The Ultimate Destination / Badrinath

Shri Badrinath Shrine - abode of Lord Vishnu (October, 2011 - IInd Week )

The road diverts after Joshimath, one goes to Valley of Flowers and Hemkunt Shahib Gurudwara, and the other to Badri Dham

View enroute

Razor-sharp mountain heads enroute

Neelkanth

Shrine of Lord Badrinath Ji

Alaknanda, flowing at Badrinath

approaching Mana village

Neelkanth (from Auli)

Nanda Devi Peak (from Auli)

Auli Panarama - view of Himalaya

View from Suraithota, on Tapovan - Malari road

Dhauliganga Project enroute Malari

BRO - at work to make highway road swift

from Suraithota bridge

Dhauliganga Valley

Photo blog: www.flickr.com/myth_drinker Copyright Protected Under Creative Commons.

Tungnath by Luck/ Ukhimath Revisited, Garhwal, India

I certainly looked happy but inside had been hiding sentimental feelings that I did not let come out. I had resigned and will be relieved in next 10 days or so. I didn’t do much reasoning with mind and asked Saurabh, if he wishes to come to a trip with me and, he readily agreed. Saurabh in his early 20’s looked quite thin and lean and was known to have aggressive personality than an average standard when it comes to presentations. Now that, I have known him for 2 years but we have not been on any trip. I first met him in his BBA class where I taught Business Strategy, and the exchange of communication thereupon grew on the classroom notes. Today, we leave for an unknown destination as I searched hard and zeroed upon choices what place should we visit? I had more than a week to dedicate while Saurabh had just been through with his internal exams and had days to dispose. He brought his bag in the afternoon to the institute and accompanied me to my place. I had my bag ready almost and soonafter at 7:30 pm we left for ISBT with still no clue to what place we shall be going? I recalled last time I had plans to visit Madhyamaheshwar but could not visit due to bad weather and less time at hand (due to which we also could not cover Deoria Taal) but never regretted that. So we decided to cover the place now. I had been to Ukhimath before with Gagan when we covered Tungnath (though we could not see Chandrashila due to the heavy weather), so the place was almost known to me and I thought to show Saurabh the mountain world while I look for known companions in the area like Chamola Ji - the Caretaker, Negi Ji - the Cook at GMVN, and Tiwari Ji – the owner of Anushri lodge and his nephew, whom I had promised to comeback.

DEVPRAYAG

We took Uttarakhand Transport bus to Rishikesh. I have been on this route more than any other route and could tell by peeping out the window about how much time it will take to reach the place from here. The bus had ‘less than seat’ passengers so Saurabh stretched out a little while like all times. We reached Rishikesh at 3:40 am as expected. It was the regular chill of early March and no auto-rickshaw was around at this time so we had to walk upto the Tehri bus stand.

DEVPRAYAG (The Abondon Bridge over Ganga)

It was really good walking fast with our bagpacks to heat up our bones and just when we had half a mile to cover, we saw the bus cross by. The driver slowed it down; conductor peeked out and then shouted on top of his voice ‘Joshimath’ looking at us coming out of the narrow lane opposite to the road. And I replied – ‘No’, Ukhimath.

RUDRAPRAYAG (Mandakini on (reader's) Right and Alaknanda on Left)

Next we were in this bus which had only last bench seat left to accommodate us; rest the bus was full with non-hindi speaking labours or seemed so from their language. The last bench seat on which we accommodated ourselves to my side along the window had window that would not shut to the full. The window kept sliding every now and then and sometimes I had to cover my ears for constant air bowing through the window inside. Saurabh also had more or less the same trouble. Well, soon we lay down to rest on the same bench dividing the sides to opposite windows though uncomfortably and tackling the window sliding problem at our both ends while our labour fellow snored at a pitch.

RUDRAPRAYAG GHAT

The sun was out as the visibility gets clearer. The time was 8:15 around and Saurabh was up too. As the locals started to commute, the driver puts up the break every now and then. Now the bus had few people standing. I offered my seat to an old lady and this gave me the opportunity to stretch myself. Saurabh sometimes look outside then closes his eyes and then opens up again, and it continued till we crossed Srinagar. He was still a bit sleepy and slightly unwell. This was his first time; hiking in the bus without break for last 12 hours and yet he showed no signs of disappointment or tiredness on his face. We reached Rudraprayag around 9:40 am and got down off the bus. The bus that was going to Joshimath shall take different route from here which would move along Alaknanda, while our route would move along Mandakini. Quickly we filled up, and set walking towards the bridge down. The idea was to spare some moments at the confluence. So we started walking down and reached the bridge, Saurabh clicked few snaps. And there came the Jeep from somewhere and the driver yelled at us ‘Okhimath’! And, we jumped inside taking the front seats.

I was wondering about my familiarity with the place, looking out and trying to recall the places that we had to pass to reach Ukhimath. We passed Tilwara, then, Chilayasaur. Both these villages are along Mandakini and quite much humid areas. The roads were bad as BRO works out to reshape and expand the rocky cuts with their big drills. This was the first time I witnessed the blasts too and saw the excitement of people running around and discussing the scene. The roads were better after we crossed Chiliyasaur and reached Ghat where the road divides into two – one goes to Kedarnath and the other one to Ukhimath which was some 20 kms from here and the jeep soon will begin to climb.

GHAT (from here the road divides)

We reached Ukhimath and like I had in my mind, we got down at GMVN which is some little more than a km before the bus stand. It was nice to see Chamola Ji and Negi Ji after more than a year and half long time. We exchanged greetings and the time was 12:15 pm when we passed across Anushri Lodge but Tiwari Ji was not seen around nor his nephew.
We filled up and around 1:30 resumed our journey on foot while looking out for jeep service that could drop us to Chopta though I was uncertain about the accommodation. The temple was months far to be opened in June while it was just mid March.
Saurabh could be seen sipping tea

Saurabh was in perfect mood. Taking pics and notes about the places. He seemed to be enjoying the oneness with nature and that anonymous ‘lost for words’ feeling. We walked with few school children – talking, laughing and singing. Contrary, I had tough time telling them why we were there?
After some time, some 4-5kms afterwards, we started to look aggressively for our staying option. We were tired and the fact was it was already 3:20 pm which means we need to find accommodation before the sun sinks and night crawls. I had no clue.
UKHIMATH (opposite is Guptakashi)

An old villager whom I asked for accommodation, recommended us to go to Duggalbhitta which he described the place that has a PWD and a local hotel, which belonged to a barrister at Rudraprayag. He said the jeep can be expected anytime now. He was right.

Around 4, the jeep came. It had few villagers and 3 associates of this private hotel named Mayadeep. Infact the jeep was popularly called as Mayadeep and at 5:30 we reached Duggalbitta at a crawling speed collecting the firewoods wherever they saw chopped wood and logs. I wondered who might have chopped them and left in so dense a jungle for these fellows to collect the woods. Anyway, it was getting dark, but we thought to first sip upon a tea with some maggi. Saurabh was suddenly unwell and begin to vomit. He felt ok after the tea.

PWD, Duggalbhitta

It was 6 past 15. We took a pack of biscuits from our bag and begin surveying the place. It was indeed very peaceful as we trailed inside the jungle area to see what route we are to take to reach Chopta. We clicked few pics and came back to our place, at 8pm, we took the candle light dinner and soonafter went off to sleep. We did not have slept much in the bus and for the last night and day were in travel continuously.

We had Maggi & Tea Here (Duggalbhitta), Me & the Nepali Caretaker

Next morning, we got up early, and prepared to leave the place at 6:45. I was disappointed to find that the caretakers were not up yet. We asked the Nepali chap who was one of caretakers, who happened to had served us the dinner, came forward and asked us if we could wait he could prepare us some tea. We readily agreed as it was quite chilling outside.

Mayadeep guesthouse could be seen behind Saurabh and the road also where we had tea (see huts). Just opposite to tea shop is PWD resthouse

Finally we reached Chopta, after crossing through the several steep passages and moist slippery surface amidst the wilderness – just two of us. This was best of the time that we had spent on walking together, talking aloud, clicking pictures and wandering whereever possible around the place. After all it was the moment after a really long tiring journey and the worse lodging of all times.
Moving towards Chopta

Soon we met the first patch of snow. Both were excited. The more was to come. I was sure that we would encounter some snow while in Delhi just when I was planning the trip but I was wrong. It was not the some ice. It was lot more ice.
We reached Chopta at 9:30, decided to have tea and paranthas at the only open shop. It started to downpour light as we finished up the breakfast and started to trek upwards for Tungnath. We just had walked some 800 mtrs and the snow started to appear on the serpent like hill path. As we keep walking, the snow got thicker and soon the snowfall started. It was a good day indeed!

First Snow View

It started to snow aggressively while Saurabh was enjoying the scene, pretty much lost in photography, I had the doubt in my mind – to go up or come down.

And, I asked Saurabh to walk a bit fast to reach ASAP. We really had to rush but too much of snow on the track and the blowing wind and snow fall was suddenly seemed hard to combat that is too when we two were the only souls climbing.

We reached the Ganesha temple amidst the knee deep snow and the snowfall reduced. We looked down at the open valley which was covered all white with the snow.

CHOPTA (Only shop at Chopta that offered breakfast ...and lodging in tents too)

The wind stopped too and we offered our prayer and started to click the views around. We were swept away by the enchanted sounds of Monals and flock of birds in the sky. We thought to rest a while beside the Ganesha, and the time was 11:20. After some 15 minutes of rest, we resumed our journey towards the temple of Tungnath, which stood now at some 600 mtrs.

Some scenes... slope we walked upwards using our hands, snowfall started and Me walking fast and telling Saurabh to walk fast too...

Ganesha Temple

As we prepared to walk, the weather started to get heavy again and the snowfall started again. This time it was heavier than the previous fall and we did not knew what route to approach.
First view of temple amidst heavy snowfall

By the time we were 100 mtrs to the temple, the visibility got too bad. We had all snow all over clothes and in the shoes. However, Saurabh seemed not be worrying at all but I was certainly thinking – one wrong move and we could end up losing the lives in the deep down gorge to our left. But, we had faith attached to us. The faith that appeared automatically and did not needed to be recalled in our minds in conditions like this. And, we were now more than reluctant to comeback without paying homage to the deity.

The determination grew hard with the ever growing white snow flakes from the sky and we folded our hands at the very first sight of the temple gates and the voice came within ‘Jai Bhagwan Tungnath’ that could be heard mixing up with the echoing sound of the hard blowing wind. We were almost there!

Second View (Almost there!!!)

We had to choose the route amidst the deep snow covered area to climb up using our bare hands. It was icy, pretty much but we moved up with all the adrenaline. We reached at the covered ‘kund’ that had water flowing through the lion’s mouth and some architecture built of stones. Snowstorm once more dazzled and rattled and suddenly slowed down to shut up. This was the divine sign, and Saurabh’s hand reached for the big bell at the temple gate which was painted blue (on pillar) and yellow and with red written ‘Shri Tungnath Mandir’ right in the middle.
This was the moment we were longing for and without saying a word to each other, there we were at the locked and sealed gate of the main entrance with our folded hands offering brief prayer.

Final View (from Front)

The gate was painted in stripes of 3 colours and was all made up of what it seemed big logs of stone carved out to make this beautiful ancient temple that holds great spiritual experience and the impressive historical relevance. The hood of the temple which appeared to be like an open wooden square window and painted of yellow, red and green chiefly, with white stripes on the top had a white flag on a golden pole over it. It was hard to interpret both – the coloured painting and the existence of the temple that survived more than 500 thousand years of Mahabharata age.

Besides the temple, on its left, there were small temples that symbolically represented Parvati (immediate next) and Bhairav with other unidentified deities in a row along the temple.

Soon we came to our senses and started to feel the chill of the snow. We had 2 paranthas rolled with some achar in an empty tea packet and some water left in the bottle which we consumed looking at the temple from a shed on the left to the temple from its opposite.

As we put on our bags and looked down from the main entrance gate – a different challenge was awaiting. It was – how to get down! Saurabh suggested following our footsteps and he was right. We came down the steepest of the bend slowly.

The Two Friends We Met (Barthwal Ji and Ramola Ji) Later we become friends at Deoria Tal Trek (the very next day)

There we met two fellows whom we first met at Dugalbhitta who were busy doing rounds of smokes and drinks at the same place where we had maggi and tea a day before. They also stayed at Mayadeep - the very place where we also stayed the last night. The only difference between them and us was – they smoked, drank and had bike to carry them over places while we were on foot. We chatted up for a while and then we left since we had to reach Ukhimath back again without the clue whether we would get the drop from Chopta or not.

Meanwhile Saurabh came up with the idea to get down fast. I was interested in HOW? And, he suggested that would skate on snow. I asked again how? I was close to understand him when he said we would slip down sitting and, to both of us the idea seemed fine if not ideal.

Downside view from the temple (the snowfall covered the whole trek quickly)

I went down first and surprisingly got struck in the middle and then had to row with my hands. That was silly. I had snow all over inside. Then he came before I could tell him… No! But even if I would have said no, he might not have listened. He thought it to be the fun, and he would not have listened to even God at the moment or later have blamed me for depriving him of his right to scroll and crawl into the snow. He came crashing down too and in the middle got struck just like me. It was life’s one of the white experience and the idea we rejected without questions.

Coming Down

We came down to Chopta and the clock struck 1:20 pm. The weather was rainy again. We had tea at the same place and soonafter started running down fast to Dugalbhitta as there was no chance for us to get a drop from here. We finally reached the place in at 3 pm with bright and beautiful lit sky with sun shine through the clouds and shadows of them all over the valley. We were quite much warm by now. We had finished almost more than a 20km trek since morning. We had our last maggi and fourth tea of the day and soon after we left for Makku Band some 2 kms more from the place we had our meal.

SLIDING DOWN

The downpour sometimes starts and then stops, and then resumes but we never bothered about it and kept marching, and discussing our degrees of experience, excitement and enjoyment.

I offered my gratitude to the deity for bringing me to Him again and to the experience that I never had consumed before.

First time, it was the sheer chance and this time planned by luck and hence, for sure I have now started believing these chance-luck theories.

© himanshu
For more pics please visit
www.flickr.com/myth_drinker

Tungnath By Chance/ Ukhimath, Garhwal

If I could escape my dull and hectic life of Delhi for forever, Ukhimath could be the place where I would want to be settled down for my new abode.

I visited Ukhimath first time in July (2006) end, and before I could do more fact-finding we had our bagpacks ready. Me and Gagan. It was a chance talk that I had with Gagan a day before wherein I mentioned to him the place and talked about a vacation together. Gagan, not sure at the time, gave his unsure ‘Yes’ with a ‘But’! I knew Gagan since my graduation days. He has always been around since then. Half textile engineer and more than full - a fabric expert - had just resigned and this was the opportunity I was trying to get upon. A puzzled Gagan called up in the afternoon to inform me the unexpected. And we were ready. Like all the times, he came late at ISBT, Delhi, than planned at 9:35 p.m. I was awaiting him for last 2 hours. Finally, he came and I gave him what I was holding back inside me.

We immediately took the bus to Rishikesh. I had ensured the eatables for us and after we chatted for some 2-3 hours about things in our lives, we stretched flat at the back seats of half empty bus. We reached Rishikesh at 4:40 am after covering some 240km of distance. It was pouring slowly. I asked one of the auto drivers for a drop at Tehri bus stand which was 2kms, but since he demanded a Rs. 10 flat for each, I refused to be cheated away and we started walking fast to reach the venue. Gagan cursed me for that!

Confluence of Alaknanda & Mandakini At Rudraprayag

At Tehri bus stand of Rishikesh, we took tea and an hour break. It was at 6:30 our bus will leave for Rudraprayag which was some 120 kms from here. We took the side seat for two, Gagan at the window side. Bus started and we smiled to each other for the trip to Hills has started.

At near around 9:20 we reached Devprayag which was enroute. I had tea again while Gagan preferred taking a look around. We discussed further about his first experience with hills. We moved again and by 11:50 reached Rudraprayag. Gagan was tired and so was me. So we made a halt in a dingy cheap room for (Rs. 200 which was Rs. 50 more a price to pay) but with all windows open it was a well lit and nice ventilated room. We changed and went out to eat.

Devprayag, Confluence of Alaknanda & Bhagirathi that forms Ganga

We spent our time by Alaknanda’s side in warm sum and glacier water in which we put our feet and then yell ‘Chill hai yaar’! We were more than happy. No family, no work, nothing to feel and nothing to share, just the plain sound of flowing Alaknanda and our offbeat communication to content ourselves.

Next I realized when we got back to our room, that I forgot the memory card for my digital camera, at home only. So we spent the evening searching for the card at every nook and corner helplessly but no success. We retired at our bed soon at 8:00 pm. Next day we got ready at 8 and planned to go back to Srinagar which was enroute some 30 kms back from the place we were at. Going back was the chance we were about to take because we were not certain whether we will get the Card there or not? Anyway, we reached Srinagar – bigger and better city life than Rudraprayag. While I waited for the shop to open, Gagan opted for a close shave. Luck was with us, though we got the card for a higher a price at Rs. 1300. We stuffed our stomach and prepared to resume our journey. We reached Rudraprayag again, got down and started locating for bus that goes to Ukhimath.

Rudraprayag, Mandakini Side (on right) while Alaknanda comes from Left

We reached Ukhimath at 2:00 pm after travelling for some 60-70 kms. The route was rough and bad patches on road appeared all over. The route was all along the river Mandakini through Tilwara and Chiliyasaur and finally the Ghat from where one road goes to Guptakashi and other goes to Ukhimath.

Initially the program was to go to Madhyamaheshwar so we were told that the same bus that leaves at 4p.m from Ukhimath market shall drop us at Uniyana some 18-20 kms further. We had the time at hand. Some 2 hours. We had ‘Dal Chawal’ which Gagan never liked, and for me it was as usual ok. After it was around 4:00 pm we enquired about the bus and got the unexpected reply. The bus actually developed some snag as we were told and would not go today further.

Ukhimath Bus Stand (and the market)

So we returned down the market to GMVN our first choice to stay. Chamola Ji, the care taker and Rawat Ji, the cook, we met there who offered the room but tariff was quite high at Rs. 600 for room. So we planned to move after a cup of tea to search for another night halt place. We got accommodation at Anushree lodge (owned by Tiwari Ji) for Rs. 200 which was quite a clean new room with new bedding. Later, that evening we went for the outing, met some children from some village nearby, clicked pics and had good time. Gagan looked over- joyous. We returned back at 7:20 to have our dinner at GMVN and from there retuned back to our room which was some 1 km far. Soft downpour was continuously signaling of bad weather to start anytime now.

The room had no light despite the connection. Some fault was being located. As we lay down I discussed with Gagan about option of visiting Madhyamaheshwar and we were ready to get up at 5:00 and leave. It was 9:10 when somebody knocked the door. It was Tiwari’s nephew asking us to join for dinner. We politely rejected. He went back smiling only to come back with Tiwari himself. Tiwari Ji, in some early 40s, looked quite strong and commanding. And politely he said; join us over for some hot milk, which I and Gagan were happy to hear about. While sipping upon the thick milk, he suggested us to visit Tungnath.

Guptakashi, as seen from Ukhimath (in the evening)

I remember of having seen the picture of Tungnath at the Survey of India map on Garhwal Hills. I was carrying the map too. Tiwari Ji was of the opinion that for Madhyamaheshwar you might not manage to get any vehicle and said moreover it would be risky trekking due to continuous downpour. Though, I completely agreed with him, I still wanted to go to Madhyamaheshwar. At the same time, I was interested in Tungnath too. Choices were always the problems for me. When we entered back our room, Gagan talked to his family and came to know about his interview schedule right after the 2 days. He wanted to do an MBA and I remember clearly having told by him about this dream as a major life goal. We observed silence. He suddenly said ‘I’ll be going back for this interview’ though he didn’t wanted to miss the trip and things to happen this way. It was a bad night after a full bright day. And the thunderstorm started.

It rained all night. I woke up at 5:10 out of the shiver I guess. I decided to put on my windcheater. It was still dark outside. I thought to open up the door for some fresh air and to observe the things around. I came out and saw the clouds all over and over them the snow-clad mountains. I shouted ‘Gagan’!

Early Morning View of Kedar Parvat whose foothill has the temple of Kedarnath from Ukhimath

Tiwari was up too and made me some tea. We sipped upon looking at massive clear mountains. Tiwari and the rain in the background broke the silence. He said ‘Go see Tungnath and you’ll not be disappointed’. Gagan was out too. He was all lost in the scene more than both of us. We got ready and by 6:15 were ready to approach Tungnath. Gagan planned to complete the trip and sacrificed his interest for a while. We came to the conclusion of why not try calling the college and let them know that you are out so if possibly the interview could be re-fixed after 3-4 days. Gagan made the call and succeeded. We were more than celebrating.

Tiwari asked the milkman to drop us at Chopta, some 20kms from this place. We 3 in the jeep discussing about the weather, temple and problems we could face if we do not plan return soon. At Chopta, we were almost alone. Among the mild rain, we prepared to trek. The time was 8:30. We started finding our way on the slippery surface amidst the vast jungle. The trek was some 3.5kms straight uphill to the temple of Lord Shiva called Tungnath, which believed to have received the arms of Shiva when He disintegrated himself. According to Mythology, Pandavas prayed to Shiva for forgiveness for having killed their kins and kiths which Shiva considered a sin not worth forgiving. In an effort to find Shiva, The Pandavas searched entire Himalaya and then at Guptkashi located Him. Shiva disintergated himself into pieces and told Pandavas to worship his these piece forms. These five pieces of Shiva forms 'Panch-Kedar' or 'KedarKhand'. Tungnath was the place that received Shiva's arms. And, we now have started the trek ...

Chopta

The place was full of vast grasslands, meadows and a serpent trail over which we were climbing up. We reached temple at 11:00, performed the ritual and started to click the pictures from various places surveying things. The weather by now was getting really bad and clouds all over the temple and we planned comeback. The temple made of huge stones was said to be some 5,000 years old, built by Pandavas and restructured by Shankracharya. The temple had all the 5 deities resting. These 5 were the forms of Shiva representing panch-kedar, in between was – Tungnath form.

Trek to Tungnath Temple

I remember while coming back Gagan and I had tea and took biscuits at a hut shop with an old lady and a kid. Gagan threw packs of biscuits at the crows who gathered all around him. It was the good gesture. He looked at ease enjoying nature to the fullest and with a breath deep into his lungs... he said, This is Real.

Temple of Tungnath

And, I prayed to Bhagwan Tungnath, make us come for once more… soon!

© himanshu

for more pics visit

www.flickr.com/myth_drinker

Also check Tungnath By Luck/ Ukhimath Re-visited

P.S I have been receiving mails about what happened to Gagan's interview next. Here is the answer... Gagan right after the trip appeared for the interview, got through it and now pursuing his MBA and currently undergoing Summer Training with a textile firm in Indonesia.