m. In fact, Hukum already got our tickets blocked for Chamoli and we boarded the new lot of Uttarakhand Roadways that looked well off compared to others in the sight. But the bus will leave at 9:30. So we started to know each other. 

Ranjan and Sanjay, now 1 trek old with me, took out the Vodka and started their socializing activity soon enough.We were killing time, chatting up, trying to know each other. Yash, almost of my height, is young, jovial, a little shy and introvert sort of guy. Sandy is opposite to this nature. He gels well, smiles more frequently and obviously a over-rated social drinker. Prem has a vibrant face, glowing skin and coarse voice. He spent all his time chatting up on his mobile. I was wondering at his stamina of marathon of words. But he is overall a soft natured guy. Abhishek, I have now known for 4-5 years. I taught him during his MBA days.

Badrinath (towards GMVN)

Nanda Devi (evening view from Gorson)

He initially heisted to chat but soon became the part of the group. Ranjan is most enthusiastic person I have ever met in this life. When we were planning this trip, almost every day he calls me up or drops a message about the plan. To me it looks like, he has been infected with the disease called 'Hill-maniac' and like the one who carry this disease - he has become 'escapist' who looks for an encounter with hills, every now and then. Sanjay, is my office colleague, who is very judgmental, argumentative at times, reserved and passionate about his office work-life. He has a big heart, and carries his mixture of myth and wisdom. He is quite jolly with me and Ranjan, who is his childhood friend as well. Remained now is Rajeev Ji, who is heart of all conversations and has been known to me for 3-4 years. We did a couple of treks together. He is centre-point of all groups I have been with. He is also good at socializing, in fact better than Sandeep, as per the vital stats.   

Beeru, our guide, trying to fetch some water from a nearby stream

The bus started at the said time. And I asked Ranjan to hand me over the food packet which his mother had made and father had packed diligently. Soon after I asked for another, such was my hunger. Conversations begin soon. Rajeev Ji soon after came to his freestyle, he made a place for himself to lie down and relax just near to rear gate. We all after sometimes and about after a little chit-chatting was dozing off one by one. 

We reached Chamoli at about 10:45 a.m, took jeep to Joshimath and from there to Badrinath Ji. Enroute, Sanjay found that one of the bottle of rum cracked in his sack. His clothes drenched into the smell or what social drinkers called it as - aroma of rum. This disappointed him. 

Haath-Ghodi Parvat

Ranjan, walking up the trail

At 3 pm about we reached the Lord's abode - Badrinath. This day was special being Ganesha Chaturthi. We hired 2 rooms at GMVN, who agreed to gave us third for free to our delight - at Rs. 810 per room, it was cheap plus third for free which makes - 180 per head. It was already cloudy outside. Anytime rain might start, I said to myself. We quickly unpacked our stuff in our rooms, picked up our clothes, to take a bath in the holy kund and have Badrinath's darshan thereafter. It started to rain soon. We quickly took the dip in the kund. The water was hotter than hot. We had quick bath, and proceeded towards the temple. There was a line for aarti at the gate of the temple, though not long. Only Rajeev ji managed to have darshan, rest of us, had darshan from outside. And to be honest, nobody complained. I was happy that Lord has allowed me to comeback again this year to his abode. That very feeling made me satisfied. 

Taali

We waited for Rajeev Ji to comeback. The group was unintentionally divided into two. Ranjan, Sanjay, Me, Abhishek and Rajeev Ji and Hukum, Yash, Prem and Sandy into another. The group still needed the bonding to stick together and enjoy. Our group quickly had dinner while the other group was awaiting us for the same. Nevermind, we went out again for the supper. The food we ate was pathetic, we just managed to send something inside our stomach. After that, we sat for sometime, gossiping while some of us chose to surrender themselves to sweet sleep.   

The Trail

Next day, Prem arranged tea for everyone. After that, I decided to take a dip and have quick darshan before we proceed to Joshimath back again for Kuari Pass. Abhishek followed. And then came Ranjan and Sanjay as well. Rest of the group decided to laze and graze. The water in the kund was soothing and we enjoyed every bit of the moment. Then we had little puja performed by an elderly priest for us at the kund. We went for darshan thereafter. The temple premise was clear. There were about 7-8 people inside the temple, and we had great darshan with nearly 15 minutes inside the premise, closely looking at Bhagwan Vishnu's saligram idol in black. It was moment of truth, soul stirring, one to one with Lord. There was silence and penance both at the same place. Overjoyed, we came out of the temple to click some snaps. 

We crossed that top to reach here

The group was at its best once again. We negotiated with a Jeep driver for a drop at Mana and then back to Joshimath. All I could say, from here onward, the chemicals between us all started to gel. We were uniting while untying ourselves from our egos. The last Indian village picture at least confirms the same. As we passed through Mana village, then on Bhim-Pul (bridge), looking at gushing Saraswati, to trying our hands on ploughing to what Yash referred as, ploughing the last Indian village - in all we were coming closer, uniting, bonding and becoming ourselves to each other. After posing for pics, and a relaxed breakfast, we started for Joshimath. 

Trail, enroute

At Joshimath, we have had already arranged for the Kuari Pass trek through a local trek operator, a day before. Per day per person Rs. 1000, which we duly agreed to. For next 3 days, our home will be the beautiful bugyals and small trails of Kuari Pass. An easy trek, Kuari Pass can be done in 3 days depending upon from which place you want to start your trek. Lord Curzon's trail is the longest route that starts with Ghat and ends at Tapovan. We preferred to do it via Auli-Goson-Tali-Khulara-Kuari to save time. Beautiful trail, blue skies, with Himalayan ranges in our sight; it was an experience I was certainly dying for. We started our trek from Auli, after a hot and heartly dal-chawal meal at GMVN. Our destination was Gorson top for the night halt. It was about 3 pm when we started our trek. We reached the campsite about 5 pm amidst laughters and leg pulling. We had a brief halt at Padiyar Devta, the place from where a little distance upwards we had to camp. Our guide Beeru announced call for tea soon after.
            

Sanjay, tired. 

Me, Yash and Prem decided to take a stroll and after the tea session, we started to climb to the top. Nanda Devi East was visible. Among others were Haathi-Ghora, Mana Parvat, Neelkanth and a whole ranges of unknown glaciers - unknown at least to me. The view was like- sun spreading slowly, stretching itself like a sea on to the glacial snow white tip of the Nanda Devi. The moment was special. It was about two lovers who promised to meet again - the mountain like a Romeo shall wait for his love, Juliet, to shine again the next day. It defines the parting ways with a hope to meet again. 

Pangarchula top is visible

O' Soul,  the greatly God,

My sin is you, penance is you,

I long for you, I stand for you...

...and in my prejudice, I ignore all

to embrace you

The highest ridge of the top

With sunset, the warmth, started to decline and the rise of droplets from the sky started to tap. By now, we were back to our camps. I saw Ranjan and Hukum, working hard over the small stove, trying to cook, the chicken. It will be ready in few minutes for serve said Hukum. The mention of 'few minutes' in his tone looked satisfying since each one of us were hungry. And we three were dying, since we missed the soup to compose the above-said poem. Along with Yash and Prem, I begin to bring the woods to light the fire. Soon Sandeep and Abhishek also came in to help. Yash made many attempts to light up the woods drenched in the mositure and the mistness. Prem also occasionally attempted to blow the woods to light up the fire to help Yash. Sandeep remarked "tum kuch kar lo ye aag nahi jalegi". It turned out to be like that. Little fire that we could blow up was almost of no use. It gave no warmth. We wasted our efforts and some 2 ltr of kerosene as well. So we retired to our camps. How we wished if we all could be accommodated into just one single tent. And, here we are 4 people each in 3 tents. That's how the life is - with and without. The chicken was served in each tent. It tasted good with tangy curd flavor. When it comes to cooking - I know nothing beats Hukum. Ranjan is our next in command. A round of drinks were started in each tent. I was placed with Ranjan and Sanjay. Another group was - Prem, Abhishek and Rajeev Ji and the last one had - Hukum, Yash and Sandy. 

                                                                                       After a couple of Vodka pegs with Ranjan, Sanjay complained of fever. Abhishek also felt uneasy since he gulped two pegs of Vodka. I had one large peg of rum as life saver from the cold outside. Gorson was colder than I thought. Soon after, Abhishek vomitted. And, we came out of the tent, again around the dying fire in group. The much hyped talk was about Rajeev Ji and Sandeep - who asked everyone to vacate the tent to discuss something they labelled as - private. The food was served. And the day was called 'over'.

In our tents, everything was there except the sleep - the comfort of bed was required to get that much needed sleep. And, the first time sleeping bag users complained 'lack of sleepness'. Sanjay was shivering and we had to made him wear jacket. After sometime he felt comfortable and slept for a while. 

The morning was broken. It was 6 am. Some of us were out by now. We continue our journey after the breakfast to reach the pass. Quickly, the breakfast was served - bread, omelette, tea, coffee and our lunches were being packed. About 8 am, we left Gorson for Pass. This was going to be the most challenging day. We started to walk upwards toward the top, where me, Yash and Prem were last evening. The trail was clear - paved well through the bugyal. We were once again face to face with the mountains - walking along. Beeru made our arrangements for drinking water. And everybody reached Tali almost at the same time. Tali was way down, after crossing the Gorson Top, the path led into the forest again. It was a sight to spend some time. Beeru called it 'lunch time' here.

Hunger was hovering around everyone but the lunch was with the porters packed neatly into separate poly-packs. They were supposed to be carried by us but we decided not to carry it. Now, we were realizing the mistake we did. After a brief wait, Beeru decided to go and check out the situation. He was right in his assessment. Since the trail at descending side is steeper, the mules might have find it hard to cross it. The trail was thin at few places in between the stretch till Tali.

From Pass

Another round of gossips initiated as we awaited for mules to comeback. But they were nowhere near. Each one of us was exhausted. The environment once again glowed in our laughter - it echoed without itch. Beeru was back and so were our ammunition - to keep us going. Hukum declared he wont go to Pass and instead go with porters to our campsite Khulara. Yash, out of the ignorance, ate some plant roots thinking of Bear Grylls of Man versus Wild, and became victim of dehydration. On pretext of helping him, Prem, who was also exhausted by now, volunteered to accompany him. Sanjay was also looking for an escape but was dual-minded. Maybe he would be thinking about office - what if people would know that he didn't completed the Pass. He knew I would tell everyone that he didn't go. But I tried to assure him and asked - go, if you are actually comfortable or else go with Hukum to Khulara and rest. I knew he was struggling inside - fighting with fever and thinking of criticism.
     

By 1 pm we started walking again. Its now steep upward climb from here. The trail further narrowed. The rocky pavement soon begin. Rajeev Ji with amazing display of stamina was in the front - leading the group along with Beeru who was guiding us. I was at the tail's end - to help push Sanjay and look after him. Afterall he wasn't well. Sanjay gets easily agitated. He was fighting every moment to climb upwards. Ranjan was just before him. At one point of time he was also struggling but he was fine, somehow managing himself. The truth about an upward climb or trekking is that some people think that others are comfortable climbing while they are not. But the fact is, each one of the climbers are fighting within themselves. Its about mental will power - some have it strong while some give it up easily. I am glad that here nobody gave up. It was first time for both - so I can understand the feeling they were going through. 

from Dhak

At last the flag appeared. The top was visible. Beeru said, we have reached. This was about 4:40 pm around. The wind was piercing our body. Leaving me and Sanjay, each one of us started to climb down. Sanjay preferred to rest and I was busy clicking photographs. In the front was Panagarchula top, the rocks and stones all over it. It looked like a black mountain difficult to climb due to big boulders. To its left was Ronti Saddle, and extreme left were Dronagiri and Nanda Devi, by now, engulfed into the clouds. To my right and down-side was silver birch forest, shining. But the wind had made it hard for us to stand there now, making it miserable for us to stationed there. And we started to make our way back to Khulara. All downwards - the Khulara campsite was a plateau - but the steep downward climb was knee stressing. I think it was shortcut that Beeru made us do since we had time crunch. Finally, we reached Khulara and the Sun said goodbye. 

Vishnu Gad, coming from Tapovan

It was good thatYash and Prem took effort to light up the fire. It was glowing - truly a fire for a perfect campfire. We had tea, a round of soup then followed. It was better than the dampening cold of Gorson. But I had my muffler wrapped around my head and ears - the wind at the top gave me this headache, I told myself. Prem vacated his seat for me to warm up my bones beside the fire. It soothed my soul - his kindness and the lovely fire. We did not spend much time at the campfire, instead we chose to rest in our tents. Afterall we had walked some 16 kms today. Then came the same old situation - 3 tents, 3 groups, a round of Rum and sleepless night in the sack. The only feeling that kept us satisfied is reminding ourselves we made it to the top. With that grand feeling, we retired to sleep and wake up in our minds, eyes closed. 

All this while, I was thinking- once strangers, today we stand here like brothers. And this feeling came back again at the same place where this affair was started - ISBT, Delhi. Though, a winter trek in December is being planned by the group now but I don't know now if this same group will ever be able to unite again for another trek or not. All I can say however is that some of us have got friends for lives. And that's not anymore a happenstance.

(c) Himanshu
www.flickr.com/myth_drinker

The Thing That Was Not / The Chakrata Chapter

The problem that often surround me is whenever I have had a good trip in the Himalayas, I long for more; but whenever its a trip-in-disguise (whose chances are rare), I try to wipe it out immediately with yet another trip. But Barnala Taal, a small trek of 5 km from Barsu village in Uttarkashi district of Uttarakhand that I did in Feb '12 was rather a joyous trip by all means. Fairy snow, mighty peaks, a shy guide, children hurrying to catch up school morning prayer, and windy town of Pala, reminded me of the pictures that I often graze on the ground called 'internet'. In April, though, I took my office group to Jageshwar; it was not satisfying for me. You need like-minded fellow travellers and above all the ones who don't just travel to 'touch the place' but rather stay and 'absorb the place'. So, I started to plan. Binsar Mahadev in Pauri Garhwal region was the choice I zeroed in for a quick, weekend trip. The date was set and just when we were to leave - the things started to get all wrong. First with the cab driver (we sent him back for his unfriendly attitude and arrogance), then with bus at the ISBT (no bus to Ramnagar). At ISBT, we waited till 1 am in the morning for the bus to Ramnagar, that never came. And finally after some thinking, we decided to go to Dehradun. We just managed to get two seats at rear back of the bus, after racing along with the crowd. Me and Hukum - two of us in the bus to Dehradun, with no plan in mind. 

At 6 a.m we reached Dehradun. During our journey all through the night, i was thinking of Chakrata - it was long pending in my list. I added Ponta Shahib to it as well. I remember giving the same itinerary to Sanjay and Ranjan who were planning a trip for themselves. I called them and found that they have already started from Delhi as per their plans. With a promise to meet at Ponta Shahib; me and Hukum started looking for bus to Ponta. A Himachal Roadways bus was all set to go. It will drop us at Ponta in an hour from Dehradun which is some 56kms in distance. About 11 am we reached Gurudwara Ponta Shahib. We freshened up, paid our homage and ate langar heartly. About 5 pm arrived Sanjay and Ranjan in a car. We exchanged greetings!

Sanjay is my office colleague and Ranjan, I knew through him - we have met earlier as well when duo came to meet me at my place. Ranjan share the same passion and of same level as I had. It felt like I know Ranjan better than my own friend-cum-colleague, Sanjay - I never have seen him discussing hills or planning any travel. But he is certainly a hill enthusiast, perhaps, in the same league where me and Ranjan were. Just that he never showed or talked of it before. So our assumption about Sanjay beginning to prove wrong. The trip began soon after. They quickly had darshan. And we started our journey to Chakrata. 

Chakrata some 55 kms from here is a small hill town on a ridge with a small market. Only Indian nationals are allowed to enter into Chakrata. Its a cantonment area with special force's training ground. It offers sheer silence. And we started to look-out for a hotel. After a while we started to feel the cold shiver but by now we have had two rooms booked already. Sanjay and Ranjan brought their own stuff - frozen meat semi-cooked, beer cans in an ice-box, a lamp to cook over - which was a sheer delight to see. All that remained was - a tent - and we were ready to camp anyplace. A round of chilled beers, cooked meat snack and roti - good enough for us to keep hooked to conversations and laughs. Soon after we retired to bed. 

Morning we left early for Tiger Falls. But before that I stacked up some sweetmeat from the tea shop - so fresh it was. Tiger falls were some 18 kms through road but a 3kms trek from Chakrata. But we were a bunch of lazy bumps. In a while, we were marching down towards the falls. The roaring sound it has earned it this name. We were delighted to see the falls. Just the four of us - far away from the civilization of civil people who has nothing civil in them. We bathed here for about 2 hours - chilled water on a warm sun combo - soothed us. Sanjay, Ranjan, Hukum - gave all sort of shots to appear "in their best", and i was enjoying "the beer" making its way up in my mind. I rarely consume liquor. 

After, we were through with our adventure and island feel. I proposed to extend this trip by one more day and see Lakhamandal. Ranjan unarguably accepted but Sanjay protested with critics. It was adamant Sanjay versus three of us. Though he gave in but he had a sense of fear about his job. There was no one back-up, to look after his job and no seniors were around - so he was in a maze of confusion. The present tense was happy and nice with scenery, fun around it; while future tense was giving tensions. Anyway, he agreed. 

Lakamandal was some 70 kms from Chakrata and the road condition was awful. Nonetheless, the scenic beauty it offered were exemplary in comparison to returning route to Dehradun. We reached Lakhamandal around 6 pm. Quickly paid homage to the age-old temple of Lord Shiva. Lakhamandal is the place where conspiracy against Pandavas was hatched by Kauravas. The wax-palace was burnt with Pandavas inside, however they escaped. Shiva's temple stands here is even older than this story itself. I found solace here. 

Sanjay was red with anger, by now. He has his own mood swings. But he was right as well. No way we could make it to Mussorie or Vikasnagar now. The office tension bug was out. Usually, it happens during the night with each one of us - we find it hard to hold onto things during the nights because during the daytime, the sight-seeing keeps us busy. Probably, he was having time with himself - and troubling himself. I don't say he is right or wrong - but he was impatient to go to Delhi to attend his office work. Later, after collecting holy water from Yamuna, we made night halt at Damta. It was almost pitch dark on the highway but Damta was lightened with tourist movement going to Yumnotri. We got 2 rooms for 400 bucks and came out for dinner. Sanjay all this through didn't spoke much and not to me at least. 

Next day, he was a different man. Cool and clam, self-composed, enjoying tea and bread pakoras. I liked his this nature - switch on and switch off and then again on. He was in a great mood today - no fear. God saved us from his wrath. Ranjan whispered to me, he is like this only, and now we will take Mussorie route, the route which Sanjay was protesting last night. We giggled. 

The drive to Mussorie was like one of the great gigs - shining, swift and smooth. We reached Mussorie in a royal way. It was clearly us - in the lap of nature. Happy and blissful. 


(c) Himanshu