In My Hometown / Deeba, the deity of Garhwal

Rejoicing the peaceful walk of Maanila Devi; me and Arun maintained the pace of walking. It was quite a morning, fresh and misty, with mild wind blowing through the pines and enough for my senses to demand more. Arun suggested that we should go to Sarainkhet, while I had Deeba temple in the mind. And in my mind I started to fight this feeling - how do we cover both? Extending leave for an extra day might upset the boss.

Shot in Jayaraj (after Kanpathia)

And I prepared myself mentally to take this challenge. If required, I'll not hesistate to resign - I said to myself in feeble voice but with stone over heart.

We reached Dotiyal - the place we started our journey from. Biting over the Samosa and piping hot tea in my hand, the pace of struggle ended, with decision - to do both - come whatever may come. We packed a full bread and 4 Samosa to start out journey. I was quite much in mood to walk. Arun knew the place well. He has been here before, thrice.

We started to walk towards Kanpathia, a place that offers spectacular views of Himalayan ranges, mostly chatting up and listening to the songs stored on Arun's mobile, the next 5 kms. The pleasure was worth upsetting boss or losing the job even. And the weird smile appeared on my face. Kanpathia is another place after Ukhimath, where I would love to settle down for rest of my life.

A bend enroute Kanpathiya

It has Himalayan face, wide open valley, very few people visible and a mobile tower too. All that I want. We sipped our second tea here, Arun chatting up with locales and me looking around, thinking, clicking, wondering...

We resumed walking. Next destination is Jayaraj some 2 kms from Kanpathia.

The Old man who discussed Politics & Concerns

Here a known of Arun is building a resort - for don't know what! The sun was up and full by this time. I saw villagers drying the fresh pale-yellow chillies over their rooftops... a sight spicy enough to be clicked by the camera. Another cup of tea and critical reviews about Uttarakhand goverment started to come out. I presume it was due to my image that resembled a news correspondent with my camera hanging from my neck right over my chest.

Towards Sarainkhet

The questions from two elders mostly circled around the damage in the region due to cloudbursts and the record-breaking rains that the State had received this monsoon. Giant cracks on the roads, massive land-slides and century old houses that turned to dust - their watching the rains wash away - almost everything. Sentiments sometimes turn voilent and one of the old men started to put blame on us for not reporting it to news channels, or atleast not reporting about everything that has happened in the region.

Oldman working (Sarainkhet)

I could not clarify about who we are and what we were not. We paid for our tea and marched ahead. After walking some 2 more kilometers, we were not sure what else to talk about - natural calamities and the damage it did. All I knew that Centre has accepted to give Rs. 500 Cr. relief package to Pokhriyal-led government.

Sarainkhet

Horn blew - and a voice came from behind, and we boarded the bus to Sarinkhet which is some 18-20 kms. The path was beautiful, it moved on a snail trail through the forest road. Later the valley widened and colourful cholai fields were in the sight. I smelled the air deep and said atlast Sarainkhet. We didn't spend much time in Sarainkhet. It is the last village of Almora's Salt district in Kumaon region - a small place with 3-side closed view.

Uffrainkahl (kashmiri uncle in the pic)

And we decided to move on to next destination of the bus called Uffrainkhal. Uffrainkhal is the place from where Garhwal starts after Sarainkhet - the Kumaon border. It is even smaller than Sarainkhet with handful of houses and a temple. The bus will stop here for the day. It is around 4 p.m and before sun sets we planned to do our survey of the place. We walked from here towards the road that leads to Baijro, which is some 30 kms from Uffarainkahl.

But the bus service has been stopped due to badly worn out roads. And suddenly appeared the sad face of the old man we met in Jayaraj earlier. I said to myself - How much right he was? and regretted for not understanding his sentiments well. And Arun started to play songs on his mobile again. Pointing towards a rock on our left, he said lets climb it and see the next side of it. He is right. There was a road too on the other side that goes to a place called Binsar Mahadev - an ancient Shiva temple, famous all over Garhwal.

Valley View from Uffrainkhal (road goes to Binsar)

And we started to take stroll on the road chatting up, listening to the songs, looking at the sun going down slowly and breathing the mellow breeze filled with fragrance of pines, deodar and silver birch mixed with cool mist through our lungs. It is cold here, I said to Arun, pulling up the zip of my jacket upto my neck. Walking after some 6-7kms, we decided to return back but only after a round of tea. By 7 p.m we are back to the place where we started from. Kashmiri Uncle gave us shelter and the fresh cooked food for the night.

For the first time I was amazed to find a pumpkin so tasty that I ate the platefull of it plain rice, appraising it again and again. And Arun said, "We should have brought Old Monk quarter with us to make it enjoyable". And bus driver, conductor, Kashmiri uncle - they all laughed. By now the dog's barking stopped as if giving us this hint to stop gossiping and sleep. And I came out of the Kashimiri uncle's shed to look at the stars - there were so many - and I smiled in my mind.

How happy I was? Next morning, we stated early and begin to walk along the road. We knew that the bus will come after sometime. It was colder but walking made it pleasurable. In between we took short-cuts, and in no time we have covered some 5-6 kms. And then came the bus. We got down at Dotiyal. I wanted to walk down from Kanpathiya to Dotiyal road. Walking somehow kept me going and enjoying clearing my head.

Uffrainkhal (early morning)

Another round of tea at Dotiyal and we boarded the bus to Marchula. The plan is to visit Diva temple, in Divakhal. And we both decided to take bath in the cold water of Ramganga under the bright noon sun. The white water flowing looked like cystal pieces on the blue waves of sea. It can not be explained.

Marchula

Wiping my body I asked Arun, when do we reach Dhumakot?

He said, we must hurry up to catch the 2 p.m bus and then we reach there by 6 p.m.

Dhumakot is completely a estranged place or it seemed to me. It is getting dark by now but Arun had known the place quite well. We got the small dingy room for 200 bucks. We ate and retired to sleep early after a biref walk just to survey the place a bit. Next day early morning, at 5:30 we boarded our bus to reach Divakhal. We reached there in no time, just 15kms from Dhumakot, the place is - love at first sight - for me.

Jadaukhand

By 6 A.M we started walking towards the temple. Though I was fearing that we should let the sun come out first to make it safe for duo. I have heard from my dad many times that the jungle area is Bear-infested. The old lady, from the priest's family on the road-head confirmed the same when she said "Don't go now, let the sun be out and have some others to come with you to the temple, it's unsafe due to the high possibility of the bears in the jungle".

Dhumakot

Arun rejected the voice of the old lady and said "we are going to the temple, and our faith will protect us, so have no fear and come along". And I was wondering whom should I believe. So we started to walk. Not even a single ray is out and we two in this jungle, is it safe? I asked Arun. He took out mobile out of his pocket and started to play songs, and said now no animal will come near to us. I again wondered - to compliement him or to lable his as sheer stupid.

I said nothing, just maintained the pace alongwith him.

Divakhal

The sun soon started to appear. And I was relaxed. The path lead us through the dense forest, a small trail with wild grass and rough hard stones over it. Infact the whole region was such - full of wilderness. I was happy to be there - a silence I never observed before, a deserted place that was far away from the maddening crowd and, a life i have never lived before - pure spiritual bliss just like a sage in my soul.

We reached Diva temple around 8:30 A.M after walking some 3.5-4kms though slowly but nevertheless with any stop. My amusement doubled as soon as we reach the temple. It was magnificient. It offered 360 degree view, with Himalaya facing North or the face of temple. Spectacular views, grand highlands and majestic Himalaya in the sight - it is like best of both worlds. I thanked God, and offered our homage to the deity - Diva, by lighting the incense stick and through praying.

Diva temple

Today, my wish to be here is fulfilled, I said to myself. This is something which I have wanted to for a long time. We sat there at the temple for sometime without uttering any word, and it is there suddenly i memorised the song by Narendra Negi that has lines... Diva jani j0t, Diva jasi jot. The reference was in different context but something worth remembering and something that reminds you that your culture existed long before you came into this world.

With tear in my eyes, I felt like being one with The Supreme - though not a new feeling but not the same too - and I relalised how much I have missed my hometown, all these years.

Itinerary:

Delhi-Ramnagar-Dhumakot Distance: (320 km approx; 9 hrs in Roadways Bus; fare Rs. 180 till Ramnagar; Rs. 65 to Dhumakot)

Dhumakot-Divakhal: 15 kms

Divakhal / Deebakhal to Diva temple: 5kms on foot trek; return same way to Delhi or go some place ahead. © Himanshu Dutt, 2010.

The Anonymous Feeling/ Narkanda, Himachal Pradesh

Manu called up in the afternoon just when I was about to enter the examination hall at the college where I was working for invigilation duty. He said, ok! Let’s leave today. Its been quite some days and I was longing for a trip which I shared with him, one of those days.

December was to enter its 3rd week and we leave tonight. Initially Manu was reluctant. He had just been back from some ‘trip’ and ‘state’. Left his job already and now when he had some hope to get an assignment, I asked him for this trip. Anyway, he seemed interested too. We reached ISBT and headed for the place from where the bus for Shimla leaves. It was a great rush at the ISBT. I had never been to Shimla before and I was not excited too. The picture i had of Shimla was of crowded hill station that has nothing to offer to somone like me.

NARKANDA (In December)

Rather I needed a quiet place to soothe my noisy ears filled with official talks in a much fabricated environment. I needed a break perhaps that is the reason for this travel. In the meanwhile we got the bus and the second seat on driver’s left. We talked for sometime, then Manu’s hands reached for his earphones and my eyes were filled with sleep soon after. At Pipli bus stopped for a while. We passed Chandigarh after crossing Ambala. And I was again off to sleep. I realized that bus was not moving. At Kalka, driver got down to warm up his old bones for a while at the sight of bonfire. It was around 4 in morning. When the public started shouting; the conductor pushed up the matter and the bus was started after small arguments. It was colder than those nights that I had spent on various trips abroad the bus. And, I was back to sleep once again. What amused me was I do not really used to ‘sleeping’ during the trips be it night or day! We reached Shimla at 6:00 around amidst the fog and wonderfull chill. Soon I got excited… excited than ever!We sipped upon tea at bus station.

Chota SHIMLA (alias Vikas Nagar)

Manu gave a choice – Should be walk down till Longwood or await the bus? Soon we were walking toward our destination. Manu had been many times to Shimla and Himachal overall! I was glad that he was with me to show the things around. I could not have imagined a better guide than despite his being a great friend though very moody by nature. There we were at the Sainik Bhawan, Longwood right at 7 am which we really covered at dead slow speed. God! It was too early to approach and that’s too without booking the rest-house. So we planned to take a walk but where possibly with our bags. And, we met Subedar Sharma Ji inside. He was gentle and polite. He enquired about us, asking our antecedents and Delhi whereabouts, and then agreed to give us room but after 10-11 am. His concern was do we have any identity that could associate us with Indian defence system. He made us tea and then we left for sight seeing around though we didn’t go too far.
There was something about the air, it smelled fresh and tasted good. I had my eyes got fixed on the view – the mighty mountains of Himalayan ranges. We chatted for sometime and returned back to Sainik resthouse. It was still not the time, SharmaJi had asked us to come at but he gave the room. The time was 8:40. Soon after we were out of our room for breakfast that he served with a cook assisting –parantha with tea.
SAINIK BHAWAN, Shimla
We filled up and retired to bed for a quick nap for the sleep. The room was really a delight – all made of wood with free ventilation and big glass windows stretched in length though there could hardly be seen any views from there. After one and half hour, we got up and came out in the sun.

We started off towards Mall Road. It was little more than 12 and the massive tourist flow could be seen roaming on the street for no purpose exactly like We had no purpose other than walking. But I was wrong. The mall offered most cheerful view though cluttering was a little annoying but that was all right with us.

Police Canteen (that was not!!!)

We were getting the feel. Manu offered to have lunch at Police canteen though later we came to know that canteen was private and never belonged to any police or army for that matter. It was a small setup that offered an eating joint. We ordered the food and started nibbling. It was worth a try for me. The lunch was followed by the tea. And, we prepared to leave to make a comeback to our resthouse after a brief walk through the heart of Shimla. It was 6 in evening, when we woke up after a brief rest. In our shoes again, there we started walking to the Mall again for an evening to make memoirs.

Later some times after, Manu got upset with me for the reason untold to me and I thought he wants to be alone for sometime since I knew he was more than moody. We came back without speaking to each other almost from half the way from Mall to the rest-house.

Then, later we both ate our dinner together cooked and served by Sharma Ji himself. It was a full moon night and we prefer to take a brief walk. Next day we got up early and by 8:00 around we boarded the bus for Narkanda which was some 60kms that covered some wonderful village scenery enroute like Fagu and Matiyana.

Opposite View from Mall Road, Simla

We ate at Narkanda at the Himalayan Dhaba costing bill to be nearing Rs. 200 but satisfaction was worth dollars. We marched ahead towards the Hatu temple trek soonafter. It was snow all over the place and all along the road. I liked it in my own way and my eyes and brain got – all white.

We started moving up in the snow, smiling, thinking and what we very often do – repeatedly appraising the scene. The other side of the hill had Sun shining bright and we missed the water bottle so settled for some ice instead which never the substitute. We enjoyed every bit of it atleast this is what seemed.

Church at The Mall, Shimla
Sometimes life is suddenly bright with thousand suns keeping you up and warm. And, I put down my bag and jacket along the road side to rest a while in the magnificent sun. The same sun that in Delhi I have often criticized for shining too hard and too near to skin.

Hatu temple was some 5-6kms uphill trek in Narkanda only. We almost had finished 4 kms of the trek and the time was nearing 5 p.m.

We decided not to go up further and plan our comeback afterall the accommodation had to be arranged though we had the talk with the PWD guesthouse caretaker in the afternoon itself for the night and had our one bag there only. So we moved down. The weather started getting bad or atleast looked so and it started raining a bit. It was more than chilling, the wind piercing down the bones hard as we ordered for a chowmein and momos plate at a small eating joint which had the fantastic view with the bonfire.

NARKANDA Bus Stand (and the Bus that dropped us here)
And, I remembered the Pink Floyd song “its good to warm my bone beside the fire”!

Me, resting along the roadside in the SUN

Manu "The Moody"

Forgiveness, forgiveness even if you don't love me... Anymore

(I kept singing this Don Henley Song which Manu had loaded on his phone)

The interesting SLOPE that we covered to trek to HATU (we never reached temple though)

Manu said, “Should we stay here or move to some place down for some warm comfort” which I surely nodded to at once and we prepared to move to Kumarsain for our night halt which was down the slope some 22kms on Rampur road. The time was 6:30 p.m.
Evening At NARKANDA

We have been walking since morning, pretty tired, and longing for bed. It was a quite a day but chill and thrill never existed together for long and we took the bus to our new destination which had no scope for chill atleast and we would not be surprised also if no thrills were to be found now. No seat in the bus, but standing as an option existed with us. Good news was, we reached Kumarsain, at 8 p.m and bad news that still 1 km awaits us to be walked to get to the place of the night halt. We approached the PWD as usual but nobody responded. Next we approached Forest rest-house but room was not available. We again went to PWD, but still nobody’s there.

Almost all shops were closed and all lights were off except the small local electricity supply office in a single room with four guys smoking, discussing political stances of elections that was about sweeping off the Congress or BJP or their allies whatever from the state. We saw the light and we were there in another minute asking for PWD chap. Well, they made us seated in that small room that had the heater by the side, and continued their political discussion with passion. After some 15 minutes, we looked at each other in surprise that these guys have no attention towards us so we interrupted in between and asked again for the PWD assistance for the night. Out of the four, one was the caretaker.

NARKANDA (View towards Shimla and also seen is Himalayan Dhaba to your right hand behind the car)

We got the room, the dinner was also arranged and we took out our all-wet shoes and socks that we have been wearing for past 4-5 hours. I took out the quarter of rum (alcohol) that I had purchased to combat the chill and tiredness of the day earlier at Narkanda before taking the bus. We both were though non-drinkers but the idea of rum was worthwhile and we had one-one and off to eat. We retired soon after to our bed after I had put the heater on to dry up our socks and clothes and discussing next day’s plan.

The PWD guesthouse was fabulous and seemed to be made recently.

KUMARSAIN

We set on the track again after paying Rs. 350 bucks for the night to the caretaker who never gave the receipt against it and we were neither concerned about that.

PWD Rest House at Kumarsain

Around 9 am we reached the place where we were dropped by the bus last night, and after half an hour got another bus to comeback at Narkanda again. The idea was to go to Sarahan, on Hindustan-Tibet road.
We reached Narkanda again and found the road to Sarahan was jammed with snow all over for making any sort of transportation possible to the place. We decided to spend rest of the day walking on the same road. It was again all snow, all over and I could feel my shoes and socks getting wet already. We went up a bit and decided to warm ourselves in the streaming sun. Next we unloaded bagpacks and sit silent sipping upon the remaining rum mixed up in the water bottle. God! It was smelling hard and tasted bad and yet no impact on our senses so we figured out it was a fake…

Seen here two roads, road with bus goes to Kumarsain, then Rampur (some 47 kms)and the Upper one goes to Sarahan.
At 3 pm, we started off back to Fagu. And, another troubled time started. No room at Matiyana PWD, another bad luck at Fagu PWD – all rooms were occupied, and then at 8 pm we settled for a room which was not a delight to be in but then we were more than tired and me even mild sick too. Next day we came back to Shimla again, same place, the same rest-house and the very much same room but while coming back I had all the memories of Narkanda with me. It was certainly the place to be at when you have a reason to be in a state of equilibrium.

Now as I sit silent to memorize the words, to describe my last set of feeling while leaving Narkanda, I tried hard but could not find any of the words in store, and even if I make claims to have found few, they might not make you understand my feelings for the place... because you are not ME!

© himanshu
For more pics visit
www.flickr.com/myth_drinker

Tungnath By Chance/ Ukhimath, Garhwal

If I could escape my dull and hectic life of Delhi for forever, Ukhimath could be the place where I would want to be settled down for my new abode.

I visited Ukhimath first time in July (2006) end, and before I could do more fact-finding we had our bagpacks ready. Me and Gagan. It was a chance talk that I had with Gagan a day before wherein I mentioned to him the place and talked about a vacation together. Gagan, not sure at the time, gave his unsure ‘Yes’ with a ‘But’! I knew Gagan since my graduation days. He has always been around since then. Half textile engineer and more than full - a fabric expert - had just resigned and this was the opportunity I was trying to get upon. A puzzled Gagan called up in the afternoon to inform me the unexpected. And we were ready. Like all the times, he came late at ISBT, Delhi, than planned at 9:35 p.m. I was awaiting him for last 2 hours. Finally, he came and I gave him what I was holding back inside me.

We immediately took the bus to Rishikesh. I had ensured the eatables for us and after we chatted for some 2-3 hours about things in our lives, we stretched flat at the back seats of half empty bus. We reached Rishikesh at 4:40 am after covering some 240km of distance. It was pouring slowly. I asked one of the auto drivers for a drop at Tehri bus stand which was 2kms, but since he demanded a Rs. 10 flat for each, I refused to be cheated away and we started walking fast to reach the venue. Gagan cursed me for that!

Confluence of Alaknanda & Mandakini At Rudraprayag

At Tehri bus stand of Rishikesh, we took tea and an hour break. It was at 6:30 our bus will leave for Rudraprayag which was some 120 kms from here. We took the side seat for two, Gagan at the window side. Bus started and we smiled to each other for the trip to Hills has started.

At near around 9:20 we reached Devprayag which was enroute. I had tea again while Gagan preferred taking a look around. We discussed further about his first experience with hills. We moved again and by 11:50 reached Rudraprayag. Gagan was tired and so was me. So we made a halt in a dingy cheap room for (Rs. 200 which was Rs. 50 more a price to pay) but with all windows open it was a well lit and nice ventilated room. We changed and went out to eat.

Devprayag, Confluence of Alaknanda & Bhagirathi that forms Ganga

We spent our time by Alaknanda’s side in warm sum and glacier water in which we put our feet and then yell ‘Chill hai yaar’! We were more than happy. No family, no work, nothing to feel and nothing to share, just the plain sound of flowing Alaknanda and our offbeat communication to content ourselves.

Next I realized when we got back to our room, that I forgot the memory card for my digital camera, at home only. So we spent the evening searching for the card at every nook and corner helplessly but no success. We retired at our bed soon at 8:00 pm. Next day we got ready at 8 and planned to go back to Srinagar which was enroute some 30 kms back from the place we were at. Going back was the chance we were about to take because we were not certain whether we will get the Card there or not? Anyway, we reached Srinagar – bigger and better city life than Rudraprayag. While I waited for the shop to open, Gagan opted for a close shave. Luck was with us, though we got the card for a higher a price at Rs. 1300. We stuffed our stomach and prepared to resume our journey. We reached Rudraprayag again, got down and started locating for bus that goes to Ukhimath.

Rudraprayag, Mandakini Side (on right) while Alaknanda comes from Left

We reached Ukhimath at 2:00 pm after travelling for some 60-70 kms. The route was rough and bad patches on road appeared all over. The route was all along the river Mandakini through Tilwara and Chiliyasaur and finally the Ghat from where one road goes to Guptakashi and other goes to Ukhimath.

Initially the program was to go to Madhyamaheshwar so we were told that the same bus that leaves at 4p.m from Ukhimath market shall drop us at Uniyana some 18-20 kms further. We had the time at hand. Some 2 hours. We had ‘Dal Chawal’ which Gagan never liked, and for me it was as usual ok. After it was around 4:00 pm we enquired about the bus and got the unexpected reply. The bus actually developed some snag as we were told and would not go today further.

Ukhimath Bus Stand (and the market)

So we returned down the market to GMVN our first choice to stay. Chamola Ji, the care taker and Rawat Ji, the cook, we met there who offered the room but tariff was quite high at Rs. 600 for room. So we planned to move after a cup of tea to search for another night halt place. We got accommodation at Anushree lodge (owned by Tiwari Ji) for Rs. 200 which was quite a clean new room with new bedding. Later, that evening we went for the outing, met some children from some village nearby, clicked pics and had good time. Gagan looked over- joyous. We returned back at 7:20 to have our dinner at GMVN and from there retuned back to our room which was some 1 km far. Soft downpour was continuously signaling of bad weather to start anytime now.

The room had no light despite the connection. Some fault was being located. As we lay down I discussed with Gagan about option of visiting Madhyamaheshwar and we were ready to get up at 5:00 and leave. It was 9:10 when somebody knocked the door. It was Tiwari’s nephew asking us to join for dinner. We politely rejected. He went back smiling only to come back with Tiwari himself. Tiwari Ji, in some early 40s, looked quite strong and commanding. And politely he said; join us over for some hot milk, which I and Gagan were happy to hear about. While sipping upon the thick milk, he suggested us to visit Tungnath.

Guptakashi, as seen from Ukhimath (in the evening)

I remember of having seen the picture of Tungnath at the Survey of India map on Garhwal Hills. I was carrying the map too. Tiwari Ji was of the opinion that for Madhyamaheshwar you might not manage to get any vehicle and said moreover it would be risky trekking due to continuous downpour. Though, I completely agreed with him, I still wanted to go to Madhyamaheshwar. At the same time, I was interested in Tungnath too. Choices were always the problems for me. When we entered back our room, Gagan talked to his family and came to know about his interview schedule right after the 2 days. He wanted to do an MBA and I remember clearly having told by him about this dream as a major life goal. We observed silence. He suddenly said ‘I’ll be going back for this interview’ though he didn’t wanted to miss the trip and things to happen this way. It was a bad night after a full bright day. And the thunderstorm started.

It rained all night. I woke up at 5:10 out of the shiver I guess. I decided to put on my windcheater. It was still dark outside. I thought to open up the door for some fresh air and to observe the things around. I came out and saw the clouds all over and over them the snow-clad mountains. I shouted ‘Gagan’!

Early Morning View of Kedar Parvat whose foothill has the temple of Kedarnath from Ukhimath

Tiwari was up too and made me some tea. We sipped upon looking at massive clear mountains. Tiwari and the rain in the background broke the silence. He said ‘Go see Tungnath and you’ll not be disappointed’. Gagan was out too. He was all lost in the scene more than both of us. We got ready and by 6:15 were ready to approach Tungnath. Gagan planned to complete the trip and sacrificed his interest for a while. We came to the conclusion of why not try calling the college and let them know that you are out so if possibly the interview could be re-fixed after 3-4 days. Gagan made the call and succeeded. We were more than celebrating.

Tiwari asked the milkman to drop us at Chopta, some 20kms from this place. We 3 in the jeep discussing about the weather, temple and problems we could face if we do not plan return soon. At Chopta, we were almost alone. Among the mild rain, we prepared to trek. The time was 8:30. We started finding our way on the slippery surface amidst the vast jungle. The trek was some 3.5kms straight uphill to the temple of Lord Shiva called Tungnath, which believed to have received the arms of Shiva when He disintegrated himself. According to Mythology, Pandavas prayed to Shiva for forgiveness for having killed their kins and kiths which Shiva considered a sin not worth forgiving. In an effort to find Shiva, The Pandavas searched entire Himalaya and then at Guptkashi located Him. Shiva disintergated himself into pieces and told Pandavas to worship his these piece forms. These five pieces of Shiva forms 'Panch-Kedar' or 'KedarKhand'. Tungnath was the place that received Shiva's arms. And, we now have started the trek ...

Chopta

The place was full of vast grasslands, meadows and a serpent trail over which we were climbing up. We reached temple at 11:00, performed the ritual and started to click the pictures from various places surveying things. The weather by now was getting really bad and clouds all over the temple and we planned comeback. The temple made of huge stones was said to be some 5,000 years old, built by Pandavas and restructured by Shankracharya. The temple had all the 5 deities resting. These 5 were the forms of Shiva representing panch-kedar, in between was – Tungnath form.

Trek to Tungnath Temple

I remember while coming back Gagan and I had tea and took biscuits at a hut shop with an old lady and a kid. Gagan threw packs of biscuits at the crows who gathered all around him. It was the good gesture. He looked at ease enjoying nature to the fullest and with a breath deep into his lungs... he said, This is Real.

Temple of Tungnath

And, I prayed to Bhagwan Tungnath, make us come for once more… soon!

© himanshu

for more pics visit

www.flickr.com/myth_drinker

Also check Tungnath By Luck/ Ukhimath Re-visited

P.S I have been receiving mails about what happened to Gagan's interview next. Here is the answer... Gagan right after the trip appeared for the interview, got through it and now pursuing his MBA and currently undergoing Summer Training with a textile firm in Indonesia.

The Lake District/Nainital

Nainital, better known as the lake district of Uttarakhand, has changed a lot. In my recent (May, 2008) visit to the place I experienced slight discomfort. It also happens to be the visitor’s season so I was not quite amazed at the massive rush that both Mall road, and I witnessed, where tourist were busy purchasing souvenir like candles and articles made of painted pine woods.It was around 8 in night when we reached the place, dead tired. The reason being we three had planned for Bhimtal first which we reached around 9 in the morning. We visited some uncle of a friend along who took us to show a piece of land which I was suppose to see for myself. But my mind was more occupied with the beauty of things. The vast water of the lake shining in the sun and mild wind blowing through – I knew I was there and so was the feeling that had always loved the observations from my eyes.

Bhimtal

Quickly we sipped up the tea served by the old man and then he took us to the field to show the area around. My mind was still by the lake imagining the sun and laziness that I was fighting with which usually one feels when the sun warms the cold bones making you sleepy. I suddenly remember one of my trips last year December to Narkanda, where I lay myself down along the roadside in the Jungle on way to the Hatu temple in the warm bright sun. Somebody said, should be go now? And, I nodded. We were starving after a night long journey and need to fill-up. Its almost 11 and we trio had toasts with piping hot tea but I didn’t liked it. I still had the taste of the tea old man served. Next we were supposed to see two young men who had another piece of land to show me. We were three and they were two on their bikes – and we adjusted and left. We went through rough road straight up on the middle of the hill which was the near to Sattal. Already a colonizer were building up the residential property there and that had made me upset. The elder guy off the two, seeing me down, remarked, the developer was interested in this piece of land but the man who owns it wants to give it to anyone but not to the developer. He further went on, “developer ke anne se yeh area chamak raha hai, zammen yahan milti hi kahan hai”!

I disqualified both – the guys’ notion and the land - on the premise that the place was locked in the valley, offers no view and too down with no road connectivity. Soon after we left for Naukuchiyatal - the lake with nine corners.

Naukuchiyatal

Naukuchiyatal, I have been here before in last August when it was pleasant but now it was unusually warm. We took a walk around after we got down from jeep that carried us from Bhimtal to the place. It is some 10 kms. After sometimes we entered into a small restaurant for lunch. The time about 2:30 p.m. We didn’t stroll much and at 3 started for Nainital. After sometimes a half wrecked bus came and we got into it for reaching Bhowali. This is the place from where Nainital is just 10 kms. 3:40 we got down at Bhowali and started arguing – the other two against me. Ok, the reason – I was insisting upon visiting Ghorakhal famous for Golu Temple, which happens to be some 3 kms from the place we were standing at with our bag-packs, quite tired. Its hard to walk without sleeping a day before but I had the sense of delightment being one with the nature. So the delightment won and I managed to make them walk another 3 km of the day, but actually 6 which was counting another 3km for coming back.

Ghorakhal (Seen here is Bhimtal from Ghorakhal)

Golu’s temple was the delight of the day. I was the first time visitor. The serenity of bells and purity of incense sticks made up for our lethargy. We spent some 1 hour at the temple – all lost in ourselves and charged with positiveness of faith and spirituality. And Ashish yelled, lets start now or we will be late. I nodded again. Sanjeev, who was the first timer on hills, was more than happy to see the places we went but then was tired with the walking. But soon he understood that walking is quite regular on hills.

Golu Devta temple at Ghorakhal (the deity is known for his jugdement and will power and is said to be the incarnation of Shiva)

We were back to Bhowali now but enroute we had tea and biscuits quickly. Then again we had quick sip of tea and alloo ki launje – a sweetmeat made of smashed potatoes, famous in the region. It was almost dark at 6:30 when the local bus written Nainital on the windscreen passed across us. Ashish was first among the rush who got into the bus and reserved a bench for us. We reached Nainital at 7:45 p.m or so.

Returned Back to Bhowali (and to Nainital)

The first chill of air struck me at once and I breathed hard to fill the air into my lungs. Nainital was completely dipped into the flashing neon lights of hotels, and shops along the lake’s shore. We started walking towards the ‘all lit up’ Mall road amidst the motley crowd. Soon after Ashish interrupted us and said it seemed very crowded today lets take the other route. We both looked at him and nodded in the agreement. There we were all three of us walking again parallel to the Mall road separated by the lake and all along it shore. It was better walking down in the cool evening lights not much lit though. We passed one temple first and then the famous Naina Devi temple and offered our apology for not getting inside since we were dead tired and more than sleepy. I wonder if I should ask these guys to sit somewhere to the lake’s shore for a while and then resume but I could not dare so. Sanjeev was the most tired in us and reason seemed so obvious.

Enroute China/Naini Peak, Nainital

We located a restaurant nearby after a 2 km long walks, pointed by Sanjeev, and were served quite fine too. Paid the bill and we begin for Ashish’s place – our home for the night. It was little up than 9:30 and we were longing for bed. Ashish made us walk uphill some 1 km after the dinner which we covered dramatically. Finally we were at his place. His house was built of logs from inside which looked like Britisher’s type with high ceiling and well ventilated and we retired to bed after a brief talk.
Next morning I woke up early like I do on most trips. I took a long hot water bath. Sanjeev preferred handwash and Ashish took a very short one. I guess water shortage was the reason. And we left the place after tea and biscuits. I wonder with almost 7 lakes in and around Nainital – water crisis still prevails. I had no answers but perhaps overflowing population and colonizers were the substance behind. We started to walk upwards towards the Snowview, the place from where Himalayan peaks would be visible through naked eye, and which was some 1.5 kms more. Before reaching up the top Sanjeev ate maggi and I took tea. Ashish was away to make a call which took his almost 20 minutes. We resumed again and in another half an hour we were there. The place was crowded and I saw lots of kids around. They came through ropeway from down right upto the place.
Sanjeev cried foul! But our purpose was not the ropeway ride but to walk and enjoy the nature.

Nainital from China/Naini Peak (the weather was started to get dark and rainy)

Disappointed from the place, I suggested them to go to Naina peak (or China peak, which perhaps is the highest of the all the peaks) and after a brief protest from the other two I again proved my iron. So we marched straight towards the destination. All along the jungle trek of some 4 kms, these two guys were busy chatting up on several matters. Sanjeev was the one big chatterbox but made us both interested in his talks. Sometimes he would talk philosophically and other times sheer crap. I reacted normal and laughed away on their discussions about their love and life and occupied myself with the camera. Ashish and Sanjeev have by large got themselves gel well. We reached the peak at 11 and took a water bottle that costs Rs. 20 (priced Rs. 12) from the only canteen which was small and lousy. The place was really the heaven but I was disappointed with Chips packets spread here and there, and asked myself – hills are supposed to be polybags free so why these stuffs too cannot be banned. We finally were at the place from where the complete Nainital panorama could be seen. We ate buns and butter there sitting for more than some 45 minutes, clicked pics and visualized our point of view.
While returning back, it started raining. I was one behind walking slowly wondering about the water crisis of the lake district and those water harvesting projects that government claimed to have started. It was more unpleasant the feeling than to see the Nainital getting overcrowded.

© himanshu
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