Lekha Top, Jakhol / Hidden New Paradise

Almost after 2-3 months have passed, and now today, I decided to write the travel account for my trip to Lekha Top in Jakhol (Uttarakhand). Was I too busy? I introspected myself and dwindled in between yes and no for quite sometime. Anyway, the fact is I am ready now with all the memories coming back again and again. All I am left with to decide which of them to include here. There were too many. Raju, whom I met first during my Kedarkantha trip in late December 2008, was in Delhi for his own reasons. And I begin to plan a trip with him to Har-Ki-Dun, leaving with him only from here.

I called up Saurabh and Manu, enquired with them, if they want to accompany. Both instantly gave their approvals. And the same day we trio gathered at my place and left for ISBT Kashmere Gate, Delhi. Raju was already there, and after one hour we took the bus to Dehradun.

Purola

We chatted and enjoyed our way in quite much cold night that was, when we stopped for a sip of tea midway, wind blowing through our hairs.

We packed ourselves well with all we could get out from our bags and the bus resumed its journey. We reached erstwhile bus station of Dehradun around 5 A.M, and are now waiting for bus to Sankri. The Uttarakhand Roadways started at 6:30 A.M for Purola. I remember having seen the private bus going to Sankri opposite the bus stand some 200 meters away. But we did not take that fearing that he would stop frequently and we might get late.

Mori

The roadways was certainly the better decision in the sense that it reached Purola well in time, taking some 3 ½ hours covering some 110 kms.

Sankri Kids

While Saurabh was completely dozed off to sleep, me and Manu would also at times surrender to sleep and other times would simply gaze through the half-closed window. It got better when sun streamed in with full force, warm nice feeling it was.

During winters, transportation on Hills could get worse limiting the choice and mode. From Purola, we took shared jeep and reached Mori. Few songs that were played on that beautiful jungle road, I’ll never forget. A Nepali song, as I was told, looked to me composed brilliantly. The stretch of some 30 kms between the pines and silver birch on a smooth road was good enough to keep us going.

Sankri

From Mori, we took another shared jeep and completed the last lap of our journey to Sankri, approximately 30 kms, from place called Netwar. Saurabh wasn’t feeling well. He would vomit and had severe sleep during the rides. The last few miles were disaster especially after Netwar. The road was in poor shape but the valley view was quite something.

Sankri atlast, I said to myself stretching my body wide. One needs doing this until the rattling sound of bones opening up is not heard. Saurabh vomited again. Manu was eagerly looking at the place very hungry and so was I. And, we ate our so called meal at 4:30 PM around.

We checked in at GMVN (off-white building in the pic) which had no lights, no geyser leaving us no scope for a hot bath. We managed with little warm water at the eating joints, thanking Manu, for he carried a thermos with him.

The water in the thermos kept us warm whenever we sipped it. Rest was the light of the three candles in a room with 5 beds organized neatly. We had the deal paying for 2 beds instead of required 3 placed in the dormitory, since GMVN was not fully functional. In the evening we went for a stroll further along the road towards Taluka to freshen-up, the snow was all along the road-side and few patches over the road itself. The night we retired without much conversation and barely manageable meal.

Road to Taluka, Snowed

Saurabh still looked tired and down. Though he boasted of doing Kedarkantha or Har-Ki-Dun trek, but to us, he did not looked fine. He vomited again after the tea in the morning. Raju then advised to do Lekha Top, pointing at the small flat terrain on the hill top over the other side of Sankri. It was the first time Saurabh looked in bad health after arriving here.

At 8 A.M we decided to do Lekha Top. Raju suggested booking the cab till Jakhol, as we might not have any bus now. Some 18 km from Sankri; Jakhol is certainly a my kind of place.

Supin River

Enroute however we did spared some time sitting along the Supin gaad (name for the small river/stream) clicking some nice views and self pics.
Supin and Rupin are tributaries of the river Tons near Mori. At Jakhol, we were being seen as some aliens from outer space with all village children hovering around us. We had maggi cooked by Raju’s acquaintances there. Soon after we started walking towards uphill for Lekha top.

Jakhol

Reaching Lekha top was not a pain, some 5kms trek, is quite manageable but snow made it a little tricky and we three would slip on it quite often. We met a villager enroute who was suffering from ‘hangover’, who’d eat snow believing that snow could help him get rid of headache. Strange and pitiful sight it was.

All along the way, I was thinking, why do I want to go back to Delhi? Who awaits me there? Family, Job… but my mind is here, my soul lives here. And I wished only if I was born here. But maybe, then, I would want to be anywhere but not here on the hills. I have seen poverty on hills. It’s the only reason why you’d find people pouring into big cities like Delhi, leaving things behind, which they never had wished.

Mahusu Devta Temple At Jakhol

Lekha top was a flat terrain not much big with a slight slope like view and surrounded from the front side with parts of Himalaya.

Kedarkantha, as Raju pin-pointed in the front, looked massive and all filled with snow that filled me with proudness that I did that trek earlier praising my fortune.

Wooden Houses At Jakhol

The place Lekha Top was certainly not a place for regular trekker but for a amateur trekker like us who would want to sit-back all day long and do nothing but just observe the sight and think nothing, speak nothing. Manu took refuge around a rock covering him from the hard blowing air.

I laid down next to villager to warm up my body in the soothing sun. And Raju and Saurabh were chatting up and clicking the pics.
After a while, Raju interrupted breaking the silence. He said “we will go down from here” pointing to the steep rough small path leading downwards. Manu instantly objected to it citing reason that it may strain the knee and hurt legs. He suggested rather we go the same way, from where we started the trek via Jakhol. But Raju reasoned with him giving justification that taking his way will reduce the distance to half and we could reach Sankri even if we don’t get transport.

On Way To Lekha Top

He added “and who knows we might get lucky enough to catch the bus from Jakhol that comes down around 4 pm”. His argument looked right and Manu and I agreed to go down using his way.

Manu was right. We could feel the strain but our hope for transport had kept us going. We waited for 15-20 minutes for bus along the roadside eating the snacks that Saurabh was carrying. Our prayers were not answered so we decided to walk but not without hope that we might get something on the way.

Saurabh, Manu, Raju and Hangover Guy (in the order)

We walked along the serpent-looked road, down and then up crossing the Supin.

Reaching Lekha Top

Now that we our hopes for transport was gone and it became clear that we have to walk to Sankari. Suddenly the experience became pleasant when Raju declared only 2 more kms pointing at the small path leading upwards straight, to Sankri but at its sight it looked unpleasant to walk.

We were dead tired now that. Around 6 pm we finally reached Sankri and found ourselves placed at a table for tea and biscuits.

Kedarkantha Top

It was chilling with wind blowing through our sweat body. We speak nothing, just sipped through our tea. It just got dark suddenly with stars all over our heads and moon shining high, playing in between the passing-by clouds.

As we came back to our GMVN dormitory to rest before we comeback again for dinner, we took out a moment to gaze at Lekha Top from Sankri. We passed smiled at each other and said “what a day it was”! Not knowing in what sense it was understood by each one of us.

Trio...At The Lekha Top: L to R(Himanshu - Manu - Saurabh)

Some pictures below for reader's understanding of the surronding place plus the video of the steep slope following which we came down... straining our knees... :)

Front View from Jakhol

Kedrakantha Top

Manu (taking refuge around the rock)

Saurabh

Itinerary Followed:

Day 1 (Night): Delhi-Dehradun (240 Kms; 6 hours)
Day 2: Dehradun-Purola-Mori-Netwar-Sankri (180 Kms; 6-7 hours)
Day 3: Sankri-Jakhol (30 Kms; 1 hour)-Lekha Top-Sankri
Day 4: Sankri-Vikasnagar/ Dehradun (full day journey)
Day 5 (Morning): Delhi

© Himanshu
For more pics, visit www.flickr.com/myth_drinker

Into the Unknown/Kedarkantha

Kedarkantha is located in the district of Uttarkashi, however the city is some 190kms from place called Sankri (saan-kari) from where the popular trek to Har-Ki-Dun also starts (jeep goes till Taluka, then on foot trail starts Seema/Osla and Har-ki-Dun). Sankri can be reached from Dehradun via Naugaon-Purola-Mori enroute which is some 170 kms. Till Naugaon, the road moves along with Yamuna and at Mori it crosses the river Mori to move up towards Netwar and then Sankri.

The Top Visible Is KedarKantha

Sankri happens to be the last transport point officially. However hired jeeps go till Taluka which is some 11km from Sankri. Kedarkantha (3810 mtrs) is right above the village Sankri some 9kms steep trek upwards (seemed more than 11kms to me). As one moves up through the dense pine jungle amidst the plateau great Himalayan ranges especially Swargarohini (Badrinath) on the right side becomes visible alongwith Black mountain and the view of Bandarpoonch (Yumanotri) as guide was describing. Sankri

To the front one could see Himachal ranges and guide pointed his finger to the front citing some place called Chang Sheel pass which of course was not getting visible to me. All I could see a 360 degree snow view around me as I stand on a long plateau of farmland to give rest to my aching shoulders from the burden of rucksack. It was for last two times I have been canceling my trips to hills (apology to Manu, Hukum, Saurabh and Kiran for not making it to Gaumukh) due to official purposes that somehow always seem to come just before I intend to take break.
Raju (Our Guide)

And thinking about those 22 leaves I still had in my bag (this is December) and that in March they would lapse, I felt agitated and helpless once again.

Kiran called up on early Wednesday afternoon just before x’mas with his plan, but I still was not sure weather I would be able to make it with him to his dreamland. Thinking about hills was driving me mad and I decided to play a ‘serious performer’ and started toying with ideas that suits best for 2 days leave. Kiran Bhai

And, two days after (on 24th) I fell ‘serious’ ill (the plot worked fine!).

Wednesday 24th night we two met at ISBT Delhi exploring the options we have and Kiran’s idea seem perfect as imagined about a rural cold landscape. Kiran came late so I thought to gather some information from the bus driver who was cleaning the front mirror of this bus to Ponta Shahib. The driver had this flair for singing, speed and chatting which he later admitted and as I experienced (dude was driving between thick fog at 60+ speed) was contrary to other drivers with whom I have been going places.

Har-Ki-Dun Valley

We reached Vikasnagar at 5am in freezing cold. We took tea after getting down. The tea shop owner pointed that we will have to take another bus that would drop us at the place (a famous sweets shop which was some 4kms) from where the bus to Sankri would go. 6 am the bus leaves. We reached some 20 minutes before but the bus left only at 7am with handful of people. I tried to remain awake but soon dozed off. Kiran was already under the spell of sleep (he slept all the way to Dehradun). I didn’t slept much, sun was getting warm and I needed a tea. Me!

The route seemed beautiful with no big towns, no herd of people, and elevated roads with frequent hiccups. We stopped at Naugaon and enjoyed a bottle of Limca each, then another halt at Purola. This halt was for about 1 hour and people rushed into the bus. I guess not many buses go beyond Purola. At 1pm the bus started again and we reached Mori and then Netwar.

Purola

The route after Purola to Mori (50 kms/2hrs) and Netwar (25kms/1hr) was under the forest land and suddenly the civilization started to vanish away. Around 4:40 pm we reached Sankri (18kms from Netwar) and located GMVN. We got the room for 400 bucks with no electricity or hot water facility. It was freezing cold when around 7pm we came down again to market to eat where we inquired for places to visit. Its then only I came to know that Sankri is the place from where the trek to Har-Ki-Doon starts. But we didn’t had time for Har-ki-Doon and the option we were given was Kedarkantha.

Next morning we got up early. While Kiran wanted to walk down and see and picture people around, I was thinking about Kedarkantha. Finally Kiran also agreed for a 2 day trek, and we arranged for guide from the guy we spoke to last night who happens to own the Sankri Himalayan Samiti. Massif of Swargarohini

Our guide Raju was lean and thin man in his 30ties but experienced quite well. He told us about the places he has been to and foreign girlfriends that he had especially the one from Britain who always plan trip with him only. I was rather interested in something else, and said, “Can we please have some tea”! He took us to a hut nearby where we were offered black tea. The guy worked there in fields and lives all alone since he lost his way some 26 years back from Nepal and now works as care taker of fields. Polite and humble with no expressions of regret or thinking of his family (when I asked him about).
Taal along the Way!

We started again and reached a plateau – a big terrace with nothing on it. In front clearly visible were Himachal ranges. I enjoyed what I saw – snow covered and closely arranged mountains with sharp tips. And we continued walking.

Walking about some 5kms we reached a lake that was completely surrounded by thick forest. Guide lighted some fire and served us hot paranthas and tea but we were filled with too much of water and after 1 and half more we rejected to eat. Tea I have always enjoyed.

Break for the Day

We resumed walking upside slowly and after covering about 2kms we stated to see the snow flakes lying all over the field. We decided to halt and camp near to water source. The temperature was dipping and it was indeed freezing cold. We did a couple of shoots and returned back to camp on the call of Raju and begin to blow the fire to fight the cold and warm our night. Later sometimes we were served Maggi and the tea again. Despite out very best efforts we could not light the fire on the log that we had thought would keep us warm until midnight. Himachal Side of Hills

So we retire to our sleeping bags in the camp. Me and Kiran could not sleep well. It was very cold and the tent had 2 holes through which wind was blowing and hitting us hard. Raju was out by 5:30 and he fired the light to make us some tea. Soon we were also up and started to pack the tent cursing the guy who supplied us the gear.

The morning was fresh but walking on snow was getting hard. It was all up-hill way and the fresh snow was making us slip into small pits every now and then. Campfire

We also had no choice since we did not bring any gear to equip us for this undecided excursion.

Soon after Kiran said ‘No’! We were just 1km away from hill top which was clearly visible with four (actually five) stones on the top. Now that the sun was up too and wind was blowing cool, I was enjoying the feel though tired. Kiran shouted again, “I will be here only, you guys go!”

Walking in the Snow

It was getting hard for me too but certainly I didn’t want to leave it here and I followed Raju, our guide. After some 250 mtrs I gave up to. The peak was near and clearly visible were 5 pillars on it of almost equal height. It was an amazing sight which certainly could not be put into words. And I rested for a while uncomfortably though. The snow was making it hard and then the wind piercing my ears. And we both decided to come back. Morning View of Swargarohini

I recalled that it was not the first time I could not touch the point even being so near to it and suddenly I remembered that during my Gaumukh trip also we faced something similar.

Me and Manu, and the cold October end. After reaching near to Bhojbasa (some 3 kms) we decided to come back to Gangotri due to discomfort. We were without any snacks or food, not even the water bottle and the worst was wind blowing that almost had got us down.

Kedarkantha Visible

We hardly could breath properly forget walking. That day we covered some 22kms of to and fro. Indeed an unforgettable moment. A little different but same we duo experinced in Narkanda during our Hatu temple walk between the think ice.

Hard Walk

So we started to comeback from Kedarkantha but not towards Sankri. Instead we opted to climb down towards Netwar. After walking down for some 6kms we decided to take lunch. The maggi again, which I ofcourse disliked. We resumed again after tea.

We continue to walk till the sun went down. However in between we again took a brief break at a village well known to Raju. He wanted us to end the day there itself. Kiran was also keen to stay. But his purpose was to capture people and village life in his lens, while I had the forest rest-house in my mind which I had seen at Netwar along the road over a small ridge.

Along The Great Indian Himalaya

Unfortunately neither we stayed in the village (I insisted to reach Netwar) and nor went to Forest rest-house at Netwar (we thought what if we don’t find any place there to sleep). We just had quick sip of warm soothing tea. Raju took us to a nearby village just a km before Netwar market. It was his relative’s. We spent the night in comfort except the snoring of Kiran which often annoyed me but then I was too tired to notice properly.

Me & Raju, Doing Our Best

Next morning at 8 around we took the private bus to Purola and then from there Uttarakhand Roadways to Dehradun via Mussorie. At 7pm we reached Dehradun and filled our stomachs quickly. Then we took the night bus at 9pm from the Roadways bus stand. I remember I met the same guy who came with us till Vikas Nagar from Delhi. We chatted for an hour or so and then I dozed off.

Raju, Basking in the Sun in the Village

I might have fallen to sleep but in my mind was with all those people whom I met during this trip and after a while I reminded myself two words –

‘Born Again’.

© Himanshu

For pics please see www.flickr.com/myth_drinker