The Happenstance / Kuari Pass, Uttarakhand, India

The Team (L to R) Last Row: Prem, Sanjay, Yash, Sandy, Beeru
2nd Row: Abhishek, Hukum, Rajeev Ji. Front: Ranjan

Chamoli Skies

Happenstance, for some reasons it was. We plan. It rains. We plan again, it rains again. And every time it rains, it rips our dream apart of - to go to the Lord of the Mountains. Then, we planned again looking at the weather God and with our hearts praying. Soul to soul. The prayer answered, rain stopped but there were the news of devastation from several cloudbursts that happened around several places in Garhwal, precisely, in Chamoli region. It was a disappointment to hear many people got displaced and several lost lives. But life has to go on, and so goes our planning for Kuari Pass which is in the making for now over a month. Initially when I mailed the itinerary to everyone I know, the response was slow. Only confirmed person were Rajeev Ji, Hukum, Ranjan and Sanjay. Gagan opted out at the last moment, and Saurabh also could not go, Sanjeev has just changed his job so could not come, and Gaurav also did not respond back. From a group that was about some 8-10 people big has not reduced to just 5. 

Badrinath (Bus Stand) at 3 pm

Hukum confirmed me that 3 more people will be coming along with him, one of which is his cousin - Yash Rawat, Prem Rekhola and Sandeep Arya (Sandy). Another young chap who joined us was Abhishek. And as per plan, everybody met at ISBT Anand Vihar, Delhi at 7 p.m. In fact, Hukum already got our tickets blocked for Chamoli and we boarded the new lot of Uttarakhand Roadways that looked well off compared to others in the sight. But the bus will leave at 9:30. So we started to know each other. 

Ranjan and Sanjay, now 1 trek old with me, took out the Vodka and started their socializing activity soon enough.We were killing time, chatting up, trying to know each other. Yash, almost of my height, is young, jovial, a little shy and introvert sort of guy. Sandy is opposite to this nature. He gels well, smiles more frequently and obviously a over-rated social drinker. Prem has a vibrant face, glowing skin and coarse voice. He spent all his time chatting up on his mobile. I was wondering at his stamina of marathon of words. But he is overall a soft natured guy. Abhishek, I have now known for 4-5 years. I taught him during his MBA days.

Badrinath (towards GMVN)

Nanda Devi (evening view from Gorson)

He initially heisted to chat but soon became the part of the group. Ranjan is most enthusiastic person I have ever met in this life. When we were planning this trip, almost every day he calls me up or drops a message about the plan. To me it looks like, he has been infected with the disease called 'Hill-maniac' and like the one who carry this disease - he has become 'escapist' who looks for an encounter with hills, every now and then. Sanjay, is my office colleague, who is very judgmental, argumentative at times, reserved and passionate about his office work-life. He has a big heart, and carries his mixture of myth and wisdom. He is quite jolly with me and Ranjan, who is his childhood friend as well. Remained now is Rajeev Ji, who is heart of all conversations and has been known to me for 3-4 years. We did a couple of treks together. He is centre-point of all groups I have been with. He is also good at socializing, in fact better than Sandeep, as per the vital stats.   

Beeru, our guide, trying to fetch some water from a nearby stream

The bus started at the said time. And I asked Ranjan to hand me over the food packet which his mother had made and father had packed diligently. Soon after I asked for another, such was my hunger. Conversations begin soon. Rajeev Ji soon after came to his freestyle, he made a place for himself to lie down and relax just near to rear gate. We all after sometimes and about after a little chit-chatting was dozing off one by one. 

We reached Chamoli at about 10:45 a.m, took jeep to Joshimath and from there to Badrinath Ji. Enroute, Sanjay found that one of the bottle of rum cracked in his sack. His clothes drenched into the smell or what social drinkers called it as - aroma of rum. This disappointed him. 

Haath-Ghodi Parvat

Ranjan, walking up the trail

At 3 pm about we reached the Lord's abode - Badrinath. This day was special being Ganesha Chaturthi. We hired 2 rooms at GMVN, who agreed to gave us third for free to our delight - at Rs. 810 per room, it was cheap plus third for free which makes - 180 per head. It was already cloudy outside. Anytime rain might start, I said to myself. We quickly unpacked our stuff in our rooms, picked up our clothes, to take a bath in the holy kund and have Badrinath's darshan thereafter. It started to rain soon. We quickly took the dip in the kund. The water was hotter than hot. We had quick bath, and proceeded towards the temple. There was a line for aarti at the gate of the temple, though not long. Only Rajeev ji managed to have darshan, rest of us, had darshan from outside. And to be honest, nobody complained. I was happy that Lord has allowed me to comeback again this year to his abode. That very feeling made me satisfied. 

Taali

We waited for Rajeev Ji to comeback. The group was unintentionally divided into two. Ranjan, Sanjay, Me, Abhishek and Rajeev Ji and Hukum, Yash, Prem and Sandy into another. The group still needed the bonding to stick together and enjoy. Our group quickly had dinner while the other group was awaiting us for the same. Nevermind, we went out again for the supper. The food we ate was pathetic, we just managed to send something inside our stomach. After that, we sat for sometime, gossiping while some of us chose to surrender themselves to sweet sleep.   

The Trail

Next day, Prem arranged tea for everyone. After that, I decided to take a dip and have quick darshan before we proceed to Joshimath back again for Kuari Pass. Abhishek followed. And then came Ranjan and Sanjay as well. Rest of the group decided to laze and graze. The water in the kund was soothing and we enjoyed every bit of the moment. Then we had little puja performed by an elderly priest for us at the kund. We went for darshan thereafter. The temple premise was clear. There were about 7-8 people inside the temple, and we had great darshan with nearly 15 minutes inside the premise, closely looking at Bhagwan Vishnu's saligram idol in black. It was moment of truth, soul stirring, one to one with Lord. There was silence and penance both at the same place. Overjoyed, we came out of the temple to click some snaps. 

We crossed that top to reach here

The group was at its best once again. We negotiated with a Jeep driver for a drop at Mana and then back to Joshimath. All I could say, from here onward, the chemicals between us all started to gel. We were uniting while untying ourselves from our egos. The last Indian village picture at least confirms the same. As we passed through Mana village, then on Bhim-Pul (bridge), looking at gushing Saraswati, to trying our hands on ploughing to what Yash referred as, ploughing the last Indian village - in all we were coming closer, uniting, bonding and becoming ourselves to each other. After posing for pics, and a relaxed breakfast, we started for Joshimath. 

Trail, enroute

At Joshimath, we have had already arranged for the Kuari Pass trek through a local trek operator, a day before. Per day per person Rs. 1000, which we duly agreed to. For next 3 days, our home will be the beautiful bugyals and small trails of Kuari Pass. An easy trek, Kuari Pass can be done in 3 days depending upon from which place you want to start your trek. Lord Curzon's trail is the longest route that starts with Ghat and ends at Tapovan. We preferred to do it via Auli-Goson-Tali-Khulara-Kuari to save time. Beautiful trail, blue skies, with Himalayan ranges in our sight; it was an experience I was certainly dying for. We started our trek from Auli, after a hot and heartly dal-chawal meal at GMVN. Our destination was Gorson top for the night halt. It was about 3 pm when we started our trek. We reached the campsite about 5 pm amidst laughters and leg pulling. We had a brief halt at Padiyar Devta, the place from where a little distance upwards we had to camp. Our guide Beeru announced call for tea soon after.
            

Sanjay, tired. 

Me, Yash and Prem decided to take a stroll and after the tea session, we started to climb to the top. Nanda Devi East was visible. Among others were Haathi-Ghora, Mana Parvat, Neelkanth and a whole ranges of unknown glaciers - unknown at least to me. The view was like- sun spreading slowly, stretching itself like a sea on to the glacial snow white tip of the Nanda Devi. The moment was special. It was about two lovers who promised to meet again - the mountain like a Romeo shall wait for his love, Juliet, to shine again the next day. It defines the parting ways with a hope to meet again. 

Pangarchula top is visible

O' Soul,  the greatly God,

My sin is you, penance is you,

I long for you, I stand for you...

...and in my prejudice, I ignore all

to embrace you

The highest ridge of the top

With sunset, the warmth, started to decline and the rise of droplets from the sky started to tap. By now, we were back to our camps. I saw Ranjan and Hukum, working hard over the small stove, trying to cook, the chicken. It will be ready in few minutes for serve said Hukum. The mention of 'few minutes' in his tone looked satisfying since each one of us were hungry. And we three were dying, since we missed the soup to compose the above-said poem. Along with Yash and Prem, I begin to bring the woods to light the fire. Soon Sandeep and Abhishek also came in to help. Yash made many attempts to light up the woods drenched in the mositure and the mistness. Prem also occasionally attempted to blow the woods to light up the fire to help Yash. Sandeep remarked "tum kuch kar lo ye aag nahi jalegi". It turned out to be like that. Little fire that we could blow up was almost of no use. It gave no warmth. We wasted our efforts and some 2 ltr of kerosene as well. So we retired to our camps. How we wished if we all could be accommodated into just one single tent. And, here we are 4 people each in 3 tents. That's how the life is - with and without. The chicken was served in each tent. It tasted good with tangy curd flavor. When it comes to cooking - I know nothing beats Hukum. Ranjan is our next in command. A round of drinks were started in each tent. I was placed with Ranjan and Sanjay. Another group was - Prem, Abhishek and Rajeev Ji and the last one had - Hukum, Yash and Sandy. 

                                                                                       After a couple of Vodka pegs with Ranjan, Sanjay complained of fever. Abhishek also felt uneasy since he gulped two pegs of Vodka. I had one large peg of rum as life saver from the cold outside. Gorson was colder than I thought. Soon after, Abhishek vomitted. And, we came out of the tent, again around the dying fire in group. The much hyped talk was about Rajeev Ji and Sandeep - who asked everyone to vacate the tent to discuss something they labelled as - private. The food was served. And the day was called 'over'.

In our tents, everything was there except the sleep - the comfort of bed was required to get that much needed sleep. And, the first time sleeping bag users complained 'lack of sleepness'. Sanjay was shivering and we had to made him wear jacket. After sometime he felt comfortable and slept for a while. 

The morning was broken. It was 6 am. Some of us were out by now. We continue our journey after the breakfast to reach the pass. Quickly, the breakfast was served - bread, omelette, tea, coffee and our lunches were being packed. About 8 am, we left Gorson for Pass. This was going to be the most challenging day. We started to walk upwards toward the top, where me, Yash and Prem were last evening. The trail was clear - paved well through the bugyal. We were once again face to face with the mountains - walking along. Beeru made our arrangements for drinking water. And everybody reached Tali almost at the same time. Tali was way down, after crossing the Gorson Top, the path led into the forest again. It was a sight to spend some time. Beeru called it 'lunch time' here.

Hunger was hovering around everyone but the lunch was with the porters packed neatly into separate poly-packs. They were supposed to be carried by us but we decided not to carry it. Now, we were realizing the mistake we did. After a brief wait, Beeru decided to go and check out the situation. He was right in his assessment. Since the trail at descending side is steeper, the mules might have find it hard to cross it. The trail was thin at few places in between the stretch till Tali.

From Pass

Another round of gossips initiated as we awaited for mules to comeback. But they were nowhere near. Each one of us was exhausted. The environment once again glowed in our laughter - it echoed without itch. Beeru was back and so were our ammunition - to keep us going. Hukum declared he wont go to Pass and instead go with porters to our campsite Khulara. Yash, out of the ignorance, ate some plant roots thinking of Bear Grylls of Man versus Wild, and became victim of dehydration. On pretext of helping him, Prem, who was also exhausted by now, volunteered to accompany him. Sanjay was also looking for an escape but was dual-minded. Maybe he would be thinking about office - what if people would know that he didn't completed the Pass. He knew I would tell everyone that he didn't go. But I tried to assure him and asked - go, if you are actually comfortable or else go with Hukum to Khulara and rest. I knew he was struggling inside - fighting with fever and thinking of criticism.
     

By 1 pm we started walking again. Its now steep upward climb from here. The trail further narrowed. The rocky pavement soon begin. Rajeev Ji with amazing display of stamina was in the front - leading the group along with Beeru who was guiding us. I was at the tail's end - to help push Sanjay and look after him. Afterall he wasn't well. Sanjay gets easily agitated. He was fighting every moment to climb upwards. Ranjan was just before him. At one point of time he was also struggling but he was fine, somehow managing himself. The truth about an upward climb or trekking is that some people think that others are comfortable climbing while they are not. But the fact is, each one of the climbers are fighting within themselves. Its about mental will power - some have it strong while some give it up easily. I am glad that here nobody gave up. It was first time for both - so I can understand the feeling they were going through. 

from Dhak

At last the flag appeared. The top was visible. Beeru said, we have reached. This was about 4:40 pm around. The wind was piercing our body. Leaving me and Sanjay, each one of us started to climb down. Sanjay preferred to rest and I was busy clicking photographs. In the front was Panagarchula top, the rocks and stones all over it. It looked like a black mountain difficult to climb due to big boulders. To its left was Ronti Saddle, and extreme left were Dronagiri and Nanda Devi, by now, engulfed into the clouds. To my right and down-side was silver birch forest, shining. But the wind had made it hard for us to stand there now, making it miserable for us to stationed there. And we started to make our way back to Khulara. All downwards - the Khulara campsite was a plateau - but the steep downward climb was knee stressing. I think it was shortcut that Beeru made us do since we had time crunch. Finally, we reached Khulara and the Sun said goodbye. 

Vishnu Gad, coming from Tapovan

It was good thatYash and Prem took effort to light up the fire. It was glowing - truly a fire for a perfect campfire. We had tea, a round of soup then followed. It was better than the dampening cold of Gorson. But I had my muffler wrapped around my head and ears - the wind at the top gave me this headache, I told myself. Prem vacated his seat for me to warm up my bones beside the fire. It soothed my soul - his kindness and the lovely fire. We did not spend much time at the campfire, instead we chose to rest in our tents. Afterall we had walked some 16 kms today. Then came the same old situation - 3 tents, 3 groups, a round of Rum and sleepless night in the sack. The only feeling that kept us satisfied is reminding ourselves we made it to the top. With that grand feeling, we retired to sleep and wake up in our minds, eyes closed. 

All this while, I was thinking- once strangers, today we stand here like brothers. And this feeling came back again at the same place where this affair was started - ISBT, Delhi. Though, a winter trek in December is being planned by the group now but I don't know now if this same group will ever be able to unite again for another trek or not. All I can say however is that some of us have got friends for lives. And that's not anymore a happenstance.

(c) Himanshu
www.flickr.com/myth_drinker

Road to Rudranath Part 2/ Gopeshwar, Garhwal, Uttaranchal

It was around 5:30 in morning when I woke up after a deep sleep though my body still was aching. I came out from the dormitory onto the side balcony and stretched myself. It was still dark outside and silent. One could see the giant gate on right that welcome tourists while bus stand of Gopeshwar at the left. Gagan was up to, and then almost all one after another.

We refreshed ourselves and the Independence Day parade down on the road started with student representative from different schools marching with their school flags followed by other students in long queue.

School Parade, Independence Day. Also seen is the gaint gate in the backdrop.

One after another, the student of all class and size; boys and girls; in blues and reds and whites and greens; passed by like marching ants in perfect line and the teachers mandating the line and their behavior. I clicked few of them but there was low light. Meanwhile our time was ready and out for adventure. But there was no transport to drop us at Sagar to start our adventure.

We spotted a jeep, two fellows smoking and talking inside. They agreed to give us a drop for 100 bucks which we readily agreed for. Sanjeev and Mohit started to gag among themselves and then soon the environment became lively with Sanjeev and Gagan streaming in. I was enjoying quite much but we were late by some one and half hours. The time was 6:50 am. We reached Sagar some 6kms from Gopeshwar. The gate along the road says, ‘Rudranath Ji Mandir Ka Rasta - 22 kms’ and the small iron gate was locked. So we jumped.

Sagar, the start point of Trek

We met two locals on the way after walking 2kms. One was the meat-seller and was going to fetch some meat from Shepherds at Panar. The other one did not talked or introduced. They asked about us and asked us to join them to smoke ‘Bhangnath’ (Opium Grass). Mohit volunteered and took few drags. We started moving up again.

Next I remember meeting an old village woman (from Gangolgaon, a nearby village) who was also going to the temple. And we started walking along. Sanjeev was with me and the other three fellows were behind us. Me, Sanjeev and the old lady were walking along. Soon we reached a flat ground which was some 5kms from Sagar. It had one ‘Rudresh’ Dhaba. We decided to sit and wait for our companions to come. Soon they came and together we sipped upon tea and ate maggi.

Meat-seller (left) & his companion

The old lady took tea with us while awaiting for her companions from another village to come and join her there. Soon people flooded and we were like a herd of coloured sheep. The time was 9:50. We resumed our trek. The real trek starts from here. Till Panar, it was some 9kms sharp, steep uphill trek. The track was all muddy and quite slippery. Our eyes could see clouds approaching us fast. And in no time the downpour started gradually.

We had our raincoats out soon. We (me and Sanjeev) lost our companions (Mohit, Gagan and Sanjeev 2)) again and joined the villagers and a group of 6 students from IIT Roorkee. Sanjeev would often sit for rest, ask me to wait for him and make faces while cursing his life. In the meanwhile villagers were out of sight.

Sanjeev-2(green); Sanjeev (khaki) and Mohit (black) seen here with Villagers

I would ask him to speed up despite knowing that we were not in competition to anyone. Villagers any case have this competitive advantage over anybody who would occasionally go to such straight uphill treks. I was also feeling tired by now and the path between the damp land, slippery surface, dense forest and amidst fog and occasional rain won’t end. Besides, the other three were nowhere to be seen.

We must have covered some 6kms by now which total amount to be around 11-12kms. The time was some 1:30 now. We decided to halt down near a water source and eat the bread and butter that we were carrying. Now that we two were alone and all the villagers and even the IIT guys have disappeared.

Lots of water streams & falls were visibile along the route

After 20 minutes, we started again. Sanjeev was agitated. Resting too often. Asking me to slow down, shouting from behind. Me too was tired but I had to keep ourselves going. I was wondering how come everyone could get so much ahead of us that they become hardly visible from the place we were at. I doubted my capabilities too. We both were by now become so much negative. I was also worried about my fellows who were still down and assumptions surrounding my mind – Would they come along or just return back from there?

Sanjeev was not carrying any cell phone and my Idea connection displayed ‘no network coverage’.

Soon 3 villagers crossed us whom we asked about our fellows by giving them the description of them. To our shock we were told that our friends were still quite down. And, I again feared about them – if they would come or not.

Clouds floating upon the Valley

At 3 around we reached Lyuti Bugyal, and found little comfort in a small hut owned by Bisht Ji. We were half wet. It would rain sometimes and than after a flash it would go and then keep coming back and again. But at Lyuti, it got worse. It started raining hard. We took shelter under the roof. Sanjeev stretched himself on the big black plastic sheet spread over the dry grass as a mattress after eating. This was the only provision to sleep the night at Lyuti Bugyal. However, Lyuti was a plain terrace on the ridge on the chest of the mountain and the head was not too far now.

The head was the Panar, our destination for today. From Lyuti we started to march again after great resistance from Sanjeev, but I was adamant. As rain slowed down, we resumed. We would often sit and walk and then sit. We could feel our heart sinking. It was a state of breathlessness. We walk little, and get tired so we would sit down soon.

Fog & the Jungle

It was getting quite tough for us to climb with our bagpacks. It was cloudy all over and rain may comeback anytime soon, I said to myself.

Sanjeev at Lyuti Bugyal

We reached Panar finally, which was 2 kms from Lyuti, in more than one and half hour at 4:30 pm. It started to rain again and we moved to a hut nearby.

The guy arranged for our rest while we ordered for tea. We were dead tired having walked some 13-14kms overall. And, Sanjeev found his comfort over the mat, covered with blankets on the ground which was not certainly clean and smell of goat and sheep.

He covered himself with two blankets and retired to sleep. I retired soon after clicking few pics around and sipping tea. The time was some 5:10. The rain stopped and sunshine recovered.

Panar was the flat terrain of vast grassland, a plateau with 3 small huts that belonged to shepherds. Although only one was commercially operating. We slept however semi-conscious in the cold since it got chilling in the night and the surface under the mat was uneven and not true flat. It was not a good night I realized when often I woke up first at 2 am, then 3:20 and finally up at 5:30 at the sound of footsteps of ponies. Ponies made themselves comfortable under the steel shed outside our room which later I got to know were the forest property.

One of boys of the Hut at Panar

It was raining outside. Everyone else was sleeping. I suddenly remember some village girls were singing songs last night in the adjacent room which was not very much entertaining but then I had nothing else to listen to except the sound of rain drops on the steel shed and Sanjeev’s snoring.

I asked Sanjeev to get ready. In the meanwhile I ordered the guy in the hut, for a bucket of hot water to bathe and tea to drink. We were ready by 6:30 to do the remaining of the trek. Sanjeev suggested why not request the hut-guy to call up at Lyuti and ask whether our fellows are there or not.

I appreciated his point and requested the person. He agreed and sent his boy for the same. The boy would hold the reliance cell phone up in the air and locate for signals while walking towards a particular point where he knew signal would come.

Me @ Panar, awaiting to make call to Lyuti for my friends


I was with him and I managed to speak to my friends who rested at Lyuti Bugyal. I told Gagan to come up. Soon they were up in an hour while I sipped upon another tea and Sanjeev on phone with his ‘her’ on the phone that he borrowed from Sanjeev-2. I clicked few pics. It was pouring from the clouds though marginally.

Soon all three of them up were up and we rejoiced the moment of our re-union. I inquired with them why did they could not manage to reach Panar. The answer - Gagan was unwell. The other day he ate some 7-8 corns at a time despite my best efforts to stop him.

Sanjeev at the Hut, we stayed the night in room on left to the Hut (seen open window in the pic)

I giggled in my mind while Mohit smiled exposing his frontline teethes out of which one was missing. We left our bagpacks at Panar only and started for the road again. Road to Rudranath Ji, that is now more enjoyable with all 5 of us together. But soon this joy ended when again we begin to experience the tiredness but for me it was due to empty stomach. The time was 8:30 and we covered some 2kms from Panar.

Gagan leading this time shouted my name in excitement after seeing the gate that resembled the gate of the temple at Tungnath just before the temple comes at some 500 mtrs. Gagan thought we were almost there, at the temple. Little did he knew that temple is some 5-6kms from here.

Happy Trio (We met at Panar)

We walked along the hill side and after we cross this temple gate look alike, we were inside the valley. The trail first goes down and then along the hill side with front side (opposite to hill) opens wide. If weather would have been clear (no mist), one could see the great Himalayan ranges along the valley. But we preferred the rain drenched, wet muddy land and cloudy views over it so there we were experiencing it. We reached the temple at 12:30 around. Almost everyone that once walked with us the other day – the villagers, IIT boys and some others, were returning back.

Gagan overjoyed seeing temple gate

Villagers went to celebrate Poornima and Rakhi otherwise it is rare that people could be seen walking to Rudranath Ji due to this tough trek. Perhaps among the toughest of the treks in India. We waited for Mohit and Sanjeev to reach. Gagan suggested waiting so that we all could offer our homage to the deity, together. So we ordered for tea. It was raining again. I preferred not to come inside the hut or to sit beside the fire like Sanjeev-2 and Gagan did. I enjoyed standing out, watching people, sometimes the temple in the front on my left and enjoy the nature. The floating clouds could make you fall in love with the anomaly with which they change shape. All I could do is imagine with a thoughtless chase for them.

We all joined in to perform the ritual. We paid our homage to the Lord Shiva without His permission we could not have been invited here. We thanked the deity and sought His blessings. The priest gave brahamkamal to each one of us. And, then we were offered mahaprasad and invited to eat at bhandara the poorie-choley that I have been eyeing on since I saw people enjoying them. We five and Priest@ Rudranath Temple

They really tasted as good as the atmosphere was full of serenity and pureness. The drops from heaven, the vast grasslands and small purple flowers stretched all over, streams swelled with water flowing carelessly; and the face of the deity that has impressions I still could recall.

We started soonafter for come back to Panar. We dislocated again while coming back. I did it intentionally to preserve the scenes that I had experienced and was now exercising in my mind. I took some of best shots here while coming back.

Trail moving along the valley that leads to temple

Enroute Panar from the temple

Approaching Panar (Backview towards the temple)

Great Meadows & Vast Grasslands

Finally Panar

The weather was now that fine and rain stopped completely for the first time in last 2 days. The mist disappeared and it appeared all green all over. I was completely overjoyed. I would sometimes sit, sometimes lie down, smell the air, try to put it all in one go into my lungs and breathe out with ease. I was again thoughtless and chasing the views with my two eyes wide open.

Finally I reached Panar. Already Gagan and Sanjeev-2, had bundled themselves into sheets of blanket laid to rest. I ordered for milk. I wandered outside a little and then started to seek my place to rest.

Gagan & Sanjeev-2 comfotably numb

Soon, Mohit and Sanjeev also came. Sanjeev seemed to be in more painful state. I helped him in changing his wet clothes and he slept in between me and Sanjeev-2 as soon as he lay down. He looked unwell.

We were not sleeping and neither talking. This time we got our bedding within the hut all five of us in a row. We had walked today some 16kms and all wet and tired. We took moderate dinner on bedside only and then I took some hot milk.

Morning we all were up by 6 and started to come down from Panar. Sanjeev was in bad taste. Deprived of good food, and tired of walking. We all had swollen legs, blisters and we were wet again. The rain started again.

Going Down (Back to Sagar)

Raincoats did not help much. Infact to me it seems umbrella is much better an option. It atleast allows you to breath. We were chasing a trail downwards that would seem nowhere to be ending. But we knew it would end. While it was getting hard for us to get down due to slippery surface. Every now and then we would slip on the mud or get our shoes wet while crossing the streams.

It stopped raining just when we reached back to Sagar but now for all of us we would never stop discussing this experience with the people about this road to the temple of Rudranath.

Itinerary Description

Day 1: 14th August 2008 - Rishikesh @ 7 AM (Boarded On Bus from Delhi at 12 P.M on 13th which is some 260Kms), Took Bus for Gopeshwar @ 9:30AM, Reached Gopeshwar @ 4 PM (210 Kms from Rishikesh, raining whole day), Rest at GMVN dormitoary @ Rs. 100 per bed.

Day 2: 15th August 2008 - Gopeshwar to Sagar (6kms) by Jeep, Paid Rs. 100/- and started trek@ 7:30 AM to Rudranath (some 22kms on foot of which 7kms is very steep and tough) Reached Panar covering some 14 kms and Night Halt.

Day 3: 16th August (Rakhi & Poornima) - Started trek @ 8 around and reached temple after covering 8 kms at 1 PM, Paid our homage to Lord Shiva and started comeback, Came to Panar back @ 5 pm and clicked lots of pics enroute.

Day 4: 17th August - Started early morning @ 6 AM and reached Sagar by 12, took bus and reached Gopeshwar and after lunch for Rishikesh, Reached Rishikesh amidst heavy rains and lots of landslides enroute @ 9 PM. Boarded Bus for Delhi @ 10:30 p.m and reached back @ 6AM. Then office @ 9:40 AM… with swollen legs…very hectic!!!

© himanshu For more pics please visit www.flickr.com/myth_drinker

Road To Rudranath Part 1/ Gopeshwar, Uttarakhand

Just when I was busy deciding the itinerary for the upcoming trek to Binsar, near Thailisain in Garhwal, I received call from Gagan. He asked “where we’d go this time?”

I remember of having told him multi times about the Binsar plan including the last Sunday when I visited him and yet he asked. His vocal seemed to me low on enthusiasm and bitter as compared to my excited travel mood. How enthusiastically, I have been waiting for this Independence Day weekend to come and the chap now is asking 3 days before – where?

Sagar, this is where the trek starts from

I again narrated the set of the story to him and the itinerary that I was in the process of designing when in the middle he asked “Would that be really good? I mean like the Tungnath trip?” And, I begin to wonder what has triggered this comparison. Soon I understood there is no point exciting him with what Binsar might offer us. I gave up without resistance as he started to mention the Tungnath scenes which I thought useless to compare with Binsar. It is because the only commonality between them was that – both were the temple and form of Shiva, the deity.

And I suggested “let’s go to Rudranath”! This existed as an alternative option in my plan. I have been browsing a lot about this on the internet, and even consulted Manu, my friend, as well for his views on this trek. Since we had less time in hand I was less keen on doing the Rudranath trek and then I knew it’s a tough trek too.

We, the trekkers! (Five)

But, I asked Gagan to see some pics of Rudranath on flickr.com which he promptly did the same time. He exclaimed with a certain tone and enthusiasm “kya scene hai… mast hai yaar” and I knew that I will have to design a new travel plan now. Next day, I chatted with Manu on gmail, requesting him to prepare me a travel plan while I too was looking for the information on Net to plan the itinerary. He readily agreed and by next day mailed me the desired info.

Then just one day before at 7 in the evening, right when we had to leave for the trip on August 13 night, Gagan called up and said to postpone the trip to 14th night, since he needed a day to prepare and submit his MBA assignments.
Depriving me of this trip was unthinkable as I had prepared and planned it for quite much a time. Almost a quarter of people in my office know that I had planned a trip and which I would describe to them with sheer thrill. However, all this time, I forget to apply for leave and now I feared the tension about the grant of leave.

Villagers... moved really fast. Next day was Rakhi and Poornima...so these people want to offer tribute to Bhagwan Rudranath ! Though we wanted the same as well...

It was Bimla Madam whom I approached with my request for leave for two days with complete plans. I fear what if I might be asked to be present here for any meeting.. Bimla madam suggested writing a mail to Sir which I did after a small thought on what I should tell sir (that I want 2 leave for trekking and how he would have reacted. God, I was in big dilemma).

Parallel to this, there was this other group who was interested in coming along – Sanjeev and Mohit. Both were known to me for some 3 years almost. While Mohit had a limited interaction with me, Sanjeev would often call and tease me – where we would go, with a touch of emotional element. Sometimes duo would speak to me with weirdly excitement and I would smile within me thinking – how ignorant they were about my plans for trek!

While my conversations with Sanjeev and Mohit grew more regular regarding the trip, I found them pulling my legs more often when I would say would you guys be able to walk a lot since we were required to cover 22kms bare foot uphill climb. They would giggle and convey me their excitement with boast about their strengths that they thought I was underrating. And, I said to myself, how much ignorant these two fellows are?

I was clicking enroute, covered some 5-6kms so far

It was 11 pm August 12th night, Gagan came to my place. I suggested him to come over so that we two could sit together and prepare his assignments which we could only start at 1:00 a.m. around. I finished one by 2:40 a.m and went to sleep. Gagan slept too. In the morning at 5:00 around, I saw Gagan already up. Soon he prepared himself, we sipped our tea, and he was off to his college with promise to reach at ISBT Kashmere Gate by 10:30 p.m. Soon I started to load my bagpack.

I reached office and just when about to resume work, Sanjeev called up and in low tone spoke to me about his issue. It was about a life insurance policy that he was required to sell. Unless he would give some business today to his firm he was employed with, he can not dare go. He was given a dose from his boss who happened to be a strict lady this morning. To endorse his seriousness, he called up twice and then thrice and many times then till he took my words that I would help him to get a policy from my source when we comeback.

I wondered how much dependent people are on people. I wanted him to come along for the trip and he needed me to save his job. So we were interdependent instead of independent as I thought about it right when e-mailing my heartiest wishes to my seniors and colleagues at the office for upcoming Independence Day.

15th August @ Gopeshwar School students marching with pride shouting sologans 'Hamara Bharat Mahan'... Yes it is... Why though is not clear...

I reached Kashmere Gate at 09:50 p.m waiting for Sanjeev and Mohit who gave me their words to reach on-time. But they did not come by the said time and neither called up to give reason. Same happened with Gagan. Clock crossed 10:30 but he never bothered to call me. So first I called up Sanjeev, and he said in 10 minutes he would be there. Next Gagan did not picked up at all. After 15 minutes at 10:45, Sanjeev called up and asked for 2 more minutes. I was feeling very agitated. Sanjeev and Mohit arrived after some 12 minutes at 11:00 p.m. I gave a good lecture to both of them which I know would hardly have any impact on them but I delivered right there.

Next I called up Gagan. This time he picked up and said in 10 minutes he would reach citing that he has taken an auto and now awaiting his friend to come at Ashram Chowk, which I reacted with harsh words. I was infact determined to leave without him but somehow he got me believe in his words.

Walk through the dense forest amidst the mist ...and weather signaled RAIN!

And, next I called him up again at 11:30 to which he said “its raining here, I am struck up in traffic”! Another call I made at 12:15 wondering how much careless someone could be for not understanding somebody else’s feelings especially when this somebody is a long time friend. I was feeling irritated and could have left him to his fate but instead I continued giving lecture to Sanjeev and Mohit for their untimely time management. Gagan never bothered to call back to tell about himself. The one good excuse he would give every time I called was about the load of his assignments. Finally he reached with his friend named Sanjeev, a short heighted slim chap not looking very cheerful. After Gagan apologized then only I returned back to my normal taste. Now we had two ‘Sanjeev’ – 1 & 2.

We boarded the U.P Roadways bus at 1:00 am for Rishikesh which was some semi-full. In the bus I introduced them to each other and soon we went into trance called sleep though awake individually.

Bisht Family, we met at Lyuti Bugyal, after walking some 11 kms. The time was 3:20 pm.

We reached Rishikesh at 7 a.m on 14th morning. Next we walked up towards the Tehri bus stand of Rishikesh to get our bus to Gopeshwar with our bag packs. I again resumed my lecture and aggression for having started late from Delhi and having missed the 4 a.m Uttarakhand Roadways bus to Gopeshwar. The group listened and ignored and chose to sit down for breakfast.

Me and Gagan took bananas – 3 each, while rest of the team had Choley Bhatoore and Paranthas. I was continuously pushing them to rush up the things to reach our destination on time. But who cares!

Our time management was poor. So often we had clash. I try to drive them fast while they maintained their own pace. The problem with me was that I wanted us to reach as soon as we could, while my fellows did not seemed interested in the itinerary planned and had laggard approach. It was the clash of seriousness with non serious and leisure type attitude which I and my fellows - both did not like.

Sanjeev-1 pretty much at comfort at Bisht's until i said we wont stay here and have to move to Panar. He was depressed walking for so long hours since 7:20 am.

At 9:00 am we boarded G.M.O.U bus to Gopeshwar which started at 9:30. Like most of the drivers, he also displayed the state of no emotions and smoked. We passed Devprayag where we had kadi, choley and chawal; Srinagar, where me and Sanjeev-2 got down for SBI ATM Service; Rudraprayag, where we tasted some sweetmeat and; Nandprayag where the bus conductor informed us to board another bus already waiting, for rest of the journey. The swapping was done due to less onboard passengers. But soon others poured in.

Panar, finally!

The distance between Rudraprayag and Nandprayag was some 40kms that covered Gauchar enroute; moving along the river Alaknanda from Srinagar though I missed out most of the sight seeing in between as I fall prey to the lord of the sleep. I woke up as the bumber of the bus jerked and i feared about my camera which was just above it little above over the rear tyres of the bus and saw the watch. It was for 25 minutes that i had slept total but that was effective. We guys haven't had slept for last night whole and this day whole.

God, we look like zombies... No, the smiling zombies! At 5 pm we reached our destination Gopeshwar. We got out of the bus and i lead them to GMVN for accomodation. We took the dormitory @ 80/- per chap. The best part was the room that had only 5 beds which perfectly fit our group size and allowed no scope for for more people. Almost all of us damn tired but showed no weakness or ailing sign. We refreshed ourselves and went down to the market which starts where the GMVN's stairs end, hunting for GOOD food. we have been surviving on biscuits and namkeens and on a shared i-pod!

Back to back... starting our trek from Sagar :) at 7:20 am

It felt great. Mohit brought the bottle of Old Monk out of the bag and some of us said Cheers!

See Part 2 / Road to Rudranath for the next half of this 'wet, on-the-run story'....