The Roopkund Story – Silence, Observance & Perserverance

It was one of those lazy afternoons of May (2009) when I found myself struggling for breath. I occasionally after lunch, try to read some blog. Inside office the AC worked fine, but it was my mind which was dwelling.

Roopkund (shot from Bhagubasa)

I was reading the ‘Almora Boy Pensive’ however not for the first time, I generally do it to browse through pics the blog has. Wonderful! I said when I reached the few last pages of Pindari trip that the Almora Boy mentioned (http://almoraboy.blogspot.com/). Snow all over; it looked so beautiful even to think. And I begin to plan.

Road from Lohajung to Wan

Then just same day after returning from office, I tried to think hard what job and roles might have made me happier. The one, which they show on Discovery or NatGeo with a complicated mix of fun and adventure stuffed together to create excitement. And I said to myself, can I be there? And, I started to search for my Outlook Guide on Uttarakhand. Other morning I started devising plans sampling websites, blogs, looking for ‘rock and a hard place’. Saurabh helped in zeroing and final selection. And we decided it has to be ‘Roopkund’.

The itinerary was soon made but for preparations we had no time. And we – three of us - me, Saurabh & Sanjeev left for the ‘hard place’ with 'rock in our mind'. Sanjeev and I left from my house and Saurabh met us at ISBT, Delhi. Soon we boarded the bus to Rishikesh around 9 p.m. Our hopes to reach Rishikesh by 4 a.m shattered when we found bus driver was not very much keen to drive and frequent the ‘brakes’.

Sauarabh (L) & Sanjeev (R) Gearing Up for Trek

We reached finally around 5:30 a.m and started to walk towards Tehri bus stand.

My eyes were desperately searching for the bus with the fine chalk print neatly written on windshield ‘Lohajung’. But it was not there. Next we looked for the word ‘Karanprayag’. The bus to Karanprayag was full and next bus would go around 8 a.m. And we started to look for shared jeep, cursing the Roadways bus driver who was to be blamed reasonably. 7 a.m and we were still looking. We took auto and went to Dehradun Chowk which had the sort of jeep stand. We paid Rs. 10 each with arguments with the auto driver for some 2kms.

A House At Wan

Atlast we got one taxi that would go but after he has ample passengers to carry, so we wasted time sipping on tea and gossiping. Around 8 we started for Karanprayag finally. Around 2 pm we reached there, and immediately boarded the bus going to Tharali. Then, a jeep that took us some 15 kms from there and we changed bus again for Deval. On reaching Deval, I started to look for the bus.

Sanjeev Enjoying with kids at Wan

One with the board we were looking for – ‘Lohajung’ with fine chalk print on its windshield. It was 4 pm and the bus started for Lohajung. By 6 pm we were there, at GMVN, asking for accommodation and for our guide ‘Mohan Bisht’.

Saurabh @ Forest Rest House, Lohajung

We got the message that our guide could not come and we need to take the equipments on rent and meet him at Bedni Bugyal. We were upset quite much now and tired too. And we decided to look out for a place to rest. We were given the Forest Rest House at Lohajung which was next to GMVN and was not finished yet. The caretaker didn’t give anything but a kerosene lamp in the name of accommodation and charged us Rs. 100. And we came back looking for sleeping bags, tent and mattress at Pujari Hardware Store. Then approached us a lean, tall man who was a guide too. He said he has a group for Roopkund and that we could follow him. He also offered a porter to us whom we found ‘high on attitude’, and ‘low on enthusiasm’ to take us. After deciding on the arrangements, we went to eat and came back around 8:30 pm to our hut, rolled out our sleeping bags and went to sleep.

Scene at Wan

Next morning, we were up by 5:30 all set to go but our guide cum porter came at 7. This angered us. Then he started to behave in an awful manner and got choosey about what he’ll lift and what he won’t despite we agreed to lift out own things. It agitated us and we kicked him out. We took our stuff on our shoulders and began to walk towards ‘Wan’ along the road. It was a bright sunny day. We could already feel the coolness in the breeze and tips of the mountains looked more than green, more closer than they appear. We were quite much enjoying without focusing on what is next?

Kunwar Singh Bisht (L)

Sanjeev was leading, it was strange see him sitting and chating with a villager, and that’s when he said to me ‘someone asking for us’, here after we had walked some 6kms? As I came forward, I was told by the stranger that he has been sent by Mohan, to take us to Bedni Bugyal where he will be waiting for us. We at once rejected him and made him realize the damage caused to us by Mohan. This guy in his mid thirties, looked sober and simple, typical villager, smoking beedi and with his horse on his left, grazing upon whatever stuff it could eat in haste. The guy’s name was Kunwar Singh Bisht and he was Mohan’s Uncle, though looked almost of Mohan’s age, i realised when we met Mohan in Bedni Bugyal.

Valley View of Wan

With small interaction, soon we included him in our pool, decided to have him as our porter-cum-guide and on condition that we pay him Rs. 1200 for this trip including his food who he only will cook. We had everything with us now. But best part was we three were off the load and the tension now. We had ‘Ramu’ the horse carrying our stuff from Kuling onwards now. And we took out the cameras that we were in bags. We reached Wan around 12 pm, we were fast.

We ate our meal here and waited for the showers to stop. At 1 we resumed our quest to reach out for grand Trishul views that I had seen in many pics at flickr.com back in Delhi. Roopkund started to fascinate more and more as we get closer. Bedni Bugyal is some 18kms from Wan village which is land’s end and locked from 3 sides, while Bedni was big grass meadows (alpine meadows) stretched on acres of land (hence called bugyal).

Trishul

We saw the first view of Nanda Ghunti as we started to climb the last ridge and appear out of jungle on a big patch of grass. The sun was settling down fast, and clock showed 6 pm. We hurried to search for a place to camp among the quite few visible. We were too tired for dinner and soon dozed off and after lights went dim from all sides – we started to talk. This was Sanjeev’s and Saurabh’s first time experience in tent. The wind was blowing hard and last I remember was it started to downpour. We were not sleeping, just resting. Saurabh was scared just when Sanjeev said – "looks like wind might blow our tent". To both suddenly Delhi started to look better. After few hours, the sun streamed in and morning was a different day and different story – Delhi again became vulgar and criminal.

Our Campsite

We observed that during our this tour we had less time to talk about self and our attached issues but has much more to observe and walk. I remember Saurabh commenting, “On hills, we actually are constantly fighting with our mind”. The context came from our tiredness and hunger that was proving obstacle in our physical ability to meet our limits. But later we analyzed that we did nothing but the walking and our abilities have actually improved. And now we think of its perseverance, as we mentally prepared ourselves for the next day to Roopkund.

Sanjeev lazily remarked, “I think I would stay back”! I looked at him to confirm from him again. He was not in the mood to walk and therefore we started to walk towards the path to Kali Dak. Kunwar Singh is now leading us. We walked slowly with D80 to capture the best moments of our lives. And after walking for some one and half hour we reached Kali Dak standing upfront before us. It was cloudy and sun was playing hide and seek, though hiding mostly.

View At Bedni Bugyal

We sat to click few pics and then stated to move again towards Kalu Vinayak pointed as a spot by Kunwar using his finger. Tough walk on steep slope and narrow sideways didn’t bother us. It was the food that we didn’t had. We just brought some ‘gud ki sev’ and ‘namkeen’. Though we had eaten ‘kichri’ before starting in the morning.

We reached Kalu Vinayak soon and offered our prayers to lord Ganesha. It was refreshing. I could feel the wind blowing onto my face. Chill it was, but chilling was the view of snow filled valley on the other side. It was all white, the mighty mountains all over.

Nandaghunti Visible in the Back (moving from Bedni to Kali Dak)

And we resumed towards Bhagubasa. From here we just walk along the path in the shadow of mountain. Along the way, we saw three young boys with their guide who had plans to stay at Bhagubasa. To my mind, it was rather not a good idea with temperature subzero and wind blowing us apart. I was feeling sorry for not bringing my other jacket and I already have lost one of my gloves, getting busy with photography. After walking some 2kms more I realized it makes no sense to continue.

Kali Dak Shining High

It could start raining anytime. And I after given it thought again, stopped to sit and see the scenery around.

Kalu Vinayak

The purpose was to not to miss the beauty in walking and reaching nowhere because I knew we would never be able to make it to Roopkund. The reason is not the distance. Infact it is not even 2 km for here. The reason rather is big snow patches that we might not be able to cross. But Saurabh was adamant to go. He continued like a Private in war who is told to march forward, come hell or fire. He crossed one with less effort but then another patch was too big for him and I shouted “Come back”!

It was 2:30 p.m, clouds all over, quite chilling when we trio stopped to take one last view of Roopkund as pointed by Kunwar Bisht. In another 10 minutes, it started to snow and we resumed our journey back towards Bedni, quite satisfied with what we saw.

Scene At Kalu Vinayak

We didn’t stopped anywhere in between until we reached Kalu Vinayak with snow flakes still floating in the air. One last view, a heavy breath and with folded hands to bid goodbye to Ganesha, we started again to comeback to reach Bedni Bugyal by dawn.

Some Views from Bhagubasa

Roopkund (down under gorge)

At Bhagubasa (we met 3 trekkers) Last Shot from Bhagubasa

Valley View from Kalu Vinayak

It was sun shining high at Patal Nachunia, near Kali Dak. We took the short cut following Bisht. Here we took out whatever we had to eat and basked ourselves in the sun though it was not pleasant.

Coming Back to Bedni

The wind was still piercing us. It was around 6 pm when we returned back to Bedni. With us came the dark clouds chasing us, and soon after it started to rain. We quickly went into our 2 men tent that has 3 of us inside in our sleeping bags. Kunwar made us some tea which we sipped delightfully but I had almost lost all my appetite by now. All night it rained, it kept us up though with eyes closed. This is when I tried to recall the scenes that have left impression on my mind. Kali Dak, Kalu Vinayak, the Clouds, the Wind, the Mountains and the Snow, they all are beautiful.

Fog came all along with us to Bedni

But why this ‘night’, and we ‘three’ started to wish for this night to end without speaking to each other. The next morning was bright, sun warming us up but wind continued to blow. We started early around 7 to reach Lohajung. We chose the Ali Bugyal route to come back (not from Wan). Ali Bugyal reminded me of Rudranath trek, vast grasslands, herds and flocks of goat and sheep, open valley view, and complete silence. If you have been there, you would have known how the sweet breeze soothes the brain, leaving you with no thoughts.

My eyes absorbed all that it could do – the parrot green colour of the grass without patches and in perfect symmetry, the path that looked craved out with a chisel, and all I could think of is that

it takes a price to be here surrounded by these mountains and land.

Beautiful Ali Bugyal

We came down crossing the long Ali ridge stretched over some 9-10kms and found ourselves into a thick jungle that is referred to as Tolpani. Coming down was hard and tough. The body was aching, it was slippery all over due to dry leaves and moist soil, and Saurabh slipped again for 3rd time. We again crossed Neel Ganga. It would have been good to rest along the shores. But unfortunately, the rain started soonafter we got to Tolpani. We hurried our way to climb up again towards Kuling, which required some 6kms to be covered.

Last Slope At Ali that we crossed before decending into jungle of Tolpani

Rain was at its best, clouds all over, not willing to let us go. When rain slows down we start to walk with our sheets of plastic covering our body. We touched Kuling at around 2p.m. The scene was different by now. From Ali’s pleasant weather to cloudy and windy, we took it as it came. At Kuling we sipped tea, call our homes and stared again to hit Lohajung. It was almost near so we had nothing to worry except the place to stay and pity for other people who had plans to do Roopkund today. I remember it was snowing at Bhagubasa, forcing us to come back to Bedni.

It was 3 p.m and rain stopped but wind still blowing hard but we three were carefree. We were glad that we are almost near to Lohajung. We finally reached the place around 5 p.m in our perfect leisure. We went straightaway to Pujari Hardware to return his tents and sleeping bags. The old man himself checked up each and every thing that he had rented and after some 25 minutes of examination, he gave us our cautious money back. This time he was polite in behaviour.

Towards Tolpani

We checked in Garhwal Mandal Rest House, and hit the beds in the dormitory. The caretaker was good man from Wan; he gave us the room that has 5 beds for Rs. 100 each. And it started to rain again with voices in the sky. Sanjeev and Suarbah went out in rain around 6:30 or so to get some hot paranthas and tea. We enjoyed till the last piece of it, though our taste buds were not allowing us to say wow! We again got into our beds and started to browse pics in our 3 cameras. Sanjeev missed out the adventure and beauty since he didn’t go to Roopkund (or Bhagubasa), stayed at Bedni. We dozed off before 10 p.m.

A Distance Board At Lohajung

Somebody knocked our window, I got up. The voice said bus leaves at 4A.M. By now Saurabh and Sanjeev were up too. We washed up and packed our stuff. At the sound of the bus horn, we came out and settled in the bus to Rishikesh.

It was one of those wonderful experiences and trips that I have savored and cherished except the nights that are sleepless, and reminds you of home sweet home. And I thought, looking out of the bus window at the river Pindar flowing with us, my footprints of this journey will last for ever, even when I am not around.

Itinerary we followed:

Day 1: Left Delhi at 9 PM for Rishikesh, reached around 5:30-6 A.M (Some 250 kms).

Day 2: From Rishikesh at 8 A.M around took Jeep to Karanprayag, reached at 2 P.M (some 180 kms), boarded bus to Tharali (another 35 kms), jeep to Deval (some 12kms), Deval to Lohajung (50-60kms) reached around 6 P.M.

Day 3: Started from Lohajung (forest rest house) to Wan (some 12kms) via Kuling (centre between both), Jeep road but really a mess; contrary a pleasant walk, Had lunch at 1 P.M at Wan, which is last village enroute. Reached Bedni Bugyal by 6 P.M covering some 28 kms. Pitched our tents.

Day 4: Had breakfast at 7 A.M, started towards Roopkund. Passed Kali Dak, Patal Nachna, Kalu Vinayak and Bhagubasa. (some 13kms one-side). Came back to Bedni Bugyal.

Day 5: Started around 7 A.M towards Ali Bugyal, Tolpani, Crossed Neel Ganga and reached Kuling at around 3 P.M (it started to rain after we cross the Neel Ganga barrage). Reached Lohajung around 5 P.M.

Day 6: At 4 A.M took bus to Rishikesh. Reached by 4 P.M. Had Poori-Choley at Geeta Bhawan followed by sweetmeat at Ram Jhoola, took bus to Delhi around 10 P.M. Reached early morning.

© Himanshu
For pics please see www.flickr.com/myth_drinker

Road To Rudranath Part 1/ Gopeshwar, Uttarakhand

Just when I was busy deciding the itinerary for the upcoming trek to Binsar, near Thailisain in Garhwal, I received call from Gagan. He asked “where we’d go this time?”

I remember of having told him multi times about the Binsar plan including the last Sunday when I visited him and yet he asked. His vocal seemed to me low on enthusiasm and bitter as compared to my excited travel mood. How enthusiastically, I have been waiting for this Independence Day weekend to come and the chap now is asking 3 days before – where?

Sagar, this is where the trek starts from

I again narrated the set of the story to him and the itinerary that I was in the process of designing when in the middle he asked “Would that be really good? I mean like the Tungnath trip?” And, I begin to wonder what has triggered this comparison. Soon I understood there is no point exciting him with what Binsar might offer us. I gave up without resistance as he started to mention the Tungnath scenes which I thought useless to compare with Binsar. It is because the only commonality between them was that – both were the temple and form of Shiva, the deity.

And I suggested “let’s go to Rudranath”! This existed as an alternative option in my plan. I have been browsing a lot about this on the internet, and even consulted Manu, my friend, as well for his views on this trek. Since we had less time in hand I was less keen on doing the Rudranath trek and then I knew it’s a tough trek too.

We, the trekkers! (Five)

But, I asked Gagan to see some pics of Rudranath on flickr.com which he promptly did the same time. He exclaimed with a certain tone and enthusiasm “kya scene hai… mast hai yaar” and I knew that I will have to design a new travel plan now. Next day, I chatted with Manu on gmail, requesting him to prepare me a travel plan while I too was looking for the information on Net to plan the itinerary. He readily agreed and by next day mailed me the desired info.

Then just one day before at 7 in the evening, right when we had to leave for the trip on August 13 night, Gagan called up and said to postpone the trip to 14th night, since he needed a day to prepare and submit his MBA assignments.
Depriving me of this trip was unthinkable as I had prepared and planned it for quite much a time. Almost a quarter of people in my office know that I had planned a trip and which I would describe to them with sheer thrill. However, all this time, I forget to apply for leave and now I feared the tension about the grant of leave.

Villagers... moved really fast. Next day was Rakhi and Poornima...so these people want to offer tribute to Bhagwan Rudranath ! Though we wanted the same as well...

It was Bimla Madam whom I approached with my request for leave for two days with complete plans. I fear what if I might be asked to be present here for any meeting.. Bimla madam suggested writing a mail to Sir which I did after a small thought on what I should tell sir (that I want 2 leave for trekking and how he would have reacted. God, I was in big dilemma).

Parallel to this, there was this other group who was interested in coming along – Sanjeev and Mohit. Both were known to me for some 3 years almost. While Mohit had a limited interaction with me, Sanjeev would often call and tease me – where we would go, with a touch of emotional element. Sometimes duo would speak to me with weirdly excitement and I would smile within me thinking – how ignorant they were about my plans for trek!

While my conversations with Sanjeev and Mohit grew more regular regarding the trip, I found them pulling my legs more often when I would say would you guys be able to walk a lot since we were required to cover 22kms bare foot uphill climb. They would giggle and convey me their excitement with boast about their strengths that they thought I was underrating. And, I said to myself, how much ignorant these two fellows are?

I was clicking enroute, covered some 5-6kms so far

It was 11 pm August 12th night, Gagan came to my place. I suggested him to come over so that we two could sit together and prepare his assignments which we could only start at 1:00 a.m. around. I finished one by 2:40 a.m and went to sleep. Gagan slept too. In the morning at 5:00 around, I saw Gagan already up. Soon he prepared himself, we sipped our tea, and he was off to his college with promise to reach at ISBT Kashmere Gate by 10:30 p.m. Soon I started to load my bagpack.

I reached office and just when about to resume work, Sanjeev called up and in low tone spoke to me about his issue. It was about a life insurance policy that he was required to sell. Unless he would give some business today to his firm he was employed with, he can not dare go. He was given a dose from his boss who happened to be a strict lady this morning. To endorse his seriousness, he called up twice and then thrice and many times then till he took my words that I would help him to get a policy from my source when we comeback.

I wondered how much dependent people are on people. I wanted him to come along for the trip and he needed me to save his job. So we were interdependent instead of independent as I thought about it right when e-mailing my heartiest wishes to my seniors and colleagues at the office for upcoming Independence Day.

15th August @ Gopeshwar School students marching with pride shouting sologans 'Hamara Bharat Mahan'... Yes it is... Why though is not clear...

I reached Kashmere Gate at 09:50 p.m waiting for Sanjeev and Mohit who gave me their words to reach on-time. But they did not come by the said time and neither called up to give reason. Same happened with Gagan. Clock crossed 10:30 but he never bothered to call me. So first I called up Sanjeev, and he said in 10 minutes he would be there. Next Gagan did not picked up at all. After 15 minutes at 10:45, Sanjeev called up and asked for 2 more minutes. I was feeling very agitated. Sanjeev and Mohit arrived after some 12 minutes at 11:00 p.m. I gave a good lecture to both of them which I know would hardly have any impact on them but I delivered right there.

Next I called up Gagan. This time he picked up and said in 10 minutes he would reach citing that he has taken an auto and now awaiting his friend to come at Ashram Chowk, which I reacted with harsh words. I was infact determined to leave without him but somehow he got me believe in his words.

Walk through the dense forest amidst the mist ...and weather signaled RAIN!

And, next I called him up again at 11:30 to which he said “its raining here, I am struck up in traffic”! Another call I made at 12:15 wondering how much careless someone could be for not understanding somebody else’s feelings especially when this somebody is a long time friend. I was feeling irritated and could have left him to his fate but instead I continued giving lecture to Sanjeev and Mohit for their untimely time management. Gagan never bothered to call back to tell about himself. The one good excuse he would give every time I called was about the load of his assignments. Finally he reached with his friend named Sanjeev, a short heighted slim chap not looking very cheerful. After Gagan apologized then only I returned back to my normal taste. Now we had two ‘Sanjeev’ – 1 & 2.

We boarded the U.P Roadways bus at 1:00 am for Rishikesh which was some semi-full. In the bus I introduced them to each other and soon we went into trance called sleep though awake individually.

Bisht Family, we met at Lyuti Bugyal, after walking some 11 kms. The time was 3:20 pm.

We reached Rishikesh at 7 a.m on 14th morning. Next we walked up towards the Tehri bus stand of Rishikesh to get our bus to Gopeshwar with our bag packs. I again resumed my lecture and aggression for having started late from Delhi and having missed the 4 a.m Uttarakhand Roadways bus to Gopeshwar. The group listened and ignored and chose to sit down for breakfast.

Me and Gagan took bananas – 3 each, while rest of the team had Choley Bhatoore and Paranthas. I was continuously pushing them to rush up the things to reach our destination on time. But who cares!

Our time management was poor. So often we had clash. I try to drive them fast while they maintained their own pace. The problem with me was that I wanted us to reach as soon as we could, while my fellows did not seemed interested in the itinerary planned and had laggard approach. It was the clash of seriousness with non serious and leisure type attitude which I and my fellows - both did not like.

Sanjeev-1 pretty much at comfort at Bisht's until i said we wont stay here and have to move to Panar. He was depressed walking for so long hours since 7:20 am.

At 9:00 am we boarded G.M.O.U bus to Gopeshwar which started at 9:30. Like most of the drivers, he also displayed the state of no emotions and smoked. We passed Devprayag where we had kadi, choley and chawal; Srinagar, where me and Sanjeev-2 got down for SBI ATM Service; Rudraprayag, where we tasted some sweetmeat and; Nandprayag where the bus conductor informed us to board another bus already waiting, for rest of the journey. The swapping was done due to less onboard passengers. But soon others poured in.

Panar, finally!

The distance between Rudraprayag and Nandprayag was some 40kms that covered Gauchar enroute; moving along the river Alaknanda from Srinagar though I missed out most of the sight seeing in between as I fall prey to the lord of the sleep. I woke up as the bumber of the bus jerked and i feared about my camera which was just above it little above over the rear tyres of the bus and saw the watch. It was for 25 minutes that i had slept total but that was effective. We guys haven't had slept for last night whole and this day whole.

God, we look like zombies... No, the smiling zombies! At 5 pm we reached our destination Gopeshwar. We got out of the bus and i lead them to GMVN for accomodation. We took the dormitory @ 80/- per chap. The best part was the room that had only 5 beds which perfectly fit our group size and allowed no scope for for more people. Almost all of us damn tired but showed no weakness or ailing sign. We refreshed ourselves and went down to the market which starts where the GMVN's stairs end, hunting for GOOD food. we have been surviving on biscuits and namkeens and on a shared i-pod!

Back to back... starting our trek from Sagar :) at 7:20 am

It felt great. Mohit brought the bottle of Old Monk out of the bag and some of us said Cheers!

See Part 2 / Road to Rudranath for the next half of this 'wet, on-the-run story'....

Tungnath By Chance/ Ukhimath, Garhwal

If I could escape my dull and hectic life of Delhi for forever, Ukhimath could be the place where I would want to be settled down for my new abode.

I visited Ukhimath first time in July (2006) end, and before I could do more fact-finding we had our bagpacks ready. Me and Gagan. It was a chance talk that I had with Gagan a day before wherein I mentioned to him the place and talked about a vacation together. Gagan, not sure at the time, gave his unsure ‘Yes’ with a ‘But’! I knew Gagan since my graduation days. He has always been around since then. Half textile engineer and more than full - a fabric expert - had just resigned and this was the opportunity I was trying to get upon. A puzzled Gagan called up in the afternoon to inform me the unexpected. And we were ready. Like all the times, he came late at ISBT, Delhi, than planned at 9:35 p.m. I was awaiting him for last 2 hours. Finally, he came and I gave him what I was holding back inside me.

We immediately took the bus to Rishikesh. I had ensured the eatables for us and after we chatted for some 2-3 hours about things in our lives, we stretched flat at the back seats of half empty bus. We reached Rishikesh at 4:40 am after covering some 240km of distance. It was pouring slowly. I asked one of the auto drivers for a drop at Tehri bus stand which was 2kms, but since he demanded a Rs. 10 flat for each, I refused to be cheated away and we started walking fast to reach the venue. Gagan cursed me for that!

Confluence of Alaknanda & Mandakini At Rudraprayag

At Tehri bus stand of Rishikesh, we took tea and an hour break. It was at 6:30 our bus will leave for Rudraprayag which was some 120 kms from here. We took the side seat for two, Gagan at the window side. Bus started and we smiled to each other for the trip to Hills has started.

At near around 9:20 we reached Devprayag which was enroute. I had tea again while Gagan preferred taking a look around. We discussed further about his first experience with hills. We moved again and by 11:50 reached Rudraprayag. Gagan was tired and so was me. So we made a halt in a dingy cheap room for (Rs. 200 which was Rs. 50 more a price to pay) but with all windows open it was a well lit and nice ventilated room. We changed and went out to eat.

Devprayag, Confluence of Alaknanda & Bhagirathi that forms Ganga

We spent our time by Alaknanda’s side in warm sum and glacier water in which we put our feet and then yell ‘Chill hai yaar’! We were more than happy. No family, no work, nothing to feel and nothing to share, just the plain sound of flowing Alaknanda and our offbeat communication to content ourselves.

Next I realized when we got back to our room, that I forgot the memory card for my digital camera, at home only. So we spent the evening searching for the card at every nook and corner helplessly but no success. We retired at our bed soon at 8:00 pm. Next day we got ready at 8 and planned to go back to Srinagar which was enroute some 30 kms back from the place we were at. Going back was the chance we were about to take because we were not certain whether we will get the Card there or not? Anyway, we reached Srinagar – bigger and better city life than Rudraprayag. While I waited for the shop to open, Gagan opted for a close shave. Luck was with us, though we got the card for a higher a price at Rs. 1300. We stuffed our stomach and prepared to resume our journey. We reached Rudraprayag again, got down and started locating for bus that goes to Ukhimath.

Rudraprayag, Mandakini Side (on right) while Alaknanda comes from Left

We reached Ukhimath at 2:00 pm after travelling for some 60-70 kms. The route was rough and bad patches on road appeared all over. The route was all along the river Mandakini through Tilwara and Chiliyasaur and finally the Ghat from where one road goes to Guptakashi and other goes to Ukhimath.

Initially the program was to go to Madhyamaheshwar so we were told that the same bus that leaves at 4p.m from Ukhimath market shall drop us at Uniyana some 18-20 kms further. We had the time at hand. Some 2 hours. We had ‘Dal Chawal’ which Gagan never liked, and for me it was as usual ok. After it was around 4:00 pm we enquired about the bus and got the unexpected reply. The bus actually developed some snag as we were told and would not go today further.

Ukhimath Bus Stand (and the market)

So we returned down the market to GMVN our first choice to stay. Chamola Ji, the care taker and Rawat Ji, the cook, we met there who offered the room but tariff was quite high at Rs. 600 for room. So we planned to move after a cup of tea to search for another night halt place. We got accommodation at Anushree lodge (owned by Tiwari Ji) for Rs. 200 which was quite a clean new room with new bedding. Later, that evening we went for the outing, met some children from some village nearby, clicked pics and had good time. Gagan looked over- joyous. We returned back at 7:20 to have our dinner at GMVN and from there retuned back to our room which was some 1 km far. Soft downpour was continuously signaling of bad weather to start anytime now.

The room had no light despite the connection. Some fault was being located. As we lay down I discussed with Gagan about option of visiting Madhyamaheshwar and we were ready to get up at 5:00 and leave. It was 9:10 when somebody knocked the door. It was Tiwari’s nephew asking us to join for dinner. We politely rejected. He went back smiling only to come back with Tiwari himself. Tiwari Ji, in some early 40s, looked quite strong and commanding. And politely he said; join us over for some hot milk, which I and Gagan were happy to hear about. While sipping upon the thick milk, he suggested us to visit Tungnath.

Guptakashi, as seen from Ukhimath (in the evening)

I remember of having seen the picture of Tungnath at the Survey of India map on Garhwal Hills. I was carrying the map too. Tiwari Ji was of the opinion that for Madhyamaheshwar you might not manage to get any vehicle and said moreover it would be risky trekking due to continuous downpour. Though, I completely agreed with him, I still wanted to go to Madhyamaheshwar. At the same time, I was interested in Tungnath too. Choices were always the problems for me. When we entered back our room, Gagan talked to his family and came to know about his interview schedule right after the 2 days. He wanted to do an MBA and I remember clearly having told by him about this dream as a major life goal. We observed silence. He suddenly said ‘I’ll be going back for this interview’ though he didn’t wanted to miss the trip and things to happen this way. It was a bad night after a full bright day. And the thunderstorm started.

It rained all night. I woke up at 5:10 out of the shiver I guess. I decided to put on my windcheater. It was still dark outside. I thought to open up the door for some fresh air and to observe the things around. I came out and saw the clouds all over and over them the snow-clad mountains. I shouted ‘Gagan’!

Early Morning View of Kedar Parvat whose foothill has the temple of Kedarnath from Ukhimath

Tiwari was up too and made me some tea. We sipped upon looking at massive clear mountains. Tiwari and the rain in the background broke the silence. He said ‘Go see Tungnath and you’ll not be disappointed’. Gagan was out too. He was all lost in the scene more than both of us. We got ready and by 6:15 were ready to approach Tungnath. Gagan planned to complete the trip and sacrificed his interest for a while. We came to the conclusion of why not try calling the college and let them know that you are out so if possibly the interview could be re-fixed after 3-4 days. Gagan made the call and succeeded. We were more than celebrating.

Tiwari asked the milkman to drop us at Chopta, some 20kms from this place. We 3 in the jeep discussing about the weather, temple and problems we could face if we do not plan return soon. At Chopta, we were almost alone. Among the mild rain, we prepared to trek. The time was 8:30. We started finding our way on the slippery surface amidst the vast jungle. The trek was some 3.5kms straight uphill to the temple of Lord Shiva called Tungnath, which believed to have received the arms of Shiva when He disintegrated himself. According to Mythology, Pandavas prayed to Shiva for forgiveness for having killed their kins and kiths which Shiva considered a sin not worth forgiving. In an effort to find Shiva, The Pandavas searched entire Himalaya and then at Guptkashi located Him. Shiva disintergated himself into pieces and told Pandavas to worship his these piece forms. These five pieces of Shiva forms 'Panch-Kedar' or 'KedarKhand'. Tungnath was the place that received Shiva's arms. And, we now have started the trek ...

Chopta

The place was full of vast grasslands, meadows and a serpent trail over which we were climbing up. We reached temple at 11:00, performed the ritual and started to click the pictures from various places surveying things. The weather by now was getting really bad and clouds all over the temple and we planned comeback. The temple made of huge stones was said to be some 5,000 years old, built by Pandavas and restructured by Shankracharya. The temple had all the 5 deities resting. These 5 were the forms of Shiva representing panch-kedar, in between was – Tungnath form.

Trek to Tungnath Temple

I remember while coming back Gagan and I had tea and took biscuits at a hut shop with an old lady and a kid. Gagan threw packs of biscuits at the crows who gathered all around him. It was the good gesture. He looked at ease enjoying nature to the fullest and with a breath deep into his lungs... he said, This is Real.

Temple of Tungnath

And, I prayed to Bhagwan Tungnath, make us come for once more… soon!

© himanshu

for more pics visit

www.flickr.com/myth_drinker

Also check Tungnath By Luck/ Ukhimath Re-visited

P.S I have been receiving mails about what happened to Gagan's interview next. Here is the answer... Gagan right after the trip appeared for the interview, got through it and now pursuing his MBA and currently undergoing Summer Training with a textile firm in Indonesia.