Into the Unknown/Kedarkantha

Kedarkantha is located in the district of Uttarkashi, however the city is some 190kms from place called Sankri (saan-kari) from where the popular trek to Har-Ki-Dun also starts (jeep goes till Taluka, then on foot trail starts Seema/Osla and Har-ki-Dun). Sankri can be reached from Dehradun via Naugaon-Purola-Mori enroute which is some 170 kms. Till Naugaon, the road moves along with Yamuna and at Mori it crosses the river Mori to move up towards Netwar and then Sankri.

The Top Visible Is KedarKantha

Sankri happens to be the last transport point officially. However hired jeeps go till Taluka which is some 11km from Sankri. Kedarkantha (3810 mtrs) is right above the village Sankri some 9kms steep trek upwards (seemed more than 11kms to me). As one moves up through the dense pine jungle amidst the plateau great Himalayan ranges especially Swargarohini (Badrinath) on the right side becomes visible alongwith Black mountain and the view of Bandarpoonch (Yumanotri) as guide was describing. Sankri

To the front one could see Himachal ranges and guide pointed his finger to the front citing some place called Chang Sheel pass which of course was not getting visible to me. All I could see a 360 degree snow view around me as I stand on a long plateau of farmland to give rest to my aching shoulders from the burden of rucksack. It was for last two times I have been canceling my trips to hills (apology to Manu, Hukum, Saurabh and Kiran for not making it to Gaumukh) due to official purposes that somehow always seem to come just before I intend to take break.
Raju (Our Guide)

And thinking about those 22 leaves I still had in my bag (this is December) and that in March they would lapse, I felt agitated and helpless once again.

Kiran called up on early Wednesday afternoon just before x’mas with his plan, but I still was not sure weather I would be able to make it with him to his dreamland. Thinking about hills was driving me mad and I decided to play a ‘serious performer’ and started toying with ideas that suits best for 2 days leave. Kiran Bhai

And, two days after (on 24th) I fell ‘serious’ ill (the plot worked fine!).

Wednesday 24th night we two met at ISBT Delhi exploring the options we have and Kiran’s idea seem perfect as imagined about a rural cold landscape. Kiran came late so I thought to gather some information from the bus driver who was cleaning the front mirror of this bus to Ponta Shahib. The driver had this flair for singing, speed and chatting which he later admitted and as I experienced (dude was driving between thick fog at 60+ speed) was contrary to other drivers with whom I have been going places.

Har-Ki-Dun Valley

We reached Vikasnagar at 5am in freezing cold. We took tea after getting down. The tea shop owner pointed that we will have to take another bus that would drop us at the place (a famous sweets shop which was some 4kms) from where the bus to Sankri would go. 6 am the bus leaves. We reached some 20 minutes before but the bus left only at 7am with handful of people. I tried to remain awake but soon dozed off. Kiran was already under the spell of sleep (he slept all the way to Dehradun). I didn’t slept much, sun was getting warm and I needed a tea. Me!

The route seemed beautiful with no big towns, no herd of people, and elevated roads with frequent hiccups. We stopped at Naugaon and enjoyed a bottle of Limca each, then another halt at Purola. This halt was for about 1 hour and people rushed into the bus. I guess not many buses go beyond Purola. At 1pm the bus started again and we reached Mori and then Netwar.

Purola

The route after Purola to Mori (50 kms/2hrs) and Netwar (25kms/1hr) was under the forest land and suddenly the civilization started to vanish away. Around 4:40 pm we reached Sankri (18kms from Netwar) and located GMVN. We got the room for 400 bucks with no electricity or hot water facility. It was freezing cold when around 7pm we came down again to market to eat where we inquired for places to visit. Its then only I came to know that Sankri is the place from where the trek to Har-Ki-Doon starts. But we didn’t had time for Har-ki-Doon and the option we were given was Kedarkantha.

Next morning we got up early. While Kiran wanted to walk down and see and picture people around, I was thinking about Kedarkantha. Finally Kiran also agreed for a 2 day trek, and we arranged for guide from the guy we spoke to last night who happens to own the Sankri Himalayan Samiti. Massif of Swargarohini

Our guide Raju was lean and thin man in his 30ties but experienced quite well. He told us about the places he has been to and foreign girlfriends that he had especially the one from Britain who always plan trip with him only. I was rather interested in something else, and said, “Can we please have some tea”! He took us to a hut nearby where we were offered black tea. The guy worked there in fields and lives all alone since he lost his way some 26 years back from Nepal and now works as care taker of fields. Polite and humble with no expressions of regret or thinking of his family (when I asked him about).
Taal along the Way!

We started again and reached a plateau – a big terrace with nothing on it. In front clearly visible were Himachal ranges. I enjoyed what I saw – snow covered and closely arranged mountains with sharp tips. And we continued walking.

Walking about some 5kms we reached a lake that was completely surrounded by thick forest. Guide lighted some fire and served us hot paranthas and tea but we were filled with too much of water and after 1 and half more we rejected to eat. Tea I have always enjoyed.

Break for the Day

We resumed walking upside slowly and after covering about 2kms we stated to see the snow flakes lying all over the field. We decided to halt and camp near to water source. The temperature was dipping and it was indeed freezing cold. We did a couple of shoots and returned back to camp on the call of Raju and begin to blow the fire to fight the cold and warm our night. Later sometimes we were served Maggi and the tea again. Despite out very best efforts we could not light the fire on the log that we had thought would keep us warm until midnight. Himachal Side of Hills

So we retire to our sleeping bags in the camp. Me and Kiran could not sleep well. It was very cold and the tent had 2 holes through which wind was blowing and hitting us hard. Raju was out by 5:30 and he fired the light to make us some tea. Soon we were also up and started to pack the tent cursing the guy who supplied us the gear.

The morning was fresh but walking on snow was getting hard. It was all up-hill way and the fresh snow was making us slip into small pits every now and then. Campfire

We also had no choice since we did not bring any gear to equip us for this undecided excursion.

Soon after Kiran said ‘No’! We were just 1km away from hill top which was clearly visible with four (actually five) stones on the top. Now that the sun was up too and wind was blowing cool, I was enjoying the feel though tired. Kiran shouted again, “I will be here only, you guys go!”

Walking in the Snow

It was getting hard for me too but certainly I didn’t want to leave it here and I followed Raju, our guide. After some 250 mtrs I gave up to. The peak was near and clearly visible were 5 pillars on it of almost equal height. It was an amazing sight which certainly could not be put into words. And I rested for a while uncomfortably though. The snow was making it hard and then the wind piercing my ears. And we both decided to come back. Morning View of Swargarohini

I recalled that it was not the first time I could not touch the point even being so near to it and suddenly I remembered that during my Gaumukh trip also we faced something similar.

Me and Manu, and the cold October end. After reaching near to Bhojbasa (some 3 kms) we decided to come back to Gangotri due to discomfort. We were without any snacks or food, not even the water bottle and the worst was wind blowing that almost had got us down.

Kedarkantha Visible

We hardly could breath properly forget walking. That day we covered some 22kms of to and fro. Indeed an unforgettable moment. A little different but same we duo experinced in Narkanda during our Hatu temple walk between the think ice.

Hard Walk

So we started to comeback from Kedarkantha but not towards Sankri. Instead we opted to climb down towards Netwar. After walking down for some 6kms we decided to take lunch. The maggi again, which I ofcourse disliked. We resumed again after tea.

We continue to walk till the sun went down. However in between we again took a brief break at a village well known to Raju. He wanted us to end the day there itself. Kiran was also keen to stay. But his purpose was to capture people and village life in his lens, while I had the forest rest-house in my mind which I had seen at Netwar along the road over a small ridge.

Along The Great Indian Himalaya

Unfortunately neither we stayed in the village (I insisted to reach Netwar) and nor went to Forest rest-house at Netwar (we thought what if we don’t find any place there to sleep). We just had quick sip of warm soothing tea. Raju took us to a nearby village just a km before Netwar market. It was his relative’s. We spent the night in comfort except the snoring of Kiran which often annoyed me but then I was too tired to notice properly.

Me & Raju, Doing Our Best

Next morning at 8 around we took the private bus to Purola and then from there Uttarakhand Roadways to Dehradun via Mussorie. At 7pm we reached Dehradun and filled our stomachs quickly. Then we took the night bus at 9pm from the Roadways bus stand. I remember I met the same guy who came with us till Vikas Nagar from Delhi. We chatted for an hour or so and then I dozed off.

Raju, Basking in the Sun in the Village

I might have fallen to sleep but in my mind was with all those people whom I met during this trip and after a while I reminded myself two words –

‘Born Again’.

© Himanshu

For pics please see www.flickr.com/myth_drinker