Embrace or Conquer / The Lord Within

This morning while getting hooked onto Sadhguru's youtube channel, I came across the one polite answer to the debate whether we should embrace or conquer. Embrace means "being one" with your goal; conquer is "to fight" whether you love it or not. My thoughts begin to dwell. Do I embrace the mountains or is it merely a quest to conquer? Frankly, I still don't know the answer. Can't even guess.

Ariel View of Saari Village

White debating between Dhakuri Trek or Tungnath, I chose the later one. Although I knew Hukum will miss this winter fun, but then I was unsure if we would get snow at Dhakuri top or not. Hukum's visit is unavoidable and we as group had only 3 days in hand. Being at both the places before, I knew Dhakuri does not offer any better motivation than Tungnath. A vibrant temple, with Chaukhamba on its mount that's how it was. And I have been there twice before. But at times Chilta temple looked to me more beautiful and inspiring when I take a moment to imagine how nice was it sitting at the temple stairs, watching the view in the front and sweet breeze blowing through the hair, and the sound of hustle of the leaves. Anyway, Tungnath was mutually decided by group. What was undecided within me is - to embrace or conquer.

Temple before Deoria Taal

Kuldeep Rawat, Darshan Negi, Anuj were joining us for the first time. Kuldeep Rawat, a jovial man with glowing face in the late 30's appeared fresh and happy and rum fragrant from his mouth. I got to know Sandy and Kuldeep had a cheerful party a while ago to celebrate this togetherness. Darshan, also in his late 30's is slightly reserve but a positive man with great faith in god and humanity. Anuj is my office colleague, a light hearted man with good heart but someone who needs direction  every now and then. Rest the crew was same - Ranjan, the loudest man on Earth; Sanjay, the live show (post his drinking); Sandy, the drinking machine, Yash, the soluble sugar (gels with everyone); Abhishek, the inquisitive mind with tongue for coffee; Prem, the man "always on fire" and blackberry. 

R to L Ranjan, Abhishek, Anuj, Sandy, Darshan, Sanjay, Kuldeep, Yash & Prem

The Guptkashi bus dropped us at Ghat at 10 a.m around, comfortably. The hired jeep took us to Ukhimath GMVN, our destination for the day. After quickly refreshing up, we decided to have quick meal and then off to Deoria Taal. After all, we had full day. Ukhimath market has a feel - looks like a typical hamlet on a ridge crowded with colorful shops, loud music playing on stereo, the rambling sound of Mahindra jeeps, and  their drivers taking a smoke break, people chitchatting about economic condition of the state, or simply bathing themselves in warm sun. We had a quick but heartily lunch. The jeep continued it journey towards Sari village, the place I knew well before. A steep climb of 2 kms around from here will take us to the taal. Deoria Taal is famous of its reflection of Chaukhamba that many enthusiast photographers attempt to capture through their lens. While reaching for Deoria Taal, we saw school children coming down after their 'picnic'. About 3 p.m we also reached the spot. The mesmerizing Chakhumba showed it aura - the snow clad tips of the four-sided peaks is truly a delight to see. And the photo session began. How I wanted to sleep here in this sunshine, in the shadow of the mighty mountains overlooking the lines along the water body. But the sun was setting. 

Deoria Taal

The crew came back to their dormitory beds at GMVN Ukimath, right on their spots except some of us who went for the groceries for the trek next day to the temple of the lord Tungnath ji. Soon after the happy times began. Kuldeep bhai inaugurated the evening lamp session of "somras" - very much required to negotiate with the heat of the day. Darshan bhai was still silent until he had few glasses going inside his throat right into his passage to stomach. Sandy as usual was the bartender with his "heavy machine pegs" that he labelled as 'little little'. In now way, those pegs were little, infact, each peg was over 90 ml dose - I can confidently say that.

Negotiating the Snow enroute Tungnath temple trek

But since he do not prefer to listen 'No', so everyone included me gulped the first round. Sitting over drinks with Sandy is like a heavy weight boxing championship- you are being knocked out each moment with his 90 mls peg till you finally say - everything here is revolving, so is the leg of the chicken we brought from Ukhimath market for the evening that GMVN cook Negi and Chamola had made for us. Only Prem is able to take those punches but I bet even he is grasping for breath after a few pegs. I recall Prem also refused to accept the pegs made by Sandy soon after. As for us - the poor fellows - it doesn't matter who makes the peg - Sandy or somebody else. Anyways, we have to drink till the revolving feeling starts engulfing us in its cloud. Morning next day, we got to know Kuldeep bhai was declared as the "winner of the championship" that lasted for over four gruesome hours. The winner of the battle showed no proud-ness for this achievement but Sandy did. We made fun of him since he was over drunk and revolving on the dinner table. That was the only time I saw gap in Sandy's feeling for chicken - he could not eat. He hardly ate any.

Ganesha Temple, 500 mtrs before the emple

Enroute Tungnath Temple Trek

Next morning Kuldeep bhai gave the jars of dry fruits that he was carrying. We made pocket pouches for all. Hired jeep came to receive us. A drop to Chopta and back was agreed for Rs. 1000. After an hour's travel, covering some 30 kms we reached Dugalbitta - the snow spread carpet did not allowed jeep to go any further. That's what I wanted too - to walk. After all that's what we all are here for.

The snow started to get thick - all over the place - as we walked through the jungle patch. The sun was up too. Covering some 2.5 kms on jungle trail, we reached Chopta. The path was well charted - no possibility of confusion. By that time, all my share of dry fruits were already inside my belly. The appetite was back again and at the only open tea shop, we ordered paranthas for all. The activity took fair amount of time and realizing that we started climbing the real part of the trek - towards the temple. By the time we reached half way, each one of us grasping for breath. Sandy was leading, Yash was managing group in between, Sanjay and Ranjan following the tail clicking photographs. Kuldeep & Darshan bhai asked me second time how much more does it require walking? where is the temple? The usual answer is - a bit more and we are there. But we were only half way. It was almost 1 pm and we still not been able to reach the temple though we started from chopta after our parantha session at about 11:20 a.m. But we are not in hurry. In fact idea is to enjoy every bit of it - the white space spreading all over the area - the white snow patches, the shining high Choukhamba and the warm-hearted fellow members joking, talking, coughing and puffing.

The temple bell rang. Abhishek was murmuring something over his phone - video recording. Me and Ranjan tried looking at the Akash-kund and got ourselves ankle deep into the snow. I hate it when snow gets into your shoes and starts melting in through with the heat of the feet. In awe, I tried to tell Ranjan not to come here at akash kund, but he was close already. We reached the temple and suddenly everything was completely holy. As if we are on some pilgrimage. Only thing bothering us is now our dry throats - no water and all snow - taking us nowhere. It was there I remember to be carrying apples that we took as part of trek grocery. Half apple for each - made our day. The worth of a half apple you know when you are standing at 13,000+ feet with no water around.And then we did what you can choose to call as nasty - our classic and cult bare chest photograph - right in the snow desert, in front of the temple. It is something crazy, weird but made us all come together. The ultimate fun. The barometer of our unitedness. The celebration of togetherness - does not matter if we were embracing it or conquering it. And to this day even the quest continues. 

Later that evening another round of championship was initiated and this there were all chicken legs in the pan and all over my plate. 

Plan in brief:

22nd evening: Delhi-Guptkashi bus via Rishikesh covering a distance of about 400 kms. Reached Ghat at 10 a.m. Stayed at GMVN Ukhimath. Visited Deoriataal - 2 kms trek from Saari Village. Approx 16 kms from GMVN Ukhimath. 

23rd - Tungnath Trek - 5.5 kms in total from Dugalbitta, and 3 kms from Chopta

24th - Holy dip at Rudraprayag 

25th morning - office ... no Christmas holiday for us  :(

for more info on Tungnath Click here 

(c) Himanshu

Shiva, Spirituality and Sumeru / Kedarnath

O' ruler of Kedar, the Lord supreme

I come to you for thy blessings,

For the sins I have commit, for the penance I seek.

For the eternal beauty of thyself and the creation,

I bow my head and seek refuge in your shrine,

May the light of your glory bathe me,

Let the mountains standing say it,

Blessed is your abode,

Blessed are the feets for they bring me to you,

Now that I have left,

but I never have left truely,
Call my name again O' Lord,

And make me bow to you again.

The word 'Kedarnath' through search on Google shows about 1,590,000 results. For the ample info that is available on Internet, I planned to only upload selective pics that I have taken during my journey.

My experience, I have summed up already through the Dedication above. However, the spiritual experience is unique and can not be summed up in words, and depends person to person. Try to get one for yourself.

Garud-Chatti and Kedar Parvat

Kedar-Dome

Way to The Shrine of Kedarnath

Massif of Sumeru

View from Ram Bada

Bells at Bhairav Temple - 1kms from the Shrine

Bhairav Devta

Itinerary followed:

Delhi - Guptkashi - Gaurikund (on eve of Dusshera 2011)

Gaurikund (evening 4 pm, raining) - Ram Bada (7 Kms) Night halt @ Kali Kamli Dharamshala

Ram Bada - Kedarnath Shrine (7 kms) Night halt @ GMVN

Kedarnath - Gaurikund. Took Holy Dip in the Kund. Gaurikund - Guptkashi (30 kms) by Jeep. Guptkashi - Rudraparyag (70 kms) by Bus. Night Halt.

Jeep to Rishikesh at 6:30 am. 11 am bus to Delhi. Reach by 7 pm.

Himanshu

For more pics, kindly visit: www.flickr.com/myth_drinker

The Immortal Tulips / Buda Madhmaheshwar

This year has been fortunate and very kind to me. I have had good dose of hiking in the mountains. But I aspire more. Madhmaheshwar (2750 mtrs.) is long due, and its been on my list from quite sometime. The feeling grew more than ever after going through Bhavik Thaker's flickr pics of the place. I was completely mesmerized with the pic that has fog all over the place and clouds floating in the valley and glaciers in the backdrop shining all-white. It reminded me of the Rudranath trek that we did in August 2008.

Imagination started to catch up fast. Mountains. Glaciers. Greener than green forest. Swollen water-falls. And, gushing Madhu Ganga. Picture after picture. And the day was set. 15th July night. We left Delhi late around 1 a.m from ISBT Kasmere Gate. Me, Rajeev Ji, Gagan, Sanjeev & Gaurav. The bus-ride between Delhi to Haridwar was smooth. I managed to get some sleep though in pieces. We changed bus at Haridwar. Haridwar-Rishikesh stretch was a complete misery. It rained hard and bus was in worst health, with water oozing from everywhere. A couple of foreigners onboard were excited looking at the real India.

From Rishikesh, we booked a cab to Ukhimath for Rs. 3000. Then from here boarded G.M.O.U bus for Uniyana at about 4:30. Due to the cracked road, the bus had to stop before Uniyana and a km long steep trek awaited us to climb. We reached Uniyana at 6:30 p.m. And halted for the night, retired to sleep after a spicy hot meal. It was still pouring, though slow. Next day, 6:30 am, we started our trek. At places, there were waterfalls on the road. Big enough for us to think how to cross them without water getting into our shoes.

We reached Ransi around 9 a.m chit-chatting and walking slowly, covering merely 3 kms. At Rakeshwari Devi temple we paid our homage. And took our breakfast. We resumed our journey again to reach Gaundhar that was only 6 kms away. It was all-down and passed through the forest on serpent-trail trek that must had some 8-10 bends. It was here the rain grew heavy and drenched us all. We soaked all of it happily. Soon clouds floating over the valley, and gushing of Madhu Ganga down below could be heard. Fragrance of Earth mixed with mist and cool wind could be felt. The air dived into my lungs through a long breath.

We continued walking, and reached here around 12 p.m very easily at our moderate pace. It is here we ate our lunch. What a hearty meal it was! Hot and light, with lots of ghee over it. It was a traditional Garhwali dish that was soft greenish fluid just like palak. I was the first one to eat, in the kitchen besides the fire. The owner, Bharat Panwar offered to make some dal and sabzi for others on the pretext that he had made that traditional food for themselves so some taste-buds might not approve such food.

Everybody ate heartful except Gagan who is choosy in what he eats. And journey once again resumed at about 2 p.m. 2 kms after Gaundhar was the bridge that leads you to Bantoli. From here the actual trek starts. And we found ourselves getting to the other side of the hill. 9 kms- all climb but beautiful valley-side that opens up but only at the temple which is a plateau. Thick fog engulfed us but the downpour looked refreshing. We maintained our pace and tried to minimise breaks. And we reached Khachrakhal where we sipped upon piping hot tea at a hut-shop. It was raining heavily.

Then came after another 3-4 kms the place called Nanu. Another tea break, we had, chitchatting. Now that the valley has started to broaden but still supressed with the dense forest. But it gave us clear glimpse of the mountain glaciers to our right, north-face. It was like breathing got easy. Soon the rain had stopped. We reached another spot called Maikhamba after walking another 3kms. From here the distance was 3 kms to the temple but the forest grew wilder. The time was 6:00 pm almost and we were worried to reach the temple before sun sets and night stretches itself.

The sunset looked stunning. Molten gold shining over the peaks. Sweet breeze over touching our wet hairs. And occassionly I would shiver with the chill. We were wet and tired by now. The walk that was once pleasant till Gaundhar, now suddenly started to appear monstrous. The path always somehow seem to have yet another bend. And the bends kept on turning us and climb got steeper. We were now kind of fed up with walking. And wondering, if we would be able to make it to the temple today.

Gagan offered some toffees that really saved us from that sinking feeling. But the fear of the dark loomed. A very thin ray of the Sun that is too fainting slowing and the endless jungle that offered bends and bends every now and then, of course not without hiccups. We could hear the voice of our breathing. The last stretch was like - a road that never ends. And we were like - a rider who remains hopeful to see his destination at the very next bend. But in our case, the enthusiasm had died by now and hopes were getting feeble with every step.

Before this last ray of the sun could disappear and before the moon winks at us and takes up the charge for the night; we heard the temple bells. Overheard it once again, and then once again. I could hear the voice over the loudspeaker praising chants of Lord Shiva. Enough for us to charge our legs. And the sound of the loudspeaker echoed once again. Temple was merely at the distance of 300 mtrs now. We rushed to attend the evening ritual - arti - that has started. A quick wash at the tap next to the temple - in the icy cold water that sent shivers to the spine. Inside temple, were few people. An elderly couple, who passed before us. And some locals who are stationed at the temple itself, including the young South-Indian priest. It was damp inside the temple, infact overall the place was cold and damp. I realised this sitting over a cots-wool mat observing the temple from inside. In the sanctum sanatorium, only the priest and his aide could enter. Slowly and steady, i found myself lost in the sweet aroma of dhoop and the chants dedicated to the lord Shiva. Next moment I was crying thinking that Lord took 2 years to invite me to His abode, His holy shrine named Madhmaheshwar, despite my best efforts.

My urge slowly and steadily came down, after a while and I felt at ease. Priest offered us all prasad and the ceremony came to an end. We took refuge for the night in the mandir samiti's dharamshala and didn't care to negotiate with others who were offering more cheaper and better options that that. Afterall we all were dead tired.

Next morning, we started early to visit Buda Madhmaheshwar to see Chaukhamba some 2.5 kms trek though a bit steep. It was a plateau - a big ground with two small kunds housed by rainwater.

There was also an ancient small temple made up of stones of Shiva, and at some distance to its right-side another small temple of Bhairava. We spent some good 2 hours here clicking pictures, catching reflection of peaks in the water, but above all to it, trying to look through the clouds the mount of Chaukhamba. That is what we were there for. On a clear sky day, one could see mighty Chaukhamba and the town of Guptkashi from here. For us in that sense it was not a lucky moment. Because Chaukhamba never unveiled itself. We could just manage to get a glimpse of it with our camera ready and hooked onto it. It mostly remained wrapped well in the layers of thick clouds over its mount. That was heart-sinking, but nothing could be done about it. It was getting cloudy and slowly drops from heaven started to pour down. This was the time we knew we should step down. But it never rained, just the tiny drops scaring you every

now and then. I was completely lost into the beauty of the place. Greenfields. Open skies. Glaciers. Clouds. And a small beautiful temple that is often worshiped. I am sure God must have loved it here. God must have selected this place carefully and so it deserves to be holy.

Chaukhamba, a glimpse that I could capture. But visibility was quite poor and waiting for it to show up - the chance was almost negligible. We started to come back with first few drops on our head. We paid our homage to Shetrapal Devta whose small temple is just 200 mtrs away from Madhmaheshwar shirne. It is on the route from the temple leads to Nandikund, via Pandu Sera famous for bugyals.

We came back to the temple. While on our way back I was delighted to see many tiny colorful flowers on the carpet of the meadows everywhere, mainly purple, maroon and yellow. I have seen them before and everytime I have seen them, I have liked them. These were like thoughts, floating around everywhere, in every sight, in every turn, on every bend, on every trail. Yet they won't be the main thing that we would want to see. Not the main thing or the reason - why you are here. Yet not the one of the things that gets noticed every now and then or discussed with peers. No one does that, and tulips don't complain. They stay where they were, they die where they were and they re-born where they were.

One after another, many small flowers different colors, different shapes yet not a line that describes them and not a word that glorifies them. Not in this blog, not anywhere that I have sinked my eyes into. Good things in life are such, often un-noticed. Now that I've come back - its not the Chaukhamba, Clouds, Mountains, Rain or for that matter the temple, but those tulips that continue to live inside me, dominate my mind all the time. Tulips are your part of good life, cherish them to bloom.

(c) Himanshu

Itinenary:

15th July Night: Delhi-Rishikesh by bus. Reached by 8 A.M.

16th July: Cab to Okhimath for Rs. 3000; Bus to Uniyana. Reached by 6 p.m.

17th July: Uniyana- Ransi (3kms) - Gaundhar (6kms) - Bantoli (2kms) - Madhmaheshwar (9kms) - TOTAL 20 kms approx.

18th July: Buda Madhmaheshwar - Gaundhar.

19th July: Gaundhar-Uniyana-Ukhimath (by shared jeep). Ukhimath - Rudraprayag (by bus). Rudraprayag-Rishikesh (cab for Rs. 2200). Rishikesh at 9 pm. Boarded bus to Delhi.

20th July: Delhi@6 a.m. Office by 10 a.m.

Back In Groove/ The Pindari Experience

After Rupin Pass trek in June 2010, I almost didn't do any trek. Though small treks were quite much in the routine but the one that counts is our visit to Yamanotri on Deepawali. It counted not because it was trek, but because we have been on the run throughout. Then we did in Jan 26th, 2011 Khalia Top in Munsiyari but that doesn't count as a trek, it was rather a road-trip. So i was longing for one good-long-glacial trip but somewhat soft.

Pindri Glacier

Hukum (L) & Bunty (R)

The idea was to breakfree, relax and enjoy the naturewalk in the pristine quietness away from city's hustle-bustle and ofcourse the mountains. Lately, i've been working hard, to complete my PhD thesis besides office the under eye dark circles and bulge on my body will tell you more. And i thought, what best could be than Pindari Glacier to cleanse the mindbucket and offload the trash. During this season of time, in April, office load is maximum - presentations, game plans, budgeting, reviews and new thoughts and ideas for planning and execution for the new financial year.

God, i hate April, and pray if i could skip this month on my calendar. But God didn't pay any heed to my wish. And i reminded myself the quote, God helps them who helps themselves. It is then i know i have helped myself and people like me to break-free with this Pindari plan. It's like back in groove, after a while.

Danu's Guesthouse at Vaccham

Our new partner this time was Hukum Singh Negi, a fellow whom i have known for over 7-8 years or even more. He readily agreed to accompany. Not solely for the sake of trek, but partly also because he had his in-laws there - the place called Bharadi, some 28-30kms from Bagheshwar town and close to Saung - our trekking point. Around 12 midnight, we four started from Delhi. At Anand Vihar, we must pick Gaurav's uncle who is already waiting for us. Chacha ji is a man of paitence, he cleaned up the windsheild with passion but he talked less, mostly with Gaurav.

First View of River Pindar after Khati

Later after my conversation with him, i got to know that he goes very often to Bhimtal, where he is building his house. His plans look familiar to me - to shift from Delhi along with his family. To both - Delhi looks ugly. And we developed a bond while conversing. We reached Bhimtal, without any sleep, talking and listening to the songs. We took light breakfast with tea after we freshen up at a cottage cum hotel in Bhimtal on the road to Naukuchiatal. I enjoyed every sip of it. The feeling was great, and we streched ourselves for 15 minutes on the beds. The journey resumed. The mosit air was refreshing. After sometime, I pulled up the windows, the air was chill. Crossed Almora around 10 am, the road strech between Khairna and Almora was still rough. We reached Bagheshwar around 2 p.m. Gaurav drove well and we just stopped once for the noon meal at a small hut who served us hot tasty lunch topped with lemonade to digest it well. The sun was up and hot. Bagheshwar was all choas - traffic noise, cluttered, hot and madenning. I quickly got down to purchase the torch and we fled the town in haste. Buradi was the next destination.

We stopped for Hukum who wanted to say Hi to his in-laws. Abut 4:30 pm we were at Saung and a little over Saung we parked the car in the lawn of PWD resthouse. This is a kilometer back from Loharkhet. My advice to those who are interested in taking their car to Loharket is that you should avoid it taking to Loharkhet and better part at Saung itself or take SUV's or Jeep.

The Bends In Pindar

Small cars fear the damage for their being too low in gap with the road. Bunty drove it really well and cautiously. We parked our car, we found a Mahindra Jeep and quickly decided to take the jeep further to reach Loharkhet KMVN which was another 1 km. During our conversation with the driver, we found that he has plans to go a little further to Loharkhet. He discussed with us that if we take some jeep further and reach Vaccham, a day will be saved. Also the trek from Loharkhet to Dhakuri top is some 8 kms which is tedious. And, we decided to take the jeep with us to Vaccham. Some 2 hours of drive on a really rough road which is not yet a road but in the making for sure. All dusty and sleepy, we reached Danu's small guesthouse, at Vaccham after walking some 2 kms. The view it offered was marvellous and simply irresitable. To left was Nanda Devi and Maiktoli and to right was Panwali Dwar. The timepiece showed 7:20 pm and we decided to night halt at the guesthouse. Early morning, i clicked the Maiktoli. I was completely mesmerised by the view. That is exactly what my eyes were longing to see. My heart was melting with each ray of sun as it started to emerge over the cut of Panwali Dwar. It was all i wanted. By now all were up and got ready in not much time. We relishly ate the paranthas and rejoiced the talks while sipping over the next round of tea. The father and son - both treated us well. And we promised to comback after our Pindari excursion to stay another night leaving our some of the items at Danu's place.

Pindari Kids

By now, the sun was up and about 8:20 we started ake our move. We crossed Khati, and after a while, found ourselves walking along the banks of the river Pindar. The river was gushing out of the valley that looked like a giant hollow turn bending into another valley, and the trees on the borderline on a path that is broad enough for 3 persons to walk together. Our laughters could be heard coming back to us in echo, or atleast seemed to me so. I was enjoying myself. The path was almost plain - sometimes ascend and descend - but that doesnt count.

A waterfall before Dwali

It was a cakewalk till we reached the shephard's huts where one could see a new wooden bridge made up to cross the river that gushes out in massive flow from a bend. This bend after crossing the bridge climbs you to opening of another valley. In this part of valley is place called Dwali, some 6kms from here. It has a PWD and KMVN guesthouse. Dwali presents the view of icy mountains and is indeed windy, and down there is Pindar. It requires you to cross another wooden bridge over Pindar to reach here.

Dwali in the shadow of snow peaks

By the time we reached here it begin to pour. I sipped upon tea and my friends ate maggi. Hukum was by now in bad shape. He wanted to stay. I was also in the grip of fatigue. I was not at all fit. Reason being my office work and tension to complete thesis, and my life was only office to home to office for past 8 months. Gaurav suggested that we will have our stuff carried by a porter so me and Hukum will be able to walk to Phurkiya, the destination we were supposed to reach, today.

I liked the idea but i knew its all climb up from here till Phurkiya. I again tried resisted looking at Hukum who was almost breathless. Although Hukum has much experience than us but lately he is homed in Delhi, with parents and wife and a cute daughter. So he has made himself too comfortable in all these years. Otherwise he is a solid man.

The Wooden Bridge

At 4 pm around, we resumed walking towards Phurkiya, some 5 kms from Dwali.

First Glacier Enroute before Phurkiya

The other reason i wanted to stay in Dwali is i was being very sleepy. It looked to me like i need to lay down for a while, which i could not afford to if we all have to reach Phurkiya the same day. So i suggested that me and Hukum could come to Phurkiya early morning, but Gaurav made this arrangement, so it seemed that we will be able to walk till Phurkiya.
The last mile to Phurkiya was really tiring but the loadless walking made it a bit easier for two of us. The signboard read Phurkiya KMVN though it was rusted from the sides, and had scratches all over the board. My watch showed 6pm. We chose PWD over KMVN, it was cheaper, we had our sleeping bags and, somehow it looked that the room has ample space to accomodate all four of us together. Quickly the arrangements were made, and tea was served. Knowing that we have to stay here the night, suddenly there was no sleep. We were clicking photographs, enjoying the tea and chatting up with the tea vendor.

Phurkiya

Phurkiya had two shops - a small and a slightly bigger one. It looked like to me that GMVN people or his fellows were operating the bigger one, while the smaller one belonged to a young man from Khati village. It is here we ate our meals at 8:10 pm and went to sleep. Phurkiya offered grand views as we got closer to Pindari Glacier - the originating source of river Pindar. It was about 3100 mtrs height with moutain face to its North-West side. The Pindari glacier but still not visible.

(path that leads to) Phurkiya

While chatting up with few villagers, we got to know that Pindari Baba himself is in Khati village. He tried a week before going to his place right upto zero point but there is still too much of snow and an avalanche that has made reaching there worse. Some other village says that PWD people have cleared the snow and made a way over the snow to go to zero point. And the other challenged that there is massive snow enroute and nobody actually will be able to go to zero point.

I suddenly recalled seeing a bunch of foreigners coming back from Pindari who said the somewhat same thing - too much snow. They were the mountaineers and had plans to cross the valley and reach Munsiyari. I never heard of this route before. An alternative route which i have heard of takes one to the Roopkund but that is not on this route. Its on Sundardhunga route, and also not on Kafni glacier trek. I was up early. All of us didnt had good sleep.

Gaurav Crossing the first Glacier

Infact i could not sleep for last 3 days properly. One night sacrificed in travelling, the other at Danu's guesthouse in Vaccham that was somewhat half-sleep half awake sort of for me, and the last night at Phurkiya, was not at all comfortable. All we did night-long was changing positions inside the sleeping back. By 7:30 am we started climbing up from Phurkiya towards the Pindari Glacier.

Nanda Kot Side of Valley

Hukum didnt come along this time despite asking him twiceHe preferred to sleep a bit more and rest. He showed signs of laziness and sleepless, and asked pointing towards my rolled sleeping-bag for pillow. Bunty and Gaurav ordered paranthas for breakfast and after second round of hot piping tea, we started to march. And it was some another 6-7kms to zero point. I was mesmerised completely overtaken by the views that are now surrounding us.

Peaks Engulfed in Clouds

I was walking at a good pace. Bunty and Gaurav following. The first glacier we crossed at some 500 mtrs from Phurkiya was wide and quite much slippery. Me and Bunty crossed it but Gaurav had apprehensions. A small slip could end up in fatal injury or death. I came back to fetch Gaurav, help him cross this mess, using a wooden stick. We crossed and resumed walking. Some 4-5 small medium sized glaciers continued to come until came a point after walking 2.5 kms where Gaurav said, "Ok! enough! I will stay here, you two can continue." It was getting hard for him to cross these snow-melting glaciers as the sun was vibrant and shining high by now. The wind was pestering us too. I have been helping him in crossing the glacers but i also feel it was right for him to stay back.

Pindar Valley

A slip on rough snow patches that were now melting could turn the sheer pleasure into disaster, so it is better to be avoided else you are confident that you could cross them or either have the right equipments and a trained guide. We didn't had any of these. Me and Bunty continued walking. After walking some 3 kms more, Gaurav said ''this wind is biting my head off".

He complained of headache, but had nothing to wrap off on his ear and head. He was showing the symptoms of high atltitude sickness but was okay. Pindari Glacier at the farther end to extreme left-side was still half visible, only the massif of it.

We decided to look at the turning point of the valley which was now just a km away to see the full glacier. Just before some 500 mtrs from here, we met an old man leaned over a rock and smoking like the old age train's piston showen in documentaries.

He said Pindari Baba's ashram is just now nearby; so we decided to have a look.

Pindari Glacier at Last

In the meanwhile snow patches increased and air was piercing Bunty's head. We increased our speed and walked about a km more until at the turn Pindari was visible. It is from here at some distance of 500 mtrs is Pindari Baba's abode. This was the last point we went to. We clicked pictures, and spent about 10 minutes to look around and absorb everything we could of the place - the mist in the air, sun beams, snow blinding us white, and the silence - just the two of us. We spoke nothing. We did nothing. We just starred at the massifs of the moutains.

Valley View While Coming Back

The time was 11:10 and we nodded our heads in agreement to go back. The weather suddenly started to get bad with dark clouds ready to pour on us, uninvited. But it was us who were uninvited, in the home of the clouds. It started to pour down in small drops. We met Gaurav sitting over a rock just where we left him. We were now walking fast to get back to Phurkiya. In an hour and half or maybe less we reached Phurkiya.

Hukum had already left by now. He has taken our baggage too using a pony. That was a big relief. We had tea again. Soon after we started to comeback. By 7 pm around, we reached Danu's place, and we knew which bed for whom. We atequickly and dozed off to sleep with plan to trek Dhakuri. We reached Vaccham at 8:30 am next morning. The plan was Hukum will take the jeep and reach Bharadi at his in-laws' place while we will continu trek to Dhakuri-Chilta Devi and come down to Saung where our car was parked. We bid goodbye to Hukum and started to climb up.

River Pindar

Some 4kms of upside trek led us to Dhakuri KMVN and PWD. It was a place i have dreamt of - a perfect

picture postcard of the views and sun keeping us warm.

It is here we took a big 1 hr break - refreshing oursleves with Slice followed by tea and biscuits. Another 1.5 kms upside and we reached Chilta Devi temple. It is from here two diversions appear in opposite directions and both had Chilta temples while the straight path leads to Loharkhet.

Valley View While Coming Back

To the right-hand side a gate reads 'Chilta mandir ka dwar'that was clearly visible from the small temple where we were sitting.

It was here we met a guide-cum-porter here who chatted with us very nicely and apperead extremely courteous. He suggested us to take a look at the lake on the left side, a km before the Chilta temple which was opposite to the gated temple that read 'Chilta mandir ka dwar'.

Temple of Chilta Devi

Tempted by the mention of lake, we stated to walk in the direction as he left. But enjoying at the Chilta top (not at the temple, but on the temple that is Dhakuri Top) was far more pleasurable. I could spend the whole day here. The soft wind touches you every now and then, and the snow clad peaks in the front. And we begin to walk.

Gate of Chilta Temple

After some 200 mtrs we find it had no path, only dry leaves all over scattered which got steep after a while as if walking on the borderline with a gorge on the right-side. And Gaurav said, "lets drop this and go back". We came back and rested again at the temple for a while. Shortly thereafter we started to walk down from Dhakuri Top. While walking on it I realised, its good that we avoided it else it would have made us pretty tired on the first day of trek itself. It was indeed a good climb with a disturbing but broad clear path made up of uneven stones rather flat big pieces. We came across the grave of a German tourist with the tombstone that read Peter Krost. I said how fortunate of him to die in this heaven. It was actually the place to detach the body and return the soul.

Old Man Who Served Us Tea and Chatted

The route had couple of shops. I am sure in the times of season (we went in April end); the place will have more shops to refreshen oneself. We halted at one such shop. It was on a bend. The hut-owner an elderly man looked self-contained. The tree close the shop, is where we sat and sipped our tea and ate few packs of biscuits. We were at leisure. The man initially didn't spoke however after sometime willingly shared about the place. He said "the place used to receive massive snow but not anymore now". He shared that he has seen snow deep to his waist such fierce the snow storms that could injure one. And he remembered his time when he himself was kid. I loved his narration of things. It can not be told, can only be felt. For a moment time stood still. The tea was perfect unlike regular tea that you'll get on hills - sugary and light. But this was a strong cup. So we ordered again.

Confluence of Pindari & Alaknanda at Karanprayag

While we reached Loharkhet in choas and confusion - walking roadside and at some place asking for help; I was all the way thinking about the old man, his life and the words he said "the place was much better but not anymore". It is heaven still but the old man won't agree to that. What kind of place would it have been during the old man's time. And I started to toy with the comparison between now and then, cursing the evil development and blaming the developed minds for they have made our lives complex. But have they? I hate this debate so much yet i always ponder upon them.

While coming back, it was mutually agreed to drive through Karanprayag. It is where Pindar river merges in Alakananda. We all had a peaceful bath at the confluence. This gave us the feeling of having completed this journey from source to end of the river Pindar. A sense of self-contentment. The kind of what that old man at Dhakuri showed. The dip had purified our souls if not our body and mind.

Itinerary:

Day-1: Started Fri Night@12 p.m from Delhi-Bhimtal (at 6 a.m) - Almora (at 10:30 a.m) - Bagheshwar (at 2 p.m) - Saung (at 4 p.m; parked car at PWD) - Vaccham (by hired jeep at 6:45 p.m and walked 3 km to reach Danu's place).

Day-2: Vaccham (started at 8 am) - Dwali (2:30 pm) - Phurkiya (at 5:30 p.m around)
Day-3: Phurkiya (at 7 a.m) - Zero Point - Vaccham (at 7:30 p.m)

Day-4: Vaccham (at 7:30 a.m) - Dhakuri Top, Chilta Devi Temple (at 1:30 a.m) - Loharkhet (5 p.m) - Bharadi (6:30 p.m night halt)

Day-5: Bharadi (started at 5 a.m) - Delhi via Karanprayag (reached by 11 p.m)

Himanshu