The Ultimate Destination / Badrinath

Shri Badrinath Shrine - abode of Lord Vishnu (October, 2011 - IInd Week )

The road diverts after Joshimath, one goes to Valley of Flowers and Hemkunt Shahib Gurudwara, and the other to Badri Dham

View enroute

Razor-sharp mountain heads enroute

Neelkanth

Shrine of Lord Badrinath Ji

Alaknanda, flowing at Badrinath

approaching Mana village

Neelkanth (from Auli)

Nanda Devi Peak (from Auli)

Auli Panarama - view of Himalaya

View from Suraithota, on Tapovan - Malari road

Dhauliganga Project enroute Malari

BRO - at work to make highway road swift

from Suraithota bridge

Dhauliganga Valley

Photo blog: www.flickr.com/myth_drinker Copyright Protected Under Creative Commons.

The Immortal Tulips / Buda Madhmaheshwar

This year has been fortunate and very kind to me. I have had good dose of hiking in the mountains. But I aspire more. Madhmaheshwar (2750 mtrs.) is long due, and its been on my list from quite sometime. The feeling grew more than ever after going through Bhavik Thaker's flickr pics of the place. I was completely mesmerized with the pic that has fog all over the place and clouds floating in the valley and glaciers in the backdrop shining all-white. It reminded me of the Rudranath trek that we did in August 2008.

Imagination started to catch up fast. Mountains. Glaciers. Greener than green forest. Swollen water-falls. And, gushing Madhu Ganga. Picture after picture. And the day was set. 15th July night. We left Delhi late around 1 a.m from ISBT Kasmere Gate. Me, Rajeev Ji, Gagan, Sanjeev & Gaurav. The bus-ride between Delhi to Haridwar was smooth. I managed to get some sleep though in pieces. We changed bus at Haridwar. Haridwar-Rishikesh stretch was a complete misery. It rained hard and bus was in worst health, with water oozing from everywhere. A couple of foreigners onboard were excited looking at the real India.

From Rishikesh, we booked a cab to Ukhimath for Rs. 3000. Then from here boarded G.M.O.U bus for Uniyana at about 4:30. Due to the cracked road, the bus had to stop before Uniyana and a km long steep trek awaited us to climb. We reached Uniyana at 6:30 p.m. And halted for the night, retired to sleep after a spicy hot meal. It was still pouring, though slow. Next day, 6:30 am, we started our trek. At places, there were waterfalls on the road. Big enough for us to think how to cross them without water getting into our shoes.

We reached Ransi around 9 a.m chit-chatting and walking slowly, covering merely 3 kms. At Rakeshwari Devi temple we paid our homage. And took our breakfast. We resumed our journey again to reach Gaundhar that was only 6 kms away. It was all-down and passed through the forest on serpent-trail trek that must had some 8-10 bends. It was here the rain grew heavy and drenched us all. We soaked all of it happily. Soon clouds floating over the valley, and gushing of Madhu Ganga down below could be heard. Fragrance of Earth mixed with mist and cool wind could be felt. The air dived into my lungs through a long breath.

We continued walking, and reached here around 12 p.m very easily at our moderate pace. It is here we ate our lunch. What a hearty meal it was! Hot and light, with lots of ghee over it. It was a traditional Garhwali dish that was soft greenish fluid just like palak. I was the first one to eat, in the kitchen besides the fire. The owner, Bharat Panwar offered to make some dal and sabzi for others on the pretext that he had made that traditional food for themselves so some taste-buds might not approve such food.

Everybody ate heartful except Gagan who is choosy in what he eats. And journey once again resumed at about 2 p.m. 2 kms after Gaundhar was the bridge that leads you to Bantoli. From here the actual trek starts. And we found ourselves getting to the other side of the hill. 9 kms- all climb but beautiful valley-side that opens up but only at the temple which is a plateau. Thick fog engulfed us but the downpour looked refreshing. We maintained our pace and tried to minimise breaks. And we reached Khachrakhal where we sipped upon piping hot tea at a hut-shop. It was raining heavily.

Then came after another 3-4 kms the place called Nanu. Another tea break, we had, chitchatting. Now that the valley has started to broaden but still supressed with the dense forest. But it gave us clear glimpse of the mountain glaciers to our right, north-face. It was like breathing got easy. Soon the rain had stopped. We reached another spot called Maikhamba after walking another 3kms. From here the distance was 3 kms to the temple but the forest grew wilder. The time was 6:00 pm almost and we were worried to reach the temple before sun sets and night stretches itself.

The sunset looked stunning. Molten gold shining over the peaks. Sweet breeze over touching our wet hairs. And occassionly I would shiver with the chill. We were wet and tired by now. The walk that was once pleasant till Gaundhar, now suddenly started to appear monstrous. The path always somehow seem to have yet another bend. And the bends kept on turning us and climb got steeper. We were now kind of fed up with walking. And wondering, if we would be able to make it to the temple today.

Gagan offered some toffees that really saved us from that sinking feeling. But the fear of the dark loomed. A very thin ray of the Sun that is too fainting slowing and the endless jungle that offered bends and bends every now and then, of course not without hiccups. We could hear the voice of our breathing. The last stretch was like - a road that never ends. And we were like - a rider who remains hopeful to see his destination at the very next bend. But in our case, the enthusiasm had died by now and hopes were getting feeble with every step.

Before this last ray of the sun could disappear and before the moon winks at us and takes up the charge for the night; we heard the temple bells. Overheard it once again, and then once again. I could hear the voice over the loudspeaker praising chants of Lord Shiva. Enough for us to charge our legs. And the sound of the loudspeaker echoed once again. Temple was merely at the distance of 300 mtrs now. We rushed to attend the evening ritual - arti - that has started. A quick wash at the tap next to the temple - in the icy cold water that sent shivers to the spine. Inside temple, were few people. An elderly couple, who passed before us. And some locals who are stationed at the temple itself, including the young South-Indian priest. It was damp inside the temple, infact overall the place was cold and damp. I realised this sitting over a cots-wool mat observing the temple from inside. In the sanctum sanatorium, only the priest and his aide could enter. Slowly and steady, i found myself lost in the sweet aroma of dhoop and the chants dedicated to the lord Shiva. Next moment I was crying thinking that Lord took 2 years to invite me to His abode, His holy shrine named Madhmaheshwar, despite my best efforts.

My urge slowly and steadily came down, after a while and I felt at ease. Priest offered us all prasad and the ceremony came to an end. We took refuge for the night in the mandir samiti's dharamshala and didn't care to negotiate with others who were offering more cheaper and better options that that. Afterall we all were dead tired.

Next morning, we started early to visit Buda Madhmaheshwar to see Chaukhamba some 2.5 kms trek though a bit steep. It was a plateau - a big ground with two small kunds housed by rainwater.

There was also an ancient small temple made up of stones of Shiva, and at some distance to its right-side another small temple of Bhairava. We spent some good 2 hours here clicking pictures, catching reflection of peaks in the water, but above all to it, trying to look through the clouds the mount of Chaukhamba. That is what we were there for. On a clear sky day, one could see mighty Chaukhamba and the town of Guptkashi from here. For us in that sense it was not a lucky moment. Because Chaukhamba never unveiled itself. We could just manage to get a glimpse of it with our camera ready and hooked onto it. It mostly remained wrapped well in the layers of thick clouds over its mount. That was heart-sinking, but nothing could be done about it. It was getting cloudy and slowly drops from heaven started to pour down. This was the time we knew we should step down. But it never rained, just the tiny drops scaring you every

now and then. I was completely lost into the beauty of the place. Greenfields. Open skies. Glaciers. Clouds. And a small beautiful temple that is often worshiped. I am sure God must have loved it here. God must have selected this place carefully and so it deserves to be holy.

Chaukhamba, a glimpse that I could capture. But visibility was quite poor and waiting for it to show up - the chance was almost negligible. We started to come back with first few drops on our head. We paid our homage to Shetrapal Devta whose small temple is just 200 mtrs away from Madhmaheshwar shirne. It is on the route from the temple leads to Nandikund, via Pandu Sera famous for bugyals.

We came back to the temple. While on our way back I was delighted to see many tiny colorful flowers on the carpet of the meadows everywhere, mainly purple, maroon and yellow. I have seen them before and everytime I have seen them, I have liked them. These were like thoughts, floating around everywhere, in every sight, in every turn, on every bend, on every trail. Yet they won't be the main thing that we would want to see. Not the main thing or the reason - why you are here. Yet not the one of the things that gets noticed every now and then or discussed with peers. No one does that, and tulips don't complain. They stay where they were, they die where they were and they re-born where they were.

One after another, many small flowers different colors, different shapes yet not a line that describes them and not a word that glorifies them. Not in this blog, not anywhere that I have sinked my eyes into. Good things in life are such, often un-noticed. Now that I've come back - its not the Chaukhamba, Clouds, Mountains, Rain or for that matter the temple, but those tulips that continue to live inside me, dominate my mind all the time. Tulips are your part of good life, cherish them to bloom.

(c) Himanshu

Itinenary:

15th July Night: Delhi-Rishikesh by bus. Reached by 8 A.M.

16th July: Cab to Okhimath for Rs. 3000; Bus to Uniyana. Reached by 6 p.m.

17th July: Uniyana- Ransi (3kms) - Gaundhar (6kms) - Bantoli (2kms) - Madhmaheshwar (9kms) - TOTAL 20 kms approx.

18th July: Buda Madhmaheshwar - Gaundhar.

19th July: Gaundhar-Uniyana-Ukhimath (by shared jeep). Ukhimath - Rudraprayag (by bus). Rudraprayag-Rishikesh (cab for Rs. 2200). Rishikesh at 9 pm. Boarded bus to Delhi.

20th July: Delhi@6 a.m. Office by 10 a.m.

Question of the Lifetime / Munsiyari, Kumaon, Uttarakhand

Yesterday night I spent most of the time thinking about my life and my so called future. Most of the thinking was about – how do I want my life to be? Certainly not much I desire, but I can’t be blindfold to the average Indian progressing whose probably sole aim is to improve the life standards. But what defines that standard? A classic case is IIT/IIM students venturing out to find their life opting out of nicely paid jobs arranged through placement cell.

Garhmukteshwar (both pics)

This is not for me having known that I can only stick to the job that I have in my hand. Not that I can’t do! But no immediate plans I have such. So – how do I make my life live the way I want it to be. The DNA and search for its genesis is not new to a thinking mind - to decode real meaning of life but not the Buddha way certainly!

Your biggest strength could be your biggest weakness too – your family. Thinking of them, I can’t just runaway to continue my search about the question I’ve raised to myself.

So whenever I get the opportunity to backpack, take full advantage leveraging it to my competitive advantage as management philosophers have described the situation.

Such an opportunity came through Gaurav, who called up after a long gap of time almost after 2008. Gaurav, I’ve remember of him as a student but his nature-loving side of life – was something I did not knew about.

On Nainital Road

Until one day he sent me a message with few pics about his brief trips to hills and what I remember is having seen the pics from his Gangotri-Gaumukh diary on the facebook. A program was made after successive interactions with him – to Munsiyari.

January 24th 2011, morning about 3:30 am, they came in Alto to pick me up from my place. It was hard – finding my place and therefore, I had to guide them the way to a near-by point. There were 3 of them – inside car. Gaurav, alongwith Vikram – a likeminded fellow traveler like us in his early thirties like me, built like me, height like me – almost. At the back was a tall lean guy – Pawan Dubey – who works with NTC. I adjusted myself with him at the back seat. I realized that I had to use ATM service. After which we set off to a journey to find some questions and pursue some answers.

Marriage Procession at Golu Devta Temple, Chittai, Almora

The interaction started among us and with that my fear of – how these guys will be which also often crossed my mind as the date came closer – was tamed down. I was satisfied to be with them. All clean and nice guys – likeminded – just I was. It feels good when you have companions who give you space and understand you as much as you do about yourself. There is a very limited fraternity who is crazy for travels and treks – I was glad to be with them, finding them to be – easy and friendly.

First glimpse - Panchachuli enroute Berinag

And came then Garhmukteshwar between our talks and the stereo playing new-age film songs. Few shots of rising sun over Garhganga from the bridge – refreshed us. The scene was chillier than the chill in the wind itself. But it was quite a feeling to relish. And we set off further.

Approaching Berinag

About 11 around, we reached Haldwani, took quick bites on the paranthas that Gaurav has brought with him alongwith cold drink bottles. We were but not quite much hungry then.

The drive to Almora was almost very swift until we crossed Khairna past Kainchi Dham. The massive rains of last year made this route that once was quite a delight, miserable to drive. With lots of hitches and hikes, on some 20 kms long stretch, we reached back side of Almora’s main bazzar. It was here we took up serious lunch, ate heartly meal, and stretched ourselves. It was 2 O’clock.

KMVN, Choukori

We were quick enough to eat and soon left Almora to reach our destination for the day and night halt – Berinag.

However original plan was to reach Chaukori. After a long drive through Cedars, and Silver Birch jungles that we passed through – came Berinag. That was some 120 kms from Almora. At 7 pm, it the small hill-town looked dead. Some taxi-jeep drivers were chatting up besides the fire to fight the January chill. We checked into a hotel that was almost clean, hurriedly. A previous hotel we checked in was not ventilated properly and price-wise also high, though difference was not significant. That night we opened up the bottles – to refresh ourselves from the tiredness and be ready for another day.

Berinag to Choukori

It was nice – some friends and few bottles. Although we all don’t drink and were very occasional beer drinkers, except Pawan who could beat monsters in competition, and sipped upon Old Monk lavishly.

I chose go with Rum, a nice peg, enough to keep you warm. As the clock struck 9, we got worried for food since we knew that on small remote hill town, the usual business closes early, and very early during winters. Thank God, we were just on time.

Takula Falls enroute Birthi

Next morning, the sun was up already and so were I. There was an astonishing view of Panchachuli ranges in the front that were seen from the back side of the hotel and to its extreme left at farther end was Nanda Devi.

Chakouri was nearby, some 30 kms, so we decided for our breakfast break. Chakouri, I found was more of a place to take strolls, until my thoughts were distorted as soon as we entered into KMVN. The view was grand. The Himalayan ranges eye to eye, in our front. And my hands reached fast for my Canon XSi hanging by strap around my neck. Just when me and Gaurav were discussing about them, Pawan called up to say, breakfast is ready, and we climbed down from the elevation point for tourists to see the white feathered hill ranges. As good was the breakfast we had.

We stuffed the fuel for the day and left Chakouri with assumptions about Munsiyari. Suddenly we had this great urge to reach Munsiyari and be close to Panchachuli.

It was not my first time in Kumaon, neither in the district Pithoragarh. Earlier I’ve been to Tanakpur-Champawat-Pithoragarh belt right from from Poornagiri temple along the banks of Sharda river to Kali-Gori Ganga confluence in Jauljibi, to wilderness of Askot sanctuary to the swinging bridge between India and Nepal at Dharchula. Infact I’ve been upto Tawaghat. While this belt was towards down, the belt on which I’m on with my friends now move upwards. With gossips, songs, stories, leg-pulling, sharing facts and experience, we came all along long way to Birthi falls. But before that there was one single delight that we found and got hooked to for sometimes was Takula Falls – visible from the road itself, some 150 mtrs fall – all white, sprinkling white.

Birthi Falls (both the pics)

Birthi was a delight too. Infact a bigger delight if not better. The statement requires understanding the difference between better and bigger. One thing that makes it bigger if not better was you can get close one to one with Birthi Falls. And that’s what we did to move from bigger to better experience. We bathed. Despite cold response from Gaurav, no self opinion of Pawan, and lukewarm response from Vikram; we ended up enjoying the bath in icy cold water of Birthi in the warm Sun.

Refreshed!

We headed towards Kalamuni. All this while, Vikram was driving. No wonder, you need guts to steer on the hills right from early morning to late evening. I was amazed with his passion for driving. He was indeed enjoying it or atleast it seemed to me. Whoa! In the meanwhile, snow patches started to appear. Pawan yelled in excitement, Snow! Stop! But Vikram didn’t with a promise that there’s more to come ahead. He did fulfill the promise and we took some shots enroute.
We arrived at Kalamuni, the temple of the Goddess Kali around 2 pm. The beauty was – you got to see the both side views from here. However I’m not sure how many of us noticed that because my fellows were looking at the snow around. We quickly paid our homage to the Goddess and gave order for the tea. The sun was playing hide and seek. Sometimes windy air blows through our hairs touching us with all its chillness, to sizzle us. Kalamuni was place to be. I could spend a full day here sipping upon unlimited tea and grazing at the two sides of the world. We took off again.

Just after half an hour, we were reading the signboard that read “Thamrikund – 3 Kms” along the roadside next to the temple of monkey-God Hanuman. We paid out homage and move towards the signboard to explore Thamrikund with mixed feelings and set of different combinations – to go really or not. Actually, it was already 3:20 pm around when we started moving towards Thamrikund and we were not sure if we would be able to reach due to the snow.

Approaching Kalamuni & Kalamuni Temple

Then also we had no idea about how far Munsiyari will be from here.

Thamrikund (first view)

After up and down on slopes between the snow that made us hard for walk, we somehow, after moderate difficulty reached Thamrikund. Gaurav slipped once or twice, and got scared of hitting his new Canon on the surface. He protested and resisted just like Pawan did – but Pawan’s reasons was ofcourse not the snow but the fear of animals especially the bear.

But we encountered nothing but the snow. Gaurav probably was thinking how he would make it going back. And the sun was setting too. Almost it was 5 O’clock when we started to comeback but deep in our hearts we did not wanted to comeback atleast for some more time. Thamrikund is the lake that was partly filled with snow to one side and partly where the sun rays reached, the water was warm. This reminded me of Devaria Taal enoute Chopta, during my visit to Tungnath.

Thamrikund (the other side had snow)

Atlast we came back and continued driving to Munsiyari that was still some 16 kms from here. The snow on road got thick and slippery. With utmost cautious, Vikram steered through the snow and the dark. Atlast we reached Munsiyari just when the last ray of sun gave the much closer Panchachuli its last gleam. What a sight it was, unforgettable! Soon after we got busy with finding accommodation.

Nanda Devi Temple, Munsiyari
In Hotel Rajrambha, we settled down for 500 bucks for a dormitory-like room which he was resisting to but gave after we sought shelter in some other hotel. But we had to come back to shift to Rajrambha for tidiness though it was also not par with any standard. But did we have more choice?

This evening too the bottles were out – beer for other and rum for Pawan. But before that we surveyed the place and came back after taking an early meal.

Panchachuli

At 7pm what a deserted look, Munsiyari bore. I purchased a set of hand woven carpet from here for 6000 bucks which I really liked and I assume Gaurav too. Although, after purchasing it I got skeptical because I didn’t think about how it’ll be carried in Alto. Gaurav said “we will find a way, ab to le liya”.

Khaliya Top : Slope we walked on

We enjoyed our conversations during the night but I have no clue when I fell asleep after finishing my share of beer and thoughts. It was probably 9:30 around.

Point of start of Khalia Top Trek

Next day we got up early – first Gaurav, then me and Vikram. Gaurav was getting restless to get the first glimpse of Panchachuli. Vikram occasionally tried leg pulling and I was enjoying it in my own way.

Pawan was still asleep or maybe getting ready while we were on hotel rooftop to click snaps.

It was colder than I though freezing our hands and we came down. We packed our stuff and prepared to visit Nanda Devi temple.

Nanda Devi (L) and Panchachuli (M-R)

The temple offered fabulous views of Panchachuli to its left side.

We also climbed up on a elevation point made for tourists to see Panchachuli – obstacle free.

We paid our homage to the Goddess Nanda and spent quite some time there looking at the massive structures of snow – the Himalayas.

Around 8 we were back at Rajrambha hotel to take our breakfast. Hot paranthas with hot simmering tea. And we were ready to climb famous Khaliya Top.

Flock of birds

We were making our plans to do Khalia Top from quite sometime and dealing with questions – Do we need a guide? Where to find one? I contacted Laxaman Singh after reading Almora Boy’s blog and taking reference from here but he demanded 4500 for a night’s stay at Khalia Top. And we decided to explore it by ourselves.

Although we did not reached the top but we got quite near to it. Snow made it hard to penetrate through the way to top and its intensity increased just as we got near to the huts. Vikram and Pawan climbed a bit more to observe things better – the Panchachuli. However the view from down to the huts was satisfying for me. This is where I said to Gaurav that I will spend my time here looking at the massifs of each of the mountains. Later we met two other gentlemen alongwith the guide who also planned not to go up and stop there to enjoy the view and the warmth of the sun. I did not go because I didn’t want to rush things.

Me, being one with my question!

I rather wanted to give it time – time to observe and cleanse my thoughts, drive my instincts and let me be in my void ness with my very own-self. For a minute we spoke nothing, did nothing and just sat quietly to seek our own “moment of truth”. A truth that we might not have known or would never be known. Just like this question – what is it that I want from my life remains!

Itinenary:

Day 1: Started @ 4am from Delhi in Alto; Reached Haldwani @ 11 (260kms); then Almora @ 2pm (90 kms). Halt for Lunch and thereafter Berinag @ 7pm (120 kms). Night Halt.

Day 2: Left Berinag @ 7:40 am; Reached Chaukori @ 9:15a.m (40kms); then Birthi Falls (50 kms), spend about 2 hrs here, and reached Kalamuni @ 2:40p.m (35kms); then Thamrikund (18kms).Trekked to the lake and came back 5pm. Finally reached Munsiyari @ 6pm driving through the snow patches on the road.

Day 3: Visited Nanda Devi temple @ 8 am (2 kms from Munsiyari town), came back for breakfast, packed our stuff and drove to Khalia Top bend @ 10a.m backwards. Did Khalia top trek and returned back @ 2pm. Drove off to Bagheshwar. Night Halt.

Day 4: Started 5a.m from Bageshwar. @ 6a.m Baijnath temples and then via - Kausani (Kosani) - Garur - Someshwar - Ranikeht - Bhimtal - Haldwani - Delhi @ 10:30 pm (total approx. 490 kms).

© Himanshu Dutt

for more pics: www.flickr.com/myth_drinker