Superunknown / Binsar Mahadev, Pauri Garhwal, Uttarakhand

Binsar means bin-sar (without head) that's what priest told me when enquired why this temple is called Binsar. Not to be confused with the Binsar in Sauni near Ranikhet, and nor with the place called Binsar in Almora; this place is largely unknown. Though I have heard of this temple many times when my father mentioned and also from some known villagers at different point of time, and though a friend named Kiran Rawat, who had once confirmed me the route and location. But the tour planning came into existence when i met 'kashmiri uncle' during my first visit to Manilla Devi in Salt region of Almora. I got the first hand feel of the Binsar Mahadev temple from him only who referred it as 'Bindeshwar Devta'.

It was October 2008. Me and Arun, a fellow traveller, were on a trip to Maanila and Diba (Divakhal). It is from here after visiting Maanila we decided to go further to Sarainkhet - the last village of the Kumoan region on this belt. And from here to Uffrainkhal in Garhwal, some 20 kms from Sarainkhet. It is here Kashmiri uncle owns a small grocery store and a set of two small rooms, while he has rented out kitchen part to a fellow villager who runs a small eating joint. Kashmiri uncle got his name after he came back from Kashmir where he was serving in the army, and now lives peacefully in Uffrainkhal managing his shop. If i know him correct he has no family, or atleast not known to me but then i never enquired as well. I could assume because i saw him sleeping in the closed compound of his shop during my stay at two different times.

It was a day before Holi in Feb. 2011 when we started our this tour from Delhi Anand Vihar ISBT at about 7 pm. As usual we were looking for Gagan - all three of us - Rajeev Ji, Sanjeev and me. This is my second trip with both but with Gagan, i've been very frequent. Afterall we are friends since our graduation days! So i knew him better in one way. As usual he came when i bus was about to leave. We were already inside. It was mad rush - everybody wants to board the bus to make it quite a Holi-day with their families and friends. And then came Gagan at last just when me and Rajeev ji were deciding to get down off the bus or continue the ride without Gagan. But Gagan can't be left, and soon we foursome were chit-chatting. The smiles on our face didnt last long and at Garhmukteshwar we found our bus creeping in the traffic-jam. After a while it stopped creeping as well, when driver switched-off the engine and tried to catch up with sweet little sleep, a power nap like, resting his head over the steering and uplifiting his white shawl to cover up himself well. Almost every passenger got off the bus except women and children and the drunkards - to prevent the mosquito bites, and some like us to see how much time this jam gonna take? So me and Rajeev ji started walking towards the small bridge over the Garh-Ganga. The road was completely jammed with tractors, three-wheelers and village folks everywhere on both the sides of the road with white jerricans filled with holy water from Ganges. The moon looked lovely, it was a colourful sight - headlights of the vehicles, colorful people walking and Rajeev ji busy photographing objects like such. We went till the bridge, and came back to find everyone sleeping and some chatting up about the situation inside bus. We climbed up on the bus-roof and sat there for a while discussing our experiences. Afterthat we came down when our adrenaline level came down. After about 4 hours around in the traffic jam, we drove off further. It was about 5 am around we crossed Moradabad. By 9:30 we reached Ramnagar. The driver - an old man in late 50's looked tired and cautious.
We reached Uffrainkhal via Marchula, Dotiyal and Sarainkhet at about 6:30 pm, and straightaway went to Kashmiri uncle. He instantly recognised me, and we exchanged the greetings. That evening we spent with village folks who invited us over to be the part of Holika Dahan (burning of Holika - a ritual represented through a bon-fire sort with people playing color around it to express happiness of winning over the evil). There were no colours but showers of expressions particulalry among the ladies. Soon after the fire was lit, people especially, children started to dance around it. They had placed the speakers on the compound of their village temple just near to the fire. It was a pleasant sight. And the warm fire soothed us to our bones.

After about half an hour, we went to eat at kashmiri uncle's, where another uncle who has hired kashmiri's place, served us with food. It was quite a delicacy, and we ate hearty meal. Me and Gagan decided to take a round and went back to the fire. By then all have gone. It was all ashes, hot enough to keep us talking in the cool breeze of the night. We humans always have something to talk about. Don't we? And about 9 we retired to sleep - me and Sanjeev in one room and Gagan - Rajeev ji in the other, next to us.

Next morning, we were up early. Our taxi driver that we booked to get a drop till Chounda, after Jagatpuri, was on-time. He appeared to be in hurry, citing Holi as a reason which he excitedly mentioned again and again. Infact he suggested that we should play Holi with villagers and taste Bhang (a drink that uses opium seeds). which we politely rejected. Uncle packed us some paranthas for the route knowing that there is nothing in between we will get to eat. Soon we find ourseleves on-foot marching up with enthusiasm. Some 6 kms trek from here will lead us to Binsar Mahadev temple. Alternate route is from Peethsain via Thailisain from where the distance to the temple is 9kms which is mostly downside. But here we were climbing up!

The path was clear and civilisation ended after walking some 2 kms. We made the headway towards the jungle the four of us - talking, laughing, criticizing and making noise. And then came the turning point. After walking about more than 5-6kms, we still did not had any clue about the location of the temple. Meanwhile the path that we were following was completely vanished into the small dry stream that was all rocks and mud. It was about 1 pm and we were in the interior of the dense jungle, without anyone to guide us. I would often go here and there to locate the route thread but nothing that i could find there. Rajeev ji looked exhauted. He had this knee trouble that makes it hard to walk. The fact also was that he had just got up after Chikunguniya, about a month ago. Agitated, he shouted, "think, we have families to take care of". Gagan too said "lets go back". Sanjeev was cool though. I was hard pressed to see the temple. I was longing for it now quite some time. I wondered if the Lord Shiva doesn't want us to be in His temple. But why? And I begain to locate the route.

After 15 minutes, the route was spotted. It was just above us, over our head, a brief steep climb through that dry stream which we climbed using our hands on the rocks. In another 20 minutes, we were at the temple - more than happy and thanking God for His kindness on us. "Maybe He was testing us" said Gagan!

The temple dated back to the time of Vishwakarma maybe some 2000 years ago, who made this temple of Lord Shiva - why, though not known exactly. There is a small symbol on the front gate of the temple to its left which the priest referred to as writing of Vishwakarma himself. With great pride he said, a team of German-British people visited this place and took a wax imprint of the writing alongwith, maybe to decode its meaning. We quickly bathed. The water was ice freezing, cold enough to make me scream once.

We prayed for about half an hour and then ate the paranthas, that uncle packed for us. Rajeev ji streched himself on the slab of the temple at the courtyard; Gagan was praising the chants, Sanjeev and me eating, playing with the dogs and clicking snaps. It was 3 pm and weather started to get bad. And we knew the time has come to bid goodbye to His Holiness and after our tea at the temple premise, we started to come down.

As we started our journey to comeback, I suddenly remember, i've brought some Gulal (color) to play Holi. I gave the packet to the priest. He smeared it upon himself and to the diety in the temple, and finally smeared it on our forehead. It was truely a moment that i cherished, afterall we came to play Holi with the Lord Shiva. This was the feeling - the fragrance of purple Abir, and the sweet smell of oks and birch and the perfect quietness - nobody spoke and i could hear the thunderbold hoard after a pause. The roar got strong and we knew we have to now get started.

Itinenary:

Day 1: Left Delhi @ 8 p.m - Ramnagar (11 a.m because of Jam at GarhMukteshwar)- Dotiyal (Manilla Devi) - Sariankhet - Uffrainkhal (at 6 p.m). Celebrated Holi-Dahan with Village folks. Night Halt at Kashmiri uncle's place.

Day 2: Jeep to Chaunda via Jagatpuri from Uffrainkhal (some 16 kms). Started trek. Reached Binsar temple covering 6kms. Night halt

Day 3: Back to Delhi by 10 p.m

(c) Himanshu

Thank You Silence/ Maanila Devi, Almora, Kumaon

These days – I wish they could just pass away fast. I could not finish my thesis, or concentrate well on my office work. And, I was feeling ugly and waste. I would rather think than talk, looking at various permutations and combinations to find out time to finish the pending tasks. In this ordeal, I would mostly blame ‘the time’ for being responsible for my such state. Time – where to dig it from. But the real problem was not the time but being lazy. And I deemed it as “probably the mind needs rest” just like the locomotive engine when exhausted; and started to plan a brief and quiet trip, just alone.

Maanila Sunrise

Not much time have passed since Rupin Pass trek which I did with handful of friends some 3 months back. However I still can not say if I enjoyed it or not. Probably it had no feeling – only hard feelings like a stone – which could be one reason I never attempted to write Rupin’s account and just uploaded few pics at my flickr account.

But today, I must leave if I have to encash upon two consecutive holidays lined up as part of closing ceremony of 19th Common Wealth Games in Delhi.

With my backpack, I reached office, amidst the grazing eyes of office staff nibbling at me weirdly and commenting at my back. But isn’t that the same I think about them and pity – for they never know the real life; being so lost in this prison system. And my wait started for clock to hit 6 pm though I have been busy throughout the day to prepare and release an ad for the day after.

Marchula - Near Ramnagar

Sachin Tiwari – a fellow colleague in our marketing group proposed to drop me at Anand Vihar. An offer too tempting to resist. Going with him will save me time, and will be really easy and fun. Thanks to him, I reached on time at the bus terminus. If he wouldn’t have dropped me, I would have missed my bus to Ramnagar. He has been a driving force behind writing this trip’s account too, asking me...pushing me to write. Though it’s hard to say – if he loves to read my blog or is it his wife who likes to read things about hills as he quoted some times.

Between Dotiyal to Maanila Devi

Well whatever – this blog is for both of them – the hilli-billies.

Ramagar at 4 am was unusually cold or was it the journey discomfort that sucked all my energy. What a crowded bus it was! Travelled 250 kms sitting on the tool-box just next to the bus door. The conductor Sharma Ji – as Sardar Ji, the driver, quoted his name often times did not even gave me the ticket leaving me to wonder – who has been lucky really? – Me or him.

Me, because I got the bus otherwise my linking bus from Ramnagar to Maanila would have left. Him, because he had an extra income of Rs. 180 multiplied by 2 i.e. me and a kid who was traveling alone, and was made to share single seat with Shrama Ji.

Silver or Sand – Sharma made his silver quite well and for me it’s the sand.

Arun Bhadola, in Joyful Mood

I missed the first bus due to the bully crowd that possessed the bus to Naagchula-khal from everywhere.

I jumped into another bus – another KMOU (Kumoan Motor Operators & Users) – private bus affiliated to state transport authority. Small bus with unclean windows, dim lights, unorganized seating arrangement, with people glued to their seats especially the women while their men did the shopping like fruits, sweetmeats etc on their home-coming.

I was seated at the end of the bus and adjacent to the last bench of the bus that had young women seating in row chatting-up, crazy. Thick smoke came from the front – old men puffing bidis – a normal sight for anyone who frequently travels to hilly regions. So this finding was no amusement I decided to step down. Till this time nobody knew when the bus will take-off. 6:30 a.m came the voice just when I was negotiating the price of apples with the Muslim oldman vendor who had no time to look at me.

Rath Khal

I looked at my watch – 5:00 a.m – still one and half hour to go. I do not know when sleep overpowered me after we crossed Garjia temple barrack. I had choley-chai (snacks) at Marchula some 40kms from Ramnagar at 8:30 around, where the bus stopped. I murmured - not as good as they used be. 9:30 a.m and we are to reach Molley-khal that was another 18-20 kms and then another 12 kms to reach Dotiyal, the place where I have to get down.

Road, Rath-Khal Afterwards

I reached Dotiyal at 10:20 a.m. and instantly recognized Arun Bhadola – a known from our village area. The tall, young man in his early 30s, wearing half sweater waved at me, smiling, as if he has found some treasure inside a coal-mine. I was glad he kept his promise to be with me for this trip. And we two had chai-samosa, typically kumaouni style, topped with raita (curd) and chutney. Delicious, I said while Arun nodded in yes. We started walking towards Maanila Devi temple some 8 km neat stretch from Dotiyal with pine trees both sides.

Maanila Devi Temple (Talla)

We reached Rath-Khal after some 4 km of walk towards the Maanila Devi temple. Another stop and another round of tea and snacks. The air was invigorating, and refreshing with smell of pine. I stretched my lungs to fill the fragrance inside. I have always loved it. We continued to march further on the road with Himalayan view on our left but mostly hidden behind large tree trunks of pines and the silver-birches. It looked like a perfect country side – a nice road, no bus but sometimes few jeeps would pass us and no one’s walking along. Only the loud sound of Garhwali songs playing on the Max mobile handset of Arun in the bright afternoon sun shining high over our heads. A perfect sight, a sheer pleasure and no mental effort.

The Idol of Maanila Devi

We reached the temple at 2:30 pm walking at dead slow pace photographing, chatting and enjoying ourselves thoroughly. We paid our homage to the deity, sat inside the temple for few minutes and planned our comeback. Arun suggested taking jeep to Malla-Maanila – another Maanila Devi temple.

The cab was full and we decided to get down at Rath-Khal. We walked to the market down the road. Luckily the guy agreed to made us Chowmein that tasted really very salty and raw but we tucked it all in. Arun then purchased a quarter of Rum from here citing tiredness as reason. We started to walk towards again on the same road to pay our homage to Malla Maanila. The temple is situated on the ridge and the place was colder than I thought looking at the October sky.

While walking towards the temple, Arun narrated the story behind. Maanila, the Goddess, is the deity of the Salt region in district Almora of Kumaon, Uttarakhand from a long time.

Temple Premise of Talla Maanila

It is believed that Goddess used to talk to the priest of the temple. Then one day, the king of Garhwal, ordered his men to bring the deity to his court from where it is placed in Talla Manilla.

It is said that when King’s men came to take the Goddess; the Goddess raised an alarm to wake up the priest but priest and his family continued to sleep. The Goddess then played a trick with King’s men who came to fetch the idol that night. The weight of the idol of the Goddess became too heavy and King’s men could take the idol only till Malla Maanila.

Malla Maanila

By this time, the morning has broken and fearing that they will be caught; King’s men left the idol there and ran away. Since then the Goddess never spoke to the priest again despite retaining her original place. Another version of the story is extended. While King’s men had put the heavy idol of Maanila down to rest for a while at Malla Maanila, they could not lift it back despite doing their best efforts. Fearing that they would get caught as the sun begins to rise; they tried to cut the finger to take it with them as a proof to king of their loyalty. They did it with great difficulty but by that time they saw the priest and the villagers chasing them, so they ran away with the finger of the Goddess.

Maanilla Devi, the deity, got upset with the people of the region for not protecting her and never again she spoke to the priest or anybody.

Idol of the Goddess at Malla Maanila

Well that was the story, and whatever was the story; leave that to history books or to the talking heads. Just go and visit the place to experience a change. The perfect tranquility and bliss, and don’t forget to thank the silence!

Itinerary (by Roadways Bus): Friday Night: Delhi–Ramnagar (250 kms. approx 6-7 hours). Road is really poor between Kashipur and Ramnagar.

Saturday: Reach Doti-yal (80 kms approx 3:30-4 hrs.) by 10 a.m. Stay at Forest Rest House or book KMVN in advance. The KMVN caretaker was missing throughout the day when we went. According to sources he has tie-up with this private hotel manager who belongs to a localite of the area and helps push the tourists to this private hotel to earn his commissions.

KMVN, locked and uncared

Private hotel option is just one option available who normally charges Rs. 400-500 per night. The hotel offers Himalayan view though rooms are dingy and very basic. We got the room for Rs. 300 on negotiations but then they charged extra 100 bucks on meals. Forest Rest House is perfect option in terms of cost (Rs. 100 a room for night) and location (at the hill-top on a ridge).

Forest Rest House

Sunday: Back to Delhi or further ahead some place with me.
© Himanshu