Road To Rudranath Part 1/ Gopeshwar, Uttarakhand

Just when I was busy deciding the itinerary for the upcoming trek to Binsar, near Thailisain in Garhwal, I received call from Gagan. He asked “where we’d go this time?”

I remember of having told him multi times about the Binsar plan including the last Sunday when I visited him and yet he asked. His vocal seemed to me low on enthusiasm and bitter as compared to my excited travel mood. How enthusiastically, I have been waiting for this Independence Day weekend to come and the chap now is asking 3 days before – where?

Sagar, this is where the trek starts from

I again narrated the set of the story to him and the itinerary that I was in the process of designing when in the middle he asked “Would that be really good? I mean like the Tungnath trip?” And, I begin to wonder what has triggered this comparison. Soon I understood there is no point exciting him with what Binsar might offer us. I gave up without resistance as he started to mention the Tungnath scenes which I thought useless to compare with Binsar. It is because the only commonality between them was that – both were the temple and form of Shiva, the deity.

And I suggested “let’s go to Rudranath”! This existed as an alternative option in my plan. I have been browsing a lot about this on the internet, and even consulted Manu, my friend, as well for his views on this trek. Since we had less time in hand I was less keen on doing the Rudranath trek and then I knew it’s a tough trek too.

We, the trekkers! (Five)

But, I asked Gagan to see some pics of Rudranath on flickr.com which he promptly did the same time. He exclaimed with a certain tone and enthusiasm “kya scene hai… mast hai yaar” and I knew that I will have to design a new travel plan now. Next day, I chatted with Manu on gmail, requesting him to prepare me a travel plan while I too was looking for the information on Net to plan the itinerary. He readily agreed and by next day mailed me the desired info.

Then just one day before at 7 in the evening, right when we had to leave for the trip on August 13 night, Gagan called up and said to postpone the trip to 14th night, since he needed a day to prepare and submit his MBA assignments.
Depriving me of this trip was unthinkable as I had prepared and planned it for quite much a time. Almost a quarter of people in my office know that I had planned a trip and which I would describe to them with sheer thrill. However, all this time, I forget to apply for leave and now I feared the tension about the grant of leave.

Villagers... moved really fast. Next day was Rakhi and Poornima...so these people want to offer tribute to Bhagwan Rudranath ! Though we wanted the same as well...

It was Bimla Madam whom I approached with my request for leave for two days with complete plans. I fear what if I might be asked to be present here for any meeting.. Bimla madam suggested writing a mail to Sir which I did after a small thought on what I should tell sir (that I want 2 leave for trekking and how he would have reacted. God, I was in big dilemma).

Parallel to this, there was this other group who was interested in coming along – Sanjeev and Mohit. Both were known to me for some 3 years almost. While Mohit had a limited interaction with me, Sanjeev would often call and tease me – where we would go, with a touch of emotional element. Sometimes duo would speak to me with weirdly excitement and I would smile within me thinking – how ignorant they were about my plans for trek!

While my conversations with Sanjeev and Mohit grew more regular regarding the trip, I found them pulling my legs more often when I would say would you guys be able to walk a lot since we were required to cover 22kms bare foot uphill climb. They would giggle and convey me their excitement with boast about their strengths that they thought I was underrating. And, I said to myself, how much ignorant these two fellows are?

I was clicking enroute, covered some 5-6kms so far

It was 11 pm August 12th night, Gagan came to my place. I suggested him to come over so that we two could sit together and prepare his assignments which we could only start at 1:00 a.m. around. I finished one by 2:40 a.m and went to sleep. Gagan slept too. In the morning at 5:00 around, I saw Gagan already up. Soon he prepared himself, we sipped our tea, and he was off to his college with promise to reach at ISBT Kashmere Gate by 10:30 p.m. Soon I started to load my bagpack.

I reached office and just when about to resume work, Sanjeev called up and in low tone spoke to me about his issue. It was about a life insurance policy that he was required to sell. Unless he would give some business today to his firm he was employed with, he can not dare go. He was given a dose from his boss who happened to be a strict lady this morning. To endorse his seriousness, he called up twice and then thrice and many times then till he took my words that I would help him to get a policy from my source when we comeback.

I wondered how much dependent people are on people. I wanted him to come along for the trip and he needed me to save his job. So we were interdependent instead of independent as I thought about it right when e-mailing my heartiest wishes to my seniors and colleagues at the office for upcoming Independence Day.

15th August @ Gopeshwar School students marching with pride shouting sologans 'Hamara Bharat Mahan'... Yes it is... Why though is not clear...

I reached Kashmere Gate at 09:50 p.m waiting for Sanjeev and Mohit who gave me their words to reach on-time. But they did not come by the said time and neither called up to give reason. Same happened with Gagan. Clock crossed 10:30 but he never bothered to call me. So first I called up Sanjeev, and he said in 10 minutes he would be there. Next Gagan did not picked up at all. After 15 minutes at 10:45, Sanjeev called up and asked for 2 more minutes. I was feeling very agitated. Sanjeev and Mohit arrived after some 12 minutes at 11:00 p.m. I gave a good lecture to both of them which I know would hardly have any impact on them but I delivered right there.

Next I called up Gagan. This time he picked up and said in 10 minutes he would reach citing that he has taken an auto and now awaiting his friend to come at Ashram Chowk, which I reacted with harsh words. I was infact determined to leave without him but somehow he got me believe in his words.

Walk through the dense forest amidst the mist ...and weather signaled RAIN!

And, next I called him up again at 11:30 to which he said “its raining here, I am struck up in traffic”! Another call I made at 12:15 wondering how much careless someone could be for not understanding somebody else’s feelings especially when this somebody is a long time friend. I was feeling irritated and could have left him to his fate but instead I continued giving lecture to Sanjeev and Mohit for their untimely time management. Gagan never bothered to call back to tell about himself. The one good excuse he would give every time I called was about the load of his assignments. Finally he reached with his friend named Sanjeev, a short heighted slim chap not looking very cheerful. After Gagan apologized then only I returned back to my normal taste. Now we had two ‘Sanjeev’ – 1 & 2.

We boarded the U.P Roadways bus at 1:00 am for Rishikesh which was some semi-full. In the bus I introduced them to each other and soon we went into trance called sleep though awake individually.

Bisht Family, we met at Lyuti Bugyal, after walking some 11 kms. The time was 3:20 pm.

We reached Rishikesh at 7 a.m on 14th morning. Next we walked up towards the Tehri bus stand of Rishikesh to get our bus to Gopeshwar with our bag packs. I again resumed my lecture and aggression for having started late from Delhi and having missed the 4 a.m Uttarakhand Roadways bus to Gopeshwar. The group listened and ignored and chose to sit down for breakfast.

Me and Gagan took bananas – 3 each, while rest of the team had Choley Bhatoore and Paranthas. I was continuously pushing them to rush up the things to reach our destination on time. But who cares!

Our time management was poor. So often we had clash. I try to drive them fast while they maintained their own pace. The problem with me was that I wanted us to reach as soon as we could, while my fellows did not seemed interested in the itinerary planned and had laggard approach. It was the clash of seriousness with non serious and leisure type attitude which I and my fellows - both did not like.

Sanjeev-1 pretty much at comfort at Bisht's until i said we wont stay here and have to move to Panar. He was depressed walking for so long hours since 7:20 am.

At 9:00 am we boarded G.M.O.U bus to Gopeshwar which started at 9:30. Like most of the drivers, he also displayed the state of no emotions and smoked. We passed Devprayag where we had kadi, choley and chawal; Srinagar, where me and Sanjeev-2 got down for SBI ATM Service; Rudraprayag, where we tasted some sweetmeat and; Nandprayag where the bus conductor informed us to board another bus already waiting, for rest of the journey. The swapping was done due to less onboard passengers. But soon others poured in.

Panar, finally!

The distance between Rudraprayag and Nandprayag was some 40kms that covered Gauchar enroute; moving along the river Alaknanda from Srinagar though I missed out most of the sight seeing in between as I fall prey to the lord of the sleep. I woke up as the bumber of the bus jerked and i feared about my camera which was just above it little above over the rear tyres of the bus and saw the watch. It was for 25 minutes that i had slept total but that was effective. We guys haven't had slept for last night whole and this day whole.

God, we look like zombies... No, the smiling zombies! At 5 pm we reached our destination Gopeshwar. We got out of the bus and i lead them to GMVN for accomodation. We took the dormitory @ 80/- per chap. The best part was the room that had only 5 beds which perfectly fit our group size and allowed no scope for for more people. Almost all of us damn tired but showed no weakness or ailing sign. We refreshed ourselves and went down to the market which starts where the GMVN's stairs end, hunting for GOOD food. we have been surviving on biscuits and namkeens and on a shared i-pod!

Back to back... starting our trek from Sagar :) at 7:20 am

It felt great. Mohit brought the bottle of Old Monk out of the bag and some of us said Cheers!

See Part 2 / Road to Rudranath for the next half of this 'wet, on-the-run story'....

Tungnath By Chance/ Ukhimath, Garhwal

If I could escape my dull and hectic life of Delhi for forever, Ukhimath could be the place where I would want to be settled down for my new abode.

I visited Ukhimath first time in July (2006) end, and before I could do more fact-finding we had our bagpacks ready. Me and Gagan. It was a chance talk that I had with Gagan a day before wherein I mentioned to him the place and talked about a vacation together. Gagan, not sure at the time, gave his unsure ‘Yes’ with a ‘But’! I knew Gagan since my graduation days. He has always been around since then. Half textile engineer and more than full - a fabric expert - had just resigned and this was the opportunity I was trying to get upon. A puzzled Gagan called up in the afternoon to inform me the unexpected. And we were ready. Like all the times, he came late at ISBT, Delhi, than planned at 9:35 p.m. I was awaiting him for last 2 hours. Finally, he came and I gave him what I was holding back inside me.

We immediately took the bus to Rishikesh. I had ensured the eatables for us and after we chatted for some 2-3 hours about things in our lives, we stretched flat at the back seats of half empty bus. We reached Rishikesh at 4:40 am after covering some 240km of distance. It was pouring slowly. I asked one of the auto drivers for a drop at Tehri bus stand which was 2kms, but since he demanded a Rs. 10 flat for each, I refused to be cheated away and we started walking fast to reach the venue. Gagan cursed me for that!

Confluence of Alaknanda & Mandakini At Rudraprayag

At Tehri bus stand of Rishikesh, we took tea and an hour break. It was at 6:30 our bus will leave for Rudraprayag which was some 120 kms from here. We took the side seat for two, Gagan at the window side. Bus started and we smiled to each other for the trip to Hills has started.

At near around 9:20 we reached Devprayag which was enroute. I had tea again while Gagan preferred taking a look around. We discussed further about his first experience with hills. We moved again and by 11:50 reached Rudraprayag. Gagan was tired and so was me. So we made a halt in a dingy cheap room for (Rs. 200 which was Rs. 50 more a price to pay) but with all windows open it was a well lit and nice ventilated room. We changed and went out to eat.

Devprayag, Confluence of Alaknanda & Bhagirathi that forms Ganga

We spent our time by Alaknanda’s side in warm sum and glacier water in which we put our feet and then yell ‘Chill hai yaar’! We were more than happy. No family, no work, nothing to feel and nothing to share, just the plain sound of flowing Alaknanda and our offbeat communication to content ourselves.

Next I realized when we got back to our room, that I forgot the memory card for my digital camera, at home only. So we spent the evening searching for the card at every nook and corner helplessly but no success. We retired at our bed soon at 8:00 pm. Next day we got ready at 8 and planned to go back to Srinagar which was enroute some 30 kms back from the place we were at. Going back was the chance we were about to take because we were not certain whether we will get the Card there or not? Anyway, we reached Srinagar – bigger and better city life than Rudraprayag. While I waited for the shop to open, Gagan opted for a close shave. Luck was with us, though we got the card for a higher a price at Rs. 1300. We stuffed our stomach and prepared to resume our journey. We reached Rudraprayag again, got down and started locating for bus that goes to Ukhimath.

Rudraprayag, Mandakini Side (on right) while Alaknanda comes from Left

We reached Ukhimath at 2:00 pm after travelling for some 60-70 kms. The route was rough and bad patches on road appeared all over. The route was all along the river Mandakini through Tilwara and Chiliyasaur and finally the Ghat from where one road goes to Guptakashi and other goes to Ukhimath.

Initially the program was to go to Madhyamaheshwar so we were told that the same bus that leaves at 4p.m from Ukhimath market shall drop us at Uniyana some 18-20 kms further. We had the time at hand. Some 2 hours. We had ‘Dal Chawal’ which Gagan never liked, and for me it was as usual ok. After it was around 4:00 pm we enquired about the bus and got the unexpected reply. The bus actually developed some snag as we were told and would not go today further.

Ukhimath Bus Stand (and the market)

So we returned down the market to GMVN our first choice to stay. Chamola Ji, the care taker and Rawat Ji, the cook, we met there who offered the room but tariff was quite high at Rs. 600 for room. So we planned to move after a cup of tea to search for another night halt place. We got accommodation at Anushree lodge (owned by Tiwari Ji) for Rs. 200 which was quite a clean new room with new bedding. Later, that evening we went for the outing, met some children from some village nearby, clicked pics and had good time. Gagan looked over- joyous. We returned back at 7:20 to have our dinner at GMVN and from there retuned back to our room which was some 1 km far. Soft downpour was continuously signaling of bad weather to start anytime now.

The room had no light despite the connection. Some fault was being located. As we lay down I discussed with Gagan about option of visiting Madhyamaheshwar and we were ready to get up at 5:00 and leave. It was 9:10 when somebody knocked the door. It was Tiwari’s nephew asking us to join for dinner. We politely rejected. He went back smiling only to come back with Tiwari himself. Tiwari Ji, in some early 40s, looked quite strong and commanding. And politely he said; join us over for some hot milk, which I and Gagan were happy to hear about. While sipping upon the thick milk, he suggested us to visit Tungnath.

Guptakashi, as seen from Ukhimath (in the evening)

I remember of having seen the picture of Tungnath at the Survey of India map on Garhwal Hills. I was carrying the map too. Tiwari Ji was of the opinion that for Madhyamaheshwar you might not manage to get any vehicle and said moreover it would be risky trekking due to continuous downpour. Though, I completely agreed with him, I still wanted to go to Madhyamaheshwar. At the same time, I was interested in Tungnath too. Choices were always the problems for me. When we entered back our room, Gagan talked to his family and came to know about his interview schedule right after the 2 days. He wanted to do an MBA and I remember clearly having told by him about this dream as a major life goal. We observed silence. He suddenly said ‘I’ll be going back for this interview’ though he didn’t wanted to miss the trip and things to happen this way. It was a bad night after a full bright day. And the thunderstorm started.

It rained all night. I woke up at 5:10 out of the shiver I guess. I decided to put on my windcheater. It was still dark outside. I thought to open up the door for some fresh air and to observe the things around. I came out and saw the clouds all over and over them the snow-clad mountains. I shouted ‘Gagan’!

Early Morning View of Kedar Parvat whose foothill has the temple of Kedarnath from Ukhimath

Tiwari was up too and made me some tea. We sipped upon looking at massive clear mountains. Tiwari and the rain in the background broke the silence. He said ‘Go see Tungnath and you’ll not be disappointed’. Gagan was out too. He was all lost in the scene more than both of us. We got ready and by 6:15 were ready to approach Tungnath. Gagan planned to complete the trip and sacrificed his interest for a while. We came to the conclusion of why not try calling the college and let them know that you are out so if possibly the interview could be re-fixed after 3-4 days. Gagan made the call and succeeded. We were more than celebrating.

Tiwari asked the milkman to drop us at Chopta, some 20kms from this place. We 3 in the jeep discussing about the weather, temple and problems we could face if we do not plan return soon. At Chopta, we were almost alone. Among the mild rain, we prepared to trek. The time was 8:30. We started finding our way on the slippery surface amidst the vast jungle. The trek was some 3.5kms straight uphill to the temple of Lord Shiva called Tungnath, which believed to have received the arms of Shiva when He disintegrated himself. According to Mythology, Pandavas prayed to Shiva for forgiveness for having killed their kins and kiths which Shiva considered a sin not worth forgiving. In an effort to find Shiva, The Pandavas searched entire Himalaya and then at Guptkashi located Him. Shiva disintergated himself into pieces and told Pandavas to worship his these piece forms. These five pieces of Shiva forms 'Panch-Kedar' or 'KedarKhand'. Tungnath was the place that received Shiva's arms. And, we now have started the trek ...

Chopta

The place was full of vast grasslands, meadows and a serpent trail over which we were climbing up. We reached temple at 11:00, performed the ritual and started to click the pictures from various places surveying things. The weather by now was getting really bad and clouds all over the temple and we planned comeback. The temple made of huge stones was said to be some 5,000 years old, built by Pandavas and restructured by Shankracharya. The temple had all the 5 deities resting. These 5 were the forms of Shiva representing panch-kedar, in between was – Tungnath form.

Trek to Tungnath Temple

I remember while coming back Gagan and I had tea and took biscuits at a hut shop with an old lady and a kid. Gagan threw packs of biscuits at the crows who gathered all around him. It was the good gesture. He looked at ease enjoying nature to the fullest and with a breath deep into his lungs... he said, This is Real.

Temple of Tungnath

And, I prayed to Bhagwan Tungnath, make us come for once more… soon!

© himanshu

for more pics visit

www.flickr.com/myth_drinker

Also check Tungnath By Luck/ Ukhimath Re-visited

P.S I have been receiving mails about what happened to Gagan's interview next. Here is the answer... Gagan right after the trip appeared for the interview, got through it and now pursuing his MBA and currently undergoing Summer Training with a textile firm in Indonesia.