Embrace or Conquer / The Lord Within

This morning while getting hooked onto Sadhguru's youtube channel, I came across the one polite answer to the debate whether we should embrace or conquer. Embrace means "being one" with your goal; conquer is "to fight" whether you love it or not. My thoughts begin to dwell. Do I embrace the mountains or is it merely a quest to conquer? Frankly, I still don't know the answer. Can't even guess.

Ariel View of Saari Village

White debating between Dhakuri Trek or Tungnath, I chose the later one. Although I knew Hukum will miss this winter fun, but then I was unsure if we would get snow at Dhakuri top or not. Hukum's visit is unavoidable and we as group had only 3 days in hand. Being at both the places before, I knew Dhakuri does not offer any better motivation than Tungnath. A vibrant temple, with Chaukhamba on its mount that's how it was. And I have been there twice before. But at times Chilta temple looked to me more beautiful and inspiring when I take a moment to imagine how nice was it sitting at the temple stairs, watching the view in the front and sweet breeze blowing through the hair, and the sound of hustle of the leaves. Anyway, Tungnath was mutually decided by group. What was undecided within me is - to embrace or conquer.

Temple before Deoria Taal

Kuldeep Rawat, Darshan Negi, Anuj were joining us for the first time. Kuldeep Rawat, a jovial man with glowing face in the late 30's appeared fresh and happy and rum fragrant from his mouth. I got to know Sandy and Kuldeep had a cheerful party a while ago to celebrate this togetherness. Darshan, also in his late 30's is slightly reserve but a positive man with great faith in god and humanity. Anuj is my office colleague, a light hearted man with good heart but someone who needs direction  every now and then. Rest the crew was same - Ranjan, the loudest man on Earth; Sanjay, the live show (post his drinking); Sandy, the drinking machine, Yash, the soluble sugar (gels with everyone); Abhishek, the inquisitive mind with tongue for coffee; Prem, the man "always on fire" and blackberry. 

R to L Ranjan, Abhishek, Anuj, Sandy, Darshan, Sanjay, Kuldeep, Yash & Prem

The Guptkashi bus dropped us at Ghat at 10 a.m around, comfortably. The hired jeep took us to Ukhimath GMVN, our destination for the day. After quickly refreshing up, we decided to have quick meal and then off to Deoria Taal. After all, we had full day. Ukhimath market has a feel - looks like a typical hamlet on a ridge crowded with colorful shops, loud music playing on stereo, the rambling sound of Mahindra jeeps, and  their drivers taking a smoke break, people chitchatting about economic condition of the state, or simply bathing themselves in warm sun. We had a quick but heartily lunch. The jeep continued it journey towards Sari village, the place I knew well before. A steep climb of 2 kms around from here will take us to the taal. Deoria Taal is famous of its reflection of Chaukhamba that many enthusiast photographers attempt to capture through their lens. While reaching for Deoria Taal, we saw school children coming down after their 'picnic'. About 3 p.m we also reached the spot. The mesmerizing Chakhumba showed it aura - the snow clad tips of the four-sided peaks is truly a delight to see. And the photo session began. How I wanted to sleep here in this sunshine, in the shadow of the mighty mountains overlooking the lines along the water body. But the sun was setting. 

Deoria Taal

The crew came back to their dormitory beds at GMVN Ukimath, right on their spots except some of us who went for the groceries for the trek next day to the temple of the lord Tungnath ji. Soon after the happy times began. Kuldeep bhai inaugurated the evening lamp session of "somras" - very much required to negotiate with the heat of the day. Darshan bhai was still silent until he had few glasses going inside his throat right into his passage to stomach. Sandy as usual was the bartender with his "heavy machine pegs" that he labelled as 'little little'. In now way, those pegs were little, infact, each peg was over 90 ml dose - I can confidently say that.

Negotiating the Snow enroute Tungnath temple trek

But since he do not prefer to listen 'No', so everyone included me gulped the first round. Sitting over drinks with Sandy is like a heavy weight boxing championship- you are being knocked out each moment with his 90 mls peg till you finally say - everything here is revolving, so is the leg of the chicken we brought from Ukhimath market for the evening that GMVN cook Negi and Chamola had made for us. Only Prem is able to take those punches but I bet even he is grasping for breath after a few pegs. I recall Prem also refused to accept the pegs made by Sandy soon after. As for us - the poor fellows - it doesn't matter who makes the peg - Sandy or somebody else. Anyways, we have to drink till the revolving feeling starts engulfing us in its cloud. Morning next day, we got to know Kuldeep bhai was declared as the "winner of the championship" that lasted for over four gruesome hours. The winner of the battle showed no proud-ness for this achievement but Sandy did. We made fun of him since he was over drunk and revolving on the dinner table. That was the only time I saw gap in Sandy's feeling for chicken - he could not eat. He hardly ate any.

Ganesha Temple, 500 mtrs before the emple

Enroute Tungnath Temple Trek

Next morning Kuldeep bhai gave the jars of dry fruits that he was carrying. We made pocket pouches for all. Hired jeep came to receive us. A drop to Chopta and back was agreed for Rs. 1000. After an hour's travel, covering some 30 kms we reached Dugalbitta - the snow spread carpet did not allowed jeep to go any further. That's what I wanted too - to walk. After all that's what we all are here for.

The snow started to get thick - all over the place - as we walked through the jungle patch. The sun was up too. Covering some 2.5 kms on jungle trail, we reached Chopta. The path was well charted - no possibility of confusion. By that time, all my share of dry fruits were already inside my belly. The appetite was back again and at the only open tea shop, we ordered paranthas for all. The activity took fair amount of time and realizing that we started climbing the real part of the trek - towards the temple. By the time we reached half way, each one of us grasping for breath. Sandy was leading, Yash was managing group in between, Sanjay and Ranjan following the tail clicking photographs. Kuldeep & Darshan bhai asked me second time how much more does it require walking? where is the temple? The usual answer is - a bit more and we are there. But we were only half way. It was almost 1 pm and we still not been able to reach the temple though we started from chopta after our parantha session at about 11:20 a.m. But we are not in hurry. In fact idea is to enjoy every bit of it - the white space spreading all over the area - the white snow patches, the shining high Choukhamba and the warm-hearted fellow members joking, talking, coughing and puffing.

The temple bell rang. Abhishek was murmuring something over his phone - video recording. Me and Ranjan tried looking at the Akash-kund and got ourselves ankle deep into the snow. I hate it when snow gets into your shoes and starts melting in through with the heat of the feet. In awe, I tried to tell Ranjan not to come here at akash kund, but he was close already. We reached the temple and suddenly everything was completely holy. As if we are on some pilgrimage. Only thing bothering us is now our dry throats - no water and all snow - taking us nowhere. It was there I remember to be carrying apples that we took as part of trek grocery. Half apple for each - made our day. The worth of a half apple you know when you are standing at 13,000+ feet with no water around.And then we did what you can choose to call as nasty - our classic and cult bare chest photograph - right in the snow desert, in front of the temple. It is something crazy, weird but made us all come together. The ultimate fun. The barometer of our unitedness. The celebration of togetherness - does not matter if we were embracing it or conquering it. And to this day even the quest continues. 

Later that evening another round of championship was initiated and this there were all chicken legs in the pan and all over my plate. 

Plan in brief:

22nd evening: Delhi-Guptkashi bus via Rishikesh covering a distance of about 400 kms. Reached Ghat at 10 a.m. Stayed at GMVN Ukhimath. Visited Deoriataal - 2 kms trek from Saari Village. Approx 16 kms from GMVN Ukhimath. 

23rd - Tungnath Trek - 5.5 kms in total from Dugalbitta, and 3 kms from Chopta

24th - Holy dip at Rudraprayag 

25th morning - office ... no Christmas holiday for us  :(

for more info on Tungnath Click here 

(c) Himanshu

Shiva, Spirituality and Sumeru / Kedarnath

O' ruler of Kedar, the Lord supreme

I come to you for thy blessings,

For the sins I have commit, for the penance I seek.

For the eternal beauty of thyself and the creation,

I bow my head and seek refuge in your shrine,

May the light of your glory bathe me,

Let the mountains standing say it,

Blessed is your abode,

Blessed are the feets for they bring me to you,

Now that I have left,

but I never have left truely,
Call my name again O' Lord,

And make me bow to you again.

The word 'Kedarnath' through search on Google shows about 1,590,000 results. For the ample info that is available on Internet, I planned to only upload selective pics that I have taken during my journey.

My experience, I have summed up already through the Dedication above. However, the spiritual experience is unique and can not be summed up in words, and depends person to person. Try to get one for yourself.

Garud-Chatti and Kedar Parvat

Kedar-Dome

Way to The Shrine of Kedarnath

Massif of Sumeru

View from Ram Bada

Bells at Bhairav Temple - 1kms from the Shrine

Bhairav Devta

Itinerary followed:

Delhi - Guptkashi - Gaurikund (on eve of Dusshera 2011)

Gaurikund (evening 4 pm, raining) - Ram Bada (7 Kms) Night halt @ Kali Kamli Dharamshala

Ram Bada - Kedarnath Shrine (7 kms) Night halt @ GMVN

Kedarnath - Gaurikund. Took Holy Dip in the Kund. Gaurikund - Guptkashi (30 kms) by Jeep. Guptkashi - Rudraparyag (70 kms) by Bus. Night Halt.

Jeep to Rishikesh at 6:30 am. 11 am bus to Delhi. Reach by 7 pm.

Himanshu

For more pics, kindly visit: www.flickr.com/myth_drinker

The Immortal Tulips / Buda Madhmaheshwar

This year has been fortunate and very kind to me. I have had good dose of hiking in the mountains. But I aspire more. Madhmaheshwar (2750 mtrs.) is long due, and its been on my list from quite sometime. The feeling grew more than ever after going through Bhavik Thaker's flickr pics of the place. I was completely mesmerized with the pic that has fog all over the place and clouds floating in the valley and glaciers in the backdrop shining all-white. It reminded me of the Rudranath trek that we did in August 2008.

Imagination started to catch up fast. Mountains. Glaciers. Greener than green forest. Swollen water-falls. And, gushing Madhu Ganga. Picture after picture. And the day was set. 15th July night. We left Delhi late around 1 a.m from ISBT Kasmere Gate. Me, Rajeev Ji, Gagan, Sanjeev & Gaurav. The bus-ride between Delhi to Haridwar was smooth. I managed to get some sleep though in pieces. We changed bus at Haridwar. Haridwar-Rishikesh stretch was a complete misery. It rained hard and bus was in worst health, with water oozing from everywhere. A couple of foreigners onboard were excited looking at the real India.

From Rishikesh, we booked a cab to Ukhimath for Rs. 3000. Then from here boarded G.M.O.U bus for Uniyana at about 4:30. Due to the cracked road, the bus had to stop before Uniyana and a km long steep trek awaited us to climb. We reached Uniyana at 6:30 p.m. And halted for the night, retired to sleep after a spicy hot meal. It was still pouring, though slow. Next day, 6:30 am, we started our trek. At places, there were waterfalls on the road. Big enough for us to think how to cross them without water getting into our shoes.

We reached Ransi around 9 a.m chit-chatting and walking slowly, covering merely 3 kms. At Rakeshwari Devi temple we paid our homage. And took our breakfast. We resumed our journey again to reach Gaundhar that was only 6 kms away. It was all-down and passed through the forest on serpent-trail trek that must had some 8-10 bends. It was here the rain grew heavy and drenched us all. We soaked all of it happily. Soon clouds floating over the valley, and gushing of Madhu Ganga down below could be heard. Fragrance of Earth mixed with mist and cool wind could be felt. The air dived into my lungs through a long breath.

We continued walking, and reached here around 12 p.m very easily at our moderate pace. It is here we ate our lunch. What a hearty meal it was! Hot and light, with lots of ghee over it. It was a traditional Garhwali dish that was soft greenish fluid just like palak. I was the first one to eat, in the kitchen besides the fire. The owner, Bharat Panwar offered to make some dal and sabzi for others on the pretext that he had made that traditional food for themselves so some taste-buds might not approve such food.

Everybody ate heartful except Gagan who is choosy in what he eats. And journey once again resumed at about 2 p.m. 2 kms after Gaundhar was the bridge that leads you to Bantoli. From here the actual trek starts. And we found ourselves getting to the other side of the hill. 9 kms- all climb but beautiful valley-side that opens up but only at the temple which is a plateau. Thick fog engulfed us but the downpour looked refreshing. We maintained our pace and tried to minimise breaks. And we reached Khachrakhal where we sipped upon piping hot tea at a hut-shop. It was raining heavily.

Then came after another 3-4 kms the place called Nanu. Another tea break, we had, chitchatting. Now that the valley has started to broaden but still supressed with the dense forest. But it gave us clear glimpse of the mountain glaciers to our right, north-face. It was like breathing got easy. Soon the rain had stopped. We reached another spot called Maikhamba after walking another 3kms. From here the distance was 3 kms to the temple but the forest grew wilder. The time was 6:00 pm almost and we were worried to reach the temple before sun sets and night stretches itself.

The sunset looked stunning. Molten gold shining over the peaks. Sweet breeze over touching our wet hairs. And occassionly I would shiver with the chill. We were wet and tired by now. The walk that was once pleasant till Gaundhar, now suddenly started to appear monstrous. The path always somehow seem to have yet another bend. And the bends kept on turning us and climb got steeper. We were now kind of fed up with walking. And wondering, if we would be able to make it to the temple today.

Gagan offered some toffees that really saved us from that sinking feeling. But the fear of the dark loomed. A very thin ray of the Sun that is too fainting slowing and the endless jungle that offered bends and bends every now and then, of course not without hiccups. We could hear the voice of our breathing. The last stretch was like - a road that never ends. And we were like - a rider who remains hopeful to see his destination at the very next bend. But in our case, the enthusiasm had died by now and hopes were getting feeble with every step.

Before this last ray of the sun could disappear and before the moon winks at us and takes up the charge for the night; we heard the temple bells. Overheard it once again, and then once again. I could hear the voice over the loudspeaker praising chants of Lord Shiva. Enough for us to charge our legs. And the sound of the loudspeaker echoed once again. Temple was merely at the distance of 300 mtrs now. We rushed to attend the evening ritual - arti - that has started. A quick wash at the tap next to the temple - in the icy cold water that sent shivers to the spine. Inside temple, were few people. An elderly couple, who passed before us. And some locals who are stationed at the temple itself, including the young South-Indian priest. It was damp inside the temple, infact overall the place was cold and damp. I realised this sitting over a cots-wool mat observing the temple from inside. In the sanctum sanatorium, only the priest and his aide could enter. Slowly and steady, i found myself lost in the sweet aroma of dhoop and the chants dedicated to the lord Shiva. Next moment I was crying thinking that Lord took 2 years to invite me to His abode, His holy shrine named Madhmaheshwar, despite my best efforts.

My urge slowly and steadily came down, after a while and I felt at ease. Priest offered us all prasad and the ceremony came to an end. We took refuge for the night in the mandir samiti's dharamshala and didn't care to negotiate with others who were offering more cheaper and better options that that. Afterall we all were dead tired.

Next morning, we started early to visit Buda Madhmaheshwar to see Chaukhamba some 2.5 kms trek though a bit steep. It was a plateau - a big ground with two small kunds housed by rainwater.

There was also an ancient small temple made up of stones of Shiva, and at some distance to its right-side another small temple of Bhairava. We spent some good 2 hours here clicking pictures, catching reflection of peaks in the water, but above all to it, trying to look through the clouds the mount of Chaukhamba. That is what we were there for. On a clear sky day, one could see mighty Chaukhamba and the town of Guptkashi from here. For us in that sense it was not a lucky moment. Because Chaukhamba never unveiled itself. We could just manage to get a glimpse of it with our camera ready and hooked onto it. It mostly remained wrapped well in the layers of thick clouds over its mount. That was heart-sinking, but nothing could be done about it. It was getting cloudy and slowly drops from heaven started to pour down. This was the time we knew we should step down. But it never rained, just the tiny drops scaring you every

now and then. I was completely lost into the beauty of the place. Greenfields. Open skies. Glaciers. Clouds. And a small beautiful temple that is often worshiped. I am sure God must have loved it here. God must have selected this place carefully and so it deserves to be holy.

Chaukhamba, a glimpse that I could capture. But visibility was quite poor and waiting for it to show up - the chance was almost negligible. We started to come back with first few drops on our head. We paid our homage to Shetrapal Devta whose small temple is just 200 mtrs away from Madhmaheshwar shirne. It is on the route from the temple leads to Nandikund, via Pandu Sera famous for bugyals.

We came back to the temple. While on our way back I was delighted to see many tiny colorful flowers on the carpet of the meadows everywhere, mainly purple, maroon and yellow. I have seen them before and everytime I have seen them, I have liked them. These were like thoughts, floating around everywhere, in every sight, in every turn, on every bend, on every trail. Yet they won't be the main thing that we would want to see. Not the main thing or the reason - why you are here. Yet not the one of the things that gets noticed every now and then or discussed with peers. No one does that, and tulips don't complain. They stay where they were, they die where they were and they re-born where they were.

One after another, many small flowers different colors, different shapes yet not a line that describes them and not a word that glorifies them. Not in this blog, not anywhere that I have sinked my eyes into. Good things in life are such, often un-noticed. Now that I've come back - its not the Chaukhamba, Clouds, Mountains, Rain or for that matter the temple, but those tulips that continue to live inside me, dominate my mind all the time. Tulips are your part of good life, cherish them to bloom.

(c) Himanshu

Itinenary:

15th July Night: Delhi-Rishikesh by bus. Reached by 8 A.M.

16th July: Cab to Okhimath for Rs. 3000; Bus to Uniyana. Reached by 6 p.m.

17th July: Uniyana- Ransi (3kms) - Gaundhar (6kms) - Bantoli (2kms) - Madhmaheshwar (9kms) - TOTAL 20 kms approx.

18th July: Buda Madhmaheshwar - Gaundhar.

19th July: Gaundhar-Uniyana-Ukhimath (by shared jeep). Ukhimath - Rudraprayag (by bus). Rudraprayag-Rishikesh (cab for Rs. 2200). Rishikesh at 9 pm. Boarded bus to Delhi.

20th July: Delhi@6 a.m. Office by 10 a.m.

Jageshwar, The Deodar Heaven

As soon as the musk of flourishing deodars mixed in the cool air enters into your lungs through a deep breath, you know you have arrived in Jageshwar. The cluster of temples dated back to Chand dynasty who ruled during the 8-9th century, are dedicated to Lord Shiva. It is also said that Jageshwar or also known as Jagnath Mandir is one of Jyotirlinga, of the total 12. However for me, history concerns less and the feeling of being one with the nature matters the most.

Jageshwar Jyotirlinga Temple

It was a friend’s marriage at Moradabad. After much difficulty me and Saurabh managed to hook onto one Uttarakhand roadways bus that was going to Ramnagar from Anand Vihar. Initially the conductor refused to take Moradabad passengers and asked us to cough extra indirectly or take ticket till Thakurdwara, which we agreed too. But soon after as the bus prepared to leave at 4 p.m, the flock of desperate people got into the bus and we found it hard to breathe; but thank God we had the seat.

Scene at Anand Vihar Bus Terminus

After much ado, the driver facing the ire of standing mob, started to pick up with speed but to our fate, it was all jammed in Garh Mukteshwar. We got down in Moradabad around 9:30 p.m. Mohit, saw me and his good ole’ smile touched with warm sense of gratitude. But we both were too hungry for smiles and greetings. I called up my other friends, Anup (curie), Rajendra (ravs) and Deepak (pahari tota) to enquire about their status. Soon all arrived and before the baraat could start, we decided to have some quick snacks, eaten really quickly except for Ravs who preferred enjoying the pegs.

Jageshwar Bazaar

Deepak dropped me and Saurabh to Rampur and left for Barreily. Enroute we saw a corpse with its head chopped and no blood stains on the highway. It was enough to leave us desperate for some moment. Rest the traffic jam got us sulking.

We reached Rampur around 3:40 a.m. Roadways bus dropped us at Haldwani after 1.5 hrs around 5 a.m. We took shared jeep service to Almora, who drove really fast and in another 2.5 hrs we were at Almora, the heritage city of Kumaon.

Cluster of Jageshwar Temples

Next we took another shared jeep to Aartola from where Jageshwar is 3 kms on foot along the neat and fine road or one can opt for paid jeep service. We decided to walk and stretch. Afterall this is what we were there for – to take big long walks amidst the deodars or daruvan. We found ourselves a comfortable place within our budget - Jagadamba lodge, for Rs. 100 a room (N.K. Joshi Ji, 05962-263026). We bathed ourselves in the warm soothing sun and under the cold water from the tap, to prepare to visit the temples that were some 200 mtrs away. We saw fair amount of lodges, and restaurants to our surprise spread within some 500 mtrs towards the temple. This was quite disappointing but then we did not see much people around. And, Saurabh remarked “off season”!

Florishing Cedar (Deodar)

Temples, no doubt, were more than a beauty and much more than delight. A declared national heritage, the temples looked very pious with fine grain of stones chiseled into different pictures of Shiva, all on one single piece of stone, which are nowhere to be found now. We offered our prayers in all the 4 main temples – Mahamrituanjaya, Kedarnath, Hanuman and, most important, Jageshwar Jyotirlinga – alongwith clusters of other temples devoted to the god Sun. We came back to our lodge after taking a hearty meal at a nearby restaurant for Rs. 35 a plate, and slept like monsters. It was when Bisht Ji announced the dinner, at 9:15 p.m we got up and dozed off again. But since we slept early around we got up in the middle of night. First at 2:30 a.m, then at 4:15 a.m, it was still dark; and finally at 6.20 a.m we were out of bed.

Names of Jageshwar Temples

We clicked photographs and offered our last prayer before leaving Jageshwar to reach Vradh Jageshwar. The Vradh Jageshwar temple was some 3 kms straight up to the top of the hill. The route was clean, a bit steep and passes though the thick jungle. It was most beautiful – the feeling of nothingness. And Saurabh remarked “this is the place to be”! I nodded to show my agreement to the statement. We reached Vradh Jageshwar temple around 10:10 a.m in some 1.5 hrs without resting but we occasionally joked about things, with Saurabh caught up in dilemma – whether it was 3 kms, which seemed to him nothing less than 5 kms. But we reached there without any special effort. We met Chokidar, with whom we again confirmed the story of Jyotirlinga of Jageshwar temple. In his words, story goes like this.

“After Parvati dedicated herself to Yagya-Kund, Shiva got depressed and started to roam in the daruvan (deodar) of Jageshwar as a nude sage. Saptkeshwar’s wife who was collecting the kandmool phal (beat roots) got horrified at the sight of nude sage and reported this to husband. The sage Saptkeshwar agitated on this and without knowing that it was Shiva, cursed the nude sage. This place is called Dandeshwar Mahadev – a km before Jageshwar temples. Though it didn’t affect the lord Shiva but then to honour the Saptkeshwar’s word, Shiva himself disintegrated his linga. The 12 jyotirling’s are where Shiva’s linga pieces fell. One of which is here in Jageshwar Mahadev”.

Jungle Trek to Vradh Jageshwar

Though I wasn’t taking much interest, Saurabh was recording this all in his diary, every word cautiously and as being told by this old man in his seventies.

I was rather enjoying the D 80 in my hand to click the great Himalayan ranges visible well from Vradh Jageshwar temple courtyard. We sipped upon tea with Bhatt Ji, the Pujari, after offering our prayers at the temple and bathed in the sun conversing with Pujari and the old man. It was deserted completely – no tourist, no village people. Pujari told us about ‘Bhog’ to the deity at 12 p.m. This is a regular feature at Jageshwar temple as well.

Vradh Jageshwar

But it seemed he didn’t want us to wait for the pua (wheat flour mixed with jaggery and fried in oil), neither had we time. Our future awaited something as per to our plan – to reach Chitai Golu – the famous deity of Kumaon Hills and offer prayers to the lord. We started to depart from Vardh Jageshwar, along the road. After walking some 3 kms, we had our meal at Himdarshan, a lodge, whose owner cooked us Jhuli-Bhaat (kadi-rice), on our request.

We clicked and bathed in the sunlight of the bright afternoon Sun in leisure, ate our meal in the open and in sight of the great Indian Himalayan peaks like Nanda Devi, Panchachuli and many more. We spent some 2 hrs there and by 2 p.m started again to come down to Almora via Panwanaula. We walked some 7-8 kms with our bag-packs and again stuffed ourselves into a jeep. The nothingness, feeling of void, which is scientifically using no brain power and no hence “no-mental load”, was still very much there with us.

Vradh Jageshwar to Panwanaula

Nanda Devi

Panchachuli Peaks

At Chitai Golu, we refreshed ourselves in the slowly setting sun, and chillness of the air. We offered prayer, clicked few photographs and sat quietly. After a while, we found ourselves on the road again walking and searching for a jeep ride to Almora which is some 6 kms from here. This is when a car stopped and the guy popped out of the window asking us to get in, offering a lift. We got in. They were returning from some marriage and and were headed for Rampur. This is how we reached Almora around 6:30 p.m. We thanked them and thanked Golu as well for this comfortable arrangement.

Golu Devta

The trip was a cakewalk this time (if you have read account of my other trips). It gave us ample opportunity to let loose ourselves. To simply become a man self-sufficient in thought, self-contained in mind, and self-sustained in action, in the fertile land of Nothingness and Deodars.

Itinerary we followed:

Friday (evening): Delhi (NH 24) - Moradabad - Rampur - Haldwani (260 kms).

Saturday (morning): Haldwani - Bhowali - Almora (100 kms), took shared jeep @ Rs. 100 each. Again, the shared jeep from Almora to Aartola (35kms) @ Rs. 70 for two. Aartola to Jageshwar 3kms on-foot. Night Halt at Jagadamba Lodge.

Sunday (early morning): Vradh Jageshwar (3kms on-foot), and to Panwanaula (some 8kms on-foot), along the road. Shared jeep to Almora.

© Himanshu

For pics please see www.flickr.com/myth_drinker

Road to Rudranath Part 2/ Gopeshwar, Garhwal, Uttaranchal

It was around 5:30 in morning when I woke up after a deep sleep though my body still was aching. I came out from the dormitory onto the side balcony and stretched myself. It was still dark outside and silent. One could see the giant gate on right that welcome tourists while bus stand of Gopeshwar at the left. Gagan was up to, and then almost all one after another.

We refreshed ourselves and the Independence Day parade down on the road started with student representative from different schools marching with their school flags followed by other students in long queue.

School Parade, Independence Day. Also seen is the gaint gate in the backdrop.

One after another, the student of all class and size; boys and girls; in blues and reds and whites and greens; passed by like marching ants in perfect line and the teachers mandating the line and their behavior. I clicked few of them but there was low light. Meanwhile our time was ready and out for adventure. But there was no transport to drop us at Sagar to start our adventure.

We spotted a jeep, two fellows smoking and talking inside. They agreed to give us a drop for 100 bucks which we readily agreed for. Sanjeev and Mohit started to gag among themselves and then soon the environment became lively with Sanjeev and Gagan streaming in. I was enjoying quite much but we were late by some one and half hours. The time was 6:50 am. We reached Sagar some 6kms from Gopeshwar. The gate along the road says, ‘Rudranath Ji Mandir Ka Rasta - 22 kms’ and the small iron gate was locked. So we jumped.

Sagar, the start point of Trek

We met two locals on the way after walking 2kms. One was the meat-seller and was going to fetch some meat from Shepherds at Panar. The other one did not talked or introduced. They asked about us and asked us to join them to smoke ‘Bhangnath’ (Opium Grass). Mohit volunteered and took few drags. We started moving up again.

Next I remember meeting an old village woman (from Gangolgaon, a nearby village) who was also going to the temple. And we started walking along. Sanjeev was with me and the other three fellows were behind us. Me, Sanjeev and the old lady were walking along. Soon we reached a flat ground which was some 5kms from Sagar. It had one ‘Rudresh’ Dhaba. We decided to sit and wait for our companions to come. Soon they came and together we sipped upon tea and ate maggi.

Meat-seller (left) & his companion

The old lady took tea with us while awaiting for her companions from another village to come and join her there. Soon people flooded and we were like a herd of coloured sheep. The time was 9:50. We resumed our trek. The real trek starts from here. Till Panar, it was some 9kms sharp, steep uphill trek. The track was all muddy and quite slippery. Our eyes could see clouds approaching us fast. And in no time the downpour started gradually.

We had our raincoats out soon. We (me and Sanjeev) lost our companions (Mohit, Gagan and Sanjeev 2)) again and joined the villagers and a group of 6 students from IIT Roorkee. Sanjeev would often sit for rest, ask me to wait for him and make faces while cursing his life. In the meanwhile villagers were out of sight.

Sanjeev-2(green); Sanjeev (khaki) and Mohit (black) seen here with Villagers

I would ask him to speed up despite knowing that we were not in competition to anyone. Villagers any case have this competitive advantage over anybody who would occasionally go to such straight uphill treks. I was also feeling tired by now and the path between the damp land, slippery surface, dense forest and amidst fog and occasional rain won’t end. Besides, the other three were nowhere to be seen.

We must have covered some 6kms by now which total amount to be around 11-12kms. The time was some 1:30 now. We decided to halt down near a water source and eat the bread and butter that we were carrying. Now that we two were alone and all the villagers and even the IIT guys have disappeared.

Lots of water streams & falls were visibile along the route

After 20 minutes, we started again. Sanjeev was agitated. Resting too often. Asking me to slow down, shouting from behind. Me too was tired but I had to keep ourselves going. I was wondering how come everyone could get so much ahead of us that they become hardly visible from the place we were at. I doubted my capabilities too. We both were by now become so much negative. I was also worried about my fellows who were still down and assumptions surrounding my mind – Would they come along or just return back from there?

Sanjeev was not carrying any cell phone and my Idea connection displayed ‘no network coverage’.

Soon 3 villagers crossed us whom we asked about our fellows by giving them the description of them. To our shock we were told that our friends were still quite down. And, I again feared about them – if they would come or not.

Clouds floating upon the Valley

At 3 around we reached Lyuti Bugyal, and found little comfort in a small hut owned by Bisht Ji. We were half wet. It would rain sometimes and than after a flash it would go and then keep coming back and again. But at Lyuti, it got worse. It started raining hard. We took shelter under the roof. Sanjeev stretched himself on the big black plastic sheet spread over the dry grass as a mattress after eating. This was the only provision to sleep the night at Lyuti Bugyal. However, Lyuti was a plain terrace on the ridge on the chest of the mountain and the head was not too far now.

The head was the Panar, our destination for today. From Lyuti we started to march again after great resistance from Sanjeev, but I was adamant. As rain slowed down, we resumed. We would often sit and walk and then sit. We could feel our heart sinking. It was a state of breathlessness. We walk little, and get tired so we would sit down soon.

Fog & the Jungle

It was getting quite tough for us to climb with our bagpacks. It was cloudy all over and rain may comeback anytime soon, I said to myself.

Sanjeev at Lyuti Bugyal

We reached Panar finally, which was 2 kms from Lyuti, in more than one and half hour at 4:30 pm. It started to rain again and we moved to a hut nearby.

The guy arranged for our rest while we ordered for tea. We were dead tired having walked some 13-14kms overall. And, Sanjeev found his comfort over the mat, covered with blankets on the ground which was not certainly clean and smell of goat and sheep.

He covered himself with two blankets and retired to sleep. I retired soon after clicking few pics around and sipping tea. The time was some 5:10. The rain stopped and sunshine recovered.

Panar was the flat terrain of vast grassland, a plateau with 3 small huts that belonged to shepherds. Although only one was commercially operating. We slept however semi-conscious in the cold since it got chilling in the night and the surface under the mat was uneven and not true flat. It was not a good night I realized when often I woke up first at 2 am, then 3:20 and finally up at 5:30 at the sound of footsteps of ponies. Ponies made themselves comfortable under the steel shed outside our room which later I got to know were the forest property.

One of boys of the Hut at Panar

It was raining outside. Everyone else was sleeping. I suddenly remember some village girls were singing songs last night in the adjacent room which was not very much entertaining but then I had nothing else to listen to except the sound of rain drops on the steel shed and Sanjeev’s snoring.

I asked Sanjeev to get ready. In the meanwhile I ordered the guy in the hut, for a bucket of hot water to bathe and tea to drink. We were ready by 6:30 to do the remaining of the trek. Sanjeev suggested why not request the hut-guy to call up at Lyuti and ask whether our fellows are there or not.

I appreciated his point and requested the person. He agreed and sent his boy for the same. The boy would hold the reliance cell phone up in the air and locate for signals while walking towards a particular point where he knew signal would come.

Me @ Panar, awaiting to make call to Lyuti for my friends


I was with him and I managed to speak to my friends who rested at Lyuti Bugyal. I told Gagan to come up. Soon they were up in an hour while I sipped upon another tea and Sanjeev on phone with his ‘her’ on the phone that he borrowed from Sanjeev-2. I clicked few pics. It was pouring from the clouds though marginally.

Soon all three of them up were up and we rejoiced the moment of our re-union. I inquired with them why did they could not manage to reach Panar. The answer - Gagan was unwell. The other day he ate some 7-8 corns at a time despite my best efforts to stop him.

Sanjeev at the Hut, we stayed the night in room on left to the Hut (seen open window in the pic)

I giggled in my mind while Mohit smiled exposing his frontline teethes out of which one was missing. We left our bagpacks at Panar only and started for the road again. Road to Rudranath Ji, that is now more enjoyable with all 5 of us together. But soon this joy ended when again we begin to experience the tiredness but for me it was due to empty stomach. The time was 8:30 and we covered some 2kms from Panar.

Gagan leading this time shouted my name in excitement after seeing the gate that resembled the gate of the temple at Tungnath just before the temple comes at some 500 mtrs. Gagan thought we were almost there, at the temple. Little did he knew that temple is some 5-6kms from here.

Happy Trio (We met at Panar)

We walked along the hill side and after we cross this temple gate look alike, we were inside the valley. The trail first goes down and then along the hill side with front side (opposite to hill) opens wide. If weather would have been clear (no mist), one could see the great Himalayan ranges along the valley. But we preferred the rain drenched, wet muddy land and cloudy views over it so there we were experiencing it. We reached the temple at 12:30 around. Almost everyone that once walked with us the other day – the villagers, IIT boys and some others, were returning back.

Gagan overjoyed seeing temple gate

Villagers went to celebrate Poornima and Rakhi otherwise it is rare that people could be seen walking to Rudranath Ji due to this tough trek. Perhaps among the toughest of the treks in India. We waited for Mohit and Sanjeev to reach. Gagan suggested waiting so that we all could offer our homage to the deity, together. So we ordered for tea. It was raining again. I preferred not to come inside the hut or to sit beside the fire like Sanjeev-2 and Gagan did. I enjoyed standing out, watching people, sometimes the temple in the front on my left and enjoy the nature. The floating clouds could make you fall in love with the anomaly with which they change shape. All I could do is imagine with a thoughtless chase for them.

We all joined in to perform the ritual. We paid our homage to the Lord Shiva without His permission we could not have been invited here. We thanked the deity and sought His blessings. The priest gave brahamkamal to each one of us. And, then we were offered mahaprasad and invited to eat at bhandara the poorie-choley that I have been eyeing on since I saw people enjoying them. We five and Priest@ Rudranath Temple

They really tasted as good as the atmosphere was full of serenity and pureness. The drops from heaven, the vast grasslands and small purple flowers stretched all over, streams swelled with water flowing carelessly; and the face of the deity that has impressions I still could recall.

We started soonafter for come back to Panar. We dislocated again while coming back. I did it intentionally to preserve the scenes that I had experienced and was now exercising in my mind. I took some of best shots here while coming back.

Trail moving along the valley that leads to temple

Enroute Panar from the temple

Approaching Panar (Backview towards the temple)

Great Meadows & Vast Grasslands

Finally Panar

The weather was now that fine and rain stopped completely for the first time in last 2 days. The mist disappeared and it appeared all green all over. I was completely overjoyed. I would sometimes sit, sometimes lie down, smell the air, try to put it all in one go into my lungs and breathe out with ease. I was again thoughtless and chasing the views with my two eyes wide open.

Finally I reached Panar. Already Gagan and Sanjeev-2, had bundled themselves into sheets of blanket laid to rest. I ordered for milk. I wandered outside a little and then started to seek my place to rest.

Gagan & Sanjeev-2 comfotably numb

Soon, Mohit and Sanjeev also came. Sanjeev seemed to be in more painful state. I helped him in changing his wet clothes and he slept in between me and Sanjeev-2 as soon as he lay down. He looked unwell.

We were not sleeping and neither talking. This time we got our bedding within the hut all five of us in a row. We had walked today some 16kms and all wet and tired. We took moderate dinner on bedside only and then I took some hot milk.

Morning we all were up by 6 and started to come down from Panar. Sanjeev was in bad taste. Deprived of good food, and tired of walking. We all had swollen legs, blisters and we were wet again. The rain started again.

Going Down (Back to Sagar)

Raincoats did not help much. Infact to me it seems umbrella is much better an option. It atleast allows you to breath. We were chasing a trail downwards that would seem nowhere to be ending. But we knew it would end. While it was getting hard for us to get down due to slippery surface. Every now and then we would slip on the mud or get our shoes wet while crossing the streams.

It stopped raining just when we reached back to Sagar but now for all of us we would never stop discussing this experience with the people about this road to the temple of Rudranath.

Itinerary Description

Day 1: 14th August 2008 - Rishikesh @ 7 AM (Boarded On Bus from Delhi at 12 P.M on 13th which is some 260Kms), Took Bus for Gopeshwar @ 9:30AM, Reached Gopeshwar @ 4 PM (210 Kms from Rishikesh, raining whole day), Rest at GMVN dormitoary @ Rs. 100 per bed.

Day 2: 15th August 2008 - Gopeshwar to Sagar (6kms) by Jeep, Paid Rs. 100/- and started trek@ 7:30 AM to Rudranath (some 22kms on foot of which 7kms is very steep and tough) Reached Panar covering some 14 kms and Night Halt.

Day 3: 16th August (Rakhi & Poornima) - Started trek @ 8 around and reached temple after covering 8 kms at 1 PM, Paid our homage to Lord Shiva and started comeback, Came to Panar back @ 5 pm and clicked lots of pics enroute.

Day 4: 17th August - Started early morning @ 6 AM and reached Sagar by 12, took bus and reached Gopeshwar and after lunch for Rishikesh, Reached Rishikesh amidst heavy rains and lots of landslides enroute @ 9 PM. Boarded Bus for Delhi @ 10:30 p.m and reached back @ 6AM. Then office @ 9:40 AM… with swollen legs…very hectic!!!

© himanshu For more pics please visit www.flickr.com/myth_drinker